-Wiznaz (mod)
As of Feb 3, IRS the Treasury Department just fixed the EV tax credit's Tesla Model Y problem and the cap is $80k for ALL models now.
Ordered Date and App Time; City/State; Model; Delivery Date
01/13/2023; 7pm CST, Dallas, TX; MY, Est Jan 22nd to Feb 5th
01/13/2023; Ohio; M3, Est Mid Feb to March
01/15/2023; Oahu, Hawaii; MY; February 19 - March 26
01/14/2023; 9pm; Los Angeles, CA; MY (Blue); February 4 - March 4 (edit// now February 14 - March 21 as of 1/24/23) (edit2// February 8 - February 22 as of 1/30/23) (edit3// VIN assigned [PA066*]; February 15 - February 24 as of 2/4/23)
01/13/2023; 11:29am EDT; Boston/MA; MY White/Black wheels; January 19 - came with defect and went promptly to body shop without picking up
01/13/2023: 12pm PT, Los Angeles, CA; MY (white) no options; Jan 26 - Feb 26, then 10 days later got VIN, then three days later scheduled delivery for Feb 5.
Who Qualifies
You may qualify for a credit up to $7,500 under Internal Revenue Code Section 30D if you buy a new, qualified plug-in EV or fuel cell electric vehicle (FCV). The Inflation Reduction Act of 2022 changed the rules for this credit for vehicles purchased from 2023 to 2032.
The credit is available to individuals and their businesses.
To qualify, you must:
Buy it for your own use, not for resale
Use it primarily in the U.S.
In addition, your modified adjusted gross income (AGI) may not exceed:
$300,000 for married couples filing jointly
$225,000 for heads of households
$150,000 for all other filers
You can use your modified AGI from the year you take delivery of the vehicle or the year before, whichever is less. If your modified AGI is below the threshold in 1 of the two years, you can claim the credit.
The credit is nonrefundable, so you can't get back more on the credit than you owe in taxes. You can't apply any excess credit to future tax years.
https://www.irs.gov/credits-deduc...quireme
The sale qualifies only if:
You buy the vehicle new
The seller reports required information to you at the time of sale and to the IRS.
Sellers are required to report your name and taxpayer identification number to the IRS for you to be eligible to claim the credit.
The new law requires the POS (Dealer or manufacturer) to report a bunch of information on the buyer to the IRS.
Such as:
Seller/Dealer name and taxpayer ID number
Buyer's name and taxpayer ID number
Maximum credit allowable under IRC 30D for new vehicles or IRC 25E for previously owned vehicles
Vehicle identification number (VIN), unless the vehicle is not assigned one
Battery capacity
Date of sale
Sale price
For new vehicles, verification that the buyer is the original user
CALIFORNIA
Now the Model 3 and Y do qualify for CVRP rebate up to $4,500 ($2,000 + $2,500 income eligible ) up to $7,500 after February 2023.
https://cleanvehiclereb
Summary of February 28, 2023 updates:
……
In addition to the standard CVRP rebate, consumers with household income less than or equal to 400 percent of the federal poverty level are eligible for an increased rebate amount of $5,500 (previously $2,500) for BEVs and PHEVs, and $3,000 (previously $2,500) for FCEVs. This amounts to:
……….$7,500 for battery-electric vehicles (previously $4,500)
https://cleanvehiclereb
B Thank you for your email. Vehicle manufacturers must apply for Clean Vehicle Rebate Project (CVRP) eligibility with the California Air Resources Board (CARB) and meet a number of program requirements. If all program requirements are met, the vehicle is added to the list of eligible vehicles on our website. At this time, Tesla has not applied.
Top Comments
Excluding taxes and fees, I paid $63,940. It's now $59,630, which is $4,310 less, and it is eligible for the $7,500 tax credit. That means if I didn't buy it in December and bought it today, I would have saved $11,810 + sales tax, so a bit over $12,000 in savings I missed. (I got 10,000 Supercharger miles, which is worth somewhere between $500 and $1,000.) With taxes and fees, I paid $71,578.55 in total.
For those who do order, I recommend this Tesla Prep guide [glideapp.io] to check for build quality issues on delivery day.
I hope this helps,
Tofu Vic
The disclosure, which was first reported by Electrek, comes as the company faces scrutiny over the safety and capabilities of its standard advanced driver assistance system known as Autopilot and the $15,000 optional upgraded product branded as "Full Self-Driving." Tesla FSD beta software offers some automated driving features but is not a self-driving system.
The luxury EV-maker has long claimed it could reach full autonomy through a "vision only" approach that shuns other sensors like lidar and radar in favor of cameras and a deep neural network that quickly processes a vehicle's surroundings and responds in real time. Tesla CEO Elon Musk previously promised to "solve" full self-driving by the end of this year (he's also promised Tesla would get there every year for roughly nine years now). He has recently admitted the problem will take longer to solve.
And perhaps, as every other autonomous vehicle technologist says, it's not actually achievable yet through cameras alone.
The company began removing radar from its vehicles last May. In October, Tesla removed its 12 ultrasonic sensors from Model 3 and Model Y vehicles built for North America, Europe, the Middle East and Taiwan. Ultrasonic sensors measure distance via ultrasonic waves and are used as proximity sensors to support anti-collision safety systems, particularly in parking use cases.
Now it appears radar is back. It's not yet clear which models will get the new radar. The type of radar Tesla intends to market next year is of a frequency that's allocated by the FCC for ADAS use cases, according to Ram Machness, chief business officer at Arbe Robotics, which produces ultra-high-resolution 4D imaging radar.
