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Model: X-Sense Smart Smoke Detector Fire Alarm with Replaceable Battery, Wi-Fi Smoke Detector, App Notifications with Optional 24/7 Professional Monitoring Service, XS01-WX, 1-Pack
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There are a lot of people who recommend photoelectric (only) smoke detectors. The problem with ionization detectors is they cause a lot of nuisance alarms - and that results in people disconnecting them - either removing batteries from detectors that aren't hard wired, or doing that plus disconnecting hard wired ones.
Here's one clear explanation of the issue: structuretech.com/smoke-alarms-deadly-differences/ (This has a few links to more info at the end of the article.) https://structuretech.com/wp-cont...-03_11.pdf http://www.consumerreports.org/ho...106391645/
You could also have mostly photoelectric, but put one or two ionization (or dual) alarms in places where they're not likely to cause nuisance alarms (moisture/smoke in kitchen, and bathroom moisture (in a hallway near the bathroom) can cause the nuisance alarms). The problem with this is that if you have hard-wired alarms, you need to have all the same alarms connected to that system, because having different ones connected in the system can cause their own problems (including nuisance alarms). A way around this is to put photoelectric-only in the system, but buy a battery operated ionization to have outside the system.
Manufacturers are supposed to be developing better detectors that reduce nuisance alarms (was first supposed to be implemented in 2019, but that got delayed; as I understand it, that will involve a different technology so these (when available) will not be labeled as photoelectric and/or ionization). Underwriters Limited developed a new standard, but implementation of that has be postponed several times already. There was a Kidde that initially claimed to meet this newest UL 217 standard (the new standard is UL 217, 8th edition; currently, smoke alarms being sold must meet the 7th edition), but Kidde stopped making that claim, and has no detectors currently that meet it. It seems manufacturers are struggling to meet this standard. (There is a less common manufacturer or two that claimed to meet the newer standard but when I looked at reviews a while ago, I wasn't convinced they were a quality product). Brief overview of 8th edition standard: http://incompliancemag.com/eighth...oke-alarm/, http://www.intertek.com/life-safe...h-edition/
===
I personally don't like the ones with the (supposedly) 10 year lithium battery - if you look at reviews, those batteries fail quite often in under 10 years - and I had this happen with some I purchased. I guess in some places, you can't buy anything else legally, but I'm luckily not in one of those places. Keep your receipt and the box if you buy these, and read the warranty, then try to make a warranty claim if the batter/detector fails.
As a note, manufacturers tend to be very misleading about which edition of the UL 217 standard they meet - often, they just say they meet UL 217 (but not which edition). To make that claim, they need to meet the standard in effect at time of manufacture, but smoke detectors that meet earlier standards can continue to be sold after the current standard is updated, so pay attention to the date of manufacture.
If you live in an area with Menards, they sell a very reasonably priced Kidde photoelectric-only smoke alarm, a little under $15. Ionization alarms tend to be cheaper than photoelectric or dual.
I personally purchase CO detectors as separate items. The digital Nighthawk, that plugs in AND operates with a battery, is my choice. It keeps track of any CO levels over 10 PPM - you can press the peak level button to see that (and reset it to zero. It won't alarm unless the level goes over 50 PPM for a certain amount of time. If you check the peak level every once in a while you may detect a problem problem that isn't yet serious enough to cause an alarm (note that natural gas stoves if not working properly or if they're not vented can generate these lower levels of CO in your house - that can cause health issues and mild headaches, especially for more sensitive or older people or people with respiratory issues.).
Unfortunately, even Underwriter Limited doesn't have really clear info about the new standard and when it's now supposed to be implemented easily found on its website - here are a few links:
ww.ul.com/news/smoke-alarms-and-smoke-detectors-new-and-revised-requirements http://www.ul.com/news/news-brief...ufacturers
Amazon prices on smoke detectors & CO detectors may go down around Black Friday/cyber monday sales.
Note that you should carefully vacuum around smoke and CO detectors at least a few times annually - maybe even monthly. Dust and bugs and spider webs can all lead to nuisance alarms or failure.
