18" and 20" OOS. Only 16" showing available as of 9:48am Pacific.
Assembly video: until someone provides an assembly video on this exact bike, this is the closest I could find on a similar bike: https://youtu.be/8Ez3a6aoL8c
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expiredAlexG30 posted Jun 30, 2022 2:26 PM
Framed Ultimate Terrain Mountain Bike (Black)
$125
$600
79% off
+ Free Shippingat Camping World
Top Comments
https://www.evanscycles
Bar [amazon.com]
Grips [amazon.com]
Pedals [amazon.com]
Be sure to watch YT for installations. Common installation mistakes for above items include over-tightening and tightening wrong direction.
​How to Adjust a Front Derailleur [youtu.be]
How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur [youtu.be]
One main reason MTB/gravel riders upgrade to 1x (one by) drivetrain is to simplify the derailleur adjustments. This bike can be upgraded to 1x later, but would require upgrading the rear hub/wheel. There's nothing wrong with 3x drivetrain on this bike. In my opinion, 1x is more of a quality-of-life upgrade, others might tell you 1x also saves weight.
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627 Comments
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If you are handy and can find a fault as you go this would be like a nice bike which you add stuff on as it becomes more obvious it needs upgrading. All of this coming from a Bianchi C2C rider with a lot of expectations and a bit of hard earned experience as a road cyclist.
No updates for me either
Otherwise there's really not much adjustment nor maintenance needed on hydraulic brake systems. Many levers let's you adjust the reach with a small allen screw. My brake levers are setup within easy reach and pull by one index finger on both sides. Here's a great video on your whole cockpit setup by a great guy (Doddy). The brake lever setup starts around 6:10 mark but the rest of video has great info: https://youtu.be/-6hRIEICiGg. Keep in mind folks over the pond have their brake levers opposite from us -- right lever front brake, left lever rear brake. Ours is right rear, left front. Doddy calls that out in most of his videos concerning brakes. But otherwise, rest of the bike setup are the same on either side of the pond.
Also, try to avoid disconnecting the hydraulic hoses as much as possible. There are olives near the ends of the hoses. Each time you loosen and tighten the ends, that olive gets crushed a little to help make seals. Do that too many times and it won't make a good seal and air gets inside. The recommendation is to replace the barb and olive when you service the brakes, which means cutting the brake hose shorter each time since you really can't remove the barb once inserted into the hose.
based on a few videos, it seems i only need the bucket thing and the plunger and i can add fluid at the top near the lever, so i ordered the cheapest, best rated brake fluid kit that had those 2 things and some liquid and it should be here tomorrow.
I missed one of the plastic pieces to remove and wasted 15 minutes.
Now I can't get one of the brake pedals to screw in at all... Not sure what to do now.
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I missed one of the plastic pieces to remove and wasted 15 minutes.
Now I can't get one of the brake pedals to screw in at all... Not sure what to do now.
If you're just talking about the PEDAL itself (that thing attached to the crank arm and propelled by your feet), the LEFT one is reverse threaded.
I missed one of the plastic pieces to remove and wasted 15 minutes.
Now I can't get one of the brake pedals to screw in at all... Not sure what to do now.
based on a few videos, it seems i only need the bucket thing and the plunger and i can add fluid at the top near the lever, so i ordered the cheapest, best rated brake fluid kit that had those 2 things and some liquid and it should be here tomorrow.
EDIT: And this is the mineral oil I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E4MH84/ . Would probably last you a lifetime for 1 bike. Maybe get a smaller bottle for now. If you buy the one I linked, currently 1 of the sellers has it for $26, but need to wait for delivery.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...UTF8&
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