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These are cheap for a reason... make sure you use a cc that gives you an extra 1 year warranty coverage to extend the lousy 2 year warranty on the amp to 3 years, you will probably need it. If the amps were made to last they would never only give you a 2 year warranty on them. Many dp's on these for failed amps through out the forums and on here are telling. Your much better saving up and getting a Rp-1400 when on sale or for a lesser budget the rp-1200. If you have the space and the $$$ , the rp-1600 is a montser and prob the best bang for the buck sub out there when it's on sale. I will keep up or be better then like size subs that cost 2X-3X as much.. JMHO....
they have manual gain control and manual low pass filter adjustments (Knobs on the rear). there is no built-in DSP or separate Klipsch DSP app available. you would need to do it externally with something like REW.
They also use steel stamped frames (Possible ferrous interference) versus die cast aluminum frames as seen on other products.
It's not a fully accessibly DSP, but it's DSP still. See my above post.
there is no mention at all of DSP on the Klipsch page. there is no Klipsch app available for that model.
sub FR needs to be taken at face value since the room has a tremendous impact on low end performance (This is the reason DSP exists in the first place). things like boundary gain are going to be different for everyone.
your statement that subs with DSP have a humped shaped response makes no sense since the non-DSP FR and the DSP FR will vary for every single different sub. look at the RSL Speedwoofers, they specifically have a reference DSP mode that is meant to be as flat and extended as possible.
Last edited by fourml8r March 31, 2025 at 09:57 AM.
I own this model, and paid about this price used. Amp went out after a couple months and getting it repaired cost another $200. Would have gone with another company had I known about the amp issues. RSL SVS would be my short list.
I really appreciate everyone's input. What, in your opinions, is the absolute best sub for $500 or under? I really wanted this one but the amp issues are worrisome. I've looked at a few 10" such as the RSL, but was concerned that I may need two. It's for home theater.
I really appreciate everyone's input. What, in your opinions, is the absolute best sub for $500 or under? I really wanted this one but the amp issues are worrisome. I've looked at a few 10" such as the RSL, but was concerned that I may need two. It's for home theater.
Plenty of professional reviews indicate that RSL is the best $500 sub out right now. The good thing about subs is that you can start with one (not optimal, but still gives decent enough performance) and then you can add a second one as your budget permits.
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Plenty of professional reviews indicate that RSL is the best $500 sub out right now. The good thing about subs is that you can start with one (not optimal, but still gives decent enough performance) and then you can add a second one as your budget permits.
I have two of these. Regarding the failed amp, it seems as though it's from being in standby mode for long periods of time. As such, I threw both of mine on smart switches that automatically schedule to turn off... and/or I power up the outlets and power them down on-demand. So these are never in "standby mode" which ... fingers crossed.... will notably extend the life of these.As far as performance, I think one would be VERY hard pressed to find a better bass-for-your-buck subwoofer.
I used smart switches as well as I have one of these in 3 different rooms (yes, I have 3 of these). I did have one amp burn up and it was replaced under warranty. Probably the best deal in a sub, but the auto sensing power off doesn't work right so I have a hard time recommending it.
I really appreciate everyone's input. What, in your opinions, is the absolute best sub for $500 or under? I really wanted this one but the amp issues are worrisome. I've looked at a few 10" such as the RSL, but was concerned that I may need two. It's for home theater.
I would just start out with 1 from costco if ur a member. Can return if you arent satisfied and upgrade then. I have 2 of the wired version of the costco subs i purchased in 2020 and I have been nothing but happy with them. I owned an expensive sub that is "high end" and also have a nice setup in my car, and even tho i have "cheap" subs for my home theater I have never once noticed anything lacking from the "cheap" subs. To each their own, but i highly recommend starting cheap and then upgrading, if u even find it necessary
I used smart switches as well as I have one of these in 3 different rooms (yes, I have 3 of these). I did have one amp burn up and it was replaced under warranty. Probably the best deal in a sub, but the auto sensing power off doesn't work right so I have a hard time recommending it.
Try an energy savings power strip. Plug in your TV to the control outlet and your sub to the switched outlet. Your sub will turn on when you turn on the TV. No need to schedule your smart switch or manually turn them on or off. https://a.co/d/feNBVub
they have manual gain control and manual low pass filter adjustments (Knobs on the rear). there is no built-in DSP or separate Klipsch DSP app available. you would need to do it externally with something like REW.
They also use steel stamped frames (Possible ferrous interference) versus die cast aluminum frames as seen on other products.
I am betting you would never hear a difference between a steel frame or a cast frame subwoofer.
Why not mention the Klipsch supperior aluminum voice coil that is lighter and more efficient... meaning less mass the cone has to move as opposed to a heavier copper one that needs to be moved by 1000-2000watt amps for the same output?
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I am betting you would never hear a difference between a steel frame or a cast frame subwoofer.
Why not mention the Klipsch supperior aluminum voice coil that is lighter and more efficient... meaning less mass the cone has to move as opposed to a heavier copper one that needs to be moved by 1000-2000watt amps for the same output?
aluminum in the signal path is less conductive than other materials typically used so it is not clearly a "superior" material choice.
as soon as klipsch comes out with a model that uses aluminum frames then we can do a side by side comparison.
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https://www.klipsch.com/products/...-subwoofer
They essentially copied SVS, which loves to talk about their much better DSPs:
https://www.svsound.com/blogs/sub...woofer-dsp
And have flat frequency response:
https://www.audioholics
Subs without DSP have a hump-shaped response:
https://www.audioholics
They also use steel stamped frames (Possible ferrous interference) versus die cast aluminum frames as seen on other products.
https://www.klipsch.com/products/...-subwoofer [klipsch.com]
They essentially copied SVS, which loves to talk about their much better DSPs:
https://www.svsound.com/blogs/sub...woofer-dsp [svsound.com]
And have flat frequency response:
https://www.audioholics.com/subwo...-subwoofer [audioholics.com]
Subs without DSP have a hump-shaped response:
https://www.audioholics.com/subwo...ch-r-121sw [audioholics.com]
sub FR needs to be taken at face value since the room has a tremendous impact on low end performance (This is the reason DSP exists in the first place). things like boundary gain are going to be different for everyone.
your statement that subs with DSP have a humped shaped response makes no sense since the non-DSP FR and the DSP FR will vary for every single different sub. look at the RSL Speedwoofers, they specifically have a reference DSP mode that is meant to be as flat and extended as possible.
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https://rslspeakers.com/products/...7440040214
https://rslspeakers.com/products/...7440040214
https://a.co/d/feNBVub
They also use steel stamped frames (Possible ferrous interference) versus die cast aluminum frames as seen on other products.
Why not mention the Klipsch supperior aluminum voice coil that is lighter and more efficient... meaning less mass the cone has to move as opposed to a heavier copper one that needs to be moved by 1000-2000watt amps for the same output?
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Why not mention the Klipsch supperior aluminum voice coil that is lighter and more efficient... meaning less mass the cone has to move as opposed to a heavier copper one that needs to be moved by 1000-2000watt amps for the same output?
as soon as klipsch comes out with a model that uses aluminum frames then we can do a side by side comparison.
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