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Model: Tripp Lite ISOBAR6Ultra Isobar 6 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, 6ft Cord, Right-Angle Plug, Metal, Lifetime Limited Warranty & $50,000 Insurance White
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Asking good questions! I'm pretty sure 140V is very low. The APC P10U2 which sells for ~$60 right now on Amazon has a clamping voltage of 330V.
Two important factors to consider:
-Clamping voltage (at what voltage (beyond normal 120V) does the surge protector act)
-Response time (how quickly does the surge protector act to break the circuit)
The faster the surge protector responds, the better (makes sense). The LOWER the clamping voltage, the less potential damage gets caused.
With the APC surge protector, your equipment gets subjected to 330V (albeit for a short period of time) BEFORE the protector kicks in. With the Tripp Lite, the voltage never goes beyond 140V, which seems amazing. Especially considering that many devices we have plugged in these days are multi-voltage (100V-240V). Laptop charger, phone charger, monitors, some TV's, can handle 240V... so if the thing stops at 140V --> amazing. Of course the fridge, the blender, and other devices that are either operating or on standby might not like 330V very much.
I have a "whole house" surge protector installed at the meter base, by the power company, as a primary/external first line of defense. Then I have my desktop, NAS, and expensive crap plugged in to an APC battery backup. You can also buy and install whole-house surge protectors that go in your break box. They provide similar protection to a meter-base device. I also have an APC UPS for the TV + devices (network switch, access point, cripple TV, Blu-Ray player)... and another APC UPS that has the main networking gear plugged in to it (router, controller, primary switch, etc.).
I'm going to pickup at least one of these Tripp-Lite protectors for other sensitive crap that isn't convenient to have plugged in to a battery backup.
Sorry for all of the quotes, but I figured you'd all be interested. I'm not convinced that the clamping voltage is 140V... According to the PDF from Tripp Lite, it's 330V... which may be just fine given the response time ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
1. That would involve purchasing from a pile of garbage like NewEgg (same company who willfully provided customer data to tax authorities when they didn't have to, for starters).
2. It's not sold by NewEgg. It's "Sold and shipped by: Great Gamer". Not NewEgg.
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1. That would involve purchasing from a pile of garbage like NewEgg (same company who willfully provided customer data to tax authorities when they didn't have to, for starters).
2. It's not sold by NewEgg. It's "Sold and shipped by: Great Gamer". Not NewEgg.
That tax move cost me over $20k out of pocket in back taxes for purchases that I made via expense reports at a long gone job. #neverforget
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Quote
from n0pax
:
That tax move cost me over $20k out of pocket in back taxes for purchases that I made via expense reports at a long gone job. #neverforget
HOLY sh*t. I always thought about it from the individual consumer / small purchase point of view. What @@sholes, unbelievable. $20K, disgusting. I haven't bought from them in many years, and I do my duty to thumbs-down every NewEgg post I see. I'm just being honest. "Poor merchant reputation". The worst part was that I'm pretty sure they DIDN'T HAVE TO divulge the info, they just did so voluntarily. And with zero disclosure to customers. WTF. I should add articles related to that debacle in my signature maybe. So that people might learn about NewEgg and make their own decision not to support these disgusting people.
To be clear: I have NO problem paying the taxes I owe. I mean sure I have a "problem" with it (like most people probably do), but I understand the principle and I'm fine with paying the taxes I"m REQUIRED to. I'm NOT fine with some piece of ***t company like NewEgg voluntarily handing over purchase data to government agencies without even putting up a fight, and without even notifying customers that they've done so. Disgraceful.
In early 2018, customers in the state of Connecticut were notified that Newegg had not collected state sales tax due on out-of-state purchases in the past three years. Newegg was given a choice of collecting such tax in the future or turning over customer information to the state's Department of Revenue Services, which would require customers to file a sales tax form for the past three years of purchases. Newegg chose to furnish the customer information;[40][wikipedia.org] as Newegg did not have a physical presence in Connecticut, Newegg believed it did not need to collect state sales tax from the ruling in Quill Corp. v. North Dakota[wikipedia.org]. Connecticut's Department of Revenue Services later issued tax bills to these customers.
I've seen several mentions in this thread that this surge protector clamps at 140 volts. Is there any concern that such a low clamping voltage could lead to MOV exhaustion from relatively common low-voltage surges, leaving equipment unprotected from less frequent but more damaging high-voltage surges? There must be a reason why nearly all other surge protectors use higher clamping voltages.
It's always amazing to me that people will plug thousands of dollars of equipment into a $25 surge protector. You get what you pay for e.g. low clamping voltage, effective EMI/RFI (most important with audio equipment), long life etc.
Eaton/Tripplite and Furman are both excellent choices
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Quote
from SnowDeath
:
Clamping Voltage: 140
Quote
from callmescam
:
Ignorant question...is that good or bad?
Quote
from stegall
:
Ignorant & wanting to understand, what makes this so much better than 1 at, say, 1/3 to 1/2 the cost?
Quote
from alcie
:
That's impossible. Clamping voltage cannot be below amplitude voltage, which is about 170V.
But whatever, it is UL certified, so who cares?
