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expired Posted by Nightfury18 • Nov 16, 2024
expired Posted by Nightfury18 • Nov 16, 2024

Ryobi gas pressure washer - $299 (Was $̶𝟥̶𝟫̶𝟫̶ 25% off )

$299

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In store clearance only

3100PSI - $299 ( Was $399. 25% off )

Gallons Per Minute - 2.3

Engine Make - Honda Engine

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI.../327447758

2900 PSI - $249 ( Was $299 , 17% off )

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI.../314110918
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Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
In store clearance only

3100PSI - $299 ( Was $399. 25% off )

Gallons Per Minute - 2.3

Engine Make - Honda Engine

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI.../327447758

2900 PSI - $249 ( Was $299 , 17% off )

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI.../314110918

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Model: RYOBI 3100 PSI 2.3 GPM Cold Water Gas Pressure Washer with Honda GCV167 Engine

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9 Comments

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Original Poster
Nov 16, 2024
33 Posts
Joined Aug 2017
Nov 16, 2024
Nightfury18
Original Poster
Nov 16, 2024
33 Posts
No good deals on gas pressure washer . These are the only deals I found I Home Depot . Would anyone recommend any these ?
Nov 16, 2024
2,849 Posts
Joined Mar 2008
Nov 16, 2024
produke
Nov 16, 2024
2,849 Posts
Umm hellz no. Thanks.
Nov 16, 2024
105 Posts
Joined Jul 2017
Nov 16, 2024
trecel1
Nov 16, 2024
105 Posts
I have this pressure washer. It isn't bad but the engine is notorious for an oil leak, it's an easy fix, buy a 20 dollar valve cover and new liquid seal. I think it's still cheaper than other options. It's worked great for me.

*edit I got this for 200 a little over a year ago, 300 might be too much with the oil leak issue
Nov 16, 2024
675 Posts
Joined Jun 2004
Nov 16, 2024
maddog55
Nov 16, 2024
675 Posts
Quote from Nightfury18 :
No good deals on gas pressure washer . These are the only deals I found I Home Depot . Would anyone recommend any these ?
No way. I've owned both gas and electric pumps. Unless your requirements are really low, don't buy electric. I have about 2000 square feet of concrete, plus siding and other things, and find gas to be the only realistic option to get things cleaned. Highly recommend over 3000 psi as a minimum and ONLY use non-ethanol gasoline.

For anyone considering a first time gas pressure washer purchase, know that the pump is what typically goes out first. Not the engine. Low priced models use an axial pump design. They may last 2-5 years depending on use and maintenance. I'd avoid these and instead focus on triplex pumps. Their design and performance is MUCH better. The whole power washers are generally beefier. Yes, you'll pay more but the investment will be well worth it. I have a 3600 Generac washer with a triplex pump that came from HD. It's about 15 years old and honestly starts on the first pull every time. It cleans WAY better than any of the dozen or so washers that I've owned over the years.

