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Bosch Premium HEPA Cabin Passenger Compartment Air Filter for Select Vehicles Expired
$6.20
$11.75
w/ Subscribe & Save
Amazon has Bosch Premium HEPA Cabin Passenger Compartment Air Filter for Select Vehicles (6057C) on sale for $6.54 - 5% Subscribe & Save = $6.21. Shipping is free w/ Prime or on $35+ orders.
You may cancel Subscribe & Save anytime after your order ships
Thanks to community member phoinix for finding this deal
Note, product must be sold/shipped by Amazon
Product is compatible w/ select Chevrolet Captiva, Equinox, GMC Terrain, Hyundai Azera, Santa Fe Sport/XL, Sonata, Kia Cadenza, Optima, Sedona, Saturn Vue.
Vehicle trim level may affect fitment, verify specific vehicle fitment with Amazon Confirm Fit checker
You may cancel Subscribe & Save anytime after your order ships
Thanks to community member phoinix for finding this deal
Note, product must be sold/shipped by Amazon
Product is compatible w/ select Chevrolet Captiva, Equinox, GMC Terrain, Hyundai Azera, Santa Fe Sport/XL, Sonata, Kia Cadenza, Optima, Sedona, Saturn Vue.
Vehicle trim level may affect fitment, verify specific vehicle fitment with Amazon Confirm Fit checker
Original Post
Written by
Edited February 26, 2024
at 01:07 AM
Amazon [amazon.com] has BOSCH 6057C HEPA Cabin Air Filter for $6.54 - 5% when you check out via Subscribe & Save = $6.21.
Shipping is free with Prime or on $35+ orders.
Price:
$3.88 lower (38% savings) than the previous price of $10.09
Subscribe & Save:
*Save 10% when you receive 5 or more products in one auto-delivery to one address
Note: You may cancel Subscribe & Save any time after your order ships.
Customer reviews:
4.6⭐ / 3,496 global ratings
1K+ bought in past month
About this Item:
amazon.com/dp/B01JYSWZYC [amazon.com]
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Shipping is free with Prime or on $35+ orders.
Price:
$3.88 lower (38% savings) than the previous price of $10.09
Subscribe & Save:
| Tier | 5% | 10%* |
| Price | $6.21 | $5.89 |
Note: You may cancel Subscribe & Save any time after your order ships.
Customer reviews:
4.6⭐ / 3,496 global ratings
1K+ bought in past month
About this Item:
- Bosch HEPA Premium Cabin Air Filters are designed and tested to meet High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) standards based on ISO 29463-3:2011 and provide filtration efficiency of 99.97% at 0.3 microns
- This efficiency provides ultimate protection in trapping particulates that can enter your vehicle and provides the cleanest air possible for you and your family
- Melt-blown electrostatic layer and very dense media provide greater trapping capabilities; Additional static cotton layer added to the HEPA media provides higher capacity
- Structural ribs incorporated into design ensure filter integrity, increasing the stability of the filter for optimum performance over its lifetime
- Bosch HEPA cabin filters provide true clean air for enhanced respiratory health without an added chemical odor neutralizer; Cabin air filters should be replaced at least once every 12 months (or every 12K miles)
- Compatible with select vehicles (Note: vehicle trim level may affect fitment - verify specific vehicle fitment details with fit checker above): CHEVROLET: 2012-15 Captiva Sport, 2010-17 Equinox; GMC: 2010-17 Terrain; HYUNDAI: 2012-17 Azera
- HYUNDAI: 2013-18 Santa Fe, 2013-18 Santa Fe Sport, 2013,2017,2019 Santa Fe XL, 2011-15 Sonata; KIA: 2014-16 Cadenza, 2011-16 Optima, 2011-12,2014-20 Sedona; SATURN: 2008-10 Vue
amazon.com/dp/B01JYSWZYC [amazon.com]
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Give Feedback Model: BOSCH 6057C HEPA Cabin Air Filter - Compatible With Select Chevrolet Captiva, Equinox, GMC Terrain, Hyundai Azera, Santa Fe Sport/XL, Sonata, Kia Cadenza, Optima, Sedona, Saturn Vue (Pack of 1)
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Sort: Lowest to Highest | Last Updated 6/3/2024, 09:39 AM| Sold By | Sale Price |
|---|---|
 Amazon | $10.09 |
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The reason they don't work is because they reduce airflow. The air that does get through will be very clean, but you're cleaning less air per minute. With the correct filter you're perhaps filtering less effectively but the air is passing through the filter much more often. Each time reducing the particulate. So in the end you have more contamination in the air vs using a normal filter.
