expired Posted by tunabreath • Dec 2, 2021
Dec 2, 2021 10:06 AM
Item 1 of 4
Item 1 of 4
expired Posted by tunabreath • Dec 2, 2021
Dec 2, 2021 10:06 AM
20-Pack GE LED Linear 15W EQ 48" Cool White Type A Tube Light Bulb
+ Free Store Pickup$30
$50
40% offLowe's
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Most of these new LED bulbs are type A&B, which work with and without a ballast. I prefer to remove the ballast altogether, which makes it more simple, reliable, and energy efficient than these bulbs. That being said, if you don't want to do any wiring, and your ballasts are still good, these are easy to just plug in and go.
The LEDs were well packed, no broken bulbs or bent end pins in either box.
They didn't make the old ballasts buzz or have any problems with flickering.
At 1800 lumen, I worried that they would be dimmer than the old t8 bulbs that claimed to be 2500 lumen
But between blowing out decades of dust from the diffusers and the zillion hours on the old T8s, they appear to be equally bright.
Here is a pic to show you that the LED bulbs look like daylight and the old t8 look like antiques:
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If your current bulbs are 1.5" diameter (T12 bulbs, 34W or 40W), then these may not work depending on the ballast that runs them. If you have the T12 bulbs in your fixture, you're likely going to want to just replace the whole fixture.
Also, I agree with Odie above -- if you have the know-how and don't care about getting these cheap bulbs, then direct wire is the way to go. If a bulb goes out, you know what the problem is and you replace it. When a ballast is involved, the ballast could be the issue, and it's making things less efficient. I've been replacing lights at my work, and I only do direct wire. There are kits that make it very easy -- pre-wired sets of "tombstones" that replace one end of the fixture, and just insert the white/black wires into it.
IMHO 5000 looks like crap unless it's exceptionally bright (daylight at sea level). 4000 should be a little bluer than high temperature halogen lamps (~3500K, typically).
The green or pink cast I was referring to was the 80 CRI, which is barely passable.
If your current bulbs are 1.5" diameter (T12 bulbs, 34W or 40W), then these may not work depending on the ballast that runs them. If you have the T12 bulbs in your fixture, you're likely going to want to just replace the whole fixture.
Also, I agree with Odie above -- if you have the know-how and don't care about getting these cheap bulbs, then direct wire is the way to go. If a bulb goes out, you know what the problem is and you replace it. When a ballast is involved, the ballast could be the issue, and it's making things less efficient. I've been replacing lights at my work, and I only do direct wire. There are kits that make it very easy -- pre-wired sets of "tombstones" that replace one end of the fixture, and just insert the white/black wires into it.
The LEDs were well packed, no broken bulbs or bent end pins in either box.
They didn't make the old ballasts buzz or have any problems with flickering.
At 1800 lumen, I worried that they would be dimmer than the old t8 bulbs that claimed to be 2500 lumen
But between blowing out decades of dust from the diffusers and the zillion hours on the old T8s, they appear to be equally bright.
Here is a pic to show you that the LED bulbs look like daylight and the old t8 look like antiques:
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I'd get this deal to retrofit fixtures in the horse barn, but a lot of those are magnetic ballasts driving T-12 bulbs. Not sure if these will work in those fixtures.
You can just reuse the old tombstones, or get these if you want plug and play:
https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-2...B072QY1M89
Got home and replaced all the T12's with T8's. NONE of them worked. Not 2, or 4, or 6 or all 8 of them. Went to a different hardware store and bought a box of T12's. Put them in and they worked fine.
Story summary is -- T8 is not always interchangeable with T12. At least not in my fixtures.
tried replacing my t8 with the costco led t8 but one worked and 1 didn't. readjusted the bulb then the other side did not work.
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