Brought about by Warm Audio's team of expert engineers specifically for podcasters, live streamers, and broadcasters, the 512 AUDIO Limelight dynamic vocal XLR microphone offers build quality, tone, and features that extend beyond its price class. Like all of Warm Audio's pro audio gear, the Limelight mic is designed to produce a great sound without gratuitous tweaking after the recording.
Product SKU:
1676647
analog_output:
1x XLR 3-Pin Male
box_dimensions_lxwxh:
9.7 x 6.7 x 4.3"
circuitry:
Solid-State
color:
Black
controls:
Low Cut/HPF
diaphragm:
1.1" / 28 mm
dimensions:
ΓΈ: 2.39 x L: 6.59" / ΓΈ: 6.07 x L: 16.74 cm
element_type:
Dynamic
filter_eq:
Low-Cut Filter: 100 Hz, 12 dB/Octave
frequency_response:
50 Hz to 15 kHz
maximum_spl:
138 dB
mounting_thread_size:
5/8"-27 Female
operating_voltage:
Not Specified by Manufacturer
orientation:
End Address
package_weight:
1.52 lb
pad:
No
polar_pattern:
Hypercardioid
power_sources:
No Power Required
sound_field:
Mono
weight:
0.84 lb / 0.38 kg
Community Notes
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Don't get a USB mic if you have an audio interface. 512 is an XLR microphone, so it's gonna have superior quality and will require you to also invest in a good audio interface since they're not the easiest mic to drive.
Don't get a USB mic if you have an audio interface. 512 is an XLR microphone, so it's gonna have superior quality and will require you to also invest in a good audio interface since they're not the easiest mic to drive.
I don't have an interface. I just want to use it for Zoom calls and for occasional streaming
So I'm guessing this comes down to the cord type?
I don't have an interface. I just want to use it for Zoom calls and for occasional streamingSo I'm guessing this comes down to the cord type?
It's more than the cord type, it's the signal type. You'll get analog signal from XLR mics and digital signal from USB mics. That's why you'd need a USB audio interface with XLR mics.
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It's more than the cord type, it's the signal type. You'll get analog signal from XLR mics and digital signal from USB mics. That's why you'd need a USB audio interface with XLR mics.
I see. I am ignorant on audio stuff, but I understand analog is likely going to be better for those who do extensive work with audio?
I'm just using it for casual stuff, so I doubt I'd be needing an XLR mic then
I see. I am ignorant on audio stuff, but I understand analog is likely going to be better for those who do extensive work with audio?I'm just using it for casual stuff, so I doubt I'd be needing an XLR mic then
You absolutely don't. An XLR microphone/interface combo gives you access to a wider dynamic range (.e. you can adjust your whispers and screams to sound around the same level) and will sound much less "digital". So it's a good idea to get that setup if you have the disposable income, but not a big deal for casual use if you don't. A good interface is gonna cost you around $80 minimum, so...
I got this microphone 2 years ago for $40. This $30 deal is really good one. But I need only one of those so... not buying it.
I do not expect this microphone to compete with EV RE20 in sound quality, but for my needs (corporate meetings) it is working very well - I wanted microphone that is dynamic and picks up less background noise than my previous condenser microphones, and I wanted 'axial' microphone because it fits better above my keyboard without obstructing monitor. This microphone checked all the boxes for me.
Beware - this microphone generates quite weak signal and my old cheap and cheerful Scarlett 2i4 gen1 interface was NOT able to amplify its signal to an immediately usable level (if you just record audio for later processing, you can always boost it in post-processing, but for real-time usage you really need proper amplification to happen before converting to digital). I had to add inline amplifier (Triton Audio FetHead) to make this microphone work well. Some other, better USB interfaces might have just enough oomph to do the job by themselves.
TLDR - unless your USB interface has a lot of headroom, you might have to get inline amplifier, and those are not exactly cheap. YMMV.
You absolutely don't. An XLR microphone/interface combo gives you access to a wider dynamic range (.e. you can adjust your whispers and screams to sound around the same level) and will sound much less "digital". So it's a good idea to get that setup if you have the disposable income, but not a big deal for casual use if you don't. A good interface is gonna cost you around $80 minimum, so...