Regardless of what gas unit you buy:
Never use ethanol gas. Visit puregas.com to find non-ethanol near you. Incredibly important.
Run the gas completely out of the unit when finishing the job. Even better, if you can, lower and empty the carburetor bowl. If too lazy to do this, at least turn fuel valve off to let the unit run out. If you don't have one, valves are only about $7 and very easy to install.
Buy a $8 can of pump maintainer spray and spray it into the water inlet until you see foam coming out the output side. This helps seal the o rings and valves, preserving the pump (aside from an actual pump oil change). Do this often and always when storing for the winter.
Never store the unit outside if temperatures can hit the freezing point. There will always be water in the pump after you've used it and guaranteed this will freeze and crack your pump, rendering the whole power washer useless. This, along with ethanol or simply undrained gas, explains why so many units are given away or sold for nearly nothing every spring.
Never start the washer without having already hooked up the water hose and also squeezing the wand trigger to verify water is actually coming out.
ALWAYS squeeze the wand to release the pressure in the pump while it is running. Those who don't do this are destined to kill their power washer. In addition to the high pressure, the water inside the pump easily gets too hot. Both the pressure and the heat kill the valves and seals in any pump. Literally this can take less than thirty seconds.
When pulling the starter rope suddenly become really hard to do, squeeze the trigger on tge wand. This will release the pressure making it very easy to pull.
1
Nov 16, 2024
266 Posts
Joined Oct 2018
Nov 16, 2024
FancyWren413
Nov 16, 2024
266 Posts
Oil leaks are generally hit-or-miss occurrences, with very few instances reported. It's worth noting that this pertains to a Honda engine, which is the same model used in Honda lawn mowers, Dewalt pressure washers, and various other equipment.
There are primarily two areas where oil can leak: the valve cover and the oil dipstick tube. With either type of leak, you might notice oil on the inside of the cardboard. It's advisable to inspect the box before driving off. Return it if you see oil. Honda does test the engines before they are crated up and shipped to the various manufacturers. Both are very small leaks so Honda does not see it when testing. The oil is drained prior to shipping but there is still enough residual oil left to possibly leak out.
Both repairs are straightforward. To fix the valve cover, unscrew the four 10mm bolts and gently pry off the cover to avoid bending it. Ensure all the old sealant is completely removed from both the valve cover and the engine block. Apply high-temperature silicone or opt for the Honda-specific sealant. Remember, using more sealant is not advisable; any surplus can dislodge and block the oil passages.
For the oil dipstick tube, the o-ring might have become deformed when the tube was attached to the engine. There are two 10 mm bolts that secure it in place. It is recommended to purchase the Honda o-ring due to its unique size, part number 91301-Z9L-000.
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Nov 16, 2024
1,799 Posts
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Nov 16, 2024
WhatYaGot
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Quote from maddog55 :
No way. I've owned both gas and electric pumps. Unless your requirements are really low, don't buy electric. I have about 2000 square feet of concrete, plus siding and other things, and find gas to be the only realistic option to get things cleaned. Highly recommend over 3000 psi as a minimum and ONLY use non-ethanol gasoline.

For anyone considering a first time gas pressure washer purchase, know that the pump is what typically goes out first. Not the engine. Low priced models use an axial pump design. They may last 2-5 years depending on use and maintenance. I'd avoid these and instead focus on triplex pumps. Their design and performance is MUCH better. The whole power washers are generally beefier. Yes, you'll pay more but the investment will be well worth it. I have a 3600 Generac washer with a triplex pump that came from HD. It's about 15 years old and honestly starts on the first pull every time. It cleans WAY better than any of the dozen or so washers that I've owned over the years.

Regardless of what gas unit you buy:
Never use ethanol gas. Visit puregas.com to find non-ethanol near you. Incredibly important.
Run the gas completely out of the unit when finishing the job. Even better, if you can, lower and empty the carburetor bowl. If too lazy to do this, at least turn fuel valve off to let the unit run out. If you don't have one, valves are only about $7 and very easy to install.
Buy a $8 can of pump maintainer spray and spray it into the water inlet until you see foam coming out the output side. This helps seal the o rings and valves, preserving the pump (aside from an actual pump oil change). Do this often and always when storing for the winter.
Never store the unit outside if temperatures can hit the freezing point. There will always be water in the pump after you've used it and guaranteed this will freeze and crack your pump, rendering the whole power washer useless. This, along with ethanol or simply undrained gas, explains why so many units are given away or sold for nearly nothing every spring.
Never start the washer without having already hooked up the water hose and also squeezing the wand trigger to verify water is actually coming out.
ALWAYS squeeze the wand to release the pressure in the pump while it is running. Those who don't do this are destined to kill their power washer. In addition to the high pressure, the water inside the pump easily gets too hot. Both the pressure and the heat kill the valves and seals in any pump. Literally this can take less than thirty seconds.
When pulling the starter rope suddenly become really hard to do, squeeze the trigger on tge wand. This will release the pressure making it very easy to pull.
100% agree - well said!
Original Poster
Nov 16, 2024
33 Posts
Joined Aug 2017
Nov 16, 2024
Nightfury18
Original Poster
Nov 16, 2024
33 Posts
Quote from maddog55 :
No way. I've owned both gas and electric pumps. Unless your requirements are really low, don't buy electric. I have about 2000 square feet of concrete, plus siding and other things, and find gas to be the only realistic option to get things cleaned. Highly recommend over 3000 psi as a minimum and ONLY use non-ethanol gasoline.