Keep your receipt and info about the warranty - you can make a warranty claim if they fail before they're supposed to. If date of manufacturer is stamped on them (I believe that is now required), you can probably make a warranty claim even if you don't have proof of when you purchased it - but they'll probably start counting the time from date of manufacture rather than date of purchase. You'll likely get a replacement unit, not money refunded.
==
In case anyone has one of these (not-so-common) brands: CPSC Warns Consumers to Immediately Stop Using GLBSUNION and CUZMAK Digital Display Carbon Monoxide Detectors (does not detect CO) - were sold on Amazon; recall from March 2023 http://www.cpsc.gov/Newsroom/News...Amazon-com
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I would like to get these —especially if the wifi will tell you when the batteries are low —BUT my state requires smoke detectors be BOTH hardwired and have batteries.
You might talk to the inspection department and possibly get away with (1) wired smoke detector and the remaining wireless.
I switched to this brand from First Alert after numerous middle of the night nuisance alarms that I think has forever traumatized my 5 year old. Middle of the night alarms appear to be a common problem with First Alert if you read reviews. I now have individual x-sense alarms in each kids rooms, and interconnected alarms for our bedroom and the rest of the house. That way if there is a problem somewhere else in the house (nuisance or not) it will wake us up and hopefully not the kids. I also have a CO detector by xsense in our room.
I have been using these for almost 4 years now without issues!. I guess some of them probably have issues.
The First Alert ones with both CO and Smoke are on sale now on Amazon. But I read in one comment above that they had a lot of false alarms from First Alert. I have been using them for 4 years no issues. Might have gotten lucky 🤪.
Limited-time deal: First Alert Battery Powered Z-Wave Smoke Detector & Carbon Monoxide Alarm, Works with Ring Alarm Base Station, 2nd Generation https://a.co/d/6lXsP50
The First Alert ones with both CO and Smoke are on sale now on Amazon. But I read in one comment above that they had a lot of false alarms from First Alert. I have been using them for 4 years no issues. Might have gotten lucky 🤪.
Limited-time deal: First Alert Battery Powered Z-Wave Smoke Detector & Carbon Monoxide Alarm, Works with Ring Alarm Base Station, 2nd Generation https://a.co/d/6lXsP50
The newer first alert smoke detectors and CO detectors are total junk. Bought a whole bunch about 2 years ago, and half of them don't even work anymore.
I literally just got 9 X-sense smoke detectors yesterday and while the price was great, it turns out they aren't UL listed. They claim they are compliant with UL standards, but without actually being tested by UL, these will fail a fire inspection (in the US). My brother is a firefighter and advises against using detectors not UL Listed. The X-sense ones I'll be returning and spending more, unfortunately, to by Kidde brand.
Last edited by fallenturtle October 16, 2023 at 12:34 PM.
Could you put the alarm on silent forever and just get a push notification on your phone? I turned my regular fire alarm off due to it going off constantly when I cook.
I bought 3 of these, the hub, and 3 of their water sensors a few months back.. Thankfully haven't had anything "test" the smoke detectors, but the water sensors helped me catch a leak in my utility room well before it became a major problem. Money well spent so far.
The state requires that in your own house? Do they come to inspect your home every year?
NYS does and while they do not do yearly inspections every time you get work done or do a permit (I mean legally) they will require you for costly upgrades. I think a year or two ago they now require lithium versions that kill themselves after 10 years. I wonder who lobbied for these customer-friendly changes.
Ironically even if you have hard wired detectors they also want the new lithium ones. I argued for some time on that and told them the CO2 was not hard wired (and it was).
They also require ones (at least in bedrooms) to be tied together.
I feel wifi versions are hilarious. If the power goes off or if there is a fire and your wifi goes off I guess it becomes useless if you don't have full battery backup in the alert chain.
I just stick w/ old school vista 20 panel and hardwired.
Stupid state, I would check if you can tie these together--else they probably run afoul of NYS latest regs.
I'm not against noname Chinese companies but this is a highly regulated industry, and the last thing is I want the state or worse the insurance company to come up w/ some reason not to pay out so I would check w/ your local jurisdiction first before buying this stuff.
Last edited by elefante72 October 16, 2023 at 02:52 PM.
The newer first alert smoke detectors and CO detectors are total junk. Bought a whole bunch about 2 years ago, and half of them don't even work anymore.
