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Creality CR-10 V2 3D Printer - $349.00 No Tax, Free US Shipping: Live Again

$349.00
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Just ordered 1 for myself...

Use code "ZPSB02" for $103 dollars off a CR-10 V2 3D printer from Creality.

$452 - $103 = $349.00.


Original Post (Currently Expired): https://slickdeals.net/f/14792947-creality-cr-10-v2-3d-printer-349-00-no-tax-free-shipping?v=1&src=SiteSearch

https://www.creality3dofficial.co...3881284681
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#31
Just ordered this, how long does it take to come?
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#32
Quote from LostViet :
Just ordered this, how long does it take to come?
Ordered 1/27 before noon, received 2/1 in Ohio. Tracking doesn't work though printer was double-boxed in an Amazon.com box and delivered by UPS.
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#33
Quote from connordog :
Ordered 1/27 before noon, received 2/1 in Ohio. Tracking doesn't work though printer was double-boxed in an Amazon.com box and delivered by UPS.
Thank you! Can't wait to use my very first 3d printer Smilie
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#34
Quote from LostViet :
Thank you! Can't wait to use my very first 3d printer Smilie
You are very welcome. If I may, I do have a couple of suggestions for this particular printer...

1) Don't forget to set the voltage to US voltage. It's the first step I completed because once the printer's assembled, the excitement to power up can make you forget this most important step.

2) Use fresh filament. The included mini spool of white filament was brittle and difficult to feed into the extruder.

3) Being our second Creality printer and our largest, I used a combination square for alignment and squaring before tightening everything down to rule out variables which may cause print issues.

4) Take your time to assemble...enjoy the journey. Getting familiar with the parts of the printer is paramount for future upgrades and troubleshooting.

Best of luck!
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#35
Quote from connordog :
Our first, and 1-month old Creality Ender 3 Pro experience has been extremely positive and led to our purchase of this CR-10s. That being said, here's my suggestion..

1) Don't go out and buy a bunch of things you 'think' you need; items commonly known as 'mods' and/or 'upgrades'.
2) Learn to print consistently well with just this printer by leveraging online resources such as youtube videos or other websites that give you tips to print well.
2.a) Learn how to manually level the print bed, watch the first layers go down, make a visual note in your mind what those first lines of goo need to look like. The most common issue we have is adhesion. Don't be afraid to use 'rafts' and slim them down if you wish to minimize waste. We also wipe down our magnetic surface regularly with isopropyl alcohol (IPA).
2.b) print a bunch of small items first to test the config and printer hardware setup and minimize waste if you have issues.
3) Don't automatically assume you have a hardware problem. Assume 1st you've got a configuration problem. Every print consistency issue we've had was profile-related (i.e. settings in the Slicer (like Cura)).
4) Find the cheapest resources for quality filament. We use Inland PLA+ filament from Microcenter. They offer a ridiculous variety of colors for $19+tx shipped.
5) Buy a cheap wireless camera to monitor the print if you're not near the printer to monitor progress/problems.

We did add items to our printer but not by buying them, but rather printing them. 1) a tool holder 2) a storage box 3) and an arm that keeps a nice even bend of the filament leading to the feeder (which you probably won't need).

Good luckhttps://static.slickdealscdn.com/ima...lies/smile.gif
That's the experience I've had with my Ender-3 Pro down to the last comma and period. Got mine for Christmas for $190 with an extra glass bed (that I haven't used) and a handful of extra nozzles for the future.

I'm at the point where I'll finally print my first 10+ hour project. So far I've been concentrating on small prints (mostly for the printer itself) and calibration tests. Only this weekend can I say I finally got a good grasp on manual leveling where all 9 points of my bed are printing a one-layer sheet of 20mmx20mm squares at pretty much the same thickness and bed adhesion.

Helpful Youtube channels:

Maker's Muse
ModBot
Teaching Tech
CHEP
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Last edited by R4M0N February 2, 2021 at 05:49 AM.
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#36
Quote from R4M0N :
That's the experience I've had with my Ender-3 Pro down to the last comma and period. Got mine for Christmas for $190 with an extra glass bed (that I haven't used) and a handful of extra nozzles for the future.

I'm at the point where I'll finally print my first 10+ hour project. So far I've been concentrating on small prints (mostly for the printer itself) and calibration tests. Only this weekend can I say I finally got a good grasp on manual leveling where all 9 points of my bed are printing a one-layer sheet of 20mmx20mm squares at pretty much the same thickness and bed adhesion.

Helpful Youtube channels:

Maker's Muse
ModBot
Teaching Tech
CHEP
Excellent resources. Gonna add Crosslink to the list.

I own a 2012 MacBook Pro and most of the videos, when considering updating the [printer] firmware, discuss the use of Windows PCs. Crosslink has a recent video that walks you through the download and setup process to be able to update the firmware (Marlin or Marlin Variants) used by the Creality printers to print the model.

By 'update' I mean you can literally change the code by activating/updating/inactivating lines of code. This is relevant when adding software-driven print features (like ironing) and added hardware, such as auto-bed-levelers (ABL). Some hardware mfg provided the updated firmware for you and the end-user of the printer is not required to make the updates I noted above.

