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PQIA Analysis of 5w30 in 2021, when it was updated to be rated API SP and ILSAC GF-6A: https://pqia.org/kirkland-full-sy...motor-oil/
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It doesn't take too long to look up the spec you see on the bottle and make a quick educated guess about whether it's appropriate. For some makes (eg German makes), there are spec's that supersede the basic American Petroleum Institute (API) spec that needs to be followed. These are listed on the bottle.
Example: follow the manual and buy a specific rating of oil for a German make. Keep following that. For my low-powered, nautrually aspirated, port-injected Subie, it's the basic, universal API spec. It may have started as the designator SM when I bought it, but SN (literally the next letter in the alphabet) supersedes SM. So in and so forth. After a certain period of time you literally can't find an actual oil that matches the old spec.
For my turbo Subie I choose more than the listed API spec, under the assumption that something like the GM Dexos spec may further help mitigate low speed pre-ignition (LSPI). I'd likely be fine using the generic API spec, but adding a spec that's design criteria and includes something beneficial won't hurt and may help.
The same can be said for using a super robust oil for you beater. It's not going to fix anything if it's already dying, but using a heavy duty oil may provide an additional layer of protection to keep things going a bit longer.
Finally, this isn't for you. Whatever you're doing, keep doing it. For those who have engines with specific needs it behooves them to take a day and search the internet about what the owners manual spec means. As an example the owners manual might spec the older API SM, and one could easily be confused when they see a later spec. That's admittedly an easy one to figure out. ACEA and manufacturer spec's might be tougher to decipher.
Where did you see they were dexos2? That's a diesel spec fluid which I don't believe either of these are. The little green icon looks like a 2 but it is just a logo and you'll see a small 1 inside. I believe they are both dexos1 Gen 2 (which also protects against LSPI).
I bought KS D1G3 when it was on sale a while back. It's what's in my turbo Subie as of a few days ago. 5 qts KS, 1 qt M1 - both D1G3.
I bought KS D1G3 when it was on sale a while back. It's what's in my turbo Subie as of a few days ago. 5 qts KS, 1 qt M1 - both D1G3.
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For my Subarus the oil filter is on top of the engine - couldn't be much easier to change and results in zero mess. Some of my older vehicles had the oil tucked up on the side of the engine - always made a mess.
I also installed a little Fumoto drain valve to make it even easier and less messy. I only have to do the following:
1. Jack car up from one side and add jack stand for safety
2. Slide used oil catch container under the engine drain pan
3. Turn drain valve lever to commence drain.
4. Lower car
5. Remove old oil filter and clean seating area (I only change the filter every other interval - Fram Ultra)
6. When drain is complete, shut drain valve and clean the few drops of oil on the nozzle
7. Fill new filter maybe halfway to wet the pleats and install, if applicable
8. Add oil per manual (5-6 qts depending on which Subie) and check level
9. Start engine and run for ten or so seconds (how long it takes for the idle to come down for me)
10. Check oil level and add as necessary
Anyone can do this - I have faith in you! I've done it in the grass with only hand tools before and im far from the best shade-tree mech. Lol
//
Some shops might do an oil change with your oil and filter, charging you only for labor and maybe disposal fees. If I wasn't inclined to change my own oil I'm not sure I'd do this unless I had a very good relationship with the shop, because it's your ass if something goes wrong and there's any possibility of it being the oil. Eg, they didn't put enough oil in, you don't check, they blame it on consumption due to your choice of oil.
I bought KS D1G3 when it was on sale a while back. It's what's in my turbo Subie as of a few days ago. 5 qts KS, 1 qt M1 - both D1G3.
dexos2 acea/diesel fluids have a blue swish and a white 2 in the label like this bottle
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzo.../160205180
dexos2 acea/diesel fluids have a blue swish and a white 2 in the label like this bottle
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzo.../160205180
For my Subarus the oil filter is on top of the engine - couldn't be much easier to change and results in zero mess. Some of my older vehicles had the oil tucked up on the side of the engine - always made a mess.
I also installed a little Fumoto drain valve to make it even easier and less messy. I only have to do the following:
1. Jack car up from one side and add jack stand for safety
2. Slide used oil catch container under the engine drain pan
3. Turn drain valve lever to commence drain.
4. Lower car
5. Remove old oil filter and clean seating area (I only change the filter every other interval - Fram Ultra)
6. When drain is complete, shut drain valve and clean the few drops of oil on the nozzle
7. Fill new filter maybe halfway to wet the pleats and install, if applicable
8. Add oil per manual (5-6 qts depending on which Subie) and check level
9. Start engine and run for ten or so seconds (how long it takes for the idle to come down for me)
10. Check oil level and add as necessary
Anyone can do this - I have faith in you! I've done it in the grass with only hand tools before and im far from the best shade-tree mech. Lol
//
Some shops might do an oil change with your oil and filter, charging you only for labor and maybe disposal fees. If I wasn't inclined to change my own oil I'm not sure I'd do this unless I had a very good relationship with the shop, because it's your ass if something goes wrong and there's any possibility of it being the oil. Eg, they didn't put enough oil in, you don't check, they blame it on consumption due to your choice of oil.
step 1.
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