For anyone considering a first time gas pressure washer purchase, know that the pump is what typically goes out first. Not the engine. Low priced models use an axial pump design. They may last 2-5 years depending on use and maintenance. I'd avoid these and instead focus on triplex pumps. Their design and performance is MUCH better. The whole power washers are generally beefier. Yes, you'll pay more but the investment will be well worth it. I have a 3600 Generac washer with a triplex pump that came from HD. It's about 15 years old and honestly starts on the first pull every time. It cleans WAY better than any of the dozen or so washers that I've owned over the years.

Regardless of what gas unit you buy:
Never use ethanol gas. Visit puregas.com to find non-ethanol near you. Incredibly important.
Run the gas completely out of the unit when finishing the job. Even better, if you can, lower and empty the carburetor bowl. If too lazy to do this, at least turn fuel valve off to let the unit run out. If you don't have one, valves are only about $7 and very easy to install.
Buy a $8 can of pump maintainer spray and spray it into the water inlet until you see foam coming out the output side. This helps seal the o rings and valves, preserving the pump (aside from an actual pump oil change). Do this often and always when storing for the winter.
Never store the unit outside if temperatures can hit the freezing point. There will always be water in the pump after you've used it and guaranteed this will freeze and crack your pump, rendering the whole power washer useless. This, along with ethanol or simply undrained gas, explains why so many units are given away or sold for nearly nothing every spring.
Never start the washer without having already hooked up the water hose and also squeezing the wand trigger to verify water is actually coming out.
ALWAYS squeeze the wand to release the pressure in the pump while it is running. Those who don't do this are destined to kill their power washer. In addition to the high pressure, the water inside the pump easily gets too hot. Both the pressure and the heat kill the valves and seals in any pump. Literally this can take less than thirty seconds.
When pulling the starter rope suddenly become really hard to do, squeeze the trigger on tge wand. This will release the pressure making it very easy to pull.
Thanks . I am first time owner and I have at least 1500 sq fr of concrete + siding and I was really confused what PSI should I should have purchased . This helps

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Nov 16, 2024
675 Posts
Joined Jun 2004
Nov 16, 2024
maddog55
Nov 16, 2024
675 Posts
Quote from Nightfury18 :
Thanks . I am first time owner and I have at least 1500 sq fr of concrete + siding and I was really confused what PSI should I should have purchased . This helps
In addition to the large area of concrete to be cleaned, some of my admittedly higher requirements are due to the stains on our driveway and sidewalk from my oak trees.

BTW, rather than wanding inch by inch like I did for years, you might consider buying this to make cleaning large flat areas of concrete.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, not cheap. When I bought two of them a few years ago, they were only about $25-$30 each but that was pre-Covid. I can say that I've owned other versions of this and they all generally were much inferior in material and performance. Just let it float and do the work. Your back will thank you and the job will be done in about 1/3 of the time or better. I know that you can use soap or other stuff to presoak before using this, but honestly I just spray the concrete with plain water first, let it soak for 5-10 minutes, and then use the device. Regardless, let it hover/float. No stripes.You will be amazed how much it cleans, how fast it cleans, and how easy it is to operate. Hook the metal rods together and just connect it to your existing wand/gun. When going over a really stained area, I might let it hover a little longer or clean it twice but those times are rare. You'll get the hang of what works best in your situation in no time.
Dec 26, 2024
104 Posts
Joined Oct 2011
Dec 26, 2024
holmy
Dec 26, 2024
104 Posts
Was just at Home Depot and they have these clearanced at $200. I checked their website and it seems that this is the clearance price in my area so YMMV. For the 3100 PSI

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