ALLPOWERSDirect via Amazon has
Allpowers 140W Portable Solar Panel Charger (SP029) for
$146.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Slickdeals Moderator
anarchist for finding this deal.
About this item:- 5 Output For Your Need: MC-4 Output can deliver 25A(max)current, Dual USB-A port(5V/2.4A per port) for charging your 5V powered gadgets, and 18V DC outputfor charging your 12V car battery and portable generators, PD60W USB-C output for charging your laptop fastly. The junction box parallel connecting port for connecting multiple foldable solar panel.
- High Efficiency: 140W solar cell is made from US, up to 22% efficiency, providing endless joice for laptop, power station,cellphone and other battery under sun
- Foldable & Portable:1/3 lighter than the same power of solar slicon. The total power increased by 1/3 in compare with the same solar panel size. Folded size only 22x14.2x0.2inch, 9.9lb, Great for traveling off the beaten path without access to electric and won't take up much room.
- Waterproof & Durable: Constructed with a durable and waterproof nylon and adjustable bracket to receive the most effective sunlight; The solar panel is FCC, RoHS, CE certified. Short circuit and surge protection technology keep you and your devices safe.
- Includes: ALLPOWERS 140W foldable solar charger, MC-4 to 5.5x2.1mm cable, MC-4 to Anderson cable, MC-4 to alligator clip, 5 laptop and power station connectors, instruction manual, 18 monthes warranty
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It'll take approx 3 year for return on investment.
Even so, I am not going to run outside every time I have to charge my phone or laptop.
Guess this is geared more toward the campers who don't want to rough it?
It'll take approx 3 year for return on investment.
Even so, I am not going to run outside every time I have to charge my phone or laptop.
Guess this is geared more toward the campers who don't want to rough it?
25 years used to be the figure of merit for solar cells, about the lifetime of such cells. Probably a bit lower by now....
https://youtu.be/ChC_vQpG3_M
I bought the charger from aliexpress because it was $30 cheaper at the time. Just have to wait on shipping.
https://a.aliexpress.co
1. How much is the system with batteries? The system we were being sold put the power we generated back into the power grid, so if the electricity went out we were still screwed... no batteries. Batteries added tens of thousands to the cost and eventually need to be replaced.
2. Do I need to get a loan to buy? The system we were being sold required us to get a long term (30 year) loan for over $50,000. The payments on the loan were less than the money we saved on power, but you are putting something permanently on your house that you will not be able to get back if you are selling. Are people going to pay $50,000 more for your house than your neighbor or assume your loan if you sell?
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Most solar panels these days have a warranty to produce 90% of the rated output at 25 years. If you oversized your panel:inverter ratio by the recommended 15-20% to allow your inverter to operate in the efficiency sweet spot, your annual production will likely fall by less and the panels should keep producing even after that. Enphase microinverters have a high MTBF and have a high chance of lasting 25 years, like the panels. String inverters are more efficient and cheaper on average but also have higher failure rates, often within 10 years. I clean my panels with a quick spray down 2-3x per year and have been producing the expected output for the past 3 years. And so far my roof has not been damaged or leaked (this shouldn't be a problem if installed correctly and solar installers that know this provide a 25 year warranty on their roof penetrations if done on a relatively new roof).
Shall we do some math on break-even time and savings?
In Southern California, the electricity prices have gone up about 30% in the last 3 years, and we now pay about $0.36/kwh during off peak. They will likely continue to rise.
For a 5kw system at a price of $2.82/w (about the average southern California price a few months ago per energy sage) installed (pre 30% tax-credit), that becomes 1.97/w after the tax credit. So you pay $9870 for the solar after tax credit. If you put in your address and system info on pvwatts.nrel.gov, it will tell you the first year output. For the 5kw system in this post on my roof/orientation, that's 7800kwh in the first year. By the 25th year that could fall to 90% or 7000kwh (maybe not though if inverter max output which is less than panel max output).
Assuming stable rate of degradation, let's say that's about 7400kwh/year x 25 years = 185,000 kWh. $9870/185000= $0.05/kWh produced over the 25 year lifetime. At the current electric rates, your avoided lifetime electricity cost over 25 years would be (0.36-0.05)*185000=$57,350 and your savings just increase every time the electric company raises rates. $57350/25 years = $2294/year savings. $9870 solar cost/ $2294/year savings= 4.3 year break-even if rates stayed the same for that 4 year period.