You're better off with more frequent passes especially in a vehicle that's not truly air sealed and has air pushing against it at a minimum of and having passengers inside exhaling viruses.
For reference, even with 180ug/m3+ (pretty sure it was well over 200 at one point) wildfire smoke, just 5 minutes in my Honda with the doors/windows closed was enough to get it down to <20/ug/m3 which is basically a slightly hazy day in any remotely urban-ish area (you wouldn't even think about it unless you look at the EPA air quality index). That's with just the standard Honda cabin air filter and having the fan running high in the car.
The engineers who made your vehicle figured out the most efficient filtering rate relative to airflow for the cabin and the air sealing in the vehicle. Unless you've done more math than they have, just leave it alone and just change your filter as the manual says.
Same goes for performance enhancing "additives" in your tank. It's mostly bullshit.
Depending on what vehicle you own, there could be a carbon cabin filter available for it. I just looked at Toyota's parts website and there is a regular and carbon odor cabin filter available from the factory for newer 4runners and Camrys.
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But then I saw the video for my car, and essentially you have to remove however many interior panels and it looks like the car was destroyed.
Maybe still not worth having the dealer do, as they might screw it up, but it may not necessarily be a quick install job.
I own two Hyundai's and the cabin air filters are behind the glove box. It takes 5 minutes to change the filter. Last time the dealer quoted me $50 to do it long before the pandemic. I bet thanks to inflation, they are charging $100. 😂
Also, I've changed the filters in a Chevy Traverse, and they are also behind the glove box. Most brands make them easy to change.
I'm in for one. This one fits my Santa Fe and I'm due for a change before spring allergies arrive.
Also, I've changed the filters in a Chevy Traverse, and they are also behind the glove box. Most brands make them easy to change.
I'm in for one. This one fits my Santa Fe and I'm due for a change before spring allergies arrive.
But then I saw the video for my car, and essentially you have to remove however many interior panels and it looks like the car was destroyed.
Maybe still not worth having the dealer do, as they might screw it up, but it may not necessarily be a quick install job.
Wow, that's awful. Usually been behind the glove compartment door in my cars.
https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/11/19/9048
https://researchreposit
https://www.ncbi.nlm.ni
https://www.sciencedire
I think "That Depends" is the proper answer. Filter makers can design cheaper and more expensive filters with worse and better filtration of particles.
While an average consumer isn't going to do an A/B test of a filter, they can buy top brands with the hope that these (Fram, Bosch, etc) won't go cheap.
You can see in the link above that the research does show that even an top OEM filter brand isn't performing at 100% across the range of particles from big to small. Just the nature of such "cheap" filters common in most cars - meaning that they're typically NOT complex, multi layer filters.
There is improvement to be had - especially in noxious fumes reduction, so carbon layer filters do have a positive effect vs oem non-carbon filters.
Naturally, there is the trade off between filtration and airflow, but for most, recirculation mode with any filter on high fan speed is going to push sufficient air volume thru the filter to reduce particle counts significantly.
This is simply the benefit of filtering such a small "room" - Won't matter much how much air flow the 3rd party filter blocks.
...
Now, can filters be improved?
Of course!
Just like the top end home air filters from iqair etc use multiple filter types, you can certainly add layers to filter out more with a diy filter.
Eg. If an electrostatic does better with small particulates than a carbon filter, then simply stack the two.
(I believe some top end luxury cars have complex filters that go with this idea.)
...
Hepa does NOT mean a filter blocks more airflow. You can design better filters that block more than a regular filter.
Older cars benefit from modem filters that can be better than oem designed over s decade ago.
...
Now, besides a filter?
A. Sharp Plasmacluster for the car.
Proven to kill covid, sars, flu, and cold viruses in the air in research studies. Filters DO NOT kill viruses, merely trap some. So while it's not healthy to spray Lysol continuously inside a car to kill viruses and bacteria, Plasmacluster can.
