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There are 2 hobbies in one with 3d printing. Hobby 1 is getting any non bambu 3d printer, putting it together, troubleshooting the hell out of it, building your own gcode, learning gcode, configuring print profiles for every filament type and brand, finding the perfect slicer, tuning your funky looking print problems, etc etc etc, and very little actual printing. Hobby 2 is buying a bambu so you can avoid all of the above and actually print things with it. I have a friend way into hobby 1. I couldn't get into hobby 1. I am a hobby 2 kind of guy. I want to cad out 3d models and press Ctrl+p and out comes my functional print to test X with. I'm an engineer, and while I could build my own 3d printer from scratch, I don't have time to screw around with hobby 1.
Bambu printers are ideal for people who want the Apple experience with a 3D Printer. It just sort of works, regularly and easily. While other brands have caught up on features, even exceeding in some cases, they're still kind of terrible somehow in the actual experience of use and with issues that come up.
Why this over A1?A1 is $50 cheaper, quieter, and easy nozzle swaps.Typical response I hear is "it's a bed slinger tho" but unless I'm printing tall parts often at high speed, I don't really see that being an issue.All I care about is dimensional accuracy for prototyping in PLA, PETG.
not worth the $50 savings to get a bed slinger. If you are printing fine details that's not necessarily that "tall", the $50 is well spent.
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from OkFinePorcupine
:
Why this over A1?
A1 is $50 cheaper, quieter, and easy nozzle swaps.
Typical response I hear is "it's a bed slinger tho" but unless I'm printing tall parts often at high speed, I don't really see that being an issue.
All I care about is dimensional accuracy for prototyping in PLA, PETG.
I regret buying the A1 instead of this. the main reason is that this needs less space front to back and this one would make a much better fit in my space but both are great printers. Also think AMS is a must even if you are not printing colors. the fact that it can change filament automatically in the middle of the night or being able to have multiple filaments ready is enough to justify it
There are 2 hobbies in one with 3d printing. Hobby 1 is getting any non bambu 3d printer, putting it together, troubleshooting the hell out of it, building your own gcode, learning gcode, configuring print profiles for every filament type and brand, finding the perfect slicer, tuning your funky looking print problems, etc etc etc, and very little actual printing. Hobby 2 is buying a bambu so you can avoid all of the above and actually print things with it. I have a friend way into hobby 1. I couldn't get into hobby 1. I am a hobby 2 kind of guy. I want to cad out 3d models and press Ctrl+p and out comes my functional print to test X with. I'm an engineer, and while I could build my own 3d printer from scratch, I don't have time to screw around with hobby 1.
Totally agree, just hitting print and let it do the work overnight without worrying makes the difference.
There are 2 hobbies in one with 3d printing. Hobby 1 is getting any non bambu 3d printer, putting it together, troubleshooting the hell out of it, building your own gcode, learning gcode, configuring print profiles for every filament type and brand, finding the perfect slicer, tuning your funky looking print problems, etc etc etc, and very little actual printing. Hobby 2 is buying a bambu so you can avoid all of the above and actually print things with it. I have a friend way into hobby 1. I couldn't get into hobby 1. I am a hobby 2 kind of guy. I want to cad out 3d models and press Ctrl+p and out comes my functional print to test X with. I'm an engineer, and while I could build my own 3d printer from scratch, I don't have time to screw around with hobby 1.
This is why, after researching a few months, I went with a P1S and AMS. I LOVE to tinker with the things I love tinkering with. But in this facet of life, I wanted s**t to just print. Most of what I print are parts for other projects (the things I enjoy tinkering with) and I just didn't want to have to tinker with the tool I was using to tinker with other things ...
18 months and I don't know how many print hours later, and I have zero regrets.
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I have the A1 Mini and a Centauri Carbon. The Carbon has been 90% as plug and play as the Mini.
The only thing the Carbon is missing is the dynamic flow calibration, which made a difference with one roll of filament in the dozen or so I've used. And its enclosure means I can print ASA no problem for stuff that lives in my car.
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Jul 25, 2025 04:20 PM
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Joined Nov 2014
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Comment above is absolutely correct. It just works. Others you will have to fine-tune, but it works just as well.
I feel like people are downplaying how much time and trouble it is to find tune other printers. for anyone who is not looking to turn a fun hobby into a second job bambu is the obvious choice.
