expiredJuJuFrankenbean | Staff posted Dec 29, 2023 10:49 PM
Item 1 of 4
Item 1 of 4
expiredJuJuFrankenbean | Staff posted Dec 29, 2023 10:49 PM
Rogue RA-090 Dreadnought Guitar: Acoustic $60, Acoustic-Electric (Natural)
& More + Free Shipping$80
$160
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There is a lot of good info mixed with half-truth or zero-truth above. Here are some hints for making an acoustic guitar play better. Acoustics are harder to set up than electrics, so be warned.
Step 1: Check neck relief. If you just brought the guitar inside, wait a day for it to acclimate to your room temperature and humidity. Then tune the guitar up to the correct pitch. Push down the lowest string just above the 1st fret and just below the last fret. There should be a tiny gap between the string and the frets in the middle, the thickness of a business card or less. Then try it with the highest string. The gap should be the same. If it isn't, your guitar has a twisted neck and you should return it, because you'll never get it to play right.
If the gap is too high, you need to tighten the truss rod. If there is no gap, you need to loosen the truss rod. Only go 1/8 of a turn at a time when adjusting truss rods. No more! Check after each 1/8 turn. Once you get it about right, let the guitar sit overnight and check again.
The truss rod is an Allen key located inside the sound hole, at the end of the neck. If the guitar comes with an Allen key, that's what it's for.
Once you've done that, then you can move on to:
Step 2: Adjust action.
Likely the strings will be way off the fretboard when you get the truss rod right, so you need to lower the action. To do this, first figure out about how much lower you think you can get it. Then, you have to take off the strings (don't take them out of the bridge, just take them out of the tuners at the top) and remove the little white plastic bar that goes under them. Then you can either file down the bottom of the plastic piece, or file deeper grooves in the top. You should start by filing down the bottom, because you need really small files to do the grooves in the top. Remember, you'll need higher action on the bass strings than the treble strings, so you'll probably take more off the treble side than the bass side.
Put the piece back in and the strings back on, tune to pitch, and check the action. If it's still too high, take off a bit more. Don't take off too much, because then you most likely have to get a new piece and start over. (You can often fudge it with a little piece of paper or cardboard in the bottom, but the connection won't be as solid and the guitar might not sound as good.)
Step 3: Adjust the nut. You do that basically the same way you do the bridge, except it's easier because you don't have to take the strings all the way off. You can just tune them slack until you can slide the nut out. What you want is for the strings to be as close to the first fret as you can get them without buzzing on the first fret. Take material off the bottom of the nut, then slide it back in, tune the strings back up, and check. Again, if you go too far you'll have to start over with a new nut or wedge paper underneath, which isn't as solid.
If you're going to all this trouble, you should probably spend under $10 first, and buy a real bone bridge saddle and nut on ebay. They're much easier to file on than plastic, and then you have the original plastic ones as a backup. Measure yours with a millimeter ruler first to make sure you're buying the right size.
Happy picking!
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Boveda not only let out moisture but absorb it too…. Well worth the 5 or 10 bucks …trust me.
They have a cutaway and a smaller body, which makes them much easier to hold and play, especially for younger players or people with short arms.
They still sound really nice, especially if you're using the electric pickup. It's often arguable whether the concert or dreadnought sounds better.
https://www.guitarcente
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank IndigoKnob7008
There is a lot of good info mixed with half-truth or zero-truth above. Here are some hints for making an acoustic guitar play better. Acoustics are harder to set up than electrics, so be warned.
Step 1: Check neck relief. If you just brought the guitar inside, wait a day for it to acclimate to your room temperature and humidity. Then tune the guitar up to the correct pitch. Push down the lowest string just above the 1st fret and just below the last fret. There should be a tiny gap between the string and the frets in the middle, the thickness of a business card or less. Then try it with the highest string. The gap should be the same. If it isn't, your guitar has a twisted neck and you should return it, because you'll never get it to play right.
If the gap is too high, you need to tighten the truss rod. If there is no gap, you need to loosen the truss rod. Only go 1/8 of a turn at a time when adjusting truss rods. No more! Check after each 1/8 turn. Once you get it about right, let the guitar sit overnight and check again.
