frontpagephoinix | Staff posted Jan 26, 2026 08:49 AM
Item 1 of 3
Item 1 of 3
frontpagephoinix | Staff posted Jan 26, 2026 08:49 AM
3-Pack Pentel Hi-Polymer Block Erasers (White)
$2.00
$5.40
62% offAmazon
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https://www.target.com/p/pentel-h...A-13296292
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We no longer use pencils though.
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https://www.target.com/p/pentel-h...A-13296292
https://www.target.com/p/pentel-h...A-13296292
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These seem to stay soft for many years, as someone who rarely uses a pencil that makes more sense than the pink ones which after a year or so get hard and become useless.
This price doesn't seem particularly good though.
The US is 'supposedly' the richest country in the world and we give potatoes to our kids to write.
The US is 'supposedly' the richest country in the world and we give potatoes to our kids to write.
I do a lot of fine-art installation in galleries and collector homes. I never use magic erasers, because they are abrasive and leave a weird sheen on walls and floors. Instead, I always start with one of these soft poly erasers. Pentel is good, but I often have the Mono or Staedtler equivalent. These rarely get the entire mark but will usually remove a lot or most of the physical residue without damaging what's underneath. Unless you've got a massive smear, this is the best first step.
After that, I often follow-up with a Mono sand (typewriter) eraser. This sands out the mark, and so it takes a lot more care, because you may also be removing surface material from the thing you are trying to clean, along with the mark.
If you know what left the mark, sometimes you can get it to lift with other types of cleaners - alcohol re-activates certain inks, but you have to be careful if the wood has an open-pore structure. Heptane is a solvent that reactivates and softens lot of adhesives, and it evaporates quickly. Brillianize is a gentle non-toxic cleaner for acrylics, which is great for many wood surfaces that are poly-finished. Sal-suds in a spray dilution can help lift a lot of oily things without leaving any new residues.
Good luck out there
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I do a lot of fine-art installation in galleries and collector homes. I never use magic erasers, because they are abrasive and leave a weird sheen on walls and floors. Instead, I always start with one of these soft poly erasers. Pentel is good, but I often have the Mono or Staedtler equivalent. These rarely get the entire mark but will usually remove a lot or most of the physical residue without damaging what's underneath. Unless you've got a massive smear, this is the best first step.
After that, I often follow-up with a Mono sand (typewriter) eraser. This sands out the mark, and so it takes a lot more care, because you may also be removing surface material from the thing you are trying to clean, along with the mark.
If you know what left the mark, sometimes you can get it to lift with other types of cleaners - alcohol re-activates certain inks, but you have to be careful if the wood has an open-pore structure. Heptane is a solvent that reactivates and softens lot of adhesives, and it evaporates quickly. Brillianize is a gentle non-toxic cleaner for acrylics, which is great for many wood surfaces that are poly-finished. Sal-suds in a spray dilution can help lift a lot of oily things without leaving any new residues.
Good luck out there
Usually easy to find at art supply stores/shops.
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