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Amazon | $14.99 |
Product Name: | ECHOGEAR On-Wall Surge Protector with 6 Pivoting AC Outlets & 1080 Joules of Surge Protection - Low Profile Design Installs Over Existing Outlets to Protect Your Gear (White) |
Manufacturer: | ECHOGEAR |
Model Number: | 4330215482 |
Product SKU: | B071NGLS26 |
UPC: | 793795531643 |
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According to the Q&A in the ge one, its 500v clamping but one of the question also says it has no surge protection. So not really sure. Also monoprice has a version of this and monoprice says its 500v clamping also. 500v is okay, not the best as things like anker is like over 600v and some generic ones are like 700v+
GE Version
https://www.amazon.com/GE-6-Outlet-Protector-Rotating-37063/dp/B071WKM8S1/ [amazon.com]
Monoprice version
https://www.monoprice.c
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I still remember recall of power strips with rotating plug.
And I don't believe NRTL (UL) includes durability testing for those rotating things..
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According to the Q&A in the ge one, its 500v clamping but one of the question also says it has no surge protection. So not really sure. Also monoprice has a version of this and monoprice says its 500v clamping also. 500v is okay, not the best as things like anker is like over 600v and some generic ones are like 700v+
GE Version
https://www.amazon.com/GE-6-Outlet-Protector-Rotating-37063/dp/B071WKM8S1/ [amazon.com]
Monoprice version
https://www.monoprice.c
It turns out "Let-Through Voltage" is more reliable spec than clamping voltage, but it's harder to achieve the safe 300V Let-Through.
Let-Through / Clamping voltage is one among many important factors in surge protection devices (SPD)- the "Joules" rating is the power/time absorption capability - how-much-for-how-long it can "take" the surge(s) (i.e., the energy is diverted to the ground wire), and the "Response Time" has to be quicker than the time that allows for the surge energy (that sneaked by) sufficient to fry your device electronics.
Basically, if the SPD takes more than 10 nanoseconds (ns) to start suppression, all its other nice specs are moot. An APC SPD was measured at a good, 1 ns response time (therefore, has to suppress more total energy per surge/spike than its competitors).
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Also, how important is outlet surge protection anyway, given that most surges are from lightning and no surge protector's going to protect you from that? Are local surges that common, within one's one home, say from other appliances, and how does that actually happen? Is it a flyback type of thing when motorized appliances suddenly shut off and send a surge back to the wiring? And even if so, can such surges damage typical kitchen appliances, as opposed to computers and TVs?
Also, how important is outlet surge protection anyway, given that most surges are from lightning and no surge protector's going to protect you from that? Are local surges that common, within one's one home, say from other appliances, and how does that actually happen? Is it a flyback type of thing when motorized appliances suddenly shut off and send a surge back to the wiring? And even if so, can such surges damage typical kitchen appliances, as opposed to computers and TVs?
For your 1st question, you need to hire an electrician before you burn your house down by chaining tons of high-power kitchen appliances into outlet multipliers and extension cords. Those should ALWAYS be plugged directly into an outlet! You probably need to make sure it's properly grounded, has GFCI outlets and is using up-to-code wiring anyway. Also, these rotating plugs mean extra failure points with high resistance where a fire can start with a little bad luck and a lot of current, like you'd see with most of those appliances by themselves.
For your second, yes, they are that common. Most surges are small, happen frequently and cause accumulated damage over time from thousands of little hits. Lightning causes surges over a neighborhood, not just where it directly strikes. Appliances, motors, etc, often feed back noise and surges, as do malfunctioning electronics. Talk to your electrician about the best way to upgrade your kitchen wiring and outlets, and about a level-2 or level-1 TVSS to protect the whole house.
Lol @ No HDMI comment below.
Never ever trust the cheap USB power others in a surge protector, especially a cheap one, unless you're just plugging in a cheapo 5V light or fan into it. It won't provide the correct voltages and current you need, the power will be very dirty, and you're likely to fry your expensive device.
Great, another "Made in China" old stereotypical comment. Welcome to 2023.
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For your second, yes, they are that common. Most surges are small, happen frequently and cause accumulated damage over time from thousands of little hits. Lightning causes surges over a neighborhood, not just where it directly strikes. Appliances, motors, etc, often feed back noise and surges, as do malfunctioning electronics. Talk to your electrician about the best way to upgrade your kitchen wiring and outlets, and about a level-2 or level-1 TVSS to protect the whole house.
Anyway, this has worked for 20 years without fire or other issues. It's just that these extenders stop working eventually and I was looking for recs for a new one. As I wrote we never use all these appliances at once. When they're just plugged in they use minimal power. And we have a circuit breaker in the apartment that the previous landlord installed, so if we absentmindedly try to use too many appliances, it immediately kicks in and shuts the whole circuit off. An electrician would just add another outlet on the same circuit so I don't see how that would solve anything. I appreciate the concern and advice but it's just not a viable solution for us.