The truss rod is an Allen key located inside the sound hole, at the end of the neck. If the guitar comes with an Allen key, that's what it's for.
Once you've done that, then you can move on to:
Step 2: Adjust action.
Likely the strings will be way off the fretboard when you get the truss rod right, so you need to lower the action. To do this, first figure out about how much lower you think you can get it. Then, you have to take off the strings (don't take them out of the bridge, just take them out of the tuners at the top) and remove the little white plastic bar that goes under them. Then you can either file down the bottom of the plastic piece, or file deeper grooves in the top. You should start by filing down the bottom, because you need really small files to do the grooves in the top. Remember, you'll need higher action on the bass strings than the treble strings, so you'll probably take more off the treble side than the bass side.
Put the piece back in and the strings back on, tune to pitch, and check the action. If it's still too high, take off a bit more. Don't take off too much, because then you most likely have to get a new piece and start over. (You can often fudge it with a little piece of paper or cardboard in the bottom, but the connection won't be as solid and the guitar might not sound as good.)
Step 3: Adjust the nut. You do that basically the same way you do the bridge, except it's easier because you don't have to take the strings all the way off. You can just tune them slack until you can slide the nut out. What you want is for the strings to be as close to the first fret as you can get them without buzzing on the first fret. Take material off the bottom of the nut, then slide it back in, tune the strings back up, and check. Again, if you go too far you'll have to start over with a new nut or wedge paper underneath, which isn't as solid.
If you're going to all this trouble, you should probably spend under $10 first, and buy a real bone bridge saddle and nut on ebay. They're much easier to file on than plastic, and then you have the original plastic ones as a backup. Measure yours with a millimeter ruler first to make sure you're buying the right size.
Happy picking!
Welcome any other suggestions/thoughts about how to get started/tuning etc. TIA!
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There is a lot of good info mixed with half-truth or zero-truth above. Here are some hints for making an acoustic guitar play better. Acoustics are harder to set up than electrics, so be warned.
Step 1: Check neck relief. If you just brought the guitar inside, wait a day for it to acclimate to your room temperature and humidity. Then tune the guitar up to the correct pitch. Push down the lowest string just above the 1st fret and just below the last fret. There should be a tiny gap between the string and the frets in the middle, the thickness of a business card or less. Then try it with the highest string. The gap should be the same. If it isn't, your guitar has a twisted neck and you should return it, because you'll never get it to play right.
If the gap is too high, you need to tighten the truss rod. If there is no gap, you need to loosen the truss rod. Only go 1/8 of a turn at a time when adjusting truss rods. No more! Check after each 1/8 turn. Once you get it about right, let the guitar sit overnight and check again.
The truss rod is an Allen key located inside the sound hole, at the end of the neck. If the guitar comes with an Allen key, that's what it's for.
Once you've done that, then you can move on to:
Step 2: Adjust action.
Likely the strings will be way off the fretboard when you get the truss rod right, so you need to lower the action. To do this, first figure out about how much lower you think you can get it. Then, you have to take off the strings (don't take them out of the bridge, just take them out of the tuners at the top) and remove the little white plastic bar that goes under them. Then you can either file down the bottom of the plastic piece, or file deeper grooves in the top. You should start by filing down the bottom, because you need really small files to do the grooves in the top. Remember, you'll need higher action on the bass strings than the treble strings, so you'll probably take more off the treble side than the bass side.
Put the piece back in and the strings back on, tune to pitch, and check the action. If it's still too high, take off a bit more. Don't take off too much, because then you most likely have to get a new piece and start over. (You can often fudge it with a little piece of paper or cardboard in the bottom, but the connection won't be as solid and the guitar might not sound as good.)
Step 3: Adjust the nut. You do that basically the same way you do the bridge, except it's easier because you don't have to take the strings all the way off. You can just tune them slack until you can slide the nut out. What you want is for the strings to be as close to the first fret as you can get them without buzzing on the first fret. Take material off the bottom of the nut, then slide it back in, tune the strings back up, and check. Again, if you go too far you'll have to start over with a new nut or wedge paper underneath, which isn't as solid.