(This math gets worse if you don't submit an interconnect for solar before April 14th, 2023 in California and you get stuck on NEM 3.0, so don't try to use this simplistic math in that case because they drastically devalue the buyback rates for solar.) And is you live in a state that has really cheap power, like $0.10-15/kWh, then the payback would be longer, or if your state doesn't have close to 1:1 net energy metering buyback.
So perhaps in bargain_Hunter's area the math isn't as good but I don't think a blanket statement holds true.
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Most solar panels these days have a warranty to produce 90% of the rated output at 25 years. If you oversized your panel:inverter ratio by the recommended 15-20% to allow your inverter to operate in the efficiency sweet spot, your annual production will likely fall by less and the panels should keep producing even after that. Enphase microinverters have a high MTBF and have a high chance of lasting 25 years, like the panels. String inverters are more efficient and cheaper on average but also have higher failure rates, often within 10 years. I clean my panels with a quick spray down 2-3x per year and have been producing the expected output for the past 3 years. And so far my roof has not been damaged or leaked (this shouldn't be a problem if installed correctly and solar installers that know this provide a 25 year warranty on their roof penetrations if done on a relatively new roof).
Shall we do some math on break-even time and savings?
In Southern California, the electricity prices have gone up about 30% in the last 3 years, and we now pay about $0.36/kwh during off peak. They will likely continue to rise.
For a 5kw system at a price of $2.82/w (about the average southern California price a few months ago per energy sage) installed (pre 30% tax-credit), that becomes 1.97/w after the tax credit. So you pay $9870 for the solar after tax credit. If you put in your address and system info on pvwatts.nrel.gov, it will tell you the first year output. For the 5kw system in this post on my roof/orientation, that's 7800kwh in the first year. By the 25th year that could fall to 90% or 7000kwh (maybe not though if inverter max output which is less than panel max output).
Assuming stable rate of degradation, let's say that's about 7400kwh/year x 25 years = 185,000 kWh. $9870/185000= $0.05/kWh produced over the 25 year lifetime. At the current electric rates, your avoided lifetime electricity cost over 25 years would be (0.36-0.05)*185000=$57,350 and your savings just increase every time the electric company raises rates. $57350/25 years = $2294/year savings. $9870 solar cost/ $2294/year savings= 4.3 year break-even if rates stayed the same for that 4 year period.
(This math gets worse if you don't submit an interconnect for solar before April 14th, 2023 in California and you get stuck on NEM 3.0, so don't try to use this simplistic math in that case because they drastically devalue the buyback rates for solar.) And is you live in a state that has really cheap power, like $0.10-15/kWh, then the payback would be longer, or if your state doesn't have close to 1:1 net energy metering buyback.
So perhaps in bargain_Hunter's area the math isn't as good but I don't think a blanket statement holds true.
We spent about $500 last year on power (mostly just to stay connected to the grid) where our neighbors are spending about that much every month. No leaks but as you mentioned that's covered by warranty and FWIW, I've never cleaned my panels. Probably ought to as they start getting pretty grubby late in summer but they are still producing enough to cover my needs.
I like to look at this a different way and have explained it like this to a few people and saw them finally get it. If someone told you here's a very safe investment where you spend $10K now and you'll get several hundred in cash every month for the next 20 years. Your initial investment will be paid back in 5 years and the rest if just cash for you for the next 20 years. Who wouldn't do that? Obviously you aren't getting cash in this case, just not spending it, but in the end it's really no different.
At least in these parts, So Cal like Nate's example, power keeps getting more expensive. So everyday without solar costs more money and will cost you more the longer you wait.
I experimented and would remove one at a time. That was surprising because no matter which one I removed it dropped to 172 range from the 238-242. That meant the third panel was creating more percentage deficit by adding the third. All 3 are 18v panels.
I appreciated Elecaenta's customer service. They sent me another female 5521 to MC-4 cable for free from China, when I couldn't find it elsewhere on Amazon. They plan to sell that cable soon. They also offered me a discount coupon on their soon to be released power station. But I doubt I'll buy it. It is only 200w.
BTW, ITEHIL has a cable on its website that eliminates the need for Y splitters. It includes 4 cables of 5521 into a junction box then emerging at male and female MC-4. Very convenient. I used that today to hook up the 3 panels. The cable was $29.99 on the website. They gave me a $10 off coupon to reduce overall cost including shipping. I should have bought it initially when using the GONAGAIN promo code to purchase the ITEHIL panel, but I didn't know about the cable at the time. I'm sure they'll eventually sell the cable on Amazon.
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