I just.tossed my last one over the weekend. False armed and would not shut off so I had to deactivate it. The other two were false alarming at night intermittently. I bit the bullet and got the nest ones. At least I can turn it off with an app.
NYS does and while they do not do yearly inspections every time you get work done or do a permit (I mean legally) they will require you for costly upgrades. I think a year or two ago they now require lithium versions that kill themselves after 10 years. I wonder who lobbied for these customer-friendly changes.
Ironically even if you have hard wired detectors they also want the new lithium ones. I argued for some time on that and told them the CO2 was not hard wired (and it was).
They also require ones (at least in bedrooms) to be tied together.
I feel wifi versions are hilarious. If the power goes off or if there is a fire and your wifi goes off I guess it becomes useless if you don't have full battery backup in the alert chain.
I just stick w/ old school vista 20 panel and hardwired.
Stupid state, I would check if you can tie these together--else they probably run afoul of NYS latest regs.
I'm not against noname Chinese companies but this is a highly regulated industry, and the last thing is I want the state or worse the insurance company to come up w/ some reason not to pay out so I would check w/ your local jurisdiction first before buying this stuff.
"I feel wifi versions are hilarious. If the power goes off or if there is a fire and your wifi goes off I guess it becomes useless if you don't have full battery backup in the alert "
That is true as well for tens of million of hardwired smoke detectors that don't have battery back up. Power goes out you do get a chirp or two which "might" wake people up, but thats it. This wifi smoke detector is battery operated. It will still have an alarm in case of a fire and if there's no power it just won't be able to push the notification out if you are not home. Hardly worthless.
Last edited by DAC21 October 16, 2023 at 05:54 PM.
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Worst case you could create an instance in Home Assistant, then pair Home Assistant with Google Home. But this solution is combersome and requires maintenance and $.
I used to have a very complicated Home Assistant setup and have considered picking up a Hubitat.
Google has been improving their automation capability lately, so I'm trying to see how far I can get with native solutions.
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Here's one clear explanation of the issue: structuretech.com/smoke-alarms-deadly-differences/ (This has a few links to more info at the end of the article.)
https://structuretech.c
http://www.consumerrep
You could also have mostly photoelectric, but put one or two ionization (or dual) alarms in places where they're not likely to cause nuisance alarms (moisture/smoke in kitchen, and bathroom moisture (in a hallway near the bathroom) can cause the nuisance alarms). The problem with this is that if you have hard-wired alarms, you need to have all the same alarms connected to that system, because having different ones connected in the system can cause their own problems (including nuisance alarms). A way around this is to put photoelectric-only in the system, but buy a battery operated ionization to have outside the system.
Manufacturers are supposed to be developing better detectors that reduce nuisance alarms (was first supposed to be implemented in 2019, but that got delayed; as I understand it, that will involve a different technology so these (when available) will not be labeled as photoelectric and/or ionization). Underwriters Limited developed a new standard, but implementation of that has be postponed several times already. There was a Kidde that initially claimed to meet this newest UL 217 standard (the new standard is UL 217, 8th edition; currently, smoke alarms being sold must meet the 7th edition), but Kidde stopped making that claim, and has no detectors currently that meet it. It seems manufacturers are struggling to meet this standard. (There is a less common manufacturer or two that claimed to meet the newer standard but when I looked at reviews a while ago, I wasn't convinced they were a quality product). Brief overview of 8th edition standard: http://incompliancemag
===
I personally don't like the ones with the (supposedly) 10 year lithium battery - if you look at reviews, those batteries fail quite often in under 10 years - and I had this happen with some I purchased. I guess in some places, you can't buy anything else legally, but I'm luckily not in one of those places. Keep your receipt and the box if you buy these, and read the warranty, then try to make a warranty claim if the batter/detector fails.
As a note, manufacturers tend to be very misleading about which edition of the UL 217 standard they meet - often, they just say they meet UL 217 (but not which edition). To make that claim, they need to meet the standard in effect at time of manufacture, but smoke detectors that meet earlier standards can continue to be sold after the current standard is updated, so pay attention to the date of manufacture.