(Toyota has installed them in Lexus and some Toyota vehicles as OEM devices.)
The unit can also help break apart bad organics in the air.
B. Drive in recirculate mode.
If you're on the busy freeway, clearly nothing but smog, so definitely.
But if you're cruising the countryside, clean fresh air, so no need.
C. 3M n95 mask with carbon layer, ready to pickup at most Home Depots.
For the very sensitive, you might need the extra filtration. And especially those going thru fire areas where even recirculate isn't doing enough.
D. Buy a car with better filters and/or plasmacluster.
The reason they don't work is because they reduce airflow. The air that does get through will be very clean, but you're cleaning less air per minute. With the correct filter you're perhaps filtering less effectively but the air is passing through the filter much more often. Each time reducing the particulate. So in the end you have more contamination in the air vs using a normal filter.
You're better off with more frequent passes especially in a vehicle that's not truly air sealed and has air pushing against it at a minimum of [your driving speed mph] and having passengers inside exhaling viruses.
For reference, even with 180ug/m3+ (pretty sure it was well over 200 at one point) wildfire smoke, just 5 minutes in my Honda with the doors/windows closed was enough to get it down to <20/ug/m3 which is basically a slightly hazy day in any remotely urban-ish area (you wouldn't even think about it unless you look at the EPA air quality index). That's with just the standard Honda cabin air filter and having the fan running high in the car.
The engineers who made your vehicle figured out the most efficient filtering rate relative to airflow for the cabin and the air sealing in the vehicle. Unless you've done more math than they have, just leave it alone and just change your filter as the manual says.
Same goes for performance enhancing "additives" in your tank. It's mostly bullshit.
I installed one of these Bosch HEPA filters in my Celica and it seems to blast air. However, I did notice a fan noise, can't recall if it was there before. Granted, it's an old car. I'll have to A:B test it.
I installed a different brand HEPA filter in my minivan and it also seems to still blast air.
I see what you're saying, though. I don't want to kill the AC compressors.
The reason they don't work is because they reduce airflow. The air that does get through will be very clean, but you're cleaning less air per minute. With the correct filter you're perhaps filtering less effectively but the air is passing through the filter much more often. Each time reducing the particulate. So in the end you have more contamination in the air vs using a normal filter.
You're better off with more frequent passes especially in a vehicle that's not truly air sealed and has air pushing against it at a minimum of [your driving speed mph] and having passengers inside exhaling viruses.
For reference, even with 180ug/m3+ (pretty sure it was well over 200 at one point) wildfire smoke, just 5 minutes in my Honda with the doors/windows closed was enough to get it down to <20/ug/m3 which is basically a slightly hazy day in any remotely urban-ish area (you wouldn't even think about it unless you look at the EPA air quality index). That's with just the standard Honda cabin air filter and having the fan running high in the car.
The engineers who made your vehicle figured out the most efficient filtering rate relative to airflow for the cabin and the air sealing in the vehicle. Unless you've done more math than they have, just leave it alone and just change your filter as the manual says.
Same goes for performance enhancing "additives" in your tank. It's mostly bullshit.
Can you please suggest one that don't mess the AC
Correct. The 5th gen Honda Prelude does not filter outside air. (iirc some vehicles didn't even have filters yet at all in the 90's)
It is true that using a HEPA filter such as this Bosch one in a system not designed for it will potentiate premature failure of stressed components by increased static pressure as well cause noticeable reduction of "air coming out",
The 5th gen Lude mitigated these issues by using 2 HEPA filters stacked side by side. This increased the filtering surface area preserving output volume. I believe it also placed the blower before the filters forcing air through the filters rather than sucking air through the filters like used in most cars.
The filters were very expensive at the time to replace $90+ for 2 OEM replacement HEPA filters.
Edit for any prelude owners. The 4th gen Prelude didn't have filters at all . but it used a similar design as the 5th gen so it was possible to easily modify it for the 5th gen HEPA filters by cutting the blower box behind the glove box and placing the filters in the same place as the 5th gen.
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Some purist preach OEM is the only acceptable replacement.. and I would absolutely agree for certain components.
But for something like an air filter, OEM can be cost prohibitive, especially at the stealership.
If your cars instruction manual (located in the glove compartment) doesn't specify replacing the CABIN air filter with HEPA. Then avoid anything labeled with HEPA just buy any regular non-HEPA filter you want for your model vehicle.
