18" and 20" OOS. Only 16" showing available as of 9:48am Pacific.
Assembly video: until someone provides an assembly video on this exact bike, this is the closest I could find on a similar bike: https://youtu.be/8Ez3a6aoL8c
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expiredAlexG30 posted Jun 30, 2022 2:26 PM
Framed Ultimate Terrain Mountain Bike (Black)
$125
$600
79% off
+ Free Shippingat Camping World
Top Comments
https://www.evanscycles
Bar [amazon.com]
Grips [amazon.com]
Pedals [amazon.com]
Be sure to watch YT for installations. Common installation mistakes for above items include over-tightening and tightening wrong direction.
How to Adjust a Front Derailleur [youtu.be]
How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur [youtu.be]
One main reason MTB/gravel riders upgrade to 1x (one by) drivetrain is to simplify the derailleur adjustments. This bike can be upgraded to 1x later, but would require upgrading the rear hub/wheel. There's nothing wrong with 3x drivetrain on this bike. In my opinion, 1x is more of a quality-of-life upgrade, others might tell you 1x also saves weight.
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627 Comments
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Still waiting for tracking number from CampingWorld.
Update: Just receive a tracking number this morning and ship from state of Indiana to NE (on July 5th).
That is the style you need. It clamps at a different location
lol, Okay
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In your specific case, sounds like you might have bought a size too big, pushing not only your standover height over the limit, but also your reach to the bars. Compound that with this bike's XC (cross country) geometry which pushes the reach even further. If I were you, I would shorten that stem as short as possible and get a bar with a generous rise and backsweep so you wouldn't feel so stretched. Both can be had for total ~$30 on Amazon and easy to install, well worth the money for your long-term comfort.
It looks very similar to the one the other guy recommended. I would install it on the chainstay on the non-drive side (side where the disc brake is), but watch that hydraulic brake line. You should have plenty of room to install it in between where the brake line splits from the chainstay, and the mount for the disc brake calipers. DO NOT clamp the brake hose inside the kickstand mount!
In your specific case, sounds like you might have bought a size too big, pushing not only your standover height over the limit, but also your reach to the bars. Compound that with this bike's XC (cross country) geometry which pushes the reach even further. If I were you, I would shorten that stem as short as possible and get a bar with a generous rise and backsweep so you wouldn't feel so stretched. Both can be had for total ~$30 on Amazon and easy to install, well worth the money for your long-term comfort.
For example, I'm 5'8.5" which is ~174cm. Multiply that by 4.4 to get 765.6. This means I should not run more than 765mm wide bars. I usually run 720mm bars so well within health safety limits.
For my daughter who's 5'3", I used common sense a while back to let her run 680mm bars. I just figured shorter person should run narrower bar. I'm glad I did as her maximum based on this calculation would be 705mm.
Thought I share this enlightening video, learn something new everyday: https://youtu.be/xMXlKED32uo
I welcome any counterpoints with details to back it up.
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On this bike, to do a 1x conversion like above, you would need to upgrade the rear to freehub, and upgrade the crankset as the 3 chainrings on the stock crankset are riveted together. On a tight budget and knowing where to shop, you could get a rear freehub wheel, 1x10 cassette, hollow crankset, narrow/wide chainring, non-clutched rear derailleur, shifter and chain all for < $250 brand new. Of course you would need all the right tools for this job if you plan on DIY.
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