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Anycubic 3D Resin Printers: Photon Mono $189, Photon Zero EXPIRED

$99
$219.00
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Anycubic.com has Anycubic Photon Zero 3D Resin Printer for $109 - $10 w/ discount code QHE4DJSA5YX2 = $99. Shipping is free.

Also available, Anycubic.com has Anycubic Photon Mono 3D Resin Printer for $199 - $10 w/ discount code QHE4DJSA5YX2 = $189. Shipping is free.

Thanks to community member cyciumx for finding this deal.
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Edited May 25, 2021 at 12:15 PM by
Enter code at checkout: QHE4DJSA5YX2

I've bought before and AnyCubic ships from the states so you will get this within a week. They don't charge tax in CA so likely tax free for almost anyone.

Free shipping if you order just the printer. If you buy extra parts and accessories they will charge $15 flat rate.

https://www.anycubic.com/collecti...3d-printer

https://www.anycubic.com/collecti...hoton-zero
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HIDDEN
05-23-2021 at 08:25 PM
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Joined Jun 2009
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#62
Quote from cyciumx :
Mars 2 vs Mono.... trade blows... roughly the same with nearly every reason to get one or the other being trivial. Best Price is truly the only deciding factor.

Between Saturn and Mono X...Mono X has a superior build size with a longer Z axis.

MASSIVE EDIT: Oops, entirely forgot the Mono uses pretensioned FEP sheet inserts so the Elegoo models can use cheaper do it yourself FEP sheets. Anycubic just recently got them back in stock so folks needing them have been SOL. I'm super lazy so I'm willing to pay for this feature, but if you are used to tensioning your own FEP that a large strike against Anycubic Mono.
I buy rolls of FEP for my Mono X. Works just fine. I've ever heard of this being different on the base Mono.
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Joined Apr 2008
One ... more ... deal
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#63
Before I read this post I have to ask : if I buy this will I have a future of molding millions of mini Yodas?

now I'm going to read

Well... I read everything... good for making stinky mini Yodas that are rubbery until they dry near a window without a cat
Wavelaugh out loudlaugh out loudlaugh out loudLMAOApplausePeace
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Last edited by iguana May 24, 2021 at 09:24 AM.
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#64
Quote from cyciumx :
Mars 2 vs Mono.... trade blows... roughly the same with nearly every reason to get one or the other being trivial. Best Price is truly the only deciding factor.

Between Saturn and Mono X...Mono X has a superior build size with a longer Z axis.

MASSIVE EDIT: Oops, entirely forgot the Mono uses pretensioned FEP sheet inserts so the Elegoo models can use cheaper do it yourself FEP sheets. Anycubic just recently got them back in stock so folks needing them have been SOL. I'm super lazy so I'm willing to pay for this feature, but if you are used to tensioning your own FEP that a large strike against Anycubic Mono.
Another thing to consider about the Mono X is that it uses a proprietary firmware/motherboard, so you're p much dependent on them for making any improvements. People have begged for an option to turn off the transitional layers at the beginning for a while now, for example.

Quote from mbrulla :
I buy rolls of FEP for my Mono X. Works just fine. I've ever heard of this being different on the base Mono.
It's true: https://youtu.be/FXOh0UnmXE0
A lot of people buy a third party (Sovol) vat to replace the stock one.
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Joined May 2021
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#65
New to 3d printing, but not intimidated by it. Is this a good printer to start with? I don't need to start at beginner
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#66
Unrelated but can you printing pros recommend a good FDM to start with, not a kit, just a a nice enclosed printer that I can buy already put together?
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Joined Feb 2005
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#67
Got one and the wash station. My son has been using his Creality CR10 V2 for models, but this will make more more detailed figures.

Got the Mono. Thanks OP!
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Joined May 2014
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#68
Quote from ThatDudeButch :
Unrelated but can you printing pros recommend a good FDM to start with, not a kit, just a a nice enclosed printer that I can buy already put together?
You'll get a hundred opinions, but I've personally been very happy with the quality and results of FlashForge printers. They come in a range of prices and options, and while they may not have all the latest hotness, they are dependable, solid and relatively worry-free. Great for beginners and anyone who doesn't plan to build their own.
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#69
Quote from VeryVito :
You'll get a hundred opinions, but I've personally been very happy with the quality and results of FlashForge printers. They come in a range of prices and options, and while they may not have all the latest hotness, they are dependable, solid and relatively worry-free. Great for beginners and anyone who doesn't plan to build their own.
Thanks for the reply - I had seen this in my initial search a few weeks ago.. Seems to be reviewed rather well?

https://www.amazon.com/Flashforge...ast_sto_dp
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#70
Quote from GP1323 :
Wow very scary stuff and i was gonna buy one not anymore. I do customs and this would of been a dream come true . If only i had a garage or outside work area i could use.
It may sound like a bigger deal than it is.
Small disclaimer: Verify these on your own, as I'm only recalling what I've read/seen.

