Detailed Answer:
Step 1: Look at Line 11 on your 2022 Tax return (Form 1040).
Step 1a: For the vast majority of taxpayers this won't apply: Add to Step 1 any income from Puerto Rico you excluded, any housing exclusion foreign income you claimed (Lines 45 and 50 of Form 2555), and American Samoa residential income excluded (Line 15 of Form 4563).
Step 2: If that number is less than:
$300,000 Married Filing Jointly
$225,000 Head of Household
$150,000 Single and any other filing status
then continue to Step 3. Otherwise, you currently DO NOT qualify for any rebate, and will need to reduce that number on your 2023 Tax return below those limits. You can reduce that number by traditional 401k contributions, or some small-business options.
Step 3: Look at Line 24 on your 2022 Tax return (Form 1040).
- If it is greater than $7,500 and your income in 2023 stays the same or increase, you will get the full $7,500.
- If it is less than that, you get that amount (assuming your income stays the same). If your income increases then you may get a larger refund, up to $7,500.
In other words, in order to get the full tax credit, you must OWE at least $7500 in taxes and be under the income limits.
You absolutely CAN NOT carry over for a few years, or even one more year. It is a one time credit. Any unused credit is LOST!
Q7. Is the new clean vehicle credit refundable or able to be carried forward? (updated March 31, 2023)
A7. The new clean vehicle credit may only be claimed to the extent of reported tax due of the taxpayer and cannot be refunded. The new clean vehicle credit cannot be carried forward to the extent it is claimed for personal use on Form 1040, Schedule 3, Additional Credits and Payments.
from page 3 of this IRS document: https://www.irs.gov/pub/taxpros/fs-2023-08.pdf
* If you're concerned about battery degradation, you can take a look at this site [teslalogger.de] (Pull down the menu for Model Y LR)
* If you like to nerd out on graphs, data, and overal health of your vehicle, get a program called teslamate that can be installed on your home server. every time your car parks in your garage it will send driving telemetry data to it with pretty graphs [teslamate.org] and all.
* You can also opt to get teslausb [github.com], which can wirelessly send all your dashcam footage to your home server every time you pull into your garage.
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EV good if you have a dedicated charging station at home.
if you live in an apartment complex or condo its not as consumer friendly, unless you want to pay up the wazoo at supercharger stations and inconvenience yourself by having to go there every time to charge. Go to plugshare.com to see how much you will be paying in your area. Just multiply cents * 45kwh (assuming you're charging from 20% to 80%). For my area I would be paying $20-$25 per charge at a supercharger station. At home, with the national average electrity rate of 0.14 / kwh, it would cost $6
if you live in california, don't forget that you can also get another $2k in CVRP rebate. you get a check in the mail but the wait time is long to get it.
also don't forget about the single occupant HOV lane decal you can sign up at the DMV website.
basic autopilot is more than sufficient. autopilot still has a long ways to go imo. definitely not worth getting the advanced AP and definitely not full self driving at $15k. as MKBHD always says, don't buy a product on a promise of features yet to come.
also, make sure you setup your electricity usage to "time of use" or EV-specific plan as your bill will assuredly go up. Don't be on those tiered plans. Yes, you will end up saving money compared to ICE vehicles paying for gas, unless you get a hybrid, which is a bit more comparable, especially in areas where electricity is expensive.
additionally, people forget that you need to install a wall connector or mobile connector in your home. equipment costs $230 for the mobile connector +$45 for the nema 14-50 adapter, which is good enough especially if you do scheduled charging at night to save on electricity. installation itself will vary depending on your region and how much electricians will charge you, but it can get expensive. just make sure you're not getting ripped off as electricians are aware of the EV craze and asking for higher premiums on them. installation can go anywhere from $1k-$2k+. (according to poster SamirPD, you can ask the electrictian to install a dryer outlet and it should save you money and prevent you from being ripped off). One worthy note, EV charger and installation is tax deductible at 30%, just need to fill out the tax form [irs.gov] when you do your taxes next year. EDIT: SD poster hiro916 indicated that the 30% tax deduction only pertains to low income or rural tract areas, so YMMV [reddit.com].
as for car insurance, I'm paying $95 a month through Geico, but thats with a robust policy.
if you are impatient like me, and want to get one right away without having to wait, go to the waitingfortesla discord server [discord.com] and setup alerts for any time a Model Y drops in your local area. You have to act quick as they get snatched up relatively quickly. You can see whats in inventory on their website too [waitingfortesla.com]. Don't expect to see base model Y LR coming into inventory. If you want to pick something up quick settle for the 20 inch induction wheels (costs $2k extra) as they are more readily available. You can always sell the tires if you want to recoup some of the costs and get an aftermarket hubcap that look better than stock anyhow.
