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I picked up the Plus version of this refurbished on eBay for like $220 and honestly it's been a very good printer. Plug and play, no real fiddling to get it to print well. Just have dry filament and calibrate it and you can get some nice prints.
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from VSeven
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I picked up the Plus version of this refurbished on eBay for like $220 and honestly it's been a very good printer. Plug and play, no real fiddling to get it to print well. Just have dry filament and calibrate it and you can get some nice prints.
I stopped drying PLA after extensive testing and watching others do the same. I print a lot of petg and TPU so obviously do a lot of drying and storing. PLA works out the roll for me regardless of company. Even the cheapest of cheapest brand when it comes to pla shows nearly zero print quality difference. Calibrating has everything to do with print quality and will always be a better use of time in my humble opinion.
Anytime I can get a prime haul for filament, I can usually get some super cheap sub $7/kg PLA that prints flawless out of all my printers in a humid north eastern city basement.
I stopped drying PLA after extensive testing and watching others do the same. I print a lot of petg and TPU so obviously do a lot of drying and storing. PLA works out the roll for me regardless of company. Even the cheapest of cheapest brand when it comes to pla shows nearly zero print quality difference. Calibrating has everything to do with print quality and will always be a better use of time in my humble opinion.
Keep in mind that the benefits of drying filament aren't always plainly visible. It can also affect the strength of the print as well.
Quote from VSeven :
I picked up the Plus version of this refurbished on eBay for like $220 and honestly it's been a very good printer. Plug and play, no real fiddling to get it to print well. Just have dry filament and calibrate it and you can get some nice prints.
I stopped drying PLA after extensive testing and watching others do the same. I print a lot of petg and TPU so obviously do a lot of drying and storing. PLA works out the roll for me regardless of company. Even the cheapest of cheapest brand when it comes to pla shows nearly zero print quality difference. Calibrating has everything to do with print quality and will always be a better use of time in my humble opinion.
Anytime I can get a prime haul for filament, I can usually get some super cheap sub $7/kg PLA that prints flawless out of all my printers in a humid north eastern city basement.
Print some PLA thats known to be wet (50%+ humidity) and then the exact same print with dry (>20%) and you will see a difference. And if you can't then try bending them both and see which breaks first. It will print "fine" but drying definitely has a benefit even with PLA. Then with some filament you can't get a decent print until you do like Creality Soleyin PLA which isn't a great filament to begin with but when it's wet it's useless.
Quote from Ohsighrus :
Quote from VSeven :
I picked up the Plus version of this refurbished on eBay for like $220 and honestly it's been a very good printer. Plug and play, no real fiddling to get it to print well. Just have dry filament and calibrate it and you can get some nice prints.
I stopped drying PLA after extensive testing and watching others do the same. I print a lot of petg and TPU so obviously do a lot of drying and storing. PLA works out the roll for me regardless of company. Even the cheapest of cheapest brand when it comes to pla shows nearly zero print quality difference. Calibrating has everything to do with print quality and will always be a better use of time in my humble opinion.
Anytime I can get a prime haul for filament, I can usually get some super cheap sub $7/kg PLA that prints flawless out of all my printers in a humid north eastern city basement.
Print some PLA thats known to be wet (50%+ humidity) and then the exact same print with dry (>20%) and you will see a difference. And if you can't then try bending them both and see which breaks first. It will print "fine" but drying definitely has a benefit even with PLA. Then with some filament you can't get a decent print until you do like Creality Soleyin PLA which isn't a great filament to begin with but when it's wet it's useless.
Creality Soleyin PLA is specifically what I am referencing and I've had none of these issues out the box printing in a humid environment. I don't know what you guys are doing with your prints but nothing is breaking and prints flawless. I've seen plenty of people who have had similar results and suggested others try the same. I suppose we both live in two different realities. Soleyin prefers a much higher heat than what is on the label. Increase it 20c above max and try again.
I got one of these since I miss klipper firmware and as a backup for my Elegoo CC. It is more "travel" friendly than the CC and my kids can use it. Strange that the KE and SE are both more expensive and flimsier (I had both before).
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Quote from VSeven :
Quote from Ohsighrus :
Quote from VSeven :
I picked up the Plus version of this refurbished on eBay for like $220 and honestly it's been a very good printer. Plug and play, no real fiddling to get it to print well. Just have dry filament and calibrate it and you can get some nice prints.
