Home Depot has the DEWALT DCS7485 8-1/4-inch compact table saw with stand combo for $299.00 w/ free shipping (or pickup), which matches the frontpage deal from a couple of weeks ago.
Highlights:
- Compact size for ease of transportation and storage
- Rack and pinion telescoping fence rails make fence adjustments fast, smooth and accurate
- 24.5 in. of rip capacity for ripping 4x8 plywood or OSB sheets
- Power-loss reset prevents accidental re-starts following a power disruption when the tool is left in the on position
- Blade brake
- On-board storage for guard, fence, wrenches and miter gauge
- Metal roll cage base for jobsite durability
- Site-pro modular guarding system allows for tool free adjustments of the guarding
- DW7451 - heavy-duty tube steel construction provides the strength you need for safe operation
- DW7451 - support bar hardware holes for secure fastening of saw to the stand
- DW7451 - designed for use with the DW7480 compact job site table saw, DCS7485 60-Volt table saw and DW745 compact table saw
- DW7451 - lightweight for easy storage and transport
- DW7451 - backed by a 3-year limited warranty
- DW7451 - folds flat for easy handling
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWAL.../313513771
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I see the need for table saw to rip my dimensional lumber, but just afraid that I'm going to use it incorrectly and harm myself with injuries.
Any tips on how to get over this before such a deal shows up the next time so I could buy it without worrying that it'll just collect dust? I'm in Bay area (Northern California), if anyone has recommendations for classes I could take locally to ease myself into it.
I see the need for table saw to rip my dimensional lumber, but just afraid that I'm going to use it incorrectly and harm myself with injuries.
Any tips on how to get over this before such a deal shows up the next time so I could buy it without worrying that it'll just collect dust? I'm in Bay area (Northern California), if anyone has recommendations for classes I could take locally to ease myself into it.
I see the need for table saw to rip my dimensional lumber, but just afraid that I'm going to use it incorrectly and harm myself with injuries.
Any tips on how to get over this before such a deal shows up the next time so I could buy it without worrying that it'll just collect dust? I'm in Bay area (Northern California), if anyone has recommendations for classes I could take locally to ease myself into it.
Here are some YouTube videos that I think are quite good. But definitely an in-person class is also a great option.
I see the need for table saw to rip my dimensional lumber, but just afraid that I'm going to use it incorrectly and harm myself with injuries.
Any tips on how to get over this before such a deal shows up the next time so I could buy it without worrying that it'll just collect dust? I'm in Bay area (Northern California), if anyone has recommendations for classes I could take locally to ease myself into it.
I bought this item a couple of months ago and had to return it because the stand turned out to be worthless (mounting holes on stand would not line up with the corresponding holes on the saw). It was a shame really, as the saw itself seemed well made, but I can't use it without a decent stand.
I bought this item a couple of months ago and had to return it because the stand turned out to be worthless (mounting holes on stand would not line up with the corresponding holes on the saw). It was a shame really, as the saw itself seemed well made, but I can't use it without a decent stand.
I see the need for table saw to rip my dimensional lumber, but just afraid that I'm going to use it incorrectly and harm myself with injuries.
Any tips on how to get over this before such a deal shows up the next time so I could buy it without worrying that it'll just collect dust? I'm in Bay area (Northern California), if anyone has recommendations for classes I could take locally to ease myself into it.
Also saw stop is a great option (I don't have one, but think I may get one before long). Sure it's expensive, but compare the costs to an ER visit and it's way cheaper.
The only other advice I would say is have a large infeed and out feed setup it definitely helps avoid incident. I personally would stay away from this or any 8.25" saw due to the table limitations (also no dado capability).
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That being said, a track saw is a lot safer than a table saw. Sure, you could still get severely injured from blade contact during a bad kickback, but that chances are much lower than when people get complacent with a table saw.
This is a great example of a use case where it is doable on a track saw, but a lot easier on a table saw, especially if you have multiple 2x4s to cut.
I see the need for table saw to rip my dimensional lumber, but just afraid that I'm going to use it incorrectly and harm myself with injuries.
Any tips on how to get over this before such a deal shows up the next time so I could buy it without worrying that it'll just collect dust? I'm in Bay area (Northern California), if anyone has recommendations for classes I could take locally to ease myself into it.
1. If possible, always use either a riving knife or the blade cover (which includes a splitter at the back). There are very few situations where you'd need to do a cut without one of those 2.
2. Never stand directly behind the saw, and never point the saw at something that could be harmed in the event of a kickback. I stand just to the left of where I'm feeding the wood through, and the saw is pointed at a wall in my shop that if a kickback did occur, it would not cause harm to something other than a broken piece of drywall.
3. Never place your hands near the blade. If there is not enough room to *comfortably* feed by hand, I will feed a piece of wood by hand through until it's just past the edge of the table, then switch to a push stick.
4. Kind of builds on 3, but never pick up a piece of wood until the blade comes to a full stop. I cringe when I see folks on YouTube doing that - it just seems like a recipe for disaster. Be patient. If it takes 10x as long to make a set of cuts by having to wait, then so be it.
5. Visualize your cut. Where are your hands going to be? When are you going to switch from hand feeding to a push stick? Where is your push stick going to sit so that you don't need to reach over the blade to get it? Where are you going to stand? Is the wood supported on both sides enough that it won't tip?
6. Always, always unplug the saw when not in use. That includes if you need to swap from the blade guard to the riving knife, or changing blades.
7. Wear proper PPE. That means eye protection, ear protection, and a mask for dust if needed. Never, ever wear loose clothing. Do not wear gloves with running a saw.
8. Especially if running construction lumber like 2x4, always run the crowned side towards the blade when ripping. If you run the crowned side towards the fence, it could pinch the wood against the blade and cause a kickback.
9. Never run the saw when tired, or after drinking. Hopefully that should be obvious, but still worth saying. Your full focus should be on the task at hand - do not allow yourself to get distracted. That could mean closing the door to the shop so people or pets don't come in either.
10. Feather boards will help keep your cuts straighter and can help prevent kickback.
Foot switch - Harbor Freight $16 - https://www.harborfreig
Apron - a random one on Amazon $30 - https://www.amazon.com/Woodworkin...09
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don't raise the blade more than 1/4 in over the thickness of the wood you're trying to cut
be aware of the wood at all time, especially keeping the wood traveling straight over the blade; going a little diagonal could turn very dangerous very fast
if things don't sound or feel right (the saw is making unusual noises or you're feeling more resistance than usual) stop immediately and study the situation and rethink how to make the cut
don't cross cut long pieces on the table saw
don't wear gloves
double check the fence is locked in before every cut
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