frontpagePennyFound | Staff posted Mar 24, 2025 06:49 PM
Item 1 of 4
Item 1 of 4
frontpagePennyFound | Staff posted Mar 24, 2025 06:49 PM
Fiskars Soil Block Maker
$5.55
$17
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You raise a valid concern, but unfortunately you tried to answer it with likely little basis in valid evidence. Styrofoam is a simple and very stable molecule. There is no strong indications that growing in Styrofoam cups at the seedling stage has significant effects on absorption of toxins into fruits and vegetables that come months after transplanting and have roots mainly in soil that never contacted Styrofoam. Then you'd have to look at whether watering washes away the theoretical leaching you are concerned about.
Like I said, I think your concern is valid, but where is the evidence of this measured contamination in growing seedlings in well drained potting soil in Styrofoam cups? Some studies show minor effects, and some even show beneficial effects, but in both cases, the researchers are purposely contaminating the soil with levels of polystyrene microplastics that would not occur from starting plants indoors for a few weeks. Even storing food in direct contact with polystyrene is considered safe so long as it isn't heated.
"Research suggests that polystyrene microplastics can sometimes stimulate plant growth, particularly root elongation, potentially by increasing carbon and nitrogen levels in the plants."
I put herbs in the 16oz. cups. I put big plant mass vegetable on the 20oz. cups.
Should be able to get at least 10 years of crops out of them, and protected from sun in the garage, I wouldn't be surprized if they last decades. Styrofoam is also an excellent insulator for the roots from rapid temperature swings. On year five now.
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Now after close to a decade of dedicated seedling production - I've settled on a 2-phase system.
1 - I start seedings in an Aerogarden seedling starting tray - where I let them sprout, and grow to about 4-6" tall (for tomatoes)
2 - I move them into round ~4" pots, with these carrying trays: https://www.greenhousem
The system works well, and if you invest in the pots and trays, they should last you for a decade or more.
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1) air hits all sides of the block and dries out fast without proper moisture control
2) the blocks will fall apart without proper structural mix
If you decide to do this: google Elliot Coleman seed block mix. That mix is tried and true way of doing soil blocks.
Once you perfect this method, it's much better than cups. You can do a lot of seedling starts much quicker and the transplants are much healthier. What happens is the roots will hit the edge of the soil block where the soil meets the air and then the root stops and the plant will shoot out a new root. This is called air pruning.
What you end up with is a much healthier plant with a great root system. Using this method you can even start things that normally don't transplant well like peas, beets, and cucumbers.
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Pack a tray with firm, moistened soil mix, then score it into evenly sized blocks using a knife or spatula. Press lightly to separate them, make a small indentation for seeds, and mist with water to help them hold their shape. Once seedlings sprout, transplant the blocks directly into the garden—no pots, no waste!"
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