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Milwaukee M18 FUEL Mid-Torque 3/8” Impact Wrench (Tool Only)
$146
$271.64
+ Free Shipping
Synergy via Amazon has Milwaukee M18 FUEL Mid-Torque 3/8" Impact Wrench (Tool Only, 2960-20) on sale for $146. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member FairStraw7272 for finding this deal.
Product Details:
Thanks to Community Member FairStraw7272 for finding this deal.
Product Details:
- Best power to weight ratio is offered as the tool provides 600 ft-lbs. of nut-busting torque at only 5.0 lbs. with a 5.0Ah battery.
- 6.0" in length provides most access in tight spaces
- Tri-LEDs deliver high definition lighting to increase workspace visibility with less shadows
- 4-Mode DRIVE CONTROL provides greater control over output speed and power. Includes auto shut-off and bolt-removal mode
- Auto shut-off mode prevents over tightening and increases productivity by applying no more than 35 ft-lbs. of torque.
- Bolt-removal mode offers more control after bolt breakaway as RPMs drastically slow down once the bolt is loosened.
Original Post
Written by
Edited March 15, 2023
at 06:54 PM
If you have Amazon Prime, solid deal on impact wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...DI1B&
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...DI1B&
Created 03-14-2023
at 06:11 PM
by FairStraw7272
in
Drills & Power Tools
(6)
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80 Comments
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Featured Comments
My use case is strictly homeowner working on his own cars or light assembly.
Reviews [youtube.com] show it breaking bolts torqued to 600/ft lbs so unless you're a heavy line mechanic or need to work on farm equipment the 3/8 has plenty of power, is lighter and gets into tighter spaces. Lug nuts on passenger cars and trucks should be no challenge.
If you don't get batteries free from work (heh) be sure to get the lighter, more powerful High Output CP3.0 [milwaukeetool.com] with 21,700 cells (defined by its 21mm x 70mm size.)
Here's the slightly overbearing VCG Construction [youtube.com] guy to explain why.
If you're only looking to do tire rotations, oil changes and the occasional brake pad/rotor replacement, then it doesn't really matter so might as well get this and be covered for basically all situations (on cars, not trucks). But if you're going to be doing a lot of wrenching, repairs, restoration, maintenance, etc., then you'll definitely appreciate and prefer the M12 stubby over this and basically anything. There's literally nothing out there of comparable power that's as small and light.
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True, and something that was *just* fastened to that is diff than something fastened weeks or months ago (also holy shit, it's really been 4-5 years already!?). But yeah, with that teeny stubby and a breaker bar you can go a *long* way!
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Wrong. You have to put reason for return. If you return too much, they will ban your account. It is business after all.
Someone else posted the torque specs, and that tells you how different the tools are.
This Impact Wrench is what you needed. (actually, probably can make do with the M12 stubby)
I just received my brand new m12 1/2" stubby. Very disappointed. It couldn't remove a single lug bolt that was torqued to 110 ft lb.
Also, give it a couple ugga uggas on tighten, then reverse it. Sometimes it takes 5 to 10 seconds for it to start reversing. If it's not moving in 10 seconds, maybe 15 at the longest stop.
I'm thinking you had it on the incorrect setting - or, those lug nuts have been on there for decades, or they were over tightened? If they still don't come loose - and yes, this isn't proper procedure - use a small propane torch to heat the lug nuts. Just till they get a little hot and expand just a hair. The intent is to break the rust seal. Do not discolor the metal or get them even close to that hot. It will weaken the wheel studs.
Also, as soon as it gets warm, put the impact on it. Do each nut one at a time.
If this doesn't work, the options are to take it to a tire shop and have them loosen them, or you get a minimum 1/2 " breaker bar, a steel cheater pipe, a cut piece of 2 by 4, level to the studs to leverage the end of the cheater pipe on., and try and bust them loose.
Then return the impact for a refund because you may have got a dud?
Snug up all the bolts in a criss cross pattern, then tighten with the torque wrench in the same pattern.
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Also, give it a couple ugga uggas on tighten, then reverse it. Sometimes it takes 5 to 10 seconds for it to start reversing. If it's not moving in 10 seconds, maybe 15 at the longest stop.
I'm thinking you had it on the incorrect setting - or, those lug nuts have been on there for decades, or they were over tightened? If they still don't come loose - and yes, this isn't proper procedure - use a small propane torch to heat the lug nuts. Just till they get a little hot and expand just a hair. The intent is to break the rust seal. Do not discolor the metal or get them even close to that hot. It will weaken the wheel studs.
Also, as soon as it gets warm, put the impact on it. Do each nut one at a time.
If this doesn't work, the options are to take it to a tire shop and have them loosen them, or you get a minimum 1/2 " breaker bar, a steel cheater pipe, a cut piece of 2 by 4, level to the studs to leverage the end of the cheater pipe on., and try and bust them loose.
Then return the impact for a refund because you may have got a dud?
Lug bolts are not seized, nor am I having difficulty removing them with a wrench by hand. What I'm saying is that after re-installing the bolts and torquing them to 110 ft lb this stubby cannot remove them (2555-20).