Introducing the Hyper 29-inch Unisex E-Ride Electric Mountain Bike in Matte Grey. This bike is designed to conquer any challenge especially steep hills. With its powerful motor and efficient design climbing becomes a thrilling experience. The bike features a 36-volt lithium-ion battery providing a range of 20 miles per charge. It only takes 4 hours to fully charge ensuring you spend more time riding and less time waiting. The 29-inch wheels offer excellent traction and stability making it easier to navigate rough terrain. What sets this electric mountain bike apart is its Mid-Drive motor. It provides higher torque output allowing you to conquer steep hills for longer periods. The responsive pedal assist system gives you that extra boost when needed. With a lightweight and well-balanced center of gravity you ll have full control and can easily maneuver through any obstacles.
Product SKU:
377127878
UPC:
690995980793
Community Notes
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Model: Hyper E-Ride Electric Bike, 29inch Wheels, Men’s MID DRIVE MTB Dual-Suspension, 36 Volt, 20+ Mile Range, Matte Grey
Deal HistoryÂ
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Let me touch on why this is not as good as a high quality e-mtb, not matter what you upgrade.
1) The pivots in the frame are small, AND they use cheap bushings. Bushings are actually good if done right (Ibis uses bushings in some of their suspension pivots), but owners of this bike report they wear out fast, and they are not lubricated.
2) The bike has pretty long chainstays. This means the bike will be more difficulty to turn around tight corners.
3) The frame only offers like 80mm of rear travel. Don't bother thinking you can just swap in a longer shock to get more travel, it doesn't work that way. Most good e-mtbs offer 140-170mm of rear travel. That's a huge difference.
4) The swingarm of this frame looks a bit anemic and weak. Look at the thickness of the tubing and all the welds near the dropouts. I've seen at least one person have the swingarm break in half at the chainstay.
5) The bike does not appear to be waterproofed well. Just look at the lack of grommet at the hole in the downtube above the motor. I don't think Hyper claims this bike is waterproof either.
6) The frame is not set up to run a dropper seatpost. Not a huge deal, because their are way around this, but it's something that should have been addressed when this bike was designed.
Things you kind of need to upgrade if you wish to use it a fair amount offroad:
1) Drivetrain upgrade. The cheap rear derailleur will cause a terrible amount of chain slap and will likely cause the chain to be thrown off. The freewheel has a pretty narrow range of gearing, and combined with the large chainring in the front, will result in difficulty climbing steep hills. Grip shifters kind of suck offroad, especially the cheap ones.
2) Rear wheel upgrade. First, the stock wheel is a huge weak point, as I've seen several reports of axles breaking and the freewheel breaking. Second, because it uses a freewheel, upgrading the drivetrain is very limited. A wheel with a freehub (vs freewheel) really opens the options up for great wide-range cassettes. Third, bolt-on axles suck, and a rear wheel with a quick-release is a huge convenience.
3) Brake upgrade. At the minimum, you probably want to swap out the brake pads for something with better bite, but honestly, hydraulic brakes (even the cheaper ones) are a huge upgrade, especially on a bike that weighs more than 50 pounds.
4) Fork upgrade. The stock fork would be fine for very occasional offroad use for a light weight rider, but serious riding will greatly benefit from a fork with an air spring (to adjust fork preload for rider weight), better damping, and thicker stanchions (less flex and deflection). Even a cheap $150-200 "take-off" fork would be a huge improvement.
5) Taller riders are probably going to need to swap out the bars with something with more rise, as the stack height of this bike is very low.
6) Dropper seatpost. Not a necessity, but it's nice to have. You don't really appreciate a dropper until you have used one. You can go externally routed and run the cable housing up the top tube and secure it with zipties and electrical tape, or use a dropper with the lever integrated into the post under the saddle, so no remote is needed. I'm not a fan of drilling holes in frames.
I got this bike on sale last year for $1298.00 and am very happy with it. $699.00 is a steal.
