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Obviously it doesn't take critical thinking to know you can't print an 8in vase with a build plate that is as small as whats on the Zero or even Mono, but as some have previously mentioned it kills for miniatures and multi-part models.
The thing people don't get looking outward in when comparing to an FDM is supports. Supports in resin printers can do what only FDM could ever dream of - stacking.
I can set a Photon Zero to print 15 minitures at once and go to sleep. Drop the entire build plate into a bucket of water and in 3 minutes that pile of lines and solids falls apart almost like butter. My Ender 3 V2 can't touch it for this use case.
And while it easily doesn't apply to all its disingenuous to compare a tool meant for other prints against one meant for this.
This thread... Guys, it's $100 bucks for the zero. Of course don't buy this for big prints, but man, if you are looking to print minis or small pieces, this is a great deal.
Mars 2 vs Mono.... trade blows... roughly the same with nearly every reason to get one or the other being trivial. Best Price is truly the only deciding factor.
Between Saturn and Mono X...Mono X has a superior build size with a longer Z axis.
MASSIVE EDIT: Oops, entirely forgot the Mono uses pretensioned FEP sheet inserts so the Elegoo models can use cheaper do it yourself FEP sheets. Anycubic just recently got them back in stock so folks needing them have been SOL. I'm super lazy so I'm willing to pay for this feature, but if you are used to tensioning your own FEP that a large strike against Anycubic Mono.
Another thing to consider about the Mono X is that it uses a proprietary firmware/motherboard, so you're p much dependent on them for making any improvements. People have begged for an option to turn off the transitional layers at the beginning for a while now, for example.
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from mbrulla
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I buy rolls of FEP for my Mono X. Works just fine. I've ever heard of this being different on the base Mono.
Unrelated but can you printing pros recommend a good FDM to start with, not a kit, just a a nice enclosed printer that I can buy already put together?
You'll get a hundred opinions, but I've personally been very happy with the quality and results of FlashForge printers. They come in a range of prices and options, and while they may not have all the latest hotness, they are dependable, solid and relatively worry-free. Great for beginners and anyone who doesn't plan to build their own.
You'll get a hundred opinions, but I've personally been very happy with the quality and results of FlashForge printers. They come in a range of prices and options, and while they may not have all the latest hotness, they are dependable, solid and relatively worry-free. Great for beginners and anyone who doesn't plan to build their own.
Thanks for the reply - I had seen this in my initial search a few weeks ago.. Seems to be reviewed rather well?
Wow very scary stuff and i was gonna buy one not anymore. I do customs and this would of been a dream come true . If only i had a garage or outside work area i could use.
It may sound like a bigger deal than it is.
Small disclaimer: Verify these on your own, as I'm only recalling what I've read/seen.
So technically you can get an cheap enclosure for FDM and vent to outside if you have a window. For resin or FDM, you can probably just place it near a window with a fan for ventilation. Resin just requires a bigger workspace for cleanup.
For the bird thing, iirc, heating the ptfe tube (bowden tube) to 200º+ may be harmful, 250º+ is serious. You probably will be fine printing PLA. Note that there's a boat load of stuff that can offgas PTFE like Teflon coated pans if you get them hot enough.
For FDM, PLA is generally considered safe, but not really much data is available on particulates created by printers of any variety. ABS/PETG you want to vent, TPU probably fine.
For Resin, that's where good ventilation is generally recommended.
I run my printers in the garage, but plenty of people run them indoors. IMO you should have decent ventilation regardless.
Was anyone here able to find a good use for Zero? Like I can think of printing additional/substitute minifigs for board games occasionally, but other than that I can't see any way to use it constantly or make money out of it. Thoughts?
cosplay accessories.
models based on anime/movies/(video)games.
So you basically answered my question. SLA printing is for model making and detailed manufacturing, but in every other category it fails in. And to compare the extreme toxicity of SLA resin to FDM is absurd. I can print any object on my FDM without worrying about adding toxic fluid to the machine, cleaning the component with gloves, curing it, and then disposing the toxic liquid after.
I don't know why you took my question personal and felt attacked by it, but SLA at this time is simply for model makers who don't care about the toxicity of the material. If you believe handling cancerous materials is comparable to FDM, good luck.
The difference is curing UV resin is a well known and large industry, so you can manage it appropriately. No one has the hard data to say that the offgasing or ultra fine particulates from FDM are safe long-term without proper ventilation, and that's strictly speaking PLA.ABS is not safe without ventilation. You dispose of the liquid by curing it, that's it. If you have the hard data, please link the science articles cause I'd love to read them. Yes SLA requires greater care, but minifigs are not the only thing it's used for. Jewelry, lost wax casting with minimal post-processing, cosplay accessories, etc etc. It's a hobbyist tool, if you don't need it, can't find a use for it, or can't manage it properly, don't get it. If you're looking to do large assemblies for engineering proof of concepts, large rapid prototyped parts, parts with good tensile strengths, or large cosplay pieces then you already know this isn't the right tool.
Unrelated but can you printing pros recommend a good FDM to start with, not a kit, just a a nice enclosed printer that I can buy already put together?
what's your budget? and how much do you want to mess with it even if it's preassembled?
Most consumer printers require some form of management, upkeep, calibration, tlc, etc. Even the ones that are $5k+. However, generally (but not always), the higher you go in price the less hassle it will be because the quality is better.
The most recommended consumer printer that can come as a kit or preassembled is the PRUSA i3 MK3S+ ($1000). It has a large community, customer support, and is the original printer of that style that most of the clones (CR10, etc) are made from. They have a free slicer that rivals CURA (ultimaker printers) and a good knowledge base. It is, however, not enclosed.