As the Indigo Caribou indicated, for those who are clueless about getting an XLR microphone working on a laptop/desktop.. you'll need some type of interface. They're typically about the size of a DAC/amp and if you're familiar with the function of one of those, this fulfills a similar function except for microphones. This is not a simple "this end don't fit" kind of issue.. and it's not just the tip.. but instead it's a solution that takes a few chips and a bit of equipment to convert the signal.
Do note: this advice is coming from a very reasonable budget audiophile, not someone seeking that last somewhat subjective 5% for $1500.. so by no means am I providing this information for an excessive hobbyist, but instead what components are considered "a necessity" where minor tradeoffs are acceptable and we're seeking the 95%, not that last 5%.
The Indigo caribou mentioned that these converters cost about $80 minimum. I'd put super-eco converters a bit lower at $30-$50, though you may be chasing some of that last 5%+ and better converters can be better. Given that I haven't used all of these products, I don't want to provide them as recommendations - but instead provide a list of leads to find similarly priced products and also rely on more expert recommendations. These converter leads include the M-Audio M-Track Solo, Focusrite Scarlett, and with a warning, I will even throw out there the super-budget $35 Behringer U-Phoria UM2. The UM2 is a bit more rough around the edges (with some driver issues & users reporting their need to reboot it sometimes) and is super-entry level, so it'd be wise to watch reviews for the trade-offs before hand just in case you're seeking what I'd call "the last 5%". That said, I've seen some very reputable reviewers recommend the UM2 and it's typically the cheapest that I see recommended, but it's only fair to include its minor inconveniences.
I will also provide ample warning to completely AVOID the current market of cord-based XLR-to-USB solutions (these typically run about $15).. In the review community, these are often trashed as they add substantial interference/whine/noise and mostly defeat the purpose of getting a quality microphone in the first place. Of course, you can use one and yes and there are plenty of sub-$15 options.. but if "quality 95%" is your desired end-game.. no, you should absolutely buy a true converter and not an XLR-to-USB cord. At minimum, just throw an extra $15 at a UM2.
Is this XLR to converter option the best audio-input solution for desktop/laptop audio? Yes, but also kind of. There does exist quality dual USB/XLR microphones in the $40-50 price range that might be a more convenient single-device solution. These are leagues better than "XLR-to-USB cord converters," which you should not be using. USB/XLR microphones are defined as microphones that have both on a microphone. Especially at that price-range, a converted XLR signal still remains just marginally better (512 AUDIO Limelight is XLR only).. And as a rule of thumb, the USB output on a recommended $40-50 XLR/USB mic almost always sounds "better than gamergear audio/headset." Meanwhile, switching from USB on a USB/XLR mic and "upgrading to marginally better XLR with the converter box" can be a down-the-line improvement. Again, I won't recommend specific XLR/USB mics, but examples of dual XLR/USB include the Samson Q2U and Audiotechnica ATR2100x-USB. As for comparative results of just using the USB option on a ~$50 USB/XLR mic compared to this deal of JUST XLR 512 Audio XLR Limelight ($30 deal + cost of converter)? I'd personally say that this specific 512 microphone @ $30 + cost of converter will marginally better to some than just the USB output, albeit $10-30 more expensive. If both were running XLR with a converter, it'd be far more parallel with a bit of 5% depending on taste.
Regardless of which option, any of these paths [aside from an XLR-to-USB cord] should result in a heck of a lot better results than the gamergear/clip-on microphone path and pretty close to the best that you'll need. A lot of very successful podcasters and youtubers use identical or comparable equipment, with not much more to chase.. but of course, that is properly configured with software and noise gates (which is the next necessary step after getting it all hooked up). So by all means, this microphone is capable of being a fairly end-game setup outside of that last 5%. You just need to properly configure, equalize, and noisegate it.
Ah, also... in addition to the usb interface, do not forget to also budget for some sort of mounting arm and suspension mount. They are not really a 'nice to have', and even budget options will cost more that this mic itself. Still worth it, in my opinion.
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Here's a solid video review: https://youtu.be/ZzHdXjgNv-8?si=2Bg_0OLf4p
https://www.amazon.com/Marantz-Pr...B01GHOM67W
Or the Samson Go Mic?
https://www.amazon.com/Samson-Mic...B001R76D4
So I'm guessing this comes down to the cord type?
