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Just like 50% of current reviewers who've had previous fake reviews deleted:
https://reviewmeta.com/amazon/B0B11T8G84
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It's ok as much as they give it will take a while to blow through them. I wish instead of tons of similar fuses they made kit with different socket fit instead. I've seen cars that uses multiple types in one car (inside and under the hood fit was different).
Here's example for $9 of what I think would be more useful instead of shilling for someone who pays you for it😏: 272pcs Standard & Mini & Low Profile Mini Car Boat Truck SUV Automotive Replacement Fuses https://a.co/d/hcl5cYr
2004 F-150 where the battery constantly dies. Replaced it, but new battery dies after a day or 2 of jump starting it. When it is jumped and running, the head unit doesn't work. So either that's draining the battery for some reason or alternator isn't charging battery?
this was my last build- but I put 25k into stock market options and lost it, so I sold my car. its alright. got new toys to play with
https://www.mustang6g.c
in my experience, people go through fuses due to bad installs of things, never a factory item going bad.
Not from this specific seller or amazon link but be seriously skeptical of these super cheap kits. I had a fuse blow and then refuse itself back together from a similarly cheap ebay fuse kit.
https://photos.app.urlh
Why wouldn't the fuse just blow again if it refused itself? If the short or high load still existed?
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272pcs - Car Blade Fuses Assortment Kit, $8.99
Automotive Fuses - Standard & Mini & Low Profile Mini (2A/ 5A/ 10A/ 15A/ 20A/ 25A/ 30A/ 35A), Car Boat Truck SUV Automotive Replacement Fuses https://a.co/d/7xXtWrs
This is a much better deal since it includes the low profile mini fuses as well
If you are troubleshooting and do not have ability to temporarily rig up a reset-able OCPD, temporary use of cheap, questionable quality fuses might be ok with monitoring. Blowing a bunch of "good" brand name maxi blade fuses while troubleshooting can be a bit expensive.
Maybe it's worth getting resettable ones then if that's the situation.
2004 F-150 where the battery constantly dies. Replaced it, but new battery dies after a day or 2 of jump starting it. When it is jumped and running, the head unit doesn't work. So either that's draining the battery for some reason or alternator isn't charging battery?
I think there's strong chance your head unit has some kind of indirect short to ground. It could be not enough to trip the fuse but plenty to suck out the juice out of the battery. It's pretty simple to test with multimeter and there's videos available on tube about how to check which line is causing the short. In your case easiest would be to take out the fuse for that line and see if that makes the difference. Shorts consume much more power than stand by electronic parts so there are more than few ways to find out if you have one for sure and then pin point exact part/line causing it.
Generally fuses blow with direct short while smaller current leaks don't trip them because they don't reach max current threshold.
Generally fuses blow with direct short while smaller current leaks don't trip them because they don't reach max current threshold.
Awesome thanks! Really do appreciate the reply. I'll check out YouTube for this too.
When you say "easiest would be to take out the fuse for that line" you're meaning the fuse to the head unit and whatever else it affects right? Then trickle charge the battery up and if battery doesn't die within a few days then I probably need to replace head unit that's causing the indirect short?
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2004 F-150 where the battery constantly dies. Replaced it, but new battery dies after a day or 2 of jump starting it. When it is jumped and running, the head unit doesn't work. So either that's draining the battery for some reason or alternator isn't charging battery?
bad deal. bad f-150. all bad. bad bad bad