I stopped drying PLA after extensive testing and watching others do the same. I print a lot of petg and TPU so obviously do a lot of drying and storing. PLA works out the roll for me regardless of company. Even the cheapest of cheapest brand when it comes to pla shows nearly zero print quality difference. Calibrating has everything to do with print quality and will always be a better use of time in my humble opinion.
Anytime I can get a prime haul for filament, I can usually get some super cheap sub $7/kg PLA that prints flawless out of all my printers in a humid north eastern city basement.
Print some PLA thats known to be wet (50%+ humidity) and then the exact same print with dry (>20%) and you will see a difference. And if you can't then try bending them both and see which breaks first. It will print "fine" but drying definitely has a benefit even with PLA. Then with some filament you can't get a decent print until you do like Creality Soleyin PLA which isn't a great filament to begin with but when it's wet it's useless.
Creality Soleyin PLA is specifically what I am referencing and I've had none of these issues out the box printing in a humid environment. I don't know what you guys are doing with your prints but nothing is breaking and prints flawless. I've seen plenty of people who have had similar results and suggested others try the same. I suppose we both live in two different realities. Soleyin prefers a much higher heat than what is on the label. Increase it 20c above max and try again.
I've noticed Creality Soleyin PLA does tolerate said better than most, but the layer adhesion is notably worse when its wet in my testing and the plastic a smidge more brittle after extrusion. Some of my other PLA's its a no-go if it sits out.
A little temp bump on a direct extrusion printer probably threads that sweet spot of compensating. Makes sense. Makes it string to hell on bowden setups though.
Hi guys, little off-topic. I have this 3d printer Ender 3 V3, i bought Creality PLA + black and white filaments, and have nothing but problems. I tried various settings I was able to find on the internet and any suggestions Copilot can give me and still to print a anything right. I also bough a better plate and a filament dryer, also Creality.
When print starts, the printer prints couple a lines on the left side and they usually come perfect. Then the head moves to the center to start printing. That is when shit happens - I cannot seem to be able to make it stick, it prints gooey mess, like a small ball of filament stuck to the nozzle. I'l remove it, extrude filament, try printing again, same thing. I've tried various temps, anywhere from 50-65 for the bed and 200 to 220 for the head, no luck.
If anyone can help me out or if you can share your settings for PLA+ Creality filament I'll greatly appreciated.
Also is anyone knows anyplace i can bring my printer to be "fixed" I'll be very thankful (LA area or Northern Nevada)
Hi guys, little off-topic. I have this 3d printer Ender 3 V3, i bought Creality PLA + black and white filaments, and have nothing but problems. I tried various settings I was able to find on the internet and any suggestions Copilot can give me and still to print a anything right. I also bough a better plate and a filament dryer, also Creality. When print starts, the printer prints couple a lines on the left side and they usually come perfect. Then the head moves to the center to start printing. That is when shit happens - I cannot seem to be able to make it stick, it prints gooey mess, like a small ball of filament stuck to the nozzle. I'l remove it, extrude filament, try printing again, same thing. I've tried various temps, anywhere from 50-65 for the bed and 200 to 220 for the head, no luck.If anyone can help me out or if you can share your settings for PLA+ Creality filament I'll greatly appreciated.Also is anyone knows anyplace i can bring my printer to be "fixed" I'll be very thankful (LA area or Northern Nevada)Thank you to anyone wiling to help.
without seeing video for your printer when it's doing this it sounds like it may need the z offset adjusted to bring the nozzle closer to the bed. I bought a used V3 a couple of weeks ago. You have to go into the advanced settings to find the menu option to adjust it. once you've found it create a primitive shape square then reduce only the z measurement to 1mm. increase the size for x and z to about an inch or so away from the edge of the bed then slice it and print it on the printer. while it's running adjust the z offset until you are getting it to stick. you may have to further adjust based on how it looks if it winds up being too close.
without seeing video for your printer when it's doing this it sounds like it may need the z offset adjusted to bring the nozzle closer to the bed. I bought a used V3 a couple of weeks ago. You have to go into the advanced settings to find the menu option to adjust it. once you've found it create a primitive shape square then reduce only the z measurement to 1mm. increase the size for x and z to about an inch or so away from the edge of the bed then slice it and print it on the printer. while it's running adjust the z offset until you are getting it to stick. you may have to further adjust based on how it looks if it winds up being too close.
Thank you Sir, I'll try that. Since it has auto-level, and auto level it before every attempt, i didn't think level might be an issue. If you don't mind me direct-message you, i can send u a pic and vid of what is happening?