Quote
from Deal Hound
:
I've seen several mentions in this thread that this surge protector clamps at 140 volts. Is there any concern that such a low clamping voltage could lead to MOV exhaustion from relatively common low-voltage surges, leaving equipment unprotected from less frequent but more damaging high-voltage surges? There must be a reason why nearly all other surge protectors use higher clamping voltages.
Sorry for all of the quotes, but I figured you'd all be interested. I'm not convinced that the clamping voltage is 140V... According to the PDF from Tripp Lite, it's 330V... which may be just fine given the response time ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
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Top Comments
Two important factors to consider:
-Clamping voltage (at what voltage (beyond normal 120V) does the surge protector act)
-Response time (how quickly does the surge protector act to break the circuit)
The faster the surge protector responds, the better (makes sense). The LOWER the clamping voltage, the less potential damage gets caused.
With the APC surge protector, your equipment gets subjected to 330V (albeit for a short period of time) BEFORE the protector kicks in. With the Tripp Lite, the voltage never goes beyond 140V, which seems amazing. Especially considering that many devices we have plugged in these days are multi-voltage (100V-240V). Laptop charger, phone charger, monitors, some TV's, can handle 240V... so if the thing stops at 140V --> amazing. Of course the fridge, the blender, and other devices that are either operating or on standby might not like 330V very much.
I have a "whole house" surge protector installed at the meter base, by the power company, as a primary/external first line of defense. Then I have my desktop, NAS, and expensive crap plugged in to an APC battery backup. You can also buy and install whole-house surge protectors that go in your break box. They provide similar protection to a meter-base device. I also have an APC UPS for the TV + devices (network switch, access point, cripple TV, Blu-Ray player)... and another APC UPS that has the main networking gear plugged in to it (router, controller, primary switch, etc.).
I'm going to pickup at least one of these Tripp-Lite protectors for other sensitive crap that isn't convenient to have plugged in to a battery backup.
https://assets.tripplit
"UL1449 Let Through Rating 330V"
"AC Suppression Joule Rating 3330"
"AC Suppression Response Time NM = 0 ns. CM = <1 ns"
Thought I'd add this:"From the Wirecutter: The best surge protector for your home electronics"
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2...ectronics/
Shame it's from 2016, but was still an interesting read.
2. It's not sold by NewEgg. It's "Sold and shipped by: Great Gamer". Not NewEgg.
77 Comments
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2. It's not sold by NewEgg. It's "Sold and shipped by: Great Gamer". Not NewEgg.
Definitely an example of "buy once, cry once". I think one of mine is easily 20+ years old.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank _A2
HOLY sh*t. I always thought about it from the individual consumer / small purchase point of view. What @@sholes, unbelievable. $20K, disgusting. I haven't bought from them in many years, and I do my duty to thumbs-down every NewEgg post I see. I'm just being honest. "Poor merchant reputation". The worst part was that I'm pretty sure they DIDN'T HAVE TO divulge the info, they just did so voluntarily. And with zero disclosure to customers. WTF. I should add articles related to that debacle in my signature maybe. So that people might learn about NewEgg and make their own decision not to support these disgusting people.
To be clear: I have NO problem paying the taxes I owe. I mean sure I have a "problem" with it (like most people probably do), but I understand the principle and I'm fine with paying the taxes I"m REQUIRED to. I'm NOT fine with some piece of ***t company like NewEgg voluntarily handing over purchase data to government agencies without even putting up a fight, and without even notifying customers that they've done so. Disgraceful.
In early 2018, customers in the state of Connecticut were notified that Newegg had not collected state sales tax due on out-of-state purchases in the past three years. Newegg was given a choice of collecting such tax in the future or turning over customer information to the state's Department of Revenue Services, which would require customers to file a sales tax form for the past three years of purchases. Newegg chose to furnish the customer information;[40] [wikipedia.org] as Newegg did not have a physical presence in Connecticut, Newegg believed it did not need to collect state sales tax from the ruling in Quill Corp. v. North Dakota [wikipedia.org]. Connecticut's Department of Revenue Services later issued tax bills to these customers.
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I had one blow in 2014 and they replaced it easily. It saved equipment. As did some Belkin surge protectors.
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But whatever, it is UL certified, so who cares?
This is Mercedes-Benz of power strips. Nobody was fired for buying IBM, nobody is for buying Tripp Lite.
Eaton/Tripplite and Furman are both excellent choices
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank _A2
But whatever, it is UL certified, so who cares?
Sorry for all of the quotes, but I figured you'd all be interested. I'm not convinced that the clamping voltage is 140V... According to the PDF from Tripp Lite, it's 330V...
https://assets.tripplite.com/product-pdfs/en/isobar6ultra.pdf [tripplite.com]
"UL1449 Let Through Rating 330V"
"AC Suppression Joule Rating 3330"
"AC Suppression Response Time NM = 0 ns. CM = <1 ns"
Thought I'd add this:"From the Wirecutter: The best surge protector for your home electronics"
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2...ectronics/
Shame it's from 2016, but was still an interesting read.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
LOL you sure about that ;-)? Versa ~$15,000 base. CLA 250 ~$40,000 base. ~2.66x. Outside of the US, the A-Class starts in the low ~$30,000's.
Granted, the CLA is a piece of crap Mercedes LOL.
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