I'm well adjusted to FDM printing, but so far all I see SLA being used for is model making. Is there any other use for SLA than the detail that model making requires? Seems like FDM is better in all aspects than that, especially including the toxic chemicals and cleanup.
FDM is way more fiddly and requires constant calibration of your machine to achieve good results. Any prints with supports require a lot more post processing with FDM than SLA.
Resins are toxic chemicals but not any more toxic than epoxies or solvents like IPA, Acetone, Paint Thinner, or Naptha. If you do any sort of wood working, automotive painting, or painted your fingernails then you've used these types of chemicals and know how to handle them.
Operating an SLA printer isn't like having a bucket of Acetone in a closed room off gassing. You want ventilation but a simple extractor fan or putting it in a garage is more than sufficient. You take the level of care you would if you were printing ABS on an FDM printer.
New to 3d printing, but not intimidated by it. Is this a good printer to start with? I don't need to start at beginner
Either the Zero or the Mono are good. Even later on you decide to go in on Mid-tier size like the Mono X or even larger, the smaller units will get use.
One, its just nice to have multiple printers for time and speeds sake. Two, you'll always use every printer you have because of this.
For example: Printing the Infinity Stone glove from Avengers. You can use a larger printer for the main glove and that could take you awhile... in the meantime your smaller printers can be used to print translucent resin for the Infinity Stones themselves. Expediting the entire print. Not to mention, Three, you can dedicate printers to specific resins so that you don't have to keep cleaning up vats to swap material.
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I personally do not use it, but do know for a fact its extremely easy to use and consistent results. I do not know how loud it it is though in a home environment... I have not been a fan of enclosed printers for the difficulty in upgrading.
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The thing people don't get looking outward in when comparing to an FDM is supports. Supports in resin printers can do what only FDM could ever dream of - stacking.
I can set a Photon Zero to print 15 minitures at once and go to sleep. Drop the entire build plate into a bucket of water and in 3 minutes that pile of lines and solids falls apart almost like butter. My Ender 3 V2 can't touch it for this use case.
And while it easily doesn't apply to all its disingenuous to compare a tool meant for other prints against one meant for this.
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now I'm going to read
Well... I read everything... good for making stinky mini Yodas that are rubbery until they dry near a window without a cat
Between Saturn and Mono X...Mono X has a superior build size with a longer Z axis.
MASSIVE EDIT: Oops, entirely forgot the Mono uses pretensioned FEP sheet inserts so the Elegoo models can use cheaper do it yourself FEP sheets. Anycubic just recently got them back in stock so folks needing them have been SOL. I'm super lazy so I'm willing to pay for this feature, but if you are used to tensioning your own FEP that a large strike against Anycubic Mono.
A lot of people buy a third party (Sovol) vat to replace the stock one.
Got the Mono. Thanks OP!
https://www.amazon.com/Flashforge...as
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Small disclaimer: Verify these on your own, as I'm only recalling what I've read/seen.
So technically you can get an cheap enclosure for FDM and vent to outside if you have a window. For resin or FDM, you can probably just place it near a window with a fan for ventilation. Resin just requires a bigger workspace for cleanup.
For the bird thing, iirc, heating the ptfe tube (bowden tube) to 200º+ may be harmful, 250º+ is serious. You probably will be fine printing PLA. Note that there's a boat load of stuff that can offgas PTFE like Teflon coated pans if you get them hot enough.
For FDM, PLA is generally considered safe, but not really much data is available on particulates created by printers of any variety. ABS/PETG you want to vent, TPU probably fine.
For Resin, that's where good ventilation is generally recommended.
I run my printers in the garage, but plenty of people run them indoors. IMO you should have decent ventilation regardless.
models based on anime/movies/(video)games.
I don't know why you took my question personal and felt attacked by it, but SLA at this time is simply for model makers who don't care about the toxicity of the material. If you believe handling cancerous materials is comparable to FDM, good luck.
Most consumer printers require some form of management, upkeep, calibration, tlc, etc. Even the ones that are $5k+. However, generally (but not always), the higher you go in price the less hassle it will be because the quality is better.
The most recommended consumer printer that can come as a kit or preassembled is the PRUSA i3 MK3S+ ($1000). It has a large community, customer support, and is the original printer of that style that most of the clones (CR10, etc) are made from. They have a free slicer that rivals CURA (ultimaker printers) and a good knowledge base. It is, however, not enclosed.
Resins are toxic chemicals but not any more toxic than epoxies or solvents like IPA, Acetone, Paint Thinner, or Naptha. If you do any sort of wood working, automotive painting, or painted your fingernails then you've used these types of chemicals and know how to handle them.
Operating an SLA printer isn't like having a bucket of Acetone in a closed room off gassing. You want ventilation but a simple extractor fan or putting it in a garage is more than sufficient. You take the level of care you would if you were printing ABS on an FDM printer.
One, its just nice to have multiple printers for time and speeds sake. Two, you'll always use every printer you have because of this.
For example: Printing the Infinity Stone glove from Avengers. You can use a larger printer for the main glove and that could take you awhile... in the meantime your smaller printers can be used to print translucent resin for the Infinity Stones themselves. Expediting the entire print. Not to mention, Three, you can dedicate printers to specific resins so that you don't have to keep cleaning up vats to swap material.
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https://www.amazon.com/Flashforge...ast_sto_dp [amazon.com]
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