Participating Subaru Dealerships [
dealership locator] have
2023 Subaru Solterra Electric Compact SUV (Premium Trim, code PED-11) available to
Lease at
$241/month for
36 months (total $8,676) plus tax and license fee from participating dealerships w/ zero down for qualified buyers. Contact your local dealership(s) to verify if this offer is available in your area.
Thanks to community member
KhalidS8701 for finding this deal.
- Note: Offer and inventory availability may vary by location.
Features:
- All-wheel-drive electric crossover
- Seats five and carries 23.8 cubic feet of cargo behind its rear seats.
- Range: 228 miles
- 0-60mph in 6.5 seconds
- 8.3" of ground clearance
- Built on Toyota's e-TGNA global battery-electric vehicle platform
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To the poster of "shoving" post - Lets take a deep breath and start counting the Trillions of Dollars of subsidies the Oil companies and ICE companies have received in the last 100+ years that ICE has existed. Shall we?
BTW- like the sheep you are you do not seem to have travelled a lot. Check the price of petrol and diesel (you call it gas) across the world and compare it against US prices per gallon and you would know how much subsidy you are receiving for "gas".
For people not happy about EV's in general let me start off by saying that I saved $3500 last year by driving a small EV with a 150 mile range (gives me about 175 with my driving style), PV solar rooftop system and city driving in my EV. For my long distance vacations, I have a nice 7-seater SUV. For 1+ car families living in suburban setting and having multiple chores through the day, an EV is a no-brainer. On a mileage equivalent basis - if the gas cost were $4 per gallon, I get an equivalent of 150 miles per gallon from my EV. Last year I drive over 18k miles- Over 90% of that was in my EV because 90% of my driving is within my city with about 400 miles per week average. Having an EV saved me a bunch on my gas that I would have otherwise used to do the same commute and chores and drop-off,pickups of kids, etc.
The reason I bought an EV is find a better use of my excess electricity production from my PV system. I was putting it on the grid but our utility does not pay for any additional generation- its a use it or lose it policy for electricity generated by my system. EV was the best use I found for this and I ended up saving money for the driving around town that I would have to in an ICE anyways. Driving an EV is awesome fun especially in town where one has to stop/slow down quite often. The Regen braking/One pedal driving/overnight charging at home/lack of maintenance, etc are all cherries on top. I have had days of driving where I never used the brake even once- anyways that is besides the point.
Now for some financials because I would not do this out of the good of my heart or to save the environment or whatever the sheep on the other side of the farm are being fed (yes, IMO there are Sheep on both sides on the spectrum). The only thing that makes sense to me is if something saves me money or not- so there has to be a clear ROI.
My PV system covers 100% of my bills in 9 months of the year- It covers only 50% for the 3 months of summer. I overproduce during those 9 months to an extent that I can drive for 15k + miles. My ROI or breakeven period for just my PV would have been about 7-8 years without the utility increasing the per kwh cost. An year or 2 less if they increased their cost it by 20% over the course of those 7-8 years.
Now the intersting part - with 15k of driving on my PV system "extra" electricity, I saved 2250 in direct gas costs. For the other 3k miles it is about $400, because I had to pay the utility company for the electricity for those 3k miles. Overall, I would have saved 2500 miles conservatively + no electricity cost for my home needs in 8-9 out of the 12 months.
YMMV - as it will depend on the cost of electicity in your area, the number of miles you drive the EV, the range of the EV that you buy (Lower range is excellent because it has a smaller battery; Battery weight is very high so any additional range EV you buy that you are truly not using the full range for is additional weight you carry around for the commute), your ability to negotiate a great rate for the PV system and any rebates your state will give for EV and/or PV systems. My state or utility does Not have any rebate for EV or PV and even then my break-even point is at 3.5 years. Note- there is a federal rebate on PV of 30% of the installation cost.
Long post and its a real world actual and factual data. Hope it helps someone who truly interested in saving money and going beyond the politics of this.
By comparison gas is $3.50 right now (more like $5-6 in CA). But basically an ICE with 25mpg would be 14c/mile at average gas price, closer to 20c in CA, compared to 9c or often much less for EV home charging.
There's a reason they do these deep discounts.
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My electric cost is 13.5 cents per kwh. I get 5 to 5.2 miles per kwh in spring/fall and about 4.2 to 4.4 miles per kwh in summer and winter. So I do end up saving quite a lot of money for the amount of commute miles I put on in general. I was charging from my level-1 charger every night for the first 6-7 months or so but then decided to get a level-2 charger.
There's a reason they do these deep discounts.
We are currently seeing the tip of the iceberg on upcoming massive price drops across the board, both for EVs and internal combustion cars and trucks. Demand for all has dropped to historic lows because of greedy pricing by manufacturers/dealers combined with high interest rates, tightened lending standards, and upside down trade-ins. Lots are overflowing nationwide, with even some new 2022 models still unsold. When the tipping point is reached in the next 6 months or so, 5 figure discounts off sticker will become the norm as dealers scramble to offload inventory in a buyer's market. Many dealers are facing bankruptcy as we speak unless drastic measures are taken to move cars that are costing them huge amounts in floorplan interest costs. It's time for them to pay the piper for the easy money they made during the pandemic.
Oh and I forgot to mention the underhanded, dishonest tactics and ridiculous add-ons from dealers. All of this combined has made the average car buyer detest the current "dealership experience". I'd love to go buy a new truck, but currently there is no way I'd set foot on a dealership lot with all of the above in mind. They can keep their $80,000 trucks; I'm not interested.
Very well stated!
Make sure you take into account dealer add-ons and any fees they like to tack on. you kind of have to explain the promotion to them like 4-5 times tell they bring the finance manager and he can make sense of it.
Overall: 365/M with 5.5K down (3K Dealer Fee, Tags, Doc, Add-ons, etc + 2500 Tax Credit) & they paid my first month.
Finer details:
Subarus Promotion 330/M (10K w/ 46.3K MSRP)
1.5K Higher MSRP ($42/m)
12K Miles ($10/month)
=382/M (calculated) - 365/m (Actual) = 17/M or $612 Discount (From Dealer) + 365 for paying one of my payments
So overall true cost of Car:
=$13,140 (365*36)+$3000(Down)-$365(1st payment paid by Subaru)= $15,775 (total cost of Lease)/36month
$15,775 (total cost of Lease) / 36month=$438.19/month (True Payment per month)
$438.19/47500 (MSRP) =.9225% Monthly payment of MSRP.
Not really a unicorn deal, but solid none the less.
That would be especially good if you don't need it daily — you could use slower level 1 charging in your garage (ie the regular home outlet plug). No need to get an appliance (level 2) plug installed.
For $241/m, it's an interesting impulse buy. Just wish the Lexus version would have a fire sale too
To the rest of your post, yes I will go with a heat-pump system over a normal heater once my current one breaks down. It will cost me more initially but I will recoup that cost and some more in the course of time. Solar panels, heat pumps, (will never do a electric stove), or other more efficient systems are a No-Brainer to me if it saves me money. They also add value to the house in case you want to sell it because truth be told every person wants to save money (the reason SD is so popular). Also, ROI and break-even points matter. I will not buy a battery storage for my PV because it is not (yet) cost effective. A simple example is the low-water toilet flush. When flush was designed decades back they were using more water every flush. If my water bill is $200 per month and by changing flushes in my house if I can go down to $100 a month, then putting up $2k or whatever to change all toilets will make sense in 20 months. If there is viable technology out there that can save me money then I have no qualms over using it. No political party or religion or belief is going to influence me to do the right thing for myself.
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