So technically you can get an cheap enclosure for FDM and vent to outside if you have a window. For resin or FDM, you can probably just place it near a window with a fan for ventilation. Resin just requires a bigger workspace for cleanup.

For the bird thing, iirc, heating the ptfe tube (bowden tube) to 200º+ may be harmful, 250º+ is serious. You probably will be fine printing PLA. Note that there's a boat load of stuff that can offgas PTFE like Teflon coated pans if you get them hot enough.

For FDM, PLA is generally considered safe, but not really much data is available on particulates created by printers of any variety. ABS/PETG you want to vent, TPU probably fine.

For Resin, that's where good ventilation is generally recommended.

I run my printers in the garage, but plenty of people run them indoors. IMO you should have decent ventilation regardless.
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#71
Quote from lolopolo :
Was anyone here able to find a good use for Zero? Like I can think of printing additional/substitute minifigs for board games occasionally, but other than that I can't see any way to use it constantly or make money out of it. Thoughts?
cosplay accessories.
models based on anime/movies/(video)games.
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#72
Quote from 23EE :
So you basically answered my question. SLA printing is for model making and detailed manufacturing, but in every other category it fails in. And to compare the extreme toxicity of SLA resin to FDM is absurd. I can print any object on my FDM without worrying about adding toxic fluid to the machine, cleaning the component with gloves, curing it, and then disposing the toxic liquid after.

I don't know why you took my question personal and felt attacked by it, but SLA at this time is simply for model makers who don't care about the toxicity of the material. If you believe handling cancerous materials is comparable to FDM, good luck.
The difference is curing UV resin is a well known and large industry, so you can manage it appropriately. No one has the hard data to say that the offgasing or ultra fine particulates from FDM are safe long-term without proper ventilation, and that's strictly speaking PLA.ABS is not safe without ventilation. You dispose of the liquid by curing it, that's it. If you have the hard data, please link the science articles cause I'd love to read them. Yes SLA requires greater care, but minifigs are not the only thing it's used for. Jewelry, lost wax casting with minimal post-processing, cosplay accessories, etc etc. It's a hobbyist tool, if you don't need it, can't find a use for it, or can't manage it properly, don't get it. If you're looking to do large assemblies for engineering proof of concepts, large rapid prototyped parts, parts with good tensile strengths, or large cosplay pieces then you already know this isn't the right tool.
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#73
Quote from ThatDudeButch :
Unrelated but can you printing pros recommend a good FDM to start with, not a kit, just a a nice enclosed printer that I can buy already put together?
what's your budget? and how much do you want to mess with it even if it's preassembled?

Most consumer printers require some form of management, upkeep, calibration, tlc, etc. Even the ones that are $5k+. However, generally (but not always), the higher you go in price the less hassle it will be because the quality is better.

The most recommended consumer printer that can come as a kit or preassembled is the PRUSA i3 MK3S+ ($1000). It has a large community, customer support, and is the original printer of that style that most of the clones (CR10, etc) are made from. They have a free slicer that rivals CURA (ultimaker printers) and a good knowledge base. It is, however, not enclosed.
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Last edited by Meshca May 25, 2021 at 12:13 AM.
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#74
Quote from MerryStew08 :
New to 3d printing, but not intimidated by it. Is this a good printer to start with? I don't need to start at beginner
Phrozen 4k maybe. If you just want to go all out right away
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#75
Quote from 23EE :
I'm well adjusted to FDM printing, but so far all I see SLA being used for is model making. Is there any other use for SLA than the detail that model making requires? Seems like FDM is better in all aspects than that, especially including the toxic chemicals and cleanup.
FDM is way more fiddly and requires constant calibration of your machine to achieve good results. Any prints with supports require a lot more post processing with FDM than SLA.

Resins are toxic chemicals but not any more toxic than epoxies or solvents like IPA, Acetone, Paint Thinner, or Naptha. If you do any sort of wood working, automotive painting, or painted your fingernails then you've used these types of chemicals and know how to handle them.

Operating an SLA printer isn't like having a bucket of Acetone in a closed room off gassing. You want ventilation but a simple extractor fan or putting it in a garage is more than sufficient. You take the level of care you would if you were printing ABS on an FDM printer.

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