I've ridden and raced gas-powered bikes in the woods for over 40 years.And I rode all over Moab on MTB before there ever was suspension. I'm not on Team Red Bull but I can get through the woods pretty well, even at 57 yrs. old.
This motor is great and helps me up to the cell tower here (800' vert. climb) and I ride back down a nasty singletrack that is loaded with granite rocks. It's been handling it fine. Even better after I upgraded the fork. With the motor I can do multiple laps. With my analog bike I never felt like doing more than one. This motor is plenty strong and I don't think you'll find any stronger ones on other eMTBs. (look at the Newton Metres of torque, not the wattage)
The Vinka motor is very well sealed and is rated for non-pressurized water spray. The connections are no more vulnerable than any other e-bike. I have ridden through crank-deep creeks with no issues.
It's not going to compete with the specs. of a $3k bike but if you're ok with that you won't regret buying this bike. I'm tempted to grab another at this price for spares and/or a buddy bike for guests.
Hyper support has been great. Emails replied to within hours, in normal English, and knowledgeable folks on the phone. They usually have batteries in stock. Some other parts are also in stock. If not, they come on the slow boat but are very reasonably priced.
Check out Vegas Hyper Adventures on Youtube. He has a fleet of these bikes for his guided tours and does some good reviews. He bought his bikes just like us so he's not biased in his reviews.
If you have a lot more $ to spend then this is the next-level deal I would look at:
No, not full suspension. There's nothing else even close to this bike at that price. There are lots of options that are way worse. Keep in mind, it's VERY difficult to even find a decent non-motorized bike with full suspension for $1000. As critical as I may seem about this bike, I actually recommended it to a friend who was looking for something for his wife to use very occasionally offroad, and mostly on road and paved/gravel trails, because the Vinka motor system in this Hyper looks pretty good. He bought my BH E-motion Rebel Lynx (uses the Yamaha PW motor system) several years ago and loves it. I have a Haibike full suspension that uses the Yamaha PW-X system, which has also been a great bike. They are a huge step up in quality compared to this Hyper, especially in the frame design.
171 Comments
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The left pedal on mine stripped its threads after the third ride. Cheap materials used, I wish I didn't buy... and I bought at $1200
I've been following threads on (and riding) this bike for a while and never heard of that problem.
Possible you cross-threaded when installing them?
I switched to shorter cranks and better grip pedals. You are welcome to have my stock ones. PM me if interested.
Let me touch on why this is not as good as a high quality e-mtb, not matter what you upgrade.
1) The pivots in the frame are small, AND they use cheap bushings. Bushings are actually good if done right (Ibis uses bushings in some of their suspension pivots), but owners of this bike report they wear out fast, and they are not lubricated.
2) The bike has pretty long chainstays. This means the bike will be more difficulty to turn around tight corners.
3) The frame only offers like 80mm of rear travel. Don't bother thinking you can just swap in a longer shock to get more travel, it doesn't work that way. Most good e-mtbs offer 140-170mm of rear travel. That's a huge difference.
4) The swingarm of this frame looks a bit anemic and weak. Look at the thickness of the tubing and all the welds near the dropouts. I've seen at least one person have the swingarm break in half at the chainstay.
5) The bike does not appear to be waterproofed well. Just look at the lack of grommet at the hole in the downtube above the motor. I don't think Hyper claims this bike is waterproof either.
6) The frame is not set up to run a dropper seatpost. Not a huge deal, because their are way around this, but it's something that should have been addressed when this bike was designed.
Things you kind of need to upgrade if you wish to use it a fair amount offroad:
1) Drivetrain upgrade. The cheap rear derailleur will cause a terrible amount of chain slap and will likely cause the chain to be thrown off. The freewheel has a pretty narrow range of gearing, and combined with the large chainring in the front, will result in difficulty climbing steep hills. Grip shifters kind of suck offroad, especially the cheap ones.