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Good deal. Shipping is additional $25 in continental USA.
I have an Elegoo Centuari Carbon and I'd say it's a better deal for those wanting to printer higher temperature filaments, but for people who will be sticking with PLA and PETG, the P1P may be a better option. Bambu printers have been battle tested and have a good ecosystem of parts and consumables. While Bambu has a closed system, it allows them to control many aspects of quality. Besides, the Centauri firmware is not open source either which basically nixes the use of many third party tools that Klipper firmware would support. Centauri hotends and nozzles are specific to the printer and are not readily sourced. Most people just want a printer that works and don't want to make a hobby out of tuning and modding their printer. Bambu is a good choice for them.
I'd happily take Bambu's closed source any day of the week…they can make it even more closed source for all I care. Because much like the majority of people, 3d printing isn't my hobby, it's a means to an end. Anyone who was salty about Bambu's decisions were just salty because they know the alternatives suck in comparison, and just wanted to have the best printer while maintaining their "I run Linux, Windows Sucks" ethos.
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from Cujobob
:
Bambu printers are ideal for people who want the Apple experience with a 3D Printer. It just sort of works, regularly and easily. While other brands have caught up on features, even exceeding in some cases, they're still kind of terrible somehow in the actual experience of use and with issues that come up.
I have the Bambu X1C and just picked up an Elegoo Centauri Carbon. While the X1C is something special with its lidar and everything, I've found the Centauri Carbon to be incredible too. The quality of the prints is indistinguishable from each other, and the Elegoo works just as fast as the X1C.
Bambu printers are ideal for people who want the Apple experience with a 3D Printer. It just sort of works, regularly and easily. While other brands have caught up on features, even exceeding in some cases, they're still kind of terrible somehow in the actual experience of use and with issues that come up.
I think comparing it to apple is pretty on the nose. You do get a user friendly experience but it also comes with all the anti consumerism. Only you can decide if it is worth it. The Elegoo centauri Carbon looks like a great alternative.
That's why I now own an X1C. Took me a while to believe the hype enough to buy one though, but no regrets. Only problem is now I want about 5 more...printing things in wood pla with wood texturing takes a crazy long time. I wish there was a way to print the wood texturing just in the walls instead of the interior of the print as well.
Paint the part with wood pla and tell it you only want paint x layers deep. Will add time for filament swap/purge, so depends on part size on whether it's quicker.
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As I understand, when sending a print from Bambu Studio or the P1P ecosystem via cloud services, .3mf print files are uploaded to Bambu Cloud, and those servers are hosted in China. Just FYI and draw your own conclusions.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank macpablo
A1 is $50 cheaper, quieter, and easy nozzle swaps.
Typical response I hear is "it's a bed slinger tho" but unless I'm printing tall parts often at high speed, I don't really see that being an issue.
All I care about is dimensional accuracy for prototyping in PLA, PETG.
18 months and I don't know how many print hours later, and I have zero regrets.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Kithkin
The only thing the Carbon is missing is the dynamic flow calibration, which made a difference with one roll of filament in the dozen or so I've used. And its enclosure means I can print ASA no problem for stuff that lives in my car.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank MadPup
I have an Elegoo Centuari Carbon and I'd say it's a better deal for those wanting to printer higher temperature filaments, but for people who will be sticking with PLA and PETG, the P1P may be a better option. Bambu printers have been battle tested and have a good ecosystem of parts and consumables. While Bambu has a closed system, it allows them to control many aspects of quality. Besides, the Centauri firmware is not open source either which basically nixes the use of many third party tools that Klipper firmware would support. Centauri hotends and nozzles are specific to the printer and are not readily sourced. Most people just want a printer that works and don't want to make a hobby out of tuning and modding their printer. Bambu is a good choice for them.
I'd happily take Bambu's closed source any day of the week…they can make it even more closed source for all I care. Because much like the majority of people, 3d printing isn't my hobby, it's a means to an end. Anyone who was salty about Bambu's decisions were just salty because they know the alternatives suck in comparison, and just wanted to have the best printer while maintaining their "I run Linux, Windows Sucks" ethos.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Kristic
Paint the part with wood pla and tell it you only want paint x layers deep. Will add time for filament swap/purge, so depends on part size on whether it's quicker.
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