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So I started to ladder T-Bills for the reasons everyone is stating in this thread. The rate is so volatile (in a good way) that locking into anything even 12 months is too long for me and rates continue to climb. I use fidelity and my suggestion is this.
When they offer the new 4 week and 8 week and 13 week t-bill (they auction on diff days and diff weeks) go in and buy one of each of them with whatever money you can spare. Let's use 5k for each.
I would buy a 4 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy an 8 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy a 13 week t-bill WITH Rollover for 5k
Then after 4 weeks when that first on comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Then after 8 weeks when the second comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Now you will have 3 13 week t-bills rolling every 4 weeks or so and rolling into a new one with the proceeds. This way every 4 weeks you are capturing an increasing rate and not locked into anything longer than 13 weeks. You benefit from the rate hikes, can cash out at any time, and you have state tax shelter from the earned interest.
I can almost guarantee that the above will yield you more net income (taking in tax break) at the end of 11months then the 5% locked CD
just my 2cents
You can buy treasuries from just about any brokerage. I use Fidelity, as I like their platform and they don't charge fees/commissions for treasuries. Fidelity Fixed Income Page[fidelity.com]
Follow the above link and scroll down to the row "U.S. Treasury." Choose the duration you want and click on it. You can then click "buy" to start a trade of a specific treasury bill/bond. Fidelity's Intro to Treasuries[fidelity.com]
This is true, but it doesn't make an 11-month CD at 5% a bad idea. Those HYS can change their rates at any time, but here you're guaranteed to get 5%.
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MY bad, i mean $5000 since 4 and 8 week was not available yesterday so i decide to buy the 2 week.
You can use any of the online interest rate calculator available to find the amount. There other way to look at it is the value after you buy. You will get a discounted price (price you paid) which will show on fidelity. And on maturity you will have $5000 in your account. The difference is the gain.
That auction doesn't take place until Feb 14.
I don't see the 12-day T-bill being available on Fidelity's website to purchase today. Maybe it was there yesterday, but it isn't there today.
That auction doesn't take place until Feb 14.
I don't see the 12-day T-bill being available on Fidelity's website to purchase today. Maybe it was there yesterday, but it isn't there today.
I have opened the cd account, I would prefer my interest compounded and reinvested in through the CD term, can anyone tell me if i still need to turn to interest payout payment? Not sure what's this payout option for
So I started to ladder T-Bills for the reasons everyone is stating in this thread. The rate is so volatile (in a good way) that locking into anything even 12 months is too long for me and rates continue to climb. I use fidelity and my suggestion is this.
When they offer the new 4 week and 8 week and 13 week t-bill (they auction on diff days and diff weeks) go in and buy one of each of them with whatever money you can spare. Let's use 5k for each.
I would buy a 4 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy an 8 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy a 13 week t-bill WITH Rollover for 5k
Then after 4 weeks when that first on comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Then after 8 weeks when the second comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Now you will have 3 13 week t-bills rolling every 4 weeks or so and rolling into a new one with the proceeds. This way every 4 weeks you are capturing an increasing rate and not locked into anything longer than 13 weeks. You benefit from the rate hikes, can cash out at any time, and you have state tax shelter from the earned interest.
I can almost guarantee that the above will yield you more net income (taking in tax break) at the end of 11months then the 5% locked CD
just my 2cents
Good idea, I'm trying to do the same but I only see 2 week, 12 week, and 24 week on fidelity under New Issues.
Also isn't this less attractive because our core positions are now earning 4.18%?
I have opened the cd account, I would prefer my interest compounded and reinvested in through the CD term, can anyone tell me if i still need to turn to interest payout payment? Not sure what's this payout option for
I think this option let's you withdraw the interest payments each month or each quarter, instead of waiting until the end. The problem is you don't get the benefit of the interest accruing. You get less money at the end than you would have. The banks like this option because they have to pay you less money. I'm not sure why anyone would choose this option.
If somebody is of the type that they will keep borrowing and insanely spend and get into trouble, then what you are doing is absolutely the right thing to do - never get into trouble.