2) Rear wheel upgrade. First, the stock wheel is a huge weak point, as I've seen several reports of axles breaking and the freewheel breaking. Second, because it uses a freewheel, upgrading the drivetrain is very limited. A wheel with a freehub (vs freewheel) really opens the options up for great wide-range cassettes. Third, bolt-on axles suck, and a rear wheel with a quick-release is a huge convenience.
3) Brake upgrade. At the minimum, you probably want to swap out the brake pads for something with better bite, but honestly, hydraulic brakes (even the cheaper ones) are a huge upgrade, especially on a bike that weighs more than 50 pounds.
4) Fork upgrade. The stock fork would be fine for very occasional offroad use for a light weight rider, but serious riding will greatly benefit from a fork with an air spring (to adjust fork preload for rider weight), better damping, and thicker stanchions (less flex and deflection). Even a cheap $150-200 "take-off" fork would be a huge improvement.
5) Taller riders are probably going to need to swap out the bars with something with more rise, as the stack height of this bike is very low.
6) Dropper seatpost. Not a necessity, but it's nice to have. You don't really appreciate a dropper until you have used one. You can go externally routed and run the cable housing up the top tube and secure it with zipties and electrical tape, or use a dropper with the lever integrated into the post under the saddle, so no remote is needed. I'm not a fan of drilling holes in frames.
Wow well written and I agree with every point made, that being said I love mine and have almost pulled the trigger on another one for visitors or kids. I ride in the Rockies so aggressive-ish trails, but generally avoid things that would easily leave me dead or paralyzed. I only bought this as a preparatory ebike while i build a carbon fiber frame ebike.
Wow well written and I agree with every point made, that being said I love mine and have almost pulled the trigger on another one for visitors or kids. I ride in the Rockies so aggressive-ish trails, but generally avoid things that would easily leave me dead or paralyzed. I only bought this as a preparatory ebike while i build a carbon fiber frame ebike.
Agreed that it is a good post describing what you're not getting by buying this bike vs a $3k+ bike. But this bike isn't made for the same market. And it's VERY capable of getting the average working man into the eMTB fun without breaking the bank.I had many great rides with other MTBers before even doing the upgrades that I ended up doing.
If one decides they want to upgrade this bike it can be done very nicely for @ $500.
Or if you later decide that you're ready to go all-in, vs upgrading this one, you can probably sell it for close to what you paid and put that towards a $3k+ bike.
Me...I'm just gonna ride the wheels off this one and snicker when the other guys reach me at the bottom of the mountain and start asking about my bike from the brand that they've never heard of. ;-)
Last edited by BrianRange March 4, 2024 at 07:20 PM.
These are okay for occasional offroad use out of the box, but they need a lot of work for routine trail riding, and no matter how much you upgrade, they will never be as good as a high quality e-mtb in the $2500+ category. I think they are attractive though at this price as an "SUV" of ebikes, for someone who is not going to ride the crap out of it offroad. Walmart Canada recently had a sale that was like $600 or $700 Canadian (which is like $200 US- j/k ). This makes me suspect that Hyper has a new model coming out soon. Or it could just be that they are hurting for cash flow...
Hyper is a pretty big MBX company, they don't make these though, just designed and I think drop shipped them, I'm guessing they are getting out of the ebike game. these came out a few years ago, and I'd be a bit worried about the batteries sitting this long. I have one from when they first came out, decent for the price if the battery is ok.
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My previous e-bike was a Hyper purchased from Walmart with the Allstate Square Trade warranty. Great bike but had several mishaps that required service and they reimbursed me no questions asked, including replacement battery after charging life went down to 1/2 capacity after 5,000 miles. Maybe Amazon warranty is also good, but not as long. I used up the warranty coverage when claims reached the price of the bike😃
This is a crazy deal despite what the bike snobs say. I returned one a couple months ago for $999 due to issues with my local Walmart and was wondering if I missed out on a deal. I'm gonna add a rear hub motor to make it all wheel drive.
The seat tube length is 17", which is typically a "medium" in old school mtb sizing. Go to Walmart and find a bike with a 17" seat tube length and stand over it and see if you clear the top tube enough. If so, you can make the rest fit with stem and bar changes if needed.
