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Walmart | $11.22 |
Product Name: | Ever Start Universal 12-Volt Battery Checker with Indicator Model 5140 Automotive Battery Tester New |
Product Description: | Stay in check with the EVERSTART 12-Volt Battery Check with Indicator Model 5140. Mainly used in vehicles laboratories and other devices that are compatible with a 12-Volt battery the EVERSTART Battery Check is the perfect tool to determine the health of your battery. This battery check has an indicator that features a light display indicating the 3 charging levels and the 3 battery condition levels. The 3 Charging Levels are: “15.5V-Over-voltage Regulator Failure” “14.5V-Max Charger Voltage” and “13.2V-Charger and Alternator Charging”. The 3 Battery Condition Levels are: “12.6V-Full” “12.0V-50%” and “11.5V-Low”. This battery check is used for 12 VDC only. Always be sure of your battery s health with the EVERSTART 12-Volt Battery Check with Indicator. |
Product SKU: | 230910879 |
UPC: | 681131167970 |
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The same can be achieved by using any multimeter capable of measuring DC voltage:
Car off - voltage at battery: <=11.5V (Low), 12V (50%), >=12.6V (Full)
Car running - voltage at battery: 13.2V-15.5V (Alternator OK), >15.5V (Over Voltage)
The same can be achieved by using any multimeter capable of measuring DC voltage:
Car off - voltage at battery: <=11.5V (Low), 12V (50%), >=12.6V (Full)
Car running - voltage at battery: 13.2V-15.5V (Alternator OK), >15.5V (Over Voltage)
But anyway, when your car won't start it is likely the battery not having enough power to turn the engine. Especially when it's an old battery and the temperature is super cold. If it's the alternator than it's more dangerous, your car shut off when you are driving. Than all the "assist" stuff stop assisting and things become hard like the steering wheel and the brake. They still work, just it's no longer assist. I'm wondering if the current vehicles design to be too dependent on the "assist".
Unfortunately the above happened to me while on a major expressway in Chicago. It was absolutely terrifying. It went from fine to engine cutting out in the matter for a few minutes. I had barely gotten enough time to get to an offramp to the side of a street.
I was in the middle of delivery in the "hood" Car started smelling like rotten eggs anf the gauges/lights were going nuts (like I was being zapped by a UFO). Barely nade ut out of there and to a fas station.
good times
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The same can be achieved by using any multimeter capable of measuring DC voltage:
Car off - voltage at battery: <=11.5V (Low), 12V (50%), >=12.6V (Full)
Car running - voltage at battery: 13.2V-15.5V (Alternator OK), >15.5V (Over Voltage)
https://i.imgur.io/kdMGYLV_d.webp
The same can be achieved by using any multimeter capable of measuring DC voltage:
Car off - voltage at battery: <=11.5V (Low), 12V (50%), >=12.6V (Full)
Car running - voltage at battery: 13.2V-15.5V (Alternator OK), >15.5V (Over Voltage)
Thanks for the info!
Having an oven doesn't make you a chef and owning a microwave doesn't mean you aren't one.
Having an oven doesn't make you a chef and owning a microwave doesn't mean you aren't one.
The problem with the Dunning-Kruger effect is those will "half a brain" don't know...what they don't know. Their lack of knowledge of a subject causes them to over simplify it.
"Look Mr. AutoZone employee, low voltage"..."that means my thingamajigger needs replacing according to youtube." An alternator, battery, and 3 hours later you still have low voltage because you didn't realize it was just corrosion on the battery cable or a rely that wouldn't 'open' causing a constant drain
Just search "low voltage car battery" on youtube and see how many conflicting answers you can find in "10 minutes."
BTW, we wouldn't be here if you weren't being "argumentative"...you replied to me...remember?