However, if somebody is disciplined and pays their bills all the time, then it all boils down to what you earn and what you pay. If a car company is offering me 2.9% for 5 years and I can easily make 2.9% in investments, then all those comments about "pay interest and utlimately pay extra" are not applicable. Obviously, the situation is a bit more complex - if the car company has a rebate in liu of the financing, that has to be included in the calculation. Also interest earned is taxable but interest paid is generally not taken off the taxes. So it is not an easy decision but simply looking at it as paying interest is wrong.
My county charges 2.3% for credit card fees for property taxes. However, if I get a new credit card that has a spend bonus and I can easily meet the spend bonus with the property taxes, it is absolutely worth it if the bonus is big enough. Same thing applies for IRS - there are credit card companies that charge 1.87% for paying IRS by credit card. On surface, that seems bad but if I have a credit card that gives me 2%, then charging to the card is the better option. Bottomline - there should be no black and white rules when it comes to managing money - just do quick thinking to understand what is a better option. Unfortunately - the car thing I mentioned above is not quick thinking but a lot of other things are.
Agreed, there are definitely valid reasons to have debt such as what you explained but in my few sentence comment I think people know what I'm talking about.
You could make some serious bank using your crystal ball!
its a very high likely hood as inflation is extremely high food prices went up 20-30% last year and this year its already 10% higher for many items at costco. and the year just started with oil prices at 60-80 only if oil goes up to 100 again inflation will go up 20-30% again and then fed funds will need to go up to compensate to decrease demand until inflation comes down.
remember to compare, same items not substitutes.
store brand items going up in price is also another tell
this will utterly destroy the housing market even more as no one but cash buyers can buy plus
auto market this locks out 95% of households.
since prices of houses are too high already and not worth the material and land they were built on. van life for 99% of the population is in order.
until landlords go bankrupt then fire sale the properties as they get vandalized to nothing as no one can afford the rent and cities become ghost towns as wages have not kept up with rents/inflation of real necessary goods and services people need to live.
this is a fact not conspiracy. I think you know the truth since slickdeals has near the real cost of items rather than the inflated prices of items.
Good idea, I'm trying to do the same but I only see 2 week, 12 week, and 24 week on fidelity under New Issues.
Also isn't this less attractive because our core positions are now earning 4.18%?
good advice here ignore these bank cd lockup deals as gov is bankrupt and borrowing money like drunken degenerates.
never loan more than short term is the best thing one can do right now no one should be buying any 30 year or even 2 year bonds.
the longest one should buy is at most 1 year ideally 1-3-6 months is best. dont even touch the 1 year.
federal reserve needs to pivot. they are not done yet. pivot is not in order for at least another 1 year. meaning rates will need to go to 5-5.5% at least before any consideration.
IF you see food and housing property prices/rent keep going up then you know feds are not done raising rates. depends on how much landlords are demanding. if they continue inflation then the longer fed rates will be at 5-6% but 5-6% has historically been where it should be anyway.
watch stocks that went into huge debt to do buybacks fail. notice all the fang stonks are meme stonks recently
One can buy T-bills at no cost directly from Treasury Direct, a branch of the Treasury Department, at no cost from a bank account and reinvest the proceeds automatically.
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When they offer the new 4 week and 8 week and 13 week t-bill (they auction on diff days and diff weeks) go in and buy one of each of them with whatever money you can spare. Let's use 5k for each.
I would buy a 4 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy an 8 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy a 13 week t-bill WITH Rollover for 5k
Then after 4 weeks when that first on comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Then after 8 weeks when the second comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Now you will have 3 13 week t-bills rolling every 4 weeks or so and rolling into a new one with the proceeds. This way every 4 weeks you are capturing an increasing rate and not locked into anything longer than 13 weeks. You benefit from the rate hikes, can cash out at any time, and you have state tax shelter from the earned interest.
I can almost guarantee that the above will yield you more net income (taking in tax break) at the end of 11months then the 5% locked CD
just my 2cents
Fidelity Fixed Income Page [fidelity.com]
Follow the above link and scroll down to the row "U.S. Treasury." Choose the duration you want and click on it. You can then click "buy" to start a trade of a specific treasury bill/bond.
Fidelity's Intro to Treasuries [fidelity.com]
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
It's a good rate for very short term without tying your money into long term if that's what you need.