Where is the 17" coming from? I can't find any sizing info on WM or AMZ. weird. And due to the slope testing any bike w/ a 17" tube will be deceiving.
I'm just looking for a casual ebike to ride around the city, which has some mild hills. Not intended to do any trail riding, would this be a good bet? It seems like mid drive ebikes of any shape (suspension aside) are rare to come by in this price range?
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1) The pivots in the frame are small, AND they use cheap bushings. Bushings are actually good if done right (Ibis uses bushings in some of their suspension pivots), but owners of this bike report they wear out fast, and they are not lubricated.
2) The bike has pretty long chainstays. This means the bike will be more difficulty to turn around tight corners.
3) The frame only offers like 80mm of rear travel. Don't bother thinking you can just swap in a longer shock to get more travel, it doesn't work that way. Most good e-mtbs offer 140-170mm of rear travel. That's a huge difference.
4) The swingarm of this frame looks a bit anemic and weak. Look at the thickness of the tubing and all the welds near the dropouts. I've seen at least one person have the swingarm break in half at the chainstay.
5) The bike does not appear to be waterproofed well. Just look at the lack of grommet at the hole in the downtube above the motor. I don't think Hyper claims this bike is waterproof either.
6) The frame is not set up to run a dropper seatpost. Not a huge deal, because their are way around this, but it's something that should have been addressed when this bike was designed.
Things you kind of need to upgrade if you wish to use it a fair amount offroad:
1) Drivetrain upgrade. The cheap rear derailleur will cause a terrible amount of chain slap and will likely cause the chain to be thrown off. The freewheel has a pretty narrow range of gearing, and combined with the large chainring in the front, will result in difficulty climbing steep hills. Grip shifters kind of suck offroad, especially the cheap ones.
2) Rear wheel upgrade. First, the stock wheel is a huge weak point, as I've seen several reports of axles breaking and the freewheel breaking. Second, because it uses a freewheel, upgrading the drivetrain is very limited. A wheel with a freehub (vs freewheel) really opens the options up for great wide-range cassettes. Third, bolt-on axles suck, and a rear wheel with a quick-release is a huge convenience.
3) Brake upgrade. At the minimum, you probably want to swap out the brake pads for something with better bite, but honestly, hydraulic brakes (even the cheaper ones) are a huge upgrade, especially on a bike that weighs more than 50 pounds.
4) Fork upgrade. The stock fork would be fine for very occasional offroad use for a light weight rider, but serious riding will greatly benefit from a fork with an air spring (to adjust fork preload for rider weight), better damping, and thicker stanchions (less flex and deflection). Even a cheap $150-200 "take-off" fork would be a huge improvement.
5) Taller riders are probably going to need to swap out the bars with something with more rise, as the stack height of this bike is very low.
6) Dropper seatpost. Not a necessity, but it's nice to have. You don't really appreciate a dropper until you have used one. You can go externally routed and run the cable housing up the top tube and secure it with zipties and electrical tape, or use a dropper with the lever integrated into the post under the saddle, so no remote is needed. I'm not a fan of drilling holes in frames.
I've ridden and raced gas-powered bikes in the woods for over 40 years.And I rode all over Moab on MTB before there ever was suspension. I'm not on Team Red Bull but I can get through the woods pretty well, even at 57 yrs. old.
This motor is great and helps me up to the cell tower here (800' vert. climb) and I ride back down a nasty singletrack that is loaded with granite rocks. It's been handling it fine. Even better after I upgraded the fork. With the motor I can do multiple laps. With my analog bike I never felt like doing more than one. This motor is plenty strong and I don't think you'll find any stronger ones on other eMTBs. (look at the Newton Metres of torque, not the wattage)
The Vinka motor is very well sealed and is rated for non-pressurized water spray. The connections are no more vulnerable than any other e-bike. I have ridden through crank-deep creeks with no issues.