*Keep in mind the rule of "you get what you pay for" still applies.
*Carbon is a nice bonus just be aware its effectiveness will gradually decrease over 1-2 months to zero. At which time the filter will then continue to function as if it didn't have carbon.
I installed one of these Bosch HEPA filters in my Celica and it seems to blast air. However, I did notice a fan noise, can't recall if it was there before. Granted, it's an old car. I'll have to A:B test it.
I installed a different brand HEPA filter in my minivan and it also seems to still blast air.
I see what you're saying, though. I don't want to kill the AC compressors.
If it works, I wouldn't sweat it.
If it's the early 2000 Celica, it's probably fine. Plus it's Toyota, you're good. 😆
The reason they don't work is because they reduce airflow. The air that does get through will be very clean, but you're cleaning less air per minute. With the correct filter you're perhaps filtering less effectively but the air is passing through the filter much more often. Each time reducing the particulate. So in the end you have more contamination in the air vs using a normal filter.
You're better off with more frequent passes especially in a vehicle that's not truly air sealed and has air pushing against it at a minimum of [your driving speed mph] and having passengers inside exhaling viruses.
For reference, even with 180ug/m3+ (pretty sure it was well over 200 at one point) wildfire smoke, just 5 minutes in my Honda with the doors/windows closed was enough to get it down to <20/ug/m3 which is basically a slightly hazy day in any remotely urban-ish area (you wouldn't even think about it unless you look at the EPA air quality index). That's with just the standard Honda cabin air filter and having the fan running high in the car.
The engineers who made your vehicle figured out the most efficient filtering rate relative to airflow for the cabin and the air sealing in the vehicle. Unless you've done more math than they have, just leave it alone and just change your filter as the manual says.
Same goes for performance enhancing "additives" in your tank. It's mostly bullshit.
It's important to keep in mind, not ALL additives are "bullshit"
Gasoline Direct Injection motors, aka GDI engines absolutely need a good fuel cleaner additive (ideally containing PEA) routinely at a minimum every oil change to minimize carbon fouling of freakin everything .
The reason they don't work is because they reduce airflow. The air that does get through will be very clean, but you're cleaning less air per minute. With the correct filter you're perhaps filtering less effectively but the air is passing through the filter much more often. Each time reducing the particulate. So in the end you have more contamination in the air vs using a normal filter.
You're better off with more frequent passes especially in a vehicle that's not truly air sealed and has air pushing against it at a minimum of [your driving speed mph] and having passengers inside exhaling viruses.
For reference, even with 180ug/m3+ (pretty sure it was well over 200 at one point) wildfire smoke, just 5 minutes in my Honda with the doors/windows closed was enough to get it down to
The reason they don't work is because they reduce airflow. The air that does get through will be very clean, but you're cleaning less air per minute. With the correct filter you're perhaps filtering less effectively but the air is passing through the filter much more often. Each time reducing the particulate. So in the end you have more contamination in the air vs using a normal filter.
You're better off with more frequent passes especially in a vehicle that's not truly air sealed and has air pushing against it at a minimum of [your driving speed mph] and having passengers inside exhaling viruses.
For reference, even with 180ug/m3+ (pretty sure it was well over 200 at one point) wildfire smoke, just 5 minutes in my Honda with the doors/windows closed was enough to get it down to
The reason they don't work is because they reduce airflow. The air that does get through will be very clean, but you're cleaning less air per minute. With the correct filter you're perhaps filtering less effectively but the air is passing through the filter much more often. Each time reducing the particulate. So in the end you have more contamination in the air vs using a normal filter.
You're better off with more frequent passes especially in a vehicle that's not truly air sealed and has air pushing against it at a minimum of [your driving speed mph] and having passengers inside exhaling viruses.
For reference, even with 180ug/m3+ (pretty sure it was well over 200 at one point) wildfire smoke, just 5 minutes in my Honda with the doors/windows closed was enough to get it down to
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Couple months ago i bought a Bosch filter similar to this one and it was very disappointing. My current OEM filter come with carbon to reduce odor, the Bosch one does nothing to odor at all. Outside odor come straight into cabin. A few weeks later I bought an OEM to replace the Bosch and things go back to normal.