Advance Auto Parts has 8-Ounce Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant on sale for $6.74 when you apply promo code OFFERS25 in your cart. Select free store pickup where available otherwise shipping is free on $35+ orders.
Thanks to community member GimmeYoTots.
Note: Availability for pickup may vary by location.
PRODUCT DETAILS
Part No. 80078
Warranty Details (30 DAY REPLACEMENT IF DEFECTIVE)
A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60 Deg. F to 1600 Deg. F (-51 Deg. C to 871 Deg. C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant - ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*
Product Features:
Highly refined blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite lubricants
Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant
Prevents galling, corrosion and seizing to assure easier disassembly
Temperature Range: -60 Deg. F to 1600 Deg. F (-51 Deg. C to 871 Deg. C)
Tldr; Do NOT use this on water heater anodes.
1. It product is VERY toxic when ingested, take no chances.
2. It is not a protective dielectric grease or designed to be used as a safe conductive grease;the metals in the grease itself can react with the anode/tank and actually cause corrosion problems. Which in turn will act as a barrier to the electron exchange between the anode and the steel of the heater tank. This means that it would limit or prevent the anode from doing it's job. (Unfortunately most conductive grease is also very toxic)
You'll find your anode is in great condition after you have to replace your rusted out water heater. The anode MUST have a good electrical contact to the steel tank to work, and serve it's purpose as a sacrificial anode. 👍
I would also advise against heavily wrapping the anode threads with Teflon tape for the exact same reason. If you only do about two layers you might be okay, because while screwing the anode into the tank fitting the abrasion of the thread should cut the Teflon enough to allow the edges of the thread to come in contact with a threads of the tank fitting. The surfaces of the threads that contact between the anode and tank will still corrode and bind together, but it will be a much smaller surface area. I don't know how much the reduced contact surface would affect the function of the anode, so it's up to you if you want to take that chance or not.
My advice to you is to do one of two things; number one would be to give the anode a quarter turn every 6 months and then turn it back to break loose any fused surfaces.
Number two would be to look for an anode that has a brass threading or brass plating over the threads. This will dramatically reduce the amount of galvanic corrosion that will occur between the threads of the anode and the steel tank. You should be able to find that feature in any high-end anode, but for a $ price. If you really wanted to, before installation, you could easily heat up the threading of the anode with a torch and then rub a brass wire brush over the surface to give it a light coating a brass over the surface of the threads, basically a do-it-yourself plating for the anode.
I would generally recommend the 6 month turn method, but it just depends on how much you think your time is worth.
Anyone know which antiseize I should use for garden hose/spigot? My garden hose got stuck to spigot last summer and had to be cut.
When it comes to temporary threaded water connections, teflon tape is king. Easy to put on, easy to take off, fairly cheap and doesn't have any mess or contaminant risk/issues. You can get a roll of it at any hardware store for about a buck each. 👍
Personally I prefer to use a marine-grade anti-seize in any situation where I'd want to use anti-seize. Any anti-seize that contains metallic elements doesn't fully protect you in situations where there's exposure to salt plus water since there's ultimately still a dissimilar levels of charge. I.E. if you were trying to use anti-seize to protect your aluminum calipers from steel fasteners, that's not going to help much after salty winters + high temps from heavy breaking.
The marine-grade stuff uses a completely inert ceramic suspension to get the job done instead.
The purpose of dielectric grease is to prevent oxidation or electrical arching so it's not a conductor but when two metal surfaces are connected with some pressure in its very thin layer it won't prevent from them making energy transfer.
On the other hand if "conducting" grease is used but has wrong formulation it can cause wrong effect since it has certain metals inside that might not be a good match to join connection on different metals, that's why they usually specify which metals are ok to use it on (copper to copper, aluminum to aluminum, etc).
Yep, got it in one.
I probably should have phrased things differently or explained a bit further in my original post, but was getting a bit too off-thread as it was. Easy to get tripped up explaining sometimes when forgetting that some things aren't just general knowledge.
I don't visit the site more than once every day or two, so thanks for jumping in to explain. 👍
Another happy customer in the rust belt who uses on vehicle hubs for making tire changes easy. One little kick and the wheel is off. It's like magic. I smile every time.
