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Just a heads up. Best Buy will install this (front + back cameras) for $99. The dash cam can be purchased anywhere, it doesn't have to be from Best Buy.
Got a new model for my car, DroneXC. Dash cam that live streams the video to my cell phone via 5G. So if the alarm goes off, it alerts me and I can pull up live video. The video is also automatically stored in the cloud. So if the entire car is stolen or they steal the dash cam, you'll still have the footage. Tracks the car via GPS too.
Ordered the A119. Lowest price ever. Thanks iconian! Just in time as a friend just bought a new car. I've been using 1080P dash cams from Aukey and Yi in the $40-$50 range purchased in 2019 and they've worked flawlessly. Police officer ruled in my favor and wrote up the report favorably for a rear-end collision. I didn't even have a rear dash cam module, but he noticed the impact in the front-facing model I had. In another car, the police officer saw footage of two cars displaying road rage. One of the cars side-swiped my car and the police immediately ruled in my favor and wrote up reckless driving tickets for the two idiots. Every once in a while, check the camera to see that it's working, and reformat the MicroSD card once a month, and you'll be good to go. The dash cam market has caught on its popularity and they have jacked up their prices. A $40-$50 model will work just as well as a $200 model. You're paying for bells and whistles for the $200+ models in my humble opinion. The only reason why I spent more for the A119 is my friend wanted the name brand at the lowest price.
Having had one dash cam in my car that had a "super capacitor" in it for "durability" but yet ultimately failed; I'm hesitant to keep my dash cam on the windshield during the summer.
I wonder if it's just a fluke?
I live in Texas and have dashcams in all my (mine, wife, kids, etc.) cars, and as long as they have ultracapacitors and not batteries I've found them to handle the Texas heat just fine for years on end.
(And my cars are parked outside all the time -- they don't get garaged.)
Most are Viofo brand, like what's being sold here.
The very oldest camera has the plastic on the lens getting a bit cloudy, reducing the quality of the image it takes, but the image quality is still acceptable and that camera is six years old. (Looking it up, it's the non-Viofo exception: a Blueskysea Mini 0906 on what is now my son's car.)
Last edited by dougmc November 21, 2024 at 11:42 AM.
I have a mini 2 im very happy with. So easy to use and nice video. Only front though. Any know how the rear came works and connects to power? Also does it have its own card or does it connect to main front cam? Thanks in advance.
Great share OP!
I've had mine (a119) for over a year and it constantly gives false positives on recording events. Keeps recording clips while nothing is happening. I reached out to Viofo and they suggested lowering sensitivity to the minimum setting, but that didn't work at all.
I've generally preferred to just turn incident detection off entirely for driving.
I mean, if there is a crash, I'm going to remove the card before any footage gets overwritten anyways, so there's no need to protect it.
And what happens with footage being protected that doesn't need to be is that more and more of the card becomes unusable, and eventually it only has room for one file that keeps getting overwritten. Doing periodic reformats is how one can deal with this, but it's even better to turn off the protection entirely (or turn the sensitively all the way down) and just have a big card instead.
Now, if you can turn incident detection on for any parking mode, then that makes more sense.
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I have a mini 2 im very happy with. So easy to use and nice video. Only front though. Any know how the rear came works and connects to power? Also does it have its own card or does it connect to main front cam? Thanks in advance.
Great share OP!
Most dashcams with a remote camera (including the ones on sale here) have one long cable that goes between the back cam and the front cam.
The back cam gets power from the front unit through cable, and the cable also transfers footage from the back to the front cam. There is only one card, in the front cam, and it's recording to two files at once.
It's also pretty easy in most cars to hide this cable entirely in the headliner and gaskets.
I'd ignore all the horror stories about cams failing. All the major dash cam manufacturers use the same lenses, chips, and even OS inside. That's why when you power them on, they make that same retro-sounding tinny noise. Also means they're all going to have roughly the same failure rates assuming of course quality control rates are reasonable across the board.
My A119 footage helped me expedite my insurance claim. Other party's insurance didn't even bother trying to dispute it once my insurance co sent them the footage.
I definitely recommend considering replacing the microsd every couple of years and sticking to high endurance ones rated to last tons of cycles.
Most dashcams with a remote camera (including the ones on sale here) have one long cable that goes between the back cam and the front cam.
The back cam gets power from the front unit through cable, and the cable also transfers footage from the back to the front cam. There is only one card, in the front cam, and it's recording to two files at once.
It's also pretty easy in most cars to hide this cable entirely in the headliner and gaskets.
Having had one dash cam in my car that had a "super capacitor" in it for "durability" but yet ultimately failed; I'm hesitant to keep my dash cam on the windshield during the summer.
Anyone have a good mount that is easy to release/install the dash cam?
The high cabin heat must be killing dash cams because I'm not the only one who has had this issue. I have security cameras installed outside that have never failed. The difference is that they are not experiencing 120+ degrees like the dash cams will.