You can use any of the online interest rate calculator available to find the amount. There other way to look at it is the value after you buy. You will get a discounted price (price you paid) which will show on fidelity. And on maturity you will have $5000 in your account. The difference is the gain.
Sounds like you buy a T-bill on the secondary market.
There are no 2-week Treasury bills. The shortest duration is 4 week.
Sounds like you buy a T-bill on the secondary market.
There are no 2-week Treasury bills. The shortest duration is 4 week.
https://treasurydirect.
https://treasurydirect.gov/instit...0209_4.pdf [treasurydirect.gov]
I don't see the 12-day T-bill being available on Fidelity's website to purchase today. Maybe it was there yesterday, but it isn't there today.
I don't see the 12-day T-bill being available on Fidelity's website to purchase today. Maybe it was there yesterday, but it isn't there today.
I must be dyslexic.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
When they offer the new 4 week and 8 week and 13 week t-bill (they auction on diff days and diff weeks) go in and buy one of each of them with whatever money you can spare. Let's use 5k for each.
I would buy a 4 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy an 8 week t-bill with NO Rollover for 5k
I would buy a 13 week t-bill WITH Rollover for 5k
Then after 4 weeks when that first on comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Then after 8 weeks when the second comes up, buy another 13 week t-bill with the 5k WITH Rollover.
Now you will have 3 13 week t-bills rolling every 4 weeks or so and rolling into a new one with the proceeds. This way every 4 weeks you are capturing an increasing rate and not locked into anything longer than 13 weeks. You benefit from the rate hikes, can cash out at any time, and you have state tax shelter from the earned interest.
I can almost guarantee that the above will yield you more net income (taking in tax break) at the end of 11months then the 5% locked CD
just my 2cents
Also isn't this less attractive because our core positions are now earning 4.18%?
If somebody is of the type that they will keep borrowing and insanely spend and get into trouble, then what you are doing is absolutely the right thing to do - never get into trouble.
However, if somebody is disciplined and pays their bills all the time, then it all boils down to what you earn and what you pay. If a car company is offering me 2.9% for 5 years and I can easily make 2.9% in investments, then all those comments about "pay interest and utlimately pay extra" are not applicable. Obviously, the situation is a bit more complex - if the car company has a rebate in liu of the financing, that has to be included in the calculation. Also interest earned is taxable but interest paid is generally not taken off the taxes. So it is not an easy decision but simply looking at it as paying interest is wrong.
My county charges 2.3% for credit card fees for property taxes. However, if I get a new credit card that has a spend bonus and I can easily meet the spend bonus with the property taxes, it is absolutely worth it if the bonus is big enough. Same thing applies for IRS - there are credit card companies that charge 1.87% for paying IRS by credit card. On surface, that seems bad but if I have a credit card that gives me 2%, then charging to the card is the better option. Bottomline - there should be no black and white rules when it comes to managing money - just do quick thinking to understand what is a better option. Unfortunately - the car thing I mentioned above is not quick thinking but a lot of other things are.
remember to compare, same items not substitutes.
store brand items going up in price is also another tell
this will utterly destroy the housing market even more as no one but cash buyers can buy plus
auto market this locks out 95% of households.
since prices of houses are too high already and not worth the material and land they were built on. van life for 99% of the population is in order.
until landlords go bankrupt then fire sale the properties as they get vandalized to nothing as no one can afford the rent and cities become ghost towns as wages have not kept up with rents/inflation of real necessary goods and services people need to live.
this is a fact not conspiracy. I think you know the truth since slickdeals has near the real cost of items rather than the inflated prices of items.
Also isn't this less attractive because our core positions are now earning 4.18%?
never loan more than short term is the best thing one can do right now no one should be buying any 30 year or even 2 year bonds.
the longest one should buy is at most 1 year ideally 1-3-6 months is best. dont even touch the 1 year.
federal reserve needs to pivot. they are not done yet. pivot is not in order for at least another 1 year. meaning rates will need to go to 5-5.5% at least before any consideration.
IF you see food and housing property prices/rent keep going up then you know feds are not done raising rates. depends on how much landlords are demanding. if they continue inflation then the longer fed rates will be at 5-6% but 5-6% has historically been where it should be anyway.
watch stocks that went into huge debt to do buybacks fail. notice all the fang stonks are meme stonks recently
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.