Bora 100” WTX Ruled Clamp Edge Saw Guide at Amazon $62.78
$62.78
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Bora 100" WTX Ruled Clamp Edge Saw Guide for Woodworking, Contractors, Carpenters and DIY, Guide for Circular Saws, 100 Inch Cutting Length, Model# 545100
Model: Bora 100” WTX Ruled Clamp Edge Saw Guide for Woodworking, Contractors, Carpenters and DIY, Guide for Circular Saws, 100 Inch Cutting Length, 545100
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Sort: Lowest to Highest | Last Updated 5/21/2024, 12:43 AM
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Perhaps someone should have read the reviews before posting this.
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This is where Harbor Freight is as good or better, but I prefer a piece of U shaped (1" x 3" or 4" x 1") shaped straight aluminum with two clamps, or a decent straight level with two clamps that is multi-usage. And make sure whatever fits tight to board being cut, or the shoe of many saws will go under. Or, just mark and cut free hand. The other option is an expensive Track saw.
Snap a chalk line and cut. It's not that difficult.
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For cabinetry type work, I have never seen anyone that good with free handing a circular saw or router and why table saws and router tables are widely used. If just rough sawing sheeting, then sure.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank vha23
04-07-2022 at 07:48 PM.
Make a jig with some scraps and you never have to worry about measuring X inches away from your cutting line. Put the jig directly on the line you want to cut and go.
Make a jig with some scraps and you never have to worry about measuring X inches away from your cutting line. Put the jig directly on the line you want to cut and go.
That's fine if you do not require precision cuts. But for myself, 1/32" off can be a costly mistake. And when using a wood guide, it can cause blade deflection (which is why track saws use rubber strips.)
So if you do use a wood one look at cutting it a bit proud, and add a piece of that junky silicone tape they make for doors to the bottom. Now you're cut line will be more accurate and your blade won't rub.
But remember... it's still wood. So it will change with weather, where aluminum will not. (Unless maybe the garbage grade aluminum used by companies like BORA, and Kreg. )
Snap a chalk line and cut. It's not that difficult.
Even a cheap circular saw with a good blade can be used for finish work, cabinetry, and furniture building, as long as the shoe is straight and the blade parallel. But not with a chalk line.
Make a jig with some scraps and you never have to worry about measuring X inches away from your cutting line. Put the jig directly on the line you want to cut and go. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qIeIZdrbz-Y
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Youtube has been a wonderful resource for many applications and ideas.
Because each layer's wood grain is in opposite direction (or 45 degrees) to each other, plywood has been a rather stable material that resists expansion and contraction.
That's fine if you do not require precision cuts. But for myself, 1/32" off can be a costly mistake. And when using a wood guide, it can cause blade deflection (which is why track saws use rubber strips.)
So if you do use a wood one look at cutting it a bit proud, and add a piece of that junky silicone tape they make for doors to the bottom. Now you're cut line will be more accurate and your blade won't rub.
But remember... it's still wood. So it will change with weather, where aluminum will not. (Unless maybe the garbage grade aluminum used by companies like BORA, and Kreg. )
you are using a circular saw for high precision cuts?
If your level is 100" long, low enough profile to not interfere too much with your circular saw motor, has a built in clamp, with lots of available accessories, that would be a great alternative.
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Perhaps someone should have read the reviews before posting this.
===============
This is where Harbor Freight is as good or better, but I prefer a piece of U shaped (1" x 3" or 4" x 1") shaped straight aluminum with two clamps, or a decent straight level with two clamps that is multi-usage. And make sure whatever fits tight to board being cut, or the shoe of many saws will go under. Or, just mark and cut free hand. The other option is an expensive Track saw.
For cabinetry type work, I have never seen anyone that good with free handing a circular saw or router and why table saws and router tables are widely used. If just rough sawing sheeting, then sure.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank vha23
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qIeIZdr
You must be a Framer in Florida??
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qIeIZdr
That's fine if you do not require precision cuts. But for myself, 1/32" off can be a costly mistake. And when using a wood guide, it can cause blade deflection (which is why track saws use rubber strips.)
So if you do use a wood one look at cutting it a bit proud, and add a piece of that junky silicone tape they make for doors to the bottom. Now you're cut line will be more accurate and your blade won't rub.
But remember... it's still wood. So it will change with weather, where aluminum will not. (Unless maybe the garbage grade aluminum used by companies like BORA, and Kreg. )
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qIeIZdr
Youtube has been a wonderful resource for many applications and ideas.
Because each layer's wood grain is in opposite direction (or 45 degrees) to each other, plywood has been a rather stable material that resists expansion and contraction.
So if you do use a wood one look at cutting it a bit proud, and add a piece of that junky silicone tape they make for doors to the bottom. Now you're cut line will be more accurate and your blade won't rub.
But remember... it's still wood. So it will change with weather, where aluminum will not. (Unless maybe the garbage grade aluminum used by companies like BORA, and Kreg. )
why not use a table saw