If you live in an area with Menards, they sell a very reasonably priced Kidde photoelectric-only smoke alarm, a little under $15. Ionization alarms tend to be cheaper than photoelectric or dual.
I personally purchase CO detectors as separate items. The digital Nighthawk, that plugs in AND operates with a battery, is my choice. It keeps track of any CO levels over 10 PPM - you can press the peak level button to see that (and reset it to zero. It won't alarm unless the level goes over 50 PPM for a certain amount of time. If you check the peak level every once in a while you may detect a problem problem that isn't yet serious enough to cause an alarm (note that natural gas stoves if not working properly or if they're not vented can generate these lower levels of CO in your house - that can cause health issues and mild headaches, especially for more sensitive or older people or people with respiratory issues.).
Unfortunately, even Underwriter Limited doesn't have really clear info about the new standard and when it's now supposed to be implemented easily found on its website - here are a few links:
ww.ul.com/news/smoke-alarms-and-smoke-detectors-new-and-revised-requirements
http://www.ul.com/news/news-brief...ufactur
Amazon prices on smoke detectors & CO detectors may go down around Black Friday/cyber monday sales.
Note that you should carefully vacuum around smoke and CO detectors at least a few times annually - maybe even monthly. Dust and bugs and spider webs can all lead to nuisance alarms or failure.
Keep your receipt and info about the warranty - you can make a warranty claim if they fail before they're supposed to. If date of manufacturer is stamped on them (I believe that is now required), you can probably make a warranty claim even if you don't have proof of when you purchased it - but they'll probably start counting the time from date of manufacture rather than date of purchase. You'll likely get a replacement unit, not money refunded.
==
In case anyone has one of these (not-so-common) brands: CPSC Warns Consumers to Immediately Stop Using GLBSUNION and CUZMAK Digital Display Carbon Monoxide Detectors (does not detect CO) - were sold on Amazon; recall from March 2023 http://www.cpsc.gov/Newsroom/News...Amazon-com
64 Comments
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Limited-time deal: First Alert Battery Powered Z-Wave Smoke Detector & Carbon Monoxide Alarm, Works with Ring Alarm Base Station, 2nd Generation https://a.co/d/6lXsP50
Limited-time deal: First Alert Battery Powered Z-Wave Smoke Detector & Carbon Monoxide Alarm, Works with Ring Alarm Base Station, 2nd Generation https://a.co/d/6lXsP50
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Ironically even if you have hard wired detectors they also want the new lithium ones. I argued for some time on that and told them the CO2 was not hard wired (and it was).
They also require ones (at least in bedrooms) to be tied together.
I feel wifi versions are hilarious. If the power goes off or if there is a fire and your wifi goes off I guess it becomes useless if you don't have full battery backup in the alert chain.
I just stick w/ old school vista 20 panel and hardwired.
Stupid state, I would check if you can tie these together--else they probably run afoul of NYS latest regs.
I'm not against noname Chinese companies but this is a highly regulated industry, and the last thing is I want the state or worse the insurance company to come up w/ some reason not to pay out so I would check w/ your local jurisdiction first before buying this stuff.
Ironically even if you have hard wired detectors they also want the new lithium ones. I argued for some time on that and told them the CO2 was not hard wired (and it was).
They also require ones (at least in bedrooms) to be tied together.
I feel wifi versions are hilarious. If the power goes off or if there is a fire and your wifi goes off I guess it becomes useless if you don't have full battery backup in the alert chain.
I just stick w/ old school vista 20 panel and hardwired.
Stupid state, I would check if you can tie these together--else they probably run afoul of NYS latest regs.
I'm not against noname Chinese companies but this is a highly regulated industry, and the last thing is I want the state or worse the insurance company to come up w/ some reason not to pay out so I would check w/ your local jurisdiction first before buying this stuff.
That is true as well for tens of million of hardwired smoke detectors that don't have battery back up. Power goes out you do get a chirp or two which "might" wake people up, but thats it. This wifi smoke detector is battery operated. It will still have an alarm in case of a fire and if there's no power it just won't be able to push the notification out if you are not home. Hardly worthless.
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Google has been improving their automation capability lately, so I'm trying to see how far I can get with native solutions.
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