Monoprice Indio Helix Flamed Maple Electric Guitar w/ Gig Bag (Blue Burst) $129.99 + Free Shipping via Monoprice

Monoprice would have to do better.

Brothers you can get a nice basswood (no sound cons, preferred lighter, just mind the screws) authentic shaped Stratocaster for $49 shipped! Ebay. I like the rosewood fret board, with white guard, two-tone and grain showing.

This does requires fluffing your our guitar. So if you are not handy at all then go pay more elsewhere, That's fine.

With (maybe) the addition of a $2 bone nut and of course, some spare strings ($5, you'd get anyway), and maybe $1 makeup isle, sanding sponge at the (real $1) dollar store then the rest is a very fun and REWARDING project of setting up your own guitar and it playing and looking as good as a $3500 special.

Yes, the circuitry is modern, not 1950 gear, so a little smaller under the cover; but it works fine and there is no real need to switch them out(with the whole scratch plate; that hole matches). It's not good to to buy overly expensive parts to then trade out on a $49 strat; even if you feel the difference is great. It's not. And some more expensive items are actually worse. There are other ways to reduce hum, for example; which I am not having a problem with (at my local) and I'm keeping the classic strat sound. These ceramic pups are like SRV blues type. Perfect I think. You can hear for yourself, on some free videos. Then should I also feel the need for hum-buckers (heavy metal) then that's best as a second, whole (inexpensive, but not this much) guitar anyway.

Even if you wanted to build your own super custom strat guitar and knowing that cost a LOT more, plus more labour then it still makes since to optionally start with a brand new $49 guitar (for parts?) and customize that. Not just a huge "bump" in upgraded hardware parts cost. But really custom hand-crafted DIY moding tweaks. I am just not a fan of "relic-ing". That's just bad pride and fake. That said; I am not trashing my fine looking guitar just because I scratch the back a little. Practice is what matters. Never give up! Not just pretending like you beat-up your guitar from years of practice. Because, that's never going to match your real performance, if fake.

OK so what to do:

HOW TO MAKE YOUR $49 Strat then second to none:

Search many free online videos, showing you how to do these following things. Vet them carefully. SOME of them are good. Not all. You know the drill.

Actually they arrive fairly setup; but string not stretched in all the way, of course. Once they are then TRAIN what your bought for a base line comparison.

T= Tune. You can use your cell phone. Tip: Install the free Fdroid app/repo (set phone to allow) and get the ad-free tuner there. Two good ones. BOSS included.
R= Rod or your truss ROD. Now don't change it, if it's already fine and be sure which way you are turning it leave level or a SLIGHT (fret-side middle lower) bo
HOW TO MAKE YOUR $49 Strat second to none:w (for anti buzz), between the body and the nut, to level the neck (after huge temp changes). New user just skip this at first ; if it's about level, next to a straight edge.
A = Action or string height (pup height too). Go as low as you can go(amazing), later then back up a little; depending on your style and string bending. These have a preferred fret count, neck length, most FLAT fret board, for sound and play-ability. REALLY good there. Classic Strat design (comfortable to hold, looks great) with natural sound, and resonance. (And effects/modelling can change that to "metal" style anyway).
I = Intonation next. Learn which way to turn each strings Intonation end screw (it is counter intuitive and must be re-tuned after re-tightening each string to re-evaluate the results). Set Generally the first time; as you'll likely be making changes for the next checkup.
N = Noodle around, or that's it really; but just play it and stretch the strings (rightly) to stabilize and RETURN, or now goto (T)rain, and start over.

That's for ANY guitar. And it's best if you learn how to do your own setup; like a pro.

You may want to check your frets for level against each other. All new guitar frets can move/pop, so this is normal. See vids on right way to smooth them; and not to much. Simply, light sanding.

Now you'll notice the frets end (mainly the bottom side) will not be custom rounded for extreme comfort. Mine were not bad; but now are GREATLY improved. See vids on the shape, to easily sand those fret ends, without touching the fret board. A metal nail file might be your friend if you can go easy, before progressively smother sanding ($1 make-up type, nail buffing BLOCK).

You can recondition the fret board if it's dry. Optional. All this is optional; but hit the high points taht make huge differences in play-ability, so practising.

If all this is to much then keep your bridge bending only lower, so it pops back in tune (maybe bumping the whammy bar as needed). Currently I achieved great success finely adjusting a (duel way) floating trem; and surprisingly popping right back into tune. Besides the normal slight string stretch. You just put a old and dead 9V battery (just for it size) behind the block (not the spring side) on the back of your strat (to lock it for main tuning), This is ONLY for your OPTIONAL FLOATING trem. Remove the batt and make only fine adjustments and viola! But you do have to remember the battery when re-tuning. Not a big con.

Some block the trem altogether so negating the whammy bar. Not a fan. If your axe has to do that; it probably needs some other fix. And you still have to re-tune, some time. For stretch or new strings.

Ernie Ball strings ($5, get the normal size ones, unless you know otherwise for you) are probably better than what comes on it. You could save the originals for emergency spares. Be real careful where the string harshly bends around the bridge. Avoid the wire cutting effect. Some say you can slip little wire insulation (finishing) tubes around the string there, to stop breakages!

What else? DO NOT over tighten the row of screws holding the trem. They NEVER go all the way tight and the design let it bend. AND use the very correct screw driver, specific numbered Phillips head, or you will strip out the heads. the one that does not slip.

Don't over-tighten anything as basswood is a little softer. but this is not a problem even if you get a free turning wood stripped screw. A tooth pick in the whole and a TINY drop of super glue completely repairs it nicely. I only had to do this on one of my strap connector screws; and even that is just for sure, 100% weight bearing confidence. If you feel $3500 is a better option for you and don't know; that you'd get too tired holding that weight up for very long time then go for it.

