Amazon has
3-Pack 5-Quart Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil on sale for
$71.35.
Shipping is free.
- Note: Usually ships within 2 to 5 weeks
Thanks to Community Member
Zdhow for sharing this deal.
About this product:
- Full synthetic 0W-20 engine oil with PurePlus Technology that is race trusted for extreme engine performance and is made with natural gas
- Warranty coverage of up to 15 years or 500,000 miles, whichever comes first
- Provides better wear protection from friction (based on Sequence IVA wear test using SAE 5W-30)
- Far exceeds the most stringent car manufacturer requirements for cleanliness and protection (based on ILSAC GF-6)
- Helps protect engines from loss of power and provides better fuel economy (based on the latest industry standard)
- Delivers unsurpassed sludge protection to help keep high-performance and luxury car engines as close as possible to factory clean (based on Sequence VH Sludge Test using SAE 5W-20)
- Keeps pistons dramatically cleaner than required by the toughest industry standards (based on ILSAC GF-6 and Sequence IIIH piston deposit test using SAE 5W-30)
- Formulated to provide faster low-temperature oil flow and protection in extreme heat
- Ergonomic design for easy handling and pouring
- Suitable for all car, SUV, light van, truck gasoline, and turbocharged engines; under all driving conditions
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So let me share a tiny bit of info
Base oil
Pennzoil uses gas-to-liquid (GTL) base oil which is basically a superior Group III+ engine oil. It runs a little cleaner, has a lower volatility (less burn off) and better cold temp properties.
Additives - engine oils contain anywhere from 8-16% additive to make them function
a Pennzoil ultra, M1, Castrol EDGE type will use the larger additive package (look for them to meet other specs like ACEA, MB, VW, etc.) these larger packages have more dispersants for holding sludge and soot, they have more antioxidants to help the oil last longer (we've tested out to 15k easily in nyc taxis). You're basic synthetic takes the cheapest package which I used to make by putting in the bare minimum of additives needed to meet API and dexos. That means not a cent more of cost than whatever the min spec says. So these packages treat at 7.5, maybe 8.5% of the formula where the premium product packs are usually over 13%. You need to have min treat rates when a Costco or Walmart comes to you with a bid and you need to offer the lowest cost product to them or you don't get the business.
Then there is the Viscosity Modifier.
This makes the oil work as a XW-XX oil so you get a 0W-20 by adding a polymer to it. That polymer can be an expensive one such as a star polymer which doesn't shear down (drop in vis as it gets used) and more importantly as it degrades, it doesn't leave as much deposits in your engines (mainly piston deposits). The cheap additive packs are paired with OCP as it is well cheap, they work fine but they are "dirty" polymers and tend to shear down pretty quickly.
That was my quick motor oil 101 for ya =)
BTW dirty pistons skirts and sticky rings will cause more cylinder wear which means more blowby and loss of power, fuel economy. Not much, but a few percent and it does tend to get progessively worse as it builds. More details if you want to ask, but we tested in real engines (API engine tests) to prove their sludge, deposit, wear, properties.
M1 still uses PAO in their formulas, Kirkland is Group III
Additive packages is much better in a M1 (13-16% vs. maybe 8-9% in the kirkland)
VM used is a cleaner and more shear stable star polymer vs. a cheap and dirty OCP
What does all that mean to regular people... M1, Pennzoil, Castrol all run cleaner, lasts longer, and has more additives to reduce wear, sludge, deposits etc.
Those same brands sell a similar low end synthetic oil like Kirkland though it's call Mobil Full Synthetic, those have a cheap and cheerful formula that just barely meets min specs.
Yes I know project 1 cooked the oil in a teapot and froze it but I used to make these products and run them in actual engine tests (SWRI and Intertek) and saw the difference in deposits, sludge, wear on real engine tests like the IIIG, IVA, and VG
No, I don't think kirkland will hurt your car and should easily last 5k maybe even 10k but it will definitely leave more deposits on your piston skirts, more crud in your rings, and more wear on your camshafts than some higher tier engine oil like Pennzoil or Mobil 1.
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Now what about this specific product: is it substantially better than regular synthetic oil so that to extend oil change intervals even further? Has there been research made to quantify how much longer the intervals realistically can be extended?
Now what about this specific product: is it substantially better than regular synthetic oil so that to extend oil change intervals even further? Has there been research made to quantify how much longer the intervals realistically can be extended?
Check this thread out. There is a video in the first post explaining everything you just asked.
https://imgur.com/a/XPxlmQ1
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Archimedes001
M1 still uses PAO in their formulas, Kirkland is Group III
Additive packages is much better in a M1 (13-16% vs. maybe 8-9% in the kirkland)
VM used is a cleaner and more shear stable star polymer vs. a cheap and dirty OCP
What does all that mean to regular people... M1, Pennzoil, Castrol all run cleaner, lasts longer, and has more additives to reduce wear, sludge, deposits etc.
Those same brands sell a similar low end synthetic oil like Kirkland though it's call Mobil Full Synthetic, those have a cheap and cheerful formula that just barely meets min specs.