Another meaning to the word 'update' is moving the firmware file from your Windows machine or MacBook to the physical printer. This requires the use of a cable to connect the Windows or MacBook to the printer. Crosslink, the youtube channel I mention above, walks you through this process as well.


Good luck!
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#37
Quote from connordog :
You are very welcome. If I may, I do have a couple of suggestions for this particular printer...

1) Don't forget to set the voltage to US voltage. It's the first step I completed because once the printer's assembled, the excitement to power up can make you forget this most important step.

2) Use fresh filament. The included mini spool of white filament was brittle and difficult to feed into the extruder.

3) Being our second Creality printer and our largest, I used a combination square for alignment and squaring before tightening everything down to rule out variables which may cause print issues.

4) Take your time to assemble...enjoy the journey. Getting familiar with the parts of the printer is paramount for future upgrades and troubleshooting.

Best of luck!
So should I buy a new roll of filament instead of using the ones that they gave me? Thank you for the info!
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#38
Quote from LostViet :
So should I buy a new roll of filament instead of using the ones that they gave me? Thank you for the info!
Yes. You'll see why the moment you open the box.
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#39
Quote from connordog :
Yes. You'll see why the moment you open the box.
LOL. My first reaction was "will this be enough for anything?"

I was actually surprised at how little filament is used on XYZ cubes and alignment processes. I only started using a "real" roll once I was confident enough to build parts I wanted to keep.

Hatchbox Orange is the trim theme on my Ender 3.

Also bought a spool of black PLA from them and got two spools of PLA+ from Monoprice to try since Hatchbox seems to be having issues replenishing their stock on Amazon.
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#40
One more thing to anyone buying a Creality 3D printer: Join the Creality user group on Facebook.

They are the de-facto Creality support line.
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#41
I have an original Ender 3 and have a few other tips that I think might be helpful.

1. Only print in PLA for a long time until you are able to print reliably and accurately with it. Don't even try to print PETG or ABS yet as those material need more fine tuning and maybe some hardware modifications to your printer to work. (Note: Although they say the PTFE tube should be fine under 250 degrees, for my case even setting it to 240 degrees, I found black burn marks around my PTFE tube near the nozzle, so be careful when printing PETG/ABS around those temps. Capricorn tubing was cheap and easy fix for this and highly recommended.)

2. Learn to level your bed accurately! This is a huge impact on prints and generally, once you do it, you shouldn't have to do it again for a while. (Also, you should make sure movement on all axis are correct, but that should be a given with setup of the printer.)

3. Always watch the first layer or two! If your first layer is good and has good adhesion to the bed, your print is probably going to be OK. But if it fails.. generally, it will fail on the first layer or two.

4. When you get a little bit more advanced and start modeling your own parts, start small and make a lot of measuring parts before deciding on printing something final. You'll notice as good as your printer is, if you try to measure a part that should be 10mm, and you try to make something with a hole of 10mm, it'll probably be a little bit too small. I usually give clearances of +/- .5mm for parts. Also, designing your own custom parts for your house, car, etc.. that's really what I've learned is the most useful and rewarding part of owning a 3D printer! Smilie

5. If you're using a slicer like Cura, you'll notice a lot of settings. Don't get too intimidated.. most of the settings I usually mess with are just: temperature of nozzle, temperature of bed, supports enable/disable, infill percentage, and bed adhesion.

Here's a few safety tips too:

1. I highly recommend installing a webcam next to your printer and also having a wifi switch to be able to turn it off/on remotely. Once you start doing larger prints and are generally not in the same room as the printer, this is an indispensable tool to be able to shut it off safely and not cause any damage to your printer. Also, always try to check in to monitor your print every hour or so just to make sure it's still OK.

2. Make sure you have a smoke detector in the same room as your printer in case of any type of fire hazard. Although there hasn't been many cases of new fires on 3D printers recently that I can remember, I know they've had issues in the past with cheap printers, so better safe than sorry. I also put a fireball extinguisher next to it just in case. Smilie
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Last edited by doggyworld February 2, 2021 at 03:35 PM.
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#42
Quote from Sonicpride :
New to the 3D Print world.

Taking local tax into consideration, is the $70 price difference over an Ender 3 v2 significant? Not sure if it's worth going for this, instead of the Ender 3v2 with some minor upgrades.
I got the ender3 v2 under $230. So for over $100 it shouldn't be worth it for me. I was new as well and it's so easy but there's allot to learn. The extra size has not made a difference for me yet. I saved find of money printing various things. Made money selling things as well. 2 months of printing and the only thing I purchased has been filament. Personally I would tell most people to save your money instead of getting larger. I was thinking about it before hand and glad I got the e3 v2. Learning more about printing will save you more in the long run then upgrades or at least had for me.
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#43
Anyone figure out where to track the shipment? I ordered on 1/25 and it still hasn't arrived. I have a tracking number but there is no data available.
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#44
Quote from deb.co :
Anyone figure out where to track the shipment? I ordered on 1/25 and it still hasn't arrived. I have a tracking number but there is no data available.
Ordered on the 29th, can't track and not here yet.
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#45
Quote from b4basic :
Ordered on the 29th, can't track and not here yet.
Thanks! At least I'm not alone!
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