The tuners are not extremely fine grained; but A) are not a problem. And you can use a (bending over) locking method to install strings. And B) you can replace them if it bothers you. Either matching the holes or amending new ones for your preference and costs. Basic wood working fluff is helpful here. If you failed wood shop then (if hole alignment and drilling is required) then trade with a crafty friend. Again. the crap tuners work fine.

OPTIONALLY & Advanced: You can remove the taller string-tree and put the other, less tall string tree in it's place, like a Fender. And clean up the hole. This, depending on your nut height, being correct. Check that it still has no sitar-like, bad sound. it just needs enough angle off the nut. See vids.

The head stock is SIMILAR to the value, Yamaha Strat-ish guitar. I prefer unfinished and unlabelled ones. This doesn't matter. One could learn how to put your name on, in Fender like script style. And other more serious custom work, like a glossy paint colour (black or matching or contrasting) head stock do.

A Squire ("BY" Fender) does have a heavier block and you can probably find a inexpensive used one someone removed. That's been done. It doesn't matter much.

The Nut: Now the nut sucks; but you might get lucky and it works with some tricks. However bone nuts are $20! So with just a little patience, DIY and good vid instruction it's easy to replace the nut AND tune it for height, cut position, back roundness, WITHOUT being to low and lube options. That's all to return to proper tune, after playing and bending. Technically option too; but you will probably need to at least do a few good tricks on the cheap plastic, fast assembled nut. And yet many get lucky and it's great. There is some variability and so what if you have to get an exchange for one damaged in shipping, or something like that. Buy with good options. As usually check rep and policy, etc. And get your before you can't. It's a great time to practice, right?

If you have really decent computer speakers (many do) you can use your decent computer (low latency enough) as an amp and effects. But it's a tricky balance; where most just buy a well rated USB guitar interface.Then you still have to adjust it. I had unusual success, just with built in sound and its mic input. (Linuxmint OS, and clicked to install the virtual PULSE(office apps sharing) sound controls, and the separate JACK(for Instruments) control app, instead of the hacked Windows world's similar requirement for DIRECT sound.) Just Start with Guitar Volume up and everything else down! Mic level then up, just a little bit to properly drive your selected, jack (tricky latency settings balances) virtual (auto to tricky)connected, EFFECTS software adjusted (next) base input. Then it's software output level. Finally (some way, I did HDMI-digital-sound OUTPUT comp to TV (same vid cable), then to decent amplified comp speakers), your real speakers volume starting WAY down low to where normally put(least distortion). This way you can get over-driven and desired distortion effects (usually way too loud) into decent speakers (w/sub woofer?) without also getting a divorce, or jail time!

Point there is, most people give up; on the as-is mic-in computer setup. Because, a lot can be set wrong. That's why I typed it. I achieved a LOW latency, and officially deemed low enough, where strumming sounds instantaneous. And I just turn "Jack" and family back off, when needing to go back to browser shared, normal office type sound output. it's even quite enough for pro recording. But I do have a better sound card with better specs for that. There's a way to do both, if needed. The $100+ red boxed USB sound interface is "better", I guess. Depending on your goals. I'm happy getting out, at around $49!

So now you know if this is for you, or not. Mine even has beautiful wood grain. Beware the myths and accusations. Are you up for it? This is just my report.

Thanks for quoting my hard work before I fixed it.

I can't write worth a damn. So skip it; if that's your problem. Yet if I don't have a problem with people buying $3500 then why should you have a problem with this fun $49 option.

Heck at $49 it's near disposable. It paid off for me! People even buy these, just to decorate walls. And I showed the pros and with the cons. Exactly why these are fun to learn on.

How many kids are stuck at home and would absolutely love one of these $3500 looking guitar grands for $49 and a handy dad? Or handy learning kid.

And the cheap thing was really ready to go out of the box. I just said what's worth changing, in some cases.

Some people get it and some just don't.

Some are sellers. LOL.

Yes, they probably come from Korea(decent stuff), and you might get a bad one, and it may depend on the seller you buy from. I do not sell them or know them in any way.

You can't get a decent used guitar for this new price. Even build your own kits COST MORE.

I would buff the not quite perfect edges (it was done some already) off the fret ends, any day; for these saving. So it's up to you. You can go find a shop setup USED Squire Affinity(recommended if a Squire); but you'll pay about $200 for the pleasure(buffed etc...). That's fine. I like the $150 still in my pocket, minus the original $1 nail sanding block (free and as a done and discarded unit BTW). And having a brand new, unused guitar.

And I liked learning all about it. Why each part and service matters, and why some don't.

Slick deal!

Don't die. [Because we are a health-worker family and WE, the whole Quarantine family are currently risking our lives for you too. No joke.]

My suggestion is we all thank our creator (of time and space) sincerely, for ALL our strength, thus far. And mainly remember, instead of disrespect, His Only Perfect Son with us, who is also that Author, and The finisher of all things. And BELIEVE His claims to be our only, real Life and freedom from LESSER complete death itself.

So where is this $49 Squire?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rose-woo...1954196291

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

If someone is experienced enough to modify this and do a full setup themselves, they probably already own a better guitar and/or their time is worth enough that they may as well buy a $300 guitar that's playable with only minor setup. If you want a project and a super-cheap guitar sounds fun to you, go ahead, I suppose.

As to the deal itself, I don't think I've seen the Indio Helix cheaper before.

What's the best guitar for a beginner who may/may not really get into playing? I don't want to break the bank just yet.

What's the best guitar for a beginner who may/may not really get into playing? I don't want to break the bank just yet.

What's the best guitar for a beginner who may/may not really get into playing? I don't want to break the bank just yet.