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So I started to ladder T-Bills for the reasons everyone is stating in this thread. The rate is so volatile (in a good way) that locking into anything even 12 months is too long for me and rates continue to climb. I use fidelity and my suggestion is this.
When they offer the new 4 week and 8 week and 13 week t-bill (they auction on diff days and diff weeks) go in and buy one of each of them with whatever money you can spare. Let's use 5k for each.
I would buy a 4 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy an 8 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy a 13 week t-bill WITH Rollover for 5k
Then after 4 weeks when that first on comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Then after 8 weeks when the second comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Now you will have 3 13 week t-bills rolling every 4 weeks or so and rolling into a new one with the proceeds. This way every 4 weeks you are capturing an increasing rate and not locked into anything longer than 13 weeks. You benefit from the rate hikes, can cash out at any time, and you have state tax shelter from the earned interest.
I can almost guarantee that the above will yield you more net income (taking in tax break) at the end of 11months then the 5% locked CD
just my 2cents
You can buy treasuries from just about any brokerage. I use Fidelity, as I like their platform and they don't charge fees/commissions for treasuries. Fidelity Fixed Income Page[fidelity.com]
Follow the above link and scroll down to the row "U.S. Treasury." Choose the duration you want and click on it. You can then click "buy" to start a trade of a specific treasury bill/bond. Fidelity's Intro to Treasuries[fidelity.com]
This is true, but it doesn't make an 11-month CD at 5% a bad idea. Those HYS can change their rates at any time, but here you're guaranteed to get 5%.
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What is the advantage of buying treasuries from brokerage sites VS directly from the treasury at their treasurydirect website?
The TreasuryDirect site is terrible (government), while the brokerage sites are easy to use (private industry). If the cost to trade is the same either way (zero), then why use a clumsy website that feels like it's from the dot-com bust?
Looking at the 3-month option, I see a few with a $5K minimum. Some say zero coupon, slightly different yield & fractional difference in price. How are you deciding which one to pick? Also, do the ones ABOVE 0% coupon but with higher yields offer any added benefit? Thank you.
Yield to maturity is all you need to consider for a short term bond. I'd encourage you to do to a little bit of research. While short term US Treasuries are basically the safest investment there is, it's really not great to invest in anything with such a minimal understanding.
Has any one opened this CD yet? I opened one yesterday and maturity value amounts to yield of ~3.4% though paperwork states 5%. Not sure if they are taking out taxes to calculate maturity value. I called Capital one and couldn't get a logical explanation.
Has any one opened this CD yet? I opened one yesterday and maturity value amounts to yield of ~3.4% though paperwork states 5%. Not sure if they are taking out taxes to calculate maturity value. I called Capital one and couldn't get a logical explanation.
I opened one today and using their calculated maturity value from my account, I'm calculating a 4.56564% interest rate. Using their calculator[capitalone.com] and using that maturity value estimation, I'm calculating a 4.574% interest rate for the same amount.
That said, I think it's all a bit misleading to showcase the 5% APY since it assumes 12 months, where as the term is for 11. So, you won't see a 5% yield until 12 months have passed, but that means you'll automatically be opted into another 11 month CD at an unknown rate and subject to a 3 month interest penalty.
Quote
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Grace Period: You may redeem your Certificate of Deposit within ten (10) calendar days after the maturity date without penalty
Idea....What am I not thinking about...12 month 0% credit card balance transfer offer (3% fee) into a 12 month treasuries or CD. Set up auto pay monthly from an account that has funds to cover minimum payments. Set an alarm for 12 months later to pay off the credit card.
Earn 5% - pay 3% fee. Tax on 5% minus 3% interest. Assume no state taxes (in Texas).
What am I missing besides temporarily lowered credit score (high credit usage) and possibility to forget to pay min payment or closing at 12 months?
Back in early 10s, there were Walmart shoppers on fatwallet finance (stock trades) thread worth 5m+. Lmao
How do you think they got to 5M? Getting to certain wealth level doesn't mean you just start frittering it away. And Colgate toothpaste bought at Walmart is no different from Colgage toothpaste bought at Walgreens - though I think Walgreens is much cheaper for toothpaste - just ordered 4 this morning :-)
Idea....What am I not thinking about...12 month 0% credit card balance transfer offer (3% fee) into a 12 month treasuries or CD. Set up auto pay monthly from an account that has funds to cover minimum payments. Set an alarm for 12 months later to pay off the credit card.
Earn 5% - pay 3% fee. Tax on 5% minus 3% interest. Assume no state taxes (in Texas).
What am I missing besides temporarily lowered credit score (high credit usage) and possibility to forget to pay min payment or closing at 12 months?
I did this 20 years ago when savings rates were 6-7% but I only open credit cards with 0% transfer fee. I don't know if its worth the time with a 3% fee.
How do you think they got to 5M? Getting to certain wealth level doesn't mean you just start frittering it away. And Colgate toothpaste bought at Walmart is no different from Colgage toothpaste bought at Walgreens - though I think Walgreens is much cheaper for toothpaste - just ordered 4 this morning :-)
How: Stonks. Lots of gains since 2010, ScubaDave. Yes, a lot of people have an exaggerated idea of relatively mild wealth.
How: Stonks. Lots of gains since 2010, ScubaDave. Yes, a lot of people have an exaggerated idea of relatively mild wealth.
