frontpagephoinix | Staff posted Yesterday 12:42 PM
Item 1 of 4
Item 1 of 4
frontpagephoinix | Staff posted Yesterday 12:42 PM
Purolator TL10241 PurolatorTECH Spin On Oil Filter
$1.40
$3.33
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I used Fram for decades. All cars made it beyond 286K miles before sold. Engine compression within spec (+72%). No more than 1/2 qt oil consumption every 5K. A good running engine does not put out a lot of contaminants to load up the oil filter under normal driving condition.
The air intake has a potential of dumping a lot more contaminants into the engine. That's why Toyota oil filter is mediocre at efficiency, focusing instead on mass flow rate. As the filter load up with contaminants, its filtration efficiency will improve at the expense of lower oil mass flow rate. Toyota air filter, however, provides excellent dirt removal.
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I used Fram for decades. All cars made it beyond 286K miles before sold. Engine compression within spec (+72%). No more than 1/2 qt oil consumption every 5K. A good running engine does not put out a lot of contaminants to load up the oil filter under normal driving condition.
The air intake has a potential of dumping a lot more contaminants into the engine. That's why Toyota oil filter is mediocre at efficiency, focusing instead on mass flow rate. As the filter load up with contaminants, its filtration efficiency will improve at the expense of lower oil mass flow rate. Toyota air filter, however, provides excellent dirt removal.
I used Fram for decades. All cars made it beyond 286K miles before sold. Engine compression within spec (+72%). No more than 1/2 qt oil consumption every 5K. A good running engine does not put out a lot of contaminants to load up the oil filter under normal driving condition.
The air intake has a potential of dumping a lot more contaminants into the engine. That's why Toyota oil filter is mediocre at efficiency, focusing instead on mass flow rate. As the filter load up with contaminants, its filtration efficiency will improve at the expense of lower oil mass flow rate. Toyota air filter, however, provides excellent dirt removal.
Still quality filter, and probably better than basic Fram.
I used Fram for decades. All cars made it beyond 286K miles before sold. Engine compression within spec (+72%). No more than 1/2 qt oil consumption every 5K. A good running engine does not put out a lot of contaminants to load up the oil filter under normal driving condition.
The air intake has a potential of dumping a lot more contaminants into the engine. That's why Toyota oil filter is mediocre at efficiency, focusing instead on mass flow rate. As the filter load up with contaminants, its filtration efficiency will improve at the expense of lower oil mass flow rate. Toyota air filter, however, provides excellent dirt removal.
why is used oil coming out from toyota always red like blood?
However, a bright or translucent red color can be a more serious issue. In a Toyota, this could indicate:
* Transmission Fluid Contamination: A leak between the transmission and the engine can allow red-dyed transmission fluid to mix with the motor oil. This is a more common cause of bright red oil.
* Engine Coolant Contamination: While coolant is typically green, blue, or pink, a reddish color could be a sign that it is mixing with the oil, which could indicate a head gasket or other serious gasket failure. This is often accompanied by a milky or frothy texture in the oil.
* Fuel Dilution: In some cases, fuel can mix with the oil, which can give it a reddish hue, particularly with certain additives.
Since the color can be caused by several factors, it's important to consider other signs and symptoms to determine the cause.
What other symptoms are you noticing with your Toyota, such as unusual smells, changes in performance, or different textures in the oil?
Motor oil in a new clean burning engine should appear light brown after 5K, mostly from the suspension of combustion byproducts. Dark brown is usually an indication of a neglected engine, or very old motor oil.
Check the oil filler cap for slimy deposit. This is an indication that oil is mixing with water. Also check function of the pcv valve if equipped. May have oil dilution from direct injection if used oil has strong gasoline smell. Most newerToyotas use direct and port injections.
The use of oil additive can also change the color of used oil.
Motor oil in a new clean burning engine should appear light brown after 5K, mostly from the suspension of combustion byproducts. Dark brown is usually an indication of a neglected engine, or very old motor oil.
