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State Electric Company has
Enel X Way JuiceBox 40A (14-50) Plug-In EV Charger w/ 25' Cord (2JBO401RNA-PJWX-300) on sale for
$100.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member
RyzenPrime for sharing this deal.
About this Item:
- Output Power: 40A, 4.4 kW at 110 VAC; 9.6 kW at 240 VAC
- Input Voltage: Single phase input power: 110 - 240 VAC ~ 60Hz
- Input: 2.5-foot input cable with NEMA 14-50 plug, NEMA 6-50 plug OR 2.5-foot hardwire pigtail
- Output Cable: 25-foot SAE J1772 standard plug
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For those wishing to hardwire, there isn't really an easy conversion as there is no good way to anchor this box to the wall without some modification to the box. The internals are mostly straightforward, except that there is an inductive sensor through which the incoming power lines are threaded and they are effectively too tight to remove (or, more importantly, replace). I suspect that the factory hardwire pigtail comes with the wires in the sensor.
Anyway, if someone out there is curious, I took mine apart to see what's inside since the worst I could do is lose $100. You'll note that the center tapped neutral from the plug is just cut clean off at the entry grommet. There are two incoming power screw lugs (and two outgoing to the EV connector), plus a common ground screw terminal. Be forewarned, the incoming box knock out is slightly smaller than a standard 1" - just small enough that a standard 1" Service Entrance connector will not fit. It looks like there's a hole at the back of the case for a rear-entry knockout, but it's too close to the main box knockout to properly use it, and even if it was, the mounting bracket covers this up and the process of mounting makes its use impossible.
All this to say that you really should have a NEMA 14/50A outlet for this.
lol have you looked at the complaints about the roughly 200k units installed. "my car cought fire in the drive way". Explain how an evse can even do that, ill wait. "it caused an explosion", ill wait for that explanation too. Tripping breakers and over heating them, yea ill by that, hell happens all the time to telsas.
Its an EVSE. The only, and i mean only, thing is does is flip a really meatly relay, that sends the house 240 to the plug. It does zero voltage conversion, it does zero current limiting. A toaster is more dangerous.
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Went on a trip to Italy and they have multiple storefronts in Rome and are pretty big there.
I got one because I have a 6ga wire for a POU water heater that I took out of my garage after an incomplete winterization didn't work. It's UF cable so I fed it in the bottom, through the grommet and used a properly designed internal splice and rated heat shrink to connect it up. It looks nicer than a gray terminal box, NEMA14/50, or the wires sticking out of the wall. $100 (+~$15 in connections etc) for something that looks useful. Heck, it's probably only the third or fourth most questionable thing I've done in my electrical system and probably doesn't crack the top 10 non-standard modifications* I've made.
*TBF, most of the unusual bits in my house are structural, and I'm a licensed structural engineer who actually works in the residential and light commercial market, so code compliant, non-standard things are my bread and butter, professionally.
For those wishing to hardwire, there isn't really an easy conversion as there is no good way to anchor this box to the wall without some modification to the box. The internals are mostly straightforward, except that there is an inductive sensor through which the incoming power lines are threaded and they are effectively too tight to remove (or, more importantly, replace). I suspect that the factory hardwire pigtail comes with the wires in the sensor.
Anyway, if someone out there is curious, I took mine apart to see what's inside since the worst I could do is lose $100. You'll note that the center tapped neutral from the plug is just cut clean off at the entry grommet. There are two incoming power screw lugs (and two outgoing to the EV connector), plus a common ground screw terminal. Be forewarned, the incoming box knock out is slightly smaller than a standard 1" - just small enough that a standard 1" Service Entrance connector will not fit. It looks like there's a hole at the back of the case for a rear-entry knockout, but it's too close to the main box knockout to properly use it, and even if it was, the mounting bracket covers this up and the process of mounting makes its use impossible.
All this to say that you really should have a NEMA 14/50A outlet for this.
lol have you looked at the complaints about the roughly 200k units installed. "my car cought fire in the drive way". Explain how an evse can even do that, ill wait. "it caused an explosion", ill wait for that explanation too. Tripping breakers and over heating them, yea ill by that, hell happens all the time to telsas.
Its an EVSE. The only, and i mean only, thing is does is flip a really meatly relay, that sends the house 240 to the plug. It does zero voltage conversion, it does zero current limiting. A toaster is more dangerous.
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