If you're going to all this trouble, you should probably spend under $10 first, and buy a real bone bridge saddle and nut on ebay. They're much easier to file on than plastic, and then you have the original plastic ones as a backup. Measure yours with a millimeter ruler first to make sure you're buying the right size.
Happy picking!
Related question if you have time to respond. I bought my daughter a $50 acoustic on sale from Adorama (Boroughs B20ASB) because the handful of reviews were positive and I found the deal here on Slickdeals. We returned it because she said it had dead frets. The replacement has the same issue. I don't know the first thing about guitars but she has been playing an electric for a couple of years and was convinced. To somebody like you who obviously knows guitars, does this sound like a new guitar issue that can be addressed? I can only return for store credit, so would like to see if it can be fixed. Otherwise I will end up getting her something from another store because Adorama don't have any other budget options. Thanks for your help!
Be careful if considering lowering the saddle. I modified a Dremmel and routed a tiny amount off the saddle slot in the bridge to give better contact when the saddle was seated (advanced mod), which helped, but if you sand the base of the saddle itself too much, you'll reduce the down-force. As the sound is passed from the strings into the acoustic box of the guitar via the saddle, making the saddle lower can reduce the quality of the sound. They are cheap and replaceable though so it might be worth experimenting as it can make it easier to play too.
I just purchased this RA90 deal to see if it's as good as the RD80. It's crazy it can be sold this cheap. The shipping alone should be $30!
Related question if you have time to respond. I bought my daughter a $50 acoustic on sale from Adorama (Boroughs B20ASB) because the handful of reviews were positive and I found the deal here on Slickdeals. We returned it because she said it had dead frets. The replacement has the same issue. I don't know the first thing about guitars but she has been playing an electric for a couple of years and was convinced. To somebody like you who obviously knows guitars, does this sound like a new guitar issue that can be addressed? I can only return for store credit, so would like to see if it can be fixed. Otherwise I will end up getting her something from another store because Adorama don't have any other budget options. Thanks for your help!
The lower you get the strings, the less high a fret has to be to cause this.
A $50 acoustic guitar is not going to have perfectly even frets. The frets may be pressed into the neck by machine, but it requires hand labor to check whether they're even and fix them if they're not.
It's possible to do this yourself, but the tools will cost as much as the $50 guitar. It's possible to pay a luthier to level the frets, but that'll cost well over $100.
If she's already a guitarist, you're going to have to spend a bit more to get a guitar on her level. Plan on spending about the same amount you spent on her electric, which will put her at a similar quality level.
The lower you get the strings, the less high a fret has to be to cause this.
A $50 acoustic guitar is not going to have perfectly even frets. The frets may be pressed into the neck by machine, but it requires hand labor to check whether they're even and fix them if they're not.
It's possible to do this yourself, but the tools will cost as much as the $50 guitar. It's possible to pay a luthier to level the frets, but that'll cost well over $100.
If she's already a guitarist, you're going to have to spend a bit more to get a guitar on her level. Plan on spending about the same amount you spent on her electric, which will put her at a similar quality level.
Btw, those Rogues are on sale for another 7 hours or so, and punch well above their weight.
I don't know how big your daughter is, but a concert-size instrument with a cutaway will be much closer to the size of an electric, at the price of being slightly quieter acoustically.
The built-in tuner on the acoustic-electric is also very useful.
https://www.guitarcente
However, if her electric cost $250+, you might consider spending more to keep the acoustic at a similar level. This is a great deal, and even better open box:
https://www.guitarcente
Btw, those Rogues are on sale for another 7 hours or so, and punch well above their weight.
I don't know how big your daughter is, but a concert-size instrument with a cutaway will be much closer to the size of an electric, at the price of being slightly quieter acoustically.
The built-in tuner on the acoustic-electric is also very useful.
https://www.guitarcenter.com/Rogu...0321978.gc [guitarcenter.com]
However, if her electric cost $250+, you might consider spending more to keep the acoustic at a similar level. This is a great deal, and even better open box:
https://www.guitarcenter.com/DAng...0366303.gc [guitarcenter.com]
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