Check the oil filler cap for slimy deposit. This is an indication that oil is mixing with water. Also check function of the pcv valve if equipped. May have oil dilution from direct injection if used oil has strong gasoline smell. Most newerToyotas use direct and port injections.
The use of oil additive can also change the color of used oil.
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Model number? How many miles on ODO? Did you use oil additives? Brand and viscosity of oil? What is the oil change interval? How much oil does the engine consume? Do you have coolant and/or ATF loss?
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Made in China. Other Purolator filters made in USA. They also cost more.
Still quality filter, and probably better than basic Fram.
I used Fram for decades. All cars made it beyond 286K miles before sold. Engine compression within spec (+72%). No more than 1/2 qt oil consumption every 5K. A good running engine does not put out a lot of contaminants to load up the oil filter under normal driving condition.
The air intake has a potential of dumping a lot more contaminants into the engine. That's why Toyota oil filter is mediocre at efficiency, focusing instead on mass flow rate. As the filter load up with contaminants, its filtration efficiency will improve at the expense of lower oil mass flow rate. Toyota air filter, however, provides excellent dirt removal.
If you ever use an oil filter cutter and open up a fram, you can see that Fram is separated by cardboard. Think about it, most oil filter after market parts are done the exact same way. Do people really think cardboard is perfect material for separation of oil (from contaminated oil to filtered oil)?
If you understand the mechanics behind oil filters and why they are necessary; which is to prevent particles and contaminants reaching the engine and other parts so they dont eventually cause a catastrophic failure. We can see that doing failure analysis on engines that have eventually failed is mostly due to preventive maintenance such as proper oil changes as well as avoiding low oil pressure and over filling oil can eventually cause failures due to abrasive wear (can be much prevented with quality filters), adhesive wear (lack of lubrication and oil), corrosive wear (can happen due to overfilling oil or coolant contamination), erosive wear (can be much prevented with filters) and contact stress fatigue (lack of lubrication or excessive loading, misalignment). As you can see much of failure analysis points to a lack of lubrication/oil and contamination of said lubrication.
SO a good quality filter with properly rated oil is key.
Red usually indicates transmission fluid or hydraulic, you should do an oil analysis (they have shops at every major city) that can tell you whats in your oil. This is not normal unless you have a diesel which uses additives for emission control but some brands can have a slight reddish tone like valvoline.
Yes, used atf oil is usually red-ish color.
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If you ever use an oil filter cutter and open up a fram, you can see that Fram is separated by cardboard. Think about it, most oil filter after market parts are done the exact same way. Do people really think cardboard is perfect material for separation of oil (from contaminated oil to filtered oil)?
If you understand the mechanics behind oil filters and why they are necessary; which is to prevent particles and contaminants reaching the engine and other parts so they dont eventually cause a catastrophic failure. We can see that doing failure analysis on engines that have eventually failed is mostly due to preventive maintenance such as proper oil changes as well as avoiding low oil pressure and over filling oil can eventually cause failures due to abrasive wear (can be much prevented with quality filters), adhesive wear (lack of lubrication and oil), corrosive wear (can happen due to overfilling oil or coolant contamination), erosive wear (can be much prevented with filters) and contact stress fatigue (lack of lubrication or excessive loading, misalignment). As you can see much of failure analysis points to a lack of lubrication/oil and contamination of said lubrication.
SO a good quality filter with properly rated oil is key.
Red usually indicates transmission fluid or hydraulic, you should do an oil analysis (they have shops at every major city) that can tell you whats in your oil. This is not normal unless you have a diesel which uses additives for emission control but some brands can have a slight reddish tone like valvoline.
Most contaminants suspended in the oil come from byproduct of combustion, not metal particles (excluding engine with oil lubricated belt). Youtube has tear down of +300K engines. Crank shaft bearings show virtually no wear. The intake valves look great due to full time port fuel injection. Head gasket failure is often the failure mode due to the corrosive effect of very old coolant.
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