Tesla had originally filed with the FCC to use the new radar — which is described in filings as "76-77 GHz Automotive Radar" — in its vehicles back in June.
"From the frequency of operation (76-77GHz) as well as the mechanical design of the sensor from Tesla's FCC filing, it appears that this radar would be utilized in ADAS applications," Steven Hong, VP and general manager of radar technology at semiconductor company Ambarella, told TechCrunch.
He noted that while the performance of this "edge" radar sensor will be limited, it's a positive development that Tesla is looking to add radar to its perception stack for safety-critical, robust performance.
Earlier this year, the FCC had granted a confidential treatment to Tesla in order to keep the details of the new radar under wraps. Late last month, Tesla applied to extend that confidentiality treatment another 60 days from its date of expiration, which is December 7.
i hope this answers your question
Wayback Machine if anyone wants to do some research: https://web.archive.org/web/20220...ely/design
I'll throw out some notable 'milestones' , focusing only on the Model Y LR base model:
* Feb 2021 - $49,000 - Roughly the lowest price for the Y LR (not including the SR @ $42k)
From this point forward, Tesla started increasing the price about $1-2 every month or so, until it peaked out at $66,000. Ex:
* May 2021 - $51,000
* July 2021 - $53,000, etc...
* Feb 2022 - $59,000, etc...
* July 2022 - $66,000 <-- peak
* Dec 1 2022 - $66,000 (-$3750 credit/refund)
* Dec 15 2022 - $66,000 (-$7500 credit/refund)
* Jan 1 2023 - $66,000 back to peak (-$7500 fed tax credit only on 7-seater)
* Jan 13 2023 - $53,000 (-$7500 fed tax credit on base model + 7-seater but not performance)
* Jan 23 2023 - $53,500 (-$7500 fed tax credit on base model + 7-seater but not performance)
* Feb 4 2023 - $55,000 (-$7500 fed tax credit on all models)
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Most likely that's our group range, and it won't change until they get the new supply batch allocated
https://zevcentric.com/blogs/zevc...y-teardown
Brakes are the same too
Boost option is available with either motor
It delivers roughly half the difference between the P and the unboosted LR model.
Having a 980 is of no value at all to the end user, unless they plan to pursue a 3rd party hack to turn it into a P.
(The brake difference is also of no value in normal street use of course,...might be of some benefit if you take the car to the track, but even then not much given it was the rear calipers and you'd likely be better off with aftermarket brake options from folks like MPP in that case)
It delivers roughly half the difference between the P and the unboosted LR model.
Having a 980 is of no value at all to the end user, unless they plan to pursue a 3rd party hack to turn it into a P.
(The brake difference is also of no value in normal street use of course,...might be of some benefit if you take the car to the track, but you'd likely be better off with aftermarket brake options from folks like MPP in that case)
then in your opinion there's little to no value to pay for the performance option?
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It delivers roughly half the difference between the P and the unboosted LR model.
Having a 980 is of no value at all to the end user, unless they plan to pursue a 3rd party hack to turn it into a P.
(The brake difference is also of no value in normal street use of course,...might be of some benefit if you take the car to the track, but even then not much given it was the rear calipers and you'd likely be better off with aftermarket brake options from folks like MPP in that case)
I have the basic config MYLR reserved after $500 increase. Showing feb-mar and no updates as I did not fill any registration details.
There's some advantages... how much (if anything) they're worth will vary by buyer.
The 2 biggest ones to my mind are:
You get the other half of the quicker acceleration that the boost on an LR does not get you.
You get access to track mode.
You also get access to the 21" wheels from the factory, and a top speed increase from 135 to 155... plus a couple cosmetic things (alloy pedals, carbon fiber spoiler)
My thinking is, if you don't mind the 21" wheels (personally I hate big wheels, ride is rougher and it's easier to damage the rims on potholes too) AND you care about quickness at all.... then the P is an easy buy.
Since you were already going to pay 2k for "half" the performance difference with boost, why not pay 3k instead to get ALL of that performance difference... plus track mode access and the top speed and cosmetic bumps too.
If you do NOT care about quickness, then skip the P as you wouldn't be buying the boost either and you save 3k.
(If you care about quickness but hate the 21s you can always sell them and swap smaller wheels on after the fact, just a bit of a PITA to do)
The 2 biggest ones to my mind are:
You get the other half of the quicker acceleration that the boost on an LR does not get you.
You get access to track mode.
You also get access to the 21" wheels from the factory, and a top speed increase from 135 to 155... plus a couple cosmetic things (alloy pedals, carbon fiber spoiler)
My thinking is, if you don't mind the 21" wheels (personally I hate big wheels, ride is rougher and it's easier to damage the rims on potholes too) AND you care about quickness at all.... then the P is an easy buy.
Since you were already going to pay 2k for "half" the performance difference with boost, why not pay 3k instead to get ALL of that performance difference... plus track mode access and the top speed and cosmetic bumps too.
If you do NOT care about quickness, then skip the P as you wouldn't be buying the boost either and you save 3k.
(If you care about quickness but hate the 21s you can always sell them and swap smaller wheels on after the fact, just a bit of a PITA to do)
So what are the things I should be looking at regarding the VIN? FWIW, my order is the MYLR, not performance.
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Plus you lose about 4 miles /day on charge, drive or not.
The second attached image shows 96% efficiency going from 47% to 100% (when I was going on a long trip).
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