Amazon has
3-Pack 5-Quart Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil on sale for
$71.35.
Shipping is free.
- Note: Usually ships within 2 to 5 weeks
Thanks to Community Member
Zdhow for sharing this deal.
About this product:
- Full synthetic 0W-20 engine oil with PurePlus Technology that is race trusted for extreme engine performance and is made with natural gas
- Warranty coverage of up to 15 years or 500,000 miles, whichever comes first
- Provides better wear protection from friction (based on Sequence IVA wear test using SAE 5W-30)
- Far exceeds the most stringent car manufacturer requirements for cleanliness and protection (based on ILSAC GF-6)
- Helps protect engines from loss of power and provides better fuel economy (based on the latest industry standard)
- Delivers unsurpassed sludge protection to help keep high-performance and luxury car engines as close as possible to factory clean (based on Sequence VH Sludge Test using SAE 5W-20)
- Keeps pistons dramatically cleaner than required by the toughest industry standards (based on ILSAC GF-6 and Sequence IIIH piston deposit test using SAE 5W-30)
- Formulated to provide faster low-temperature oil flow and protection in extreme heat
- Ergonomic design for easy handling and pouring
- Suitable for all car, SUV, light van, truck gasoline, and turbocharged engines; under all driving conditions
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Top Comments
So let me share a tiny bit of info
Base oil
Pennzoil uses gas-to-liquid (GTL) base oil which is basically a superior Group III+ engine oil. It runs a little cleaner, has a lower volatility (less burn off) and better cold temp properties.
Additives - engine oils contain anywhere from 8-16% additive to make them function
a Pennzoil ultra, M1, Castrol EDGE type will use the larger additive package (look for them to meet other specs like ACEA, MB, VW, etc.) these larger packages have more dispersants for holding sludge and soot, they have more antioxidants to help the oil last longer (we've tested out to 15k easily in nyc taxis). You're basic synthetic takes the cheapest package which I used to make by putting in the bare minimum of additives needed to meet API and dexos. That means not a cent more of cost than whatever the min spec says. So these packages treat at 7.5, maybe 8.5% of the formula where the premium product packs are usually over 13%. You need to have min treat rates when a Costco or Walmart comes to you with a bid and you need to offer the lowest cost product to them or you don't get the business.
Then there is the Viscosity Modifier.
This makes the oil work as a XW-XX oil so you get a 0W-20 by adding a polymer to it. That polymer can be an expensive one such as a star polymer which doesn't shear down (drop in vis as it gets used) and more importantly as it degrades, it doesn't leave as much deposits in your engines (mainly piston deposits). The cheap additive packs are paired with OCP as it is well cheap, they work fine but they are "dirty" polymers and tend to shear down pretty quickly.
That was my quick motor oil 101 for ya =)
BTW dirty pistons skirts and sticky rings will cause more cylinder wear which means more blowby and loss of power, fuel economy. Not much, but a few percent and it does tend to get progessively worse as it builds. More details if you want to ask, but we tested in real engines (API engine tests) to prove their sludge, deposit, wear, properties.
M1 still uses PAO in their formulas, Kirkland is Group III
Additive packages is much better in a M1 (13-16% vs. maybe 8-9% in the kirkland)
VM used is a cleaner and more shear stable star polymer vs. a cheap and dirty OCP
What does all that mean to regular people... M1, Pennzoil, Castrol all run cleaner, lasts longer, and has more additives to reduce wear, sludge, deposits etc.
Those same brands sell a similar low end synthetic oil like Kirkland though it's call Mobil Full Synthetic, those have a cheap and cheerful formula that just barely meets min specs.
Yes I know project 1 cooked the oil in a teapot and froze it but I used to make these products and run them in actual engine tests (SWRI and Intertek) and saw the difference in deposits, sludge, wear on real engine tests like the IIIG, IVA, and VG
No, I don't think kirkland will hurt your car and should easily last 5k maybe even 10k but it will definitely leave more deposits on your piston skirts, more crud in your rings, and more wear on your camshafts than some higher tier engine oil like Pennzoil or Mobil 1.
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Why 5K OCI?
1. Oil is cheap. I never pay more than $1/qt.
2. Filter capability of many oil filters degrade after 7K miles. All oil filters degrade with use. That's the logic behind the bypass valve in the filter.
3. 40% stop and go traffic (severe driving condition).
4. Keep engine clean (light yellow discoloration under the valve cover).
New oil is always better than 9K miles old oil because the oil filter cannot trap all the contaminants. Abrasive contaminants act as sandpaper. Frequent oil change removes water, which will corrode metal if the engine does not see extended highway driving (boil off the water). You can run the engine continuously for 10K miles, and the oil will still be in excellent condition. Frequent stop/go, idling, and cold start = several driving condition.
Prior to 2000, excessive oil consumption (1qt/1K miles) was never an issue under 200K miles. The predominant oil at that time was conventional 10W-40 or 5W30 with 3K to 7.5K oil change interval.
Modern engines use +1000 psi direct injection (higher pressure in the combustion chamber) and low-friction oil control piston ring to meet US Corporate Average Fuel Economy number. If this ring does not move freely, then you will wear out the cylinder bore (oil burning engine). The use of higher viscosity oil can help reduce wear at the expense of fuel mileage. Many auto manufacturers recommend higher viscosity oil for the same engine sold outside the US.
A well designed engine with a fully functional oil filter will have adequate oil pressure and mass flow rate within a few seconds after start. If I use the best synthetic motor oil from day one, then the engine may burn 1/8 quart and achieve +/- 3 psi wet/dry compression at 300K miles. I would not call that money well spent. Like everything else in the world, to get that last 5% of benefit will cost 2-3x more $.
Maximum stress on the engine occurs when the car takes off from a stop (Newton's 1st law of motion). That's why many auto transmissions have early failure between 1st and 2nd gear. A hybrid uses the electric motor (instant full torque) to take off from a stop before the CVT kicks in. Problem with this strategy is water byproduct inside the internal combustion engine. Water will come out of the exhaust during cold start. The gas engine may run 5% of the time...insufficient to remove water from the engine unless you run in 100% electric mode or change oil often.
Bottom line is there is less safely margin if you do +10K oil change unless 99% of the miles are done at highway speed.
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