Looks like my attachment got removed. It circled the directions on the back that has warning message not to use this on lug nuts or studs.
It's there, just doesn't show on the app.
To quickly sum up your helpful video, he says to put lug nuts on dry and torqued to manufacturer specs because lubing them will possibly stretch them beyond their limits. He uses an expensive gauge and math to prove his point.
IMO, there's no need for antiseize anyways as if you are properly rotating your tires, they won't be on long enough to need it.
To quickly sum up your helpful video, he says to put lug nuts on dry and torqued to manufacturer specs because lubing them will possibly stretch them beyond their limits. He uses an expensive gauge and math to prove his point.
IMO, there's no need for antiseize anyways as if you are properly rotating your tires, they won't be on long enough to need it.
Yeah, good summary. He showed that adding anti-seize increased the stress on the studs by about 50% and brought studs close to their yield strength. An unsafe condition for wheels which will be under variable load from operating the car. And that's assuming they are torqued accurately.
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1. It product is VERY toxic when ingested, take no chances.
2. It is not a protective dielectric grease or designed to be used as a safe conductive grease;the metals in the grease itself can react with the anode/tank and actually cause corrosion problems. Which in turn will act as a barrier to the electron exchange between the anode and the steel of the heater tank. This means that it would limit or prevent the anode from doing it's job. (Unfortunately most conductive grease is also very toxic)
You'll find your anode is in great condition after you have to replace your rusted out water heater. The anode MUST have a good electrical contact to the steel tank to work, and serve it's purpose as a sacrificial anode. 👍
If you want to know more, here is a decent wikipedia on the subject.
https://en.m.wikipedia.
I would also advise against heavily wrapping the anode threads with Teflon tape for the exact same reason. If you only do about two layers you might be okay, because while screwing the anode into the tank fitting the abrasion of the thread should cut the Teflon enough to allow the edges of the thread to come in contact with a threads of the tank fitting. The surfaces of the threads that contact between the anode and tank will still corrode and bind together, but it will be a much smaller surface area. I don't know how much the reduced contact surface would affect the function of the anode, so it's up to you if you want to take that chance or not.
My advice to you is to do one of two things; number one would be to give the anode a quarter turn every 6 months and then turn it back to break loose any fused surfaces.
Number two would be to look for an anode that has a brass threading or brass plating over the threads. This will dramatically reduce the amount of galvanic corrosion that will occur between the threads of the anode and the steel tank. You should be able to find that feature in any high-end anode, but for a $ price. If you really wanted to, before installation, you could easily heat up the threading of the anode with a torch and then rub a brass wire brush over the surface to give it a light coating a brass over the surface of the threads, basically a do-it-yourself plating for the anode.
I would generally recommend the 6 month turn method, but it just depends on how much you think your time is worth.
https://www.menards.com/main/tool...207395.h
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The marine-grade stuff uses a completely inert ceramic suspension to get the job done instead.
On the other hand if "conducting" grease is used but has wrong formulation it can cause wrong effect since it has certain metals inside that might not be a good match to join connection on different metals, that's why they usually specify which metals are ok to use it on (copper to copper, aluminum to aluminum, etc).
I probably should have phrased things differently or explained a bit further in my original post, but was getting a bit too off-thread as it was. Easy to get tripped up explaining sometimes when forgetting that some things aren't just general knowledge.
I don't visit the site more than once every day or two, so thanks for jumping in to explain. 👍
Wear gloves and still plan on getting it where it shouldn't.
You're not supposed to use this on lug studs.
Wear gloves and still plan on getting it where it shouldn't.
You're not supposed to use this on lug studs.
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To quickly sum up your helpful video, he says to put lug nuts on dry and torqued to manufacturer specs because lubing them will possibly stretch them beyond their limits. He uses an expensive gauge and math to prove his point.
IMO, there's no need for antiseize anyways as if you are properly rotating your tires, they won't be on long enough to need it.
To quickly sum up your helpful video, he says to put lug nuts on dry and torqued to manufacturer specs because lubing them will possibly stretch them beyond their limits. He uses an expensive gauge and math to prove his point.
IMO, there's no need for antiseize anyways as if you are properly rotating your tires, they won't be on long enough to need it.
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