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I'm just using it for casual stuff, so I doubt I'd be needing an XLR mic then
I do not expect this microphone to compete with EV RE20 in sound quality, but for my needs (corporate meetings) it is working very well - I wanted microphone that is dynamic and picks up less background noise than my previous condenser microphones, and I wanted 'axial' microphone because it fits better above my keyboard without obstructing monitor. This microphone checked all the boxes for me.
Beware - this microphone generates quite weak signal and my old cheap and cheerful Scarlett 2i4 gen1 interface was NOT able to amplify its signal to an immediately usable level (if you just record audio for later processing, you can always boost it in post-processing, but for real-time usage you really need proper amplification to happen before converting to digital). I had to add inline amplifier (Triton Audio FetHead) to make this microphone work well. Some other, better USB interfaces might have just enough oomph to do the job by themselves.
TLDR - unless your USB interface has a lot of headroom, you might have to get inline amplifier, and those are not exactly cheap. YMMV.
Do note: this advice is coming from a very reasonable budget audiophile, not someone seeking that last somewhat subjective 5% for $1500.. so by no means am I providing this information for an excessive hobbyist, but instead what components are considered "a necessity" where minor tradeoffs are acceptable and we're seeking the 95%, not that last 5%.
The Indigo caribou mentioned that these converters cost about $80 minimum. I'd put super-eco converters a bit lower at $30-$50, though you may be chasing some of that last 5%+ and better converters can be better. Given that I haven't used all of these products, I don't want to provide them as recommendations - but instead provide a list of leads to find similarly priced products and also rely on more expert recommendations. These converter leads include the M-Audio M-Track Solo, Focusrite Scarlett, and with a warning, I will even throw out there the super-budget $35 Behringer U-Phoria UM2. The UM2 is a bit more rough around the edges (with some driver issues & users reporting their need to reboot it sometimes) and is super-entry level, so it'd be wise to watch reviews for the trade-offs before hand just in case you're seeking what I'd call "the last 5%". That said, I've seen some very reputable reviewers recommend the UM2 and it's typically the cheapest that I see recommended, but it's only fair to include its minor inconveniences.
I will also provide ample warning to completely AVOID the current market of cord-based XLR-to-USB solutions (these typically run about $15).. In the review community, these are often trashed as they add substantial interference/whine/noise and mostly defeat the purpose of getting a quality microphone in the first place. Of course, you can use one and yes and there are plenty of sub-$15 options.. but if "quality 95%" is your desired end-game.. no, you should absolutely buy a true converter and not an XLR-to-USB cord. At minimum, just throw an extra $15 at a UM2.
Is this XLR to converter option the best audio-input solution for desktop/laptop audio? Yes, but also kind of. There does exist quality dual USB/XLR microphones in the $40-50 price range that might be a more convenient single-device solution. These are leagues better than "XLR-to-USB cord converters," which you should not be using. USB/XLR microphones are defined as microphones that have both on a microphone. Especially at that price-range, a converted XLR signal still remains just marginally better (512 AUDIO Limelight is XLR only).. And as a rule of thumb, the USB output on a recommended $40-50 XLR/USB mic almost always sounds "better than gamergear audio/headset." Meanwhile, switching from USB on a USB/XLR mic and "upgrading to marginally better XLR with the converter box" can be a down-the-line improvement. Again, I won't recommend specific XLR/USB mics, but examples of dual XLR/USB include the Samson Q2U and Audiotechnica ATR2100x-USB. As for comparative results of just using the USB option on a ~$50 USB/XLR mic compared to this deal of JUST XLR 512 Audio XLR Limelight ($30 deal + cost of converter)? I'd personally say that this specific 512 microphone @ $30 + cost of converter will marginally better to some than just the USB output, albeit $10-30 more expensive. If both were running XLR with a converter, it'd be far more parallel with a bit of 5% depending on taste.
Regardless of which option, any of these paths [aside from an XLR-to-USB cord] should result in a heck of a lot better results than the gamergear/clip-on microphone path and pretty close to the best that you'll need. A lot of very successful podcasters and youtubers use identical or comparable equipment, with not much more to chase.. but of course, that is properly configured with software and noise gates (which is the next necessary step after getting it all hooked up). So by all means, this microphone is capable of being a fairly end-game setup outside of that last 5%. You just need to properly configure, equalize, and noisegate it.
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