It's not going to compete with the specs. of a $3k bike but if you're ok with that you won't regret buying this bike. I'm tempted to grab another at this price for spares and/or a buddy bike for guests.
Hyper support has been great. Emails replied to within hours, in normal English, and knowledgeable folks on the phone. They usually have batteries in stock. Some other parts are also in stock. If not, they come on the slow boat but are very reasonably priced.
Check out Vegas Hyper Adventures on Youtube. He has a fleet of these bikes for his guided tours and does some good reviews. He bought his bikes just like us so he's not biased in his reviews.
If you have a lot more $ to spend then this is the next-level deal I would look at:
https://slickdeals.net/f/17330331-bulls-ebike-copperhead-evo-am-1-750-bosch-cx-2999?src=catego
171 Comments
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Possible you cross-threaded when installing them?
I switched to shorter cranks and better grip pedals. You are welcome to have my stock ones. PM me if interested.
1) The pivots in the frame are small, AND they use cheap bushings. Bushings are actually good if done right (Ibis uses bushings in some of their suspension pivots), but owners of this bike report they wear out fast, and they are not lubricated.
2) The bike has pretty long chainstays. This means the bike will be more difficulty to turn around tight corners.
3) The frame only offers like 80mm of rear travel. Don't bother thinking you can just swap in a longer shock to get more travel, it doesn't work that way. Most good e-mtbs offer 140-170mm of rear travel. That's a huge difference.
4) The swingarm of this frame looks a bit anemic and weak. Look at the thickness of the tubing and all the welds near the dropouts. I've seen at least one person have the swingarm break in half at the chainstay.
5) The bike does not appear to be waterproofed well. Just look at the lack of grommet at the hole in the downtube above the motor. I don't think Hyper claims this bike is waterproof either.
6) The frame is not set up to run a dropper seatpost. Not a huge deal, because their are way around this, but it's something that should have been addressed when this bike was designed.
Things you kind of need to upgrade if you wish to use it a fair amount offroad:
1) Drivetrain upgrade. The cheap rear derailleur will cause a terrible amount of chain slap and will likely cause the chain to be thrown off. The freewheel has a pretty narrow range of gearing, and combined with the large chainring in the front, will result in difficulty climbing steep hills. Grip shifters kind of suck offroad, especially the cheap ones.
2) Rear wheel upgrade. First, the stock wheel is a huge weak point, as I've seen several reports of axles breaking and the freewheel breaking. Second, because it uses a freewheel, upgrading the drivetrain is very limited. A wheel with a freehub (vs freewheel) really opens the options up for great wide-range cassettes. Third, bolt-on axles suck, and a rear wheel with a quick-release is a huge convenience.
3) Brake upgrade. At the minimum, you probably want to swap out the brake pads for something with better bite, but honestly, hydraulic brakes (even the cheaper ones) are a huge upgrade, especially on a bike that weighs more than 50 pounds.
4) Fork upgrade. The stock fork would be fine for very occasional offroad use for a light weight rider, but serious riding will greatly benefit from a fork with an air spring (to adjust fork preload for rider weight), better damping, and thicker stanchions (less flex and deflection). Even a cheap $150-200 "take-off" fork would be a huge improvement.
5) Taller riders are probably going to need to swap out the bars with something with more rise, as the stack height of this bike is very low.
6) Dropper seatpost. Not a necessity, but it's nice to have. You don't really appreciate a dropper until you have used one. You can go externally routed and run the cable housing up the top tube and secure it with zipties and electrical tape, or use a dropper with the lever integrated into the post under the saddle, so no remote is needed. I'm not a fan of drilling holes in frames.
If one decides they want to upgrade this bike it can be done very nicely for @ $500.
Or if you later decide that you're ready to go all-in, vs upgrading this one, you can probably sell it for close to what you paid and put that towards a $3k+ bike.
Me...I'm just gonna ride the wheels off this one and snicker when the other guys reach me at the bottom of the mountain and start asking about my bike from the brand that they've never heard of. ;-)
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