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RYOBI Wood Door Trimmer Drill Attachment Expired
$18
$29.97
+ Free Shipping
Home Depot has RYOBI Wood Door Trimmer Drill Attachment (A99DT01) on sale for $17.97. Shipping is free or select free ship-to-store pickup where available.
Thanks to community member tunabreath for sharing this deal.
Note, availability for store pickup may vary by location.
Product Features:
Thanks to community member tunabreath for sharing this deal.
Note, availability for store pickup may vary by location.
Product Features:
- Quick and easy solution for sticking doors
- Door removal not necessary with this tool
- Attaches to any standard drill for convenient use
- Works on 1-3/4 in. & 1-3/8 in. size doors
- Removes up to 1/32 in. per pass
- No need for bulky sanders and planers
Original Post
Written by
Edited May 30, 2022
at 09:18 AM
Home Depot has RYOBI Door trimmer drill attachment for $17.97. Shipping is free.
https://www.homedepot.c
https://www.homedepot.c
- Quick and easy solution for sticking doors
- Door removal not necessary with this tool
- Attaches to any standard drill for convenient use
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Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
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I don't know how many times I've seen the skins start to split from their frame because someone used a jamb saw on them without any clamps.
As for this tool, it's a bad bandaid for the real problem, which is poor framing.
In a lot of situations, just shimming the top or bottom hinge will fix the reveal without the need for minor undercuts.
probably less messy, too
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Most people don't realize how cheaply made 99% of the doors in their house are and just assume busting through a door in a movie is an act of sheer strength.
It's also pretty hilarious to see people spend $1000+ on a set of doors and then cheap out on the frame, only for it to have a bad reveal after winter.
Off the shelf interior doors are mostly cardboard innards holding up a compressed wood skin with a couple inches of composite for a frame. Solid commercial doors are just compressed wood throughout.
It's not until you get into the $500 price point that you actually start to get some real wood in your solid wood door.
But I think at that point, you'd hire someone to put it in who actually carries around a carpenter's square.
What kind of door can you rasp that won't end up looking like a dog chewed it up?
Down vote earned!
Fun fact: They're the same thing! Elmer's even sells a "wood glue" that's just craft glue in an adult sized bottle.
The only decent wood glues are the offshoots. Avoid Titebond, though.
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Down vote earned!
When I had to do it for screw holes in my original, 1930s, heavily-grained oak door that I could never hope to be able to afford to replace with anything that would match up, I used break-to-fit toothpicks and wood filler. No more problems with the surface-mount jimmy-proof lock loosening itself after that.
What is your preferred overlay?
Use a circular saw with a guide.
That is what we use freehand if the bottom needs cut off after carpet or flooring. Tape both sides to minimize splintering and can see the pencil mark better on darker doors. The saw blade is coming up, so unless using the junkiest blade available, the side opposite of the saw will have no splinters, but for like a bathroom door that you see both sides, the tape and correct blade helps a lot. Have a little wood glue around for the occasional glitch.
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For the latch side and after you have checked to make sure hinges are seated and tight, close the door and run a pencil on door up the door stop to identify the tight spot(s). Remove door, sand, block plane, or electric plane for clearance and produce same line of gap when closed. If the widest gap is say, 3/32", you want the gap to be the same for at least that side or top. For a beginner, a block plane or sander. When you come off the edge with an electric planer, you can't let it drop, or you will leave/have a cup in the door... it takes a little practice on a scrap 2x4 or whatever.
If you don't want to do that, it is possible that you can shim one side the of the hinge to throw the door further away (inside of hinge), or closer (outside of hinge) to the latch side. Some narrow 1/16" plastic shims, or even a piece of metal flashing, etc., the height of the hinge works well, but you will have to hold in place with something while re-anchoring hinge... even your chewing gum. I drill a hole where a hinge screw goes and put a screw through to hold in place, but they sometimes fall off.
For the OP, there is no reaching the bottom of a hanging door, as the gimmicky tool gets in the way. Besides, I would rather make the mess outside and plane to the mark.
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