This price is almost the norm so there's no need to rush into this.
I have this micro usb version with my Samsung S9+ and it works fine.
The bad reviews in the app store might be compatibility issue. The same App for multiple versions of the camera make it hard to tell.
The USB C version says: FLIR one Android sub c models are not currently compatible with snapdragon 835/845 based Android sub c handsets
So, I bought this micro usb version to use with my USB C phone. It does work!
I really would have preferred the USB C model to be more future proof though.
I have used this to find leaks in my AC ducts and it worked! It also shows me where I should probably wrap my ducts more because of the cold leaking out.
I have also used it to find my pets in the dark
It also shows me where my carpet might be wet because of my pets -_-
There's a lot of uses and I have only scratched the surface.
The resolution isn't great so don't expect something out of the movies. Imagine colorful blurs. You can take a thermal picture with the app and within the app, Then, you can hide the thermal colors to show the picture under it. Using this method, you can determine where the colors were coming from.
It auto adjusts the range, but you can also set a range. For example, to find the ac leaks, I set it low so that everything in the attic was bright yellow (warm to hot) and the blue shadows (colder) were the leaks. If it were auto, the ducts would be moderately bright and everything else would be darker, the blue shadows would be harder to find.
I think it would make finding a literal needle in a haystack doable! But then, a magnet might work better. You need the right tool for the job!
This is useless without the app, and the app has shitty reviews, therefore this device is functionally shitty. It doesn't really matter if it's physically very good if you can't use it.
This is a true statement, worse then this there is an issue with the battery discharging on these and damaging a cell. Well documented online, denied by flir. I recommend doing a search on the battery issue of this prior to purchase.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Maybe my use case would help...I have 18ft ceiling going from 1st floor to attic and I know 2 coax wires go from attic all the way down. I want to use those wires to back pull speaker and ethernet cable. The issue is when I pull the wire from either end it doesn't want to budge so I am guessing it ain't going straight up and down. If anything will help trace the path then I can basically open very small spots along the way to guide the new wire through. Idea is to pull up one of the coax and pull up the additional speaker, ethernet and new coax
my guess... they're stapled to the stud, mine are, laid in when the building was being built.
when i moved into my new house i pulled CAT6 to every room in the house, centralized in the office on the 2nd floor, via the attic. to get to my living room on the first floor and basement below that i drilled down from the attic through the top of the second floor wall, then cut a hole in the master bedroom and drilled down through the top of the first floor wall, then up from the basement through the bottom of the 1st floor wall. on the first floor i ripped an existing wall box out and replaced it with an old-work box for ease of finding/pulling the wires.
i recently did a similar thing to pull CAT6 down to my laundry room (i have my consoles in there, TV is on the other side of the wall), ended up patching a hole in the ceiling because it was just easier to get where i wanted doing that rather than the wall.
it sucks, but most of the time a hole is the way to go... just cut from stud to stud (center to center works, personally i double the 2x's because i'm neurotic), give your self enough room to work height wise (it's also easier to tape/spackle 1' tall than 3'' ). when you go to patch, make sure you put some support between the sheetrock still on the wall and your piece, don't want a little wall flex cracking your spackle job (i generally just use a few pieces of plywood behind the sheetrock to support)
If you read the comments or do a google search you will find that mostly it's used for construction. I'm also going to use it to find out the hot spots of the computers I build
81 Comments
Your comment cannot be blank.
Featured Comments
I have this micro usb version with my Samsung S9+ and it works fine.
The bad reviews in the app store might be compatibility issue. The same App for multiple versions of the camera make it hard to tell.
The USB C version says: FLIR one Android sub c models are not currently compatible with snapdragon 835/845 based Android sub c handsets
So, I bought this micro usb version to use with my USB C phone. It does work!
I really would have preferred the USB C model to be more future proof though.
I have used this to find leaks in my AC ducts and it worked! It also shows me where I should probably wrap my ducts more because of the cold leaking out.
I have also used it to find my pets in the dark
It also shows me where my carpet might be wet because of my pets -_-
There's a lot of uses and I have only scratched the surface.
The resolution isn't great so don't expect something out of the movies. Imagine colorful blurs. You can take a thermal picture with the app and within the app, Then, you can hide the thermal colors to show the picture under it. Using this method, you can determine where the colors were coming from.
It auto adjusts the range, but you can also set a range. For example, to find the ac leaks, I set it low so that everything in the attic was bright yellow (warm to hot) and the blue shadows (colder) were the leaks. If it were auto, the ducts would be moderately bright and everything else would be darker, the blue shadows would be harder to find.
I think it would make finding a literal needle in a haystack doable! But then, a magnet might work better. You need the right tool for the job!
https://play.google.com/store/app...ir.fliron
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
NVM, thought anything with 'pro' in the name was 160x120. This one is only 80x60 resolution
when i moved into my new house i pulled CAT6 to every room in the house, centralized in the office on the 2nd floor, via the attic. to get to my living room on the first floor and basement below that i drilled down from the attic through the top of the second floor wall, then cut a hole in the master bedroom and drilled down through the top of the first floor wall, then up from the basement through the bottom of the 1st floor wall. on the first floor i ripped an existing wall box out and replaced it with an old-work box for ease of finding/pulling the wires.
i recently did a similar thing to pull CAT6 down to my laundry room (i have my consoles in there, TV is on the other side of the wall), ended up patching a hole in the ceiling because it was just easier to get where i wanted doing that rather than the wall.
it sucks, but most of the time a hole is the way to go... just cut from stud to stud (center to center works, personally i double the 2x's because i'm neurotic), give your self enough room to work height wise (it's also easier to tape/spackle 1' tall than 3'' ). when you go to patch, make sure you put some support between the sheetrock still on the wall and your piece, don't want a little wall flex cracking your spackle job (i generally just use a few pieces of plywood behind the sheetrock to support)
FLIR Systems
Model B400