I just want high quality camera kits that don't require being mounted like a cheap radar detector.
I WANT THE CAMERAS HIDDEN or at least not obvious. I want no screen built in that forces the camera to be 20x the size it needs to be without a screen.
Dash cams are useless if a thief breaks in and steals the expensive accessory with the screen on your windshield
A unit with a remote processing box would also allow for mounting away from the heat and sunlight, like some higher end radar detector variants where everything is hidden.
Anything of high quality like this available yet?
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Apparently it was only an issue with his and earlier units?
I know my VIOFO camera tends to stop recording or save video protected or Wi-Fi enabled or other commands randomly. This is my second camera, I have the mini 2. I don't recall the Youtubers DashCam version though so I apologize.
I just want high quality camera kits that don't require being mounted like a cheap radar detector. I WANT THE CAMERAS HIDDEN or at least not obvious. I want no screen built in that forces the camera to be 20x the size it needs to be without a screen. Dash cams are useless if a thief breaks in and steals the expensive accessory with the screen on your windshieldA unit with a remote processing box would also allow for mounting away from the heat and sunlight, like some higher end radar detector variants where everything is hidden. Anything of high quality like this available yet?
https://fitcamx.com - close to what you want but not sure if your car model is covered.
This is an excessive amount of unfounded xenophobia for one to have. If you don't want to deal with Chinese companies, you're free to spend triple the amount for the exact same hardware sold under a more American sounding brand. Personally, I'd be more worried about the AI systems that are constantly recording you as you shop at Home Depot, Target, or Walmart. Heck, even Costco now knows exactly when you enter and leave the store.
Ignorance is Bliss . you are correct regarding CPC
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Save you $99. 30 minutes YouTube and 30 minutes DIY
Maybe it's 30 mins DIY if you've done this many times but for a first timer it's going to take a lot of extra time mapping out which fuse locations are ACC and always hot, how to properly route the cable and take apart the trimming in your car, etc. And for those interested, ChrisFix makes the best video I found on how to do all of this, because he shows how to properly route the cables so they don't cross paths with the pillar and side curtain air bags (99% of all videos show the short cut improper way).
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Got a new model for my car, DroneXC. Dash cam that live streams the video to my cell phone via 5G. So if the alarm goes off, it alerts me and I can pull up live video. The video is also automatically stored in the cloud. So if the entire car is stolen or they steal the dash cam, you'll still have the footage. Tracks the car via GPS too.
Yes, it's more expensive, but dope af.
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I live in Texas and have dashcams in all my (mine, wife, kids, etc.) cars, and as long as they have ultracapacitors and not batteries I've found them to handle the Texas heat just fine for years on end.
(And my cars are parked outside all the time -- they don't get garaged.)
Most are Viofo brand, like what's being sold here.
The very oldest camera has the plastic on the lens getting a bit cloudy, reducing the quality of the image it takes, but the image quality is still acceptable and that camera is six years old. (Looking it up, it's the non-Viofo exception: a Blueskysea Mini 0906 on what is now my son's car.)
Great share OP!
I mean, if there is a crash, I'm going to remove the card before any footage gets overwritten anyways, so there's no need to protect it.
And what happens with footage being protected that doesn't need to be is that more and more of the card becomes unusable, and eventually it only has room for one file that keeps getting overwritten. Doing periodic reformats is how one can deal with this, but it's even better to turn off the protection entirely (or turn the sensitively all the way down) and just have a big card instead.
Now, if you can turn incident detection on for any parking mode, then that makes more sense.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank dougmc
Great share OP!
The back cam gets power from the front unit through cable, and the cable also transfers footage from the back to the front cam. There is only one card, in the front cam, and it's recording to two files at once.
It's also pretty easy in most cars to hide this cable entirely in the headliner and gaskets.
My A119 footage helped me expedite my insurance claim. Other party's insurance didn't even bother trying to dispute it once my insurance co sent them the footage.
I definitely recommend considering replacing the microsd every couple of years and sticking to high endurance ones rated to last tons of cycles.
The back cam gets power from the front unit through cable, and the cable also transfers footage from the back to the front cam. There is only one card, in the front cam, and it's recording to two files at once.
It's also pretty easy in most cars to hide this cable entirely in the headliner and gaskets.
Anyone have a good mount that is easy to release/install the dash cam?
The high cabin heat must be killing dash cams because I'm not the only one who has had this issue. I have security cameras installed outside that have never failed. The difference is that they are not experiencing 120+ degrees like the dash cams will.
I WANT THE CAMERAS HIDDEN or at least not obvious. I want no screen built in that forces the camera to be 20x the size it needs to be without a screen.
Dash cams are useless if a thief breaks in and steals the expensive accessory with the screen on your windshield
A unit with a remote processing box would also allow for mounting away from the heat and sunlight, like some higher end radar detector variants where everything is hidden.
Anything of high quality like this available yet?
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank c00ller
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
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Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
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