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Anycubic 3D Resin Printers: Photon Mono $189, Photon Zero Expired
$99
$219.00
+ Free Shipping
Anycubic.com has Anycubic Photon Zero 3D Resin Printer for $109 - $10 w/ discount code QHE4DJSA5YX2 = $99. Shipping is free.
Also available, Anycubic.com has Anycubic Photon Mono 3D Resin Printer for $199 - $10 w/ discount code QHE4DJSA5YX2 = $189. Shipping is free.
Thanks to community member cyciumx for finding this deal.
Also available, Anycubic.com has Anycubic Photon Mono 3D Resin Printer for $199 - $10 w/ discount code QHE4DJSA5YX2 = $189. Shipping is free.
Thanks to community member cyciumx for finding this deal.
Original Post
Written by
Edited May 25, 2021
at 12:15 PM
Enter code at checkout: QHE4DJSA5YX2
I've bought before and AnyCubic ships from the states so you will get this within a week. They don't charge tax in CA so likely tax free for almost anyone.
Free shipping if you order just the printer. If you buy extra parts and accessories they will charge $15 flat rate.
https://www.anycubic.co
https://www.anycubic.co
I've bought before and AnyCubic ships from the states so you will get this within a week. They don't charge tax in CA so likely tax free for almost anyone.
Free shipping if you order just the printer. If you buy extra parts and accessories they will charge $15 flat rate.
https://www.anycubic.co
https://www.anycubic.co
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The thing people don't get looking outward in when comparing to an FDM is supports. Supports in resin printers can do what only FDM could ever dream of - stacking.
I can set a Photon Zero to print 15 minitures at once and go to sleep. Drop the entire build plate into a bucket of water and in 3 minutes that pile of lines and solids falls apart almost like butter. My Ender 3 V2 can't touch it for this use case.
And while it easily doesn't apply to all its disingenuous to compare a tool meant for other prints against one meant for this.
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Between Saturn and Mono X...Mono X has a superior build size with a longer Z axis.
MASSIVE EDIT: Oops, entirely forgot the Mono uses pretensioned FEP sheet inserts so the Elegoo models can use cheaper do it yourself FEP sheets. Anycubic just recently got them back in stock so folks needing them have been SOL. I'm super lazy so I'm willing to pay for this feature, but if you are used to tensioning your own FEP that a large strike against Anycubic Mono.
I buy rolls of FEP for my Mono X. Works just fine. I've ever heard of this being different on the base Mono.
now I'm going to read
Well... I read everything... good for making stinky mini Yodas that are rubbery until they dry near a window without a cat
Between Saturn and Mono X...Mono X has a superior build size with a longer Z axis.
MASSIVE EDIT: Oops, entirely forgot the Mono uses pretensioned FEP sheet inserts so the Elegoo models can use cheaper do it yourself FEP sheets. Anycubic just recently got them back in stock so folks needing them have been SOL. I'm super lazy so I'm willing to pay for this feature, but if you are used to tensioning your own FEP that a large strike against Anycubic Mono.
A lot of people buy a third party (Sovol) vat to replace the stock one.
Got the Mono. Thanks OP!
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https://www.amazon.com/Flashforge...as
Small disclaimer: Verify these on your own, as I'm only recalling what I've read/seen.
So technically you can get an cheap enclosure for FDM and vent to outside if you have a window. For resin or FDM, you can probably just place it near a window with a fan for ventilation. Resin just requires a bigger workspace for cleanup.
For the bird thing, iirc, heating the ptfe tube (bowden tube) to 200º+ may be harmful, 250º+ is serious. You probably will be fine printing PLA. Note that there's a boat load of stuff that can offgas PTFE like Teflon coated pans if you get them hot enough.
For FDM, PLA is generally considered safe, but not really much data is available on particulates created by printers of any variety. ABS/PETG you want to vent, TPU probably fine.
For Resin, that's where good ventilation is generally recommended.
I run my printers in the garage, but plenty of people run them indoors. IMO you should have decent ventilation regardless.
models based on anime/movies/(video)games.
I don't know why you took my question personal and felt attacked by it, but SLA at this time is simply for model makers who don't care about the toxicity of the material. If you believe handling cancerous materials is comparable to FDM, good luck.
Most consumer printers require some form of management, upkeep, calibration, tlc, etc. Even the ones that are $5k+. However, generally (but not always), the higher you go in price the less hassle it will be because the quality is better.
The most recommended consumer printer that can come as a kit or preassembled is the PRUSA i3 MK3S+ ($1000). It has a large community, customer support, and is the original printer of that style that most of the clones (CR10, etc) are made from. They have a free slicer that rivals CURA (ultimaker printers) and a good knowledge base. It is, however, not enclosed.
Phrozen 4k maybe. If you just want to go all out right away
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Resins are toxic chemicals but not any more toxic than epoxies or solvents like IPA, Acetone, Paint Thinner, or Naptha. If you do any sort of wood working, automotive painting, or painted your fingernails then you've used these types of chemicals and know how to handle them.
Operating an SLA printer isn't like having a bucket of Acetone in a closed room off gassing. You want ventilation but a simple extractor fan or putting it in a garage is more than sufficient. You take the level of care you would if you were printing ABS on an FDM printer.