Yes I know project 1 cooked the oil in a teapot and froze it but I used to make these products and run them in actual engine tests (SWRI and Intertek) and saw the difference in deposits, sludge, wear on real engine tests like the IIIG, IVA, and VG
No, I don't think kirkland will hurt your car and should easily last 5k maybe even 10k but it will definitely leave more deposits on your piston skirts, more crud in your rings, and more wear on your camshafts than some higher tier engine oil like Pennzoil or Mobil 1.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Archimedes001
Now what about this specific product: is it substantially better than regular synthetic oil so that to extend oil change intervals even further? Has there been research made to quantify how much longer the intervals realistically can be extended?
So let me share a tiny bit of info
Base oil
Pennzoil uses gas-to-liquid (GTL) base oil which is basically a superior Group III+ engine oil. It runs a little cleaner, has a lower volatility (less burn off) and better cold temp properties.
Additives - engine oils contain anywhere from 8-16% additive to make them function
a Pennzoil ultra, M1, Castrol EDGE type will use the larger additive package (look for them to meet other specs like ACEA, MB, VW, etc.) these larger packages have more dispersants for holding sludge and soot, they have more antioxidants to help the oil last longer (we've tested out to 15k easily in nyc taxis). You're basic synthetic takes the cheapest package which I used to make by putting in the bare minimum of additives needed to meet API and dexos. That means not a cent more of cost than whatever the min spec says. So these packages treat at 7.5, maybe 8.5% of the formula where the premium product packs are usually over 13%. You need to have min treat rates when a Costco or Walmart comes to you with a bid and you need to offer the lowest cost product to them or you don't get the business.
Then there is the Viscosity Modifier.
This makes the oil work as a XW-XX oil so you get a 0W-20 by adding a polymer to it. That polymer can be an expensive one such as a star polymer which doesn't shear down (drop in vis as it gets used) and more importantly as it degrades, it doesn't leave as much deposits in your engines (mainly piston deposits). The cheap additive packs are paired with OCP as it is well cheap, they work fine but they are "dirty" polymers and tend to shear down pretty quickly.
That was my quick motor oil 101 for ya =)
BTW dirty pistons skirts and sticky rings will cause more cylinder wear which means more blowby and loss of power, fuel economy. Not much, but a few percent and it does tend to get progessively worse as it builds. More details if you want to ask, but we tested in real engines (API engine tests) to prove their sludge, deposit, wear, properties.
So let me share a tiny bit of info
Base oil
Pennzoil uses gas-to-liquid (GTL) base oil which is basically a superior Group III+ engine oil. It runs a little cleaner, has a lower volatility (less burn off) and better cold temp properties.
Additives - engine oils contain anywhere from 8-16% additive to make them function
a Pennzoil ultra, M1, Castrol EDGE type will use the larger additive package (look for them to meet other specs like ACEA, MB, VW, etc.) these larger packages have more dispersants for holding sludge and soot, they have more antioxidants to help the oil last longer (we've tested out to 15k easily in nyc taxis). You're basic synthetic takes the cheapest package which I used to make by putting in the bare minimum of additives needed to meet API and dexos. That means not a cent more of cost than whatever the min spec says. So these packages treat at 7.5, maybe 8.5% of the formula where the premium product packs are usually over 13%. You need to have min treat rates when a Costco or Walmart comes to you with a bid and you need to offer the lowest cost product to them or you don't get the business.
Then there is the Viscosity Modifier.
This makes the oil work as a XW-XX oil so you get a 0W-20 by adding a polymer to it. That polymer can be an expensive one such as a star polymer which doesn't shear down (drop in vis as it gets used) and more importantly as it degrades, it doesn't leave as much deposits in your engines (mainly piston deposits). The cheap additive packs are paired with OCP as it is well cheap, they work fine but they are "dirty" polymers and tend to shear down pretty quickly.
That was my quick motor oil 101 for ya =)
BTW dirty pistons skirts and sticky rings will cause more cylinder wear which means more blowby and loss of power, fuel economy. Not much, but a few percent and it does tend to get progessively worse as it builds. More details if you want to ask, but we tested in real engines (API engine tests) to prove their sludge, deposit, wear, properties.
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As for my opinion on the benefits of a top tier oil (M1, Ultra, EDGE, etc.) I think it is for someone like me that keeps their gas engine only cars for 100k+ miles because the less deposits in the engine mean I'll maintain my fuel economy/power/oil consumption a lot longer into the life of the car than using the cheaper ones. It's also for people with turbo cars and high HP cars as the turbo bearings are highly susceptible to oil deposits and if those oil passageways clog... you have to replace the turbo.
Now for people who lease cars or trade them in every 3-5 years... I mean you can get away with a cheap oil change every 10k and it should still be fine to trade in.
My reason for using the premium stuff even with 5k drains is I like knowing it has a cleaner VM and more dispersants/AO in it as I'm kind of a gear head that's also getting older so I like not having to repair / replace things anymore... it's great to get in and start driving without the oh crap I need to replace this soon. My 1 car is 11 years 110k miles, runs great and my 5 year old truck of course runs well but I plan to keep that thing possibly till the end.
In your case though, I'd probably say no need for it but if they're on sale the name brand stuff always throws in a little more additive than the bargain basement stuff like Kirkland/Supertech. Something like a GTX or Valvoline and just change it once a year. If you want to save some money you can do it yourself pretty easily.
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