While I agree that Stocks is how they got there - but in order to buy stocks, you need money. So you start out conservative - don't be buying huge mansions / expensive cars etc. when you first start out (unless you got lucky somewhere). Invest and then once you get to a certain level, then expenses don't really matter - they are like taking a drop from the ocean. Obviously - there is a balance - don't live on rice alone to save-save-save. That is what grad student colleague was doing.
While I agree that Stocks is how they got there - but in order to buy stocks, you need money. So you start out conservative - don't be buying huge mansions / expensive cars etc. when you first start out (unless you got lucky somewhere). Invest and then once you get to a certain level, then expenses don't really matter - they are like taking a drop from the ocean. Obviously - there is a balance - don't live on rice alone to save-save-save. That is what grad student colleague was doing.
I wasn't hypothesizing, we FWers used to avidly share trades back then before stocktwits etc. but yes I totally agree, hold off on the yuge mansions but otoh it's OK to buy a ribeye cap, kids!
tldr; Capital One froze the interest rate of older, supposedly "high yield savings accounts" at 0.3%. Basically, they silently converted them to low interest accounts.
I've been a customer of Capital One (IngDirect originally) since 2004. I had their "360 Savings account". Capital One claimed it is a high interest account and rates will fluctuate based on Federal reserve interest rates.
Apparently, some years ago they started a new savings account called "360 Performance Savings" with much higher interest rates. The new Performance savings has a interest rate of 3.4% as of today. While the legacy account is only at 0.3% and it stopped fluctuating with Fed rates many years ago.
So I lost a lot of money over the years as my savings account silently turned into a regular savings account and stopped being a high interest account.
They didn't inform established customers of the new Performance savings account and kept people like me at 0.3%. At a minimum, they should have informed existing customers of this new account type.
I learned about this new account a couple of days ago. This is clearly bad faith behavior by the bank. I am in the process of closing out my account. I can never trust Capital One again. You should not do this to long term customers to make a few bucks.
Search online for "womens money capital one cheated high interest accounts" to find other customers that got cheated the same way.
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When they offer the new 4 week and 8 week and 13 week t-bill (they auction on diff days and diff weeks) go in and buy one of each of them with whatever money you can spare. Let's use 5k for each.
I would buy a 4 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy an 8 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy a 13 week t-bill WITH Rollover for 5k
Then after 4 weeks when that first on comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Then after 8 weeks when the second comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Now you will have 3 13 week t-bills rolling every 4 weeks or so and rolling into a new one with the proceeds. This way every 4 weeks you are capturing an increasing rate and not locked into anything longer than 13 weeks. You benefit from the rate hikes, can cash out at any time, and you have state tax shelter from the earned interest.
I can almost guarantee that the above will yield you more net income (taking in tax break) at the end of 11months then the 5% locked CD
just my 2cents
Fidelity Fixed Income Page [fidelity.com]
Follow the above link and scroll down to the row "U.S. Treasury." Choose the duration you want and click on it. You can then click "buy" to start a trade of a specific treasury bill/bond.
Fidelity's Intro to Treasuries [fidelity.com]
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Maybe start here [fidelity.com].
Thanks for sharing!
Q: How do you think people build wealth?
A: Working, investing, saving, and spending intelligently are all important.
There is a good book called The Millionaire Next Door. It blows the lid on who the true self made millionaires are and its not who you think.
Back in early 10s, there were Walmart shoppers on fatwallet finance (stock trades) thread worth 5m+. Lmao
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That said, I think it's all a bit misleading to showcase the 5% APY since it assumes 12 months, where as the term is for 11. So, you won't see a 5% yield until 12 months have passed, but that means you'll automatically be opted into another 11 month CD at an unknown rate and subject to a 3 month interest penalty.
Earn 5% - pay 3% fee. Tax on 5% minus 3% interest. Assume no state taxes (in Texas).
What am I missing besides temporarily lowered credit score (high credit usage) and possibility to forget to pay min payment or closing at 12 months?
Earn 5% - pay 3% fee. Tax on 5% minus 3% interest. Assume no state taxes (in Texas).
What am I missing besides temporarily lowered credit score (high credit usage) and possibility to forget to pay min payment or closing at 12 months?
How: Stonks. Lots of gains since 2010, ScubaDave. Yes, a lot of people have an exaggerated idea of relatively mild wealth.
I wasn't hypothesizing, we FWers used to avidly share trades back then before stocktwits etc. but yes I totally agree, hold off on the yuge mansions but otoh it's OK to buy a ribeye cap, kids!
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I've been a customer of Capital One (IngDirect originally) since 2004. I had their "360 Savings account". Capital One claimed it is a high interest account and rates will fluctuate based on Federal reserve interest rates.
Apparently, some years ago they started a new savings account called "360 Performance Savings" with much higher interest rates. The new Performance savings has a interest rate of 3.4% as of today. While the legacy account is only at 0.3% and it stopped fluctuating with Fed rates many years ago.
So I lost a lot of money over the years as my savings account silently turned into a regular savings account and stopped being a high interest account.
They didn't inform established customers of the new Performance savings account and kept people like me at 0.3%. At a minimum, they should have informed existing customers of this new account type.
I learned about this new account a couple of days ago. This is clearly bad faith behavior by the bank. I am in the process of closing out my account. I can never trust Capital One again. You should not do this to long term customers to make a few bucks.
Search online for "womens money capital one cheated high interest accounts" to find other customers that got cheated the same way.