If you're interested in a real world range comparison of current popular EV's check out this YT video [youtube.com].
once you pick up your car you have 100 miles and 7 days to report any defects. panels gaps aren't as much of a problem anymore compared to years past, but be on the lookout for them. paint quality isn't so great out of the factory, mine came with swirl marks all over and had to get it paint corrected.
if you're concerned about battery degradation, you can take a look at this site [teslalogger.de] (select dropdown and look for Y LR AWD US to see the average degradation over time based on mileage. on average after 50k miles you should see about a 10% degradation, and it will degrade more slowly 50k+ miles onwards.
in terms of accessories, the only real requirement imo that you need are mud flaps. reason being is because without them, the rear passenger quarter panels will get hit with rock chips very quickly. tesmanian is a good aftermarket seller, or you can just opt for ones you see on amazon. if you want to go deeper into accessories temu is a great site for low prices compared to amazon.
if you like to nerd out on graphs, data, and overal health of your vehicle, get a program called teslamate that can be installed on your home server. every time your car parks in your garage it will send driving telemetry data to it with pretty graphs [teslamate.org] and all.
you can also opt to get teslausb [github.com], which can wirelessly send all your dashcam footage to your home server every time you pull into your garage.
my personal thoughts on ownership thus far. overall i like it. i am using it as a daily driver / commuter car. i don't think of Model Y and 3 as a 'luxury' vehicle. I see Tesla as a software company trying to be an automaker, and the legacy automakers are trying to be more like Tesla by being more tech focused. Teslas are continuously getting software updates to improve year over year. Interior build quality is spartan, and the ride quality need some improvement, especially if you are in an area with poor road conditions. if you're really into tech like me, this is the car for you. Performance vehicles I still prefer ICE cars over EV's however. first thing you will notice in an EV though, is the instant torque. that is what will grab you immediately.
If you have questions and need instant feedback join the Tesla discord, I'm active on there and other members can assist with questions you may have: https://discord.com/invite/tesla
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How are you this bad at reading?
So you know better than the people who make the car
LOL as the kids say.
You know like Tesla does calling their Level 2 ADS FULL SELF DRIVING
Yeah, LOL
You know like Tesla does calling their Level 2 ADS FULL SELF DRIVING
Yeah, LOL
How can we still be arguing that "Full Self Driving" doesn't actually mean what every single English speaker would interpret it to mean? Why can't these people just own that fact?
You know like Tesla does calling their Level 2 ADS FULL SELF DRIVING
Yeah, LOL
I mean, what it's actually called, right on the page you buy it, is "Full Self-Driving Capability"
And then just below that they make clear "The currently enabled features require active driver supervision and do not make the vehicle autonomous. " and that IN THE FUTURE the available features will evolve and expand.
So at no point do they ever claim you are buying something that can drive itself. They claim you are buying something with advanced L2 features today, and that they believe has the capability to do so in the future after further software (and regulatory) developments.
You're certainly free to remain dubious that future set of features will ever arrive but it's simply dishonest to claim they're saying they're selling the car as doing that TODAY. But then it IS an option and nobody's required to buy it either.
See above- people keep leaving off part of the name to make their arguement sound better.
OTOH, can I sue McDonalds if a Happy Meal does not improve my mood?
Can I sue Boeing if I have a nightmare on a Dreamliner?
Can I sue the Diaper Genie people if it doesn't grant wishes?
Product names aren't always as literal as you suggest.
The $1M 2500 sqft house will have better material than the $200k 2500 sqft house in Ohio.
There is no wrong choice
Low cost of living = make less, live rich
High cost of living = make more, live poor
Low cost of living = make less, live rich
High cost of living = make more, live poor
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In year 2000, it wouldn't be a "SUV"..
in year 2023, it would be
That is the only reason period
Car manufacture can do whatever they want but cannot claim it as SAE Level 3.
Now we can clearly see that you have some types of mental blockage.
Again the underlying condition is hands are not on the wheel, you seem to keep proving you have some types of mental blockage.
Therefore, under this condition level 3 being able to temporary remove their hands on wheel is inherently safer.
lol good luck with your issues. Hope you get better soon
Like, I would rather be on level 3 of the pay scale than level 2. That goes for just about anything.
The person you are debating will never admit Tesla is inferior to anything or any car period. He will pick a word or whatever and focus on that and say you are wrong.
Don't worry, rational people know the difference between higher and lower levels, just because it doesn't use the word safer, doesn't mean it is not inferred that a higher level would be safer at somethings than a lower level.
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There is NO "hands on" requirement for L2.
I even cited 2 different L2 systems that don't require hands on.
Again, your ignorance of the SAE levels, while trying to discuss the SAE levels, is a major problem for you.
And which you've yet to explain the impact to safety either way.
What is "inherently" safer about it?
What if the automated steering on the L3 car isn't as good a driver as the human with his hands on the wheel?
Plus-- again, HANDS OFF can be done at L2 as well.
So your original claim of L3 being safer is still outright false even IF you had anything to support the "hands off is safer" idea.
Which you don't.
In fact since L3 requires you to be ready to TAKE BACK OVER you can argue hands off is LESS safe- since it'll take you longer to take back over.
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