Thank you Sir, I'll try that. Since it has auto-level, and auto level it before every attempt, i didn't think level might be an issue. If you don't mind me direct-message you, i can send u a pic and vid of what is happening?
you can send me a message. I primarily use OrcaSlicer now for slicing my files, so I'd be able to help with it to help you get the primitive shape created. when you go to adjust the z offset in the advanced settings increasing the offset positively raises the nozzle and decreasing the value negatively lowers it closer to the bed.
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Anytime I can get a prime haul for filament, I can usually get some super cheap sub $7/kg PLA that prints flawless out of all my printers in a humid north eastern city basement.
I picked up the Plus version of this refurbished on eBay for like $220 and honestly it's been a very good printer. Plug and play, no real fiddling to get it to print well. Just have dry filament and calibrate it and you can get some nice prints.
I stopped drying PLA after extensive testing and watching others do the same. I print a lot of petg and TPU so obviously do a lot of drying and storing. PLA works out the roll for me regardless of company. Even the cheapest of cheapest brand when it comes to pla shows nearly zero print quality difference. Calibrating has everything to do with print quality and will always be a better use of time in my humble opinion.
Anytime I can get a prime haul for filament, I can usually get some super cheap sub $7/kg PLA that prints flawless out of all my printers in a humid north eastern city basement.
Quote from VSeven
I picked up the Plus version of this refurbished on eBay for like $220 and honestly it's been a very good printer. Plug and play, no real fiddling to get it to print well. Just have dry filament and calibrate it and you can get some nice prints.
I stopped drying PLA after extensive testing and watching others do the same. I print a lot of petg and TPU so obviously do a lot of drying and storing. PLA works out the roll for me regardless of company. Even the cheapest of cheapest brand when it comes to pla shows nearly zero print quality difference. Calibrating has everything to do with print quality and will always be a better use of time in my humble opinion.
Anytime I can get a prime haul for filament, I can usually get some super cheap sub $7/kg PLA that prints flawless out of all my printers in a humid north eastern city basement.
Print some PLA thats known to be wet (50%+ humidity) and then the exact same print with dry (>20%) and you will see a difference. And if you can't then try bending them both and see which breaks first. It will print "fine" but drying definitely has a benefit even with PLA. Then with some filament you can't get a decent print until you do like Creality Soleyin PLA which isn't a great filament to begin with but when it's wet it's useless.
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Quote from Ohsighrus
Quote from VSeven
I picked up the Plus version of this refurbished on eBay for like $220 and honestly it's been a very good printer. Plug and play, no real fiddling to get it to print well. Just have dry filament and calibrate it and you can get some nice prints.
I stopped drying PLA after extensive testing and watching others do the same. I print a lot of petg and TPU so obviously do a lot of drying and storing. PLA works out the roll for me regardless of company. Even the cheapest of cheapest brand when it comes to pla shows nearly zero print quality difference. Calibrating has everything to do with print quality and will always be a better use of time in my humble opinion.
Anytime I can get a prime haul for filament, I can usually get some super cheap sub $7/kg PLA that prints flawless out of all my printers in a humid north eastern city basement.
Print some PLA thats known to be wet (50%+ humidity) and then the exact same print with dry (>20%) and you will see a difference. And if you can't then try bending them both and see which breaks first. It will print "fine" but drying definitely has a benefit even with PLA. Then with some filament you can't get a decent print until you do like Creality Soleyin PLA which isn't a great filament to begin with but when it's wet it's useless.
Creality Soleyin PLA is specifically what I am referencing and I've had none of these issues out the box printing in a humid environment. I don't know what you guys are doing with your prints but nothing is breaking and prints flawless. I've seen plenty of people who have had similar results and suggested others try the same. I suppose we both live in two different realities. Soleyin prefers a much higher heat than what is on the label. Increase it 20c above max and try again.
A little temp bump on a direct extrusion printer probably threads that sweet spot of compensating. Makes sense. Makes it string to hell on bowden setups though.
When print starts, the printer prints couple a lines on the left side and they usually come perfect. Then the head moves to the center to start printing. That is when shit happens - I cannot seem to be able to make it stick, it prints gooey mess, like a small ball of filament stuck to the nozzle. I'l remove it, extrude filament, try printing again, same thing. I've tried various temps, anywhere from 50-65 for the bed and 200 to 220 for the head, no luck.
If anyone can help me out or if you can share your settings for PLA+ Creality filament I'll greatly appreciated.
Also is anyone knows anyplace i can bring my printer to be "fixed" I'll be very thankful (LA area or Northern Nevada)
Thank you to anyone wiling to help.
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