Item 1 of 4
Item 1 of 4
expirediconian | Staff posted Jul 16, 2021 8:52 PM
Klipsch Bundle: 2x RP-8000F + 2x RP-600M + RP-504C + SPL-100 + Onkyo TX-NR797
$2,199
$4,129
46% off
& More + Free S&Hat Adorama
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& More + Free S&Hat AdoramaDeal Details
Update: This deal is still available.
Adorama.com has select Klipsch Reference Premiere Speaker Bundles on sale for $2,199 each. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for finding this deal.
Adorama.com has select Klipsch Reference Premiere Speaker Bundles on sale for $2,199 each. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for finding this deal.
- Available in Black or Walnut $2,199
- Pair of Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-8000F Floorstanding Speakers
- Pair of Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-600M Bookshelf Speakers
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-504C 2.5-Way Center Channel Speaker
- 10" Klipsch SPL-100 450W Subwoofer
- Onkyo TX-NR797 9.2-Channel Network A/V Receiver
- Bundle #2 Available in Black or Walnut $2,199
- Pair of Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-8000F Floorstanding Speakers
- Pair of Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-600M Bookshelf Speakers
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-504C 2.5-Way Center Channel Speaker
- 10" Klipsch SPL-100 450W Subwoofer
- Pioneer Elite VSX-LX304 9.2-Channel Network AV Receiver
Editor's Notes
Written by SubZero5 | Staff- About this deal:
- This deal is $1,930 off (47% savings) the list price of $4,129.
- About this store:
- Adorama return policy may be found here.
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Update: This deal is still available.
Adorama.com has select Klipsch Reference Premiere Speaker Bundles on sale for $2,199 each. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for finding this deal.
Adorama.com has select Klipsch Reference Premiere Speaker Bundles on sale for $2,199 each. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for finding this deal.
- Available in Black or Walnut $2,199
- Pair of Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-8000F Floorstanding Speakers
- Pair of Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-600M Bookshelf Speakers
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-504C 2.5-Way Center Channel Speaker
- 10" Klipsch SPL-100 450W Subwoofer
- Onkyo TX-NR797 9.2-Channel Network A/V Receiver
- Bundle #2 Available in Black or Walnut $2,199
- Pair of Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-8000F Floorstanding Speakers
- Pair of Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-600M Bookshelf Speakers
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-504C 2.5-Way Center Channel Speaker
- 10" Klipsch SPL-100 450W Subwoofer
- Pioneer Elite VSX-LX304 9.2-Channel Network AV Receiver
Editor's Notes
Written by SubZero5 | Staff- About this deal:
- This deal is $1,930 off (47% savings) the list price of $4,129.
- About this store:
- Adorama return policy may be found here.
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Top Comments
Also I totally agree with the poster above you: value is relative. But to add these also carry higher resale value in the long run as well in case you change your mind; each RP speaker usually goes for 2x their regular Ref counterpart when being sold (can't guarantee that about the sub though).
Anyways, for expansion you have a couple of options. The package above is currently a 5.1 and the receiver is capable of supporting up to:
5.2.4 or 7.2.2
The first number represents channels (I.e. 5 channels are: surround left, left, center, right, and surround right and the 7 channels are: rear left, surround left, left, center, right, surround right, and rear right).
The second number represents subwoofers, up to two in either configuration.
The third number represents height channels aka Atmos channels aka ceiling speakers (or speakers that bounce sound off of your ceiling). 2 channels means you get ceiling speakers that are placed a bit in front and right above you, and 4 channels means you get ceiling speakers in front of you, and behind you.
You should look the configurations up to get a better idea if these numbers and terms seem foreign to you!
But you have a ton of options as you can see and depending on what you want, there's a lot you can factually do (I won't comment on disputed things like highly upgraded cables) to improve these speakers.
For both music and cinema, relative cheap and immediate improvements are:
> Before buying anything, remember to optimize how your speakers are positioned (I'd highly recommend reading the manufacturer's manual) to maximize their efficacy
> Add bass traps (cheap and diy options are much less expensive) in your room. It will even out the bass response. Your room is very important and literally the other half of the equation. You want to minimize bouncing sound waves and reflections and resonation and all that.
> Depending on your floor material you'll see different effect here, but a subwoofer decoupling/isolation platform.
More expensive upgrades:
So first, I'd start with taking advantage of Dolby atmos and buying ceiling speakers. Honestly speaking, while theoretically you should "timbre" match (aka buying similar speakers from the same company so the speakers have the same sound signature and when everything is blending together into surround sound, it's more immersive and cohesive), I find that the most important speakers in order are Left & Right and Center for timbre. The rest while important aren't as noticeable if you get speakers from a different line unless you get something totally different. For surround stuff since it's usually for cinema only, more channels with low-mid cost speakers > less channels with mid-high cost speakers.This preface is because you can either buy some cheap in-ceiling speakers right away, some nicer in-ceiling speakers, or even these little speakers that Klipsch sells that sit on top of your speakers and bounce atmos of the ceiling.
Now whether you want 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 is up to you, but I think you'll see far more success with 5.2.4 especially in the coming future especially as the 2 rear ceiling speakers you get in 5.2.4 can also kinda masquerade as what would have been the rear channels you get in 7.2.2.
While the subs IMO are extremely important, they can get expensive. Height or more surround channels are cheaper to get.
If you want more bass, you have two options. When you get the sub in the package and if you find that the bass response is lacking (not as potent, not as crisp, or not as fast), then consider either swapping the klipsch sub to a more powerful subwoofer (subwoofers don't need to be timbre matched, that is you don't have to only buy klipsch Subs for klipsch speakers) OR if the bass seems inconsistent around the room and loud enough in some areas but weak in other, getting a second identical sub. The advantage of 2 subwoofers is similar to the bass traps, they help even out the bass response in the room. The way sound waves work, you might see large volume differences in low, mid, and highly frequencies in different parts of the room and two subwoofers not only add a bit more rumble and low end but vitally they even out the bass response. A pair of subs cancelling out (in very basic and inaccurate terms) the bad parts in a similar way to pulling both left and right on something makes it go nowhere and in this case you want that zero effect so the bass is even everywhere in the room. Now if you're just looking for better low end for something only like explosions or gunshots, it might be more worthwhile to simply pick up one bigger sub but you're going to have to do the research to see which option is best for your situation. You could just get two bigger badder subs đ. Better subs don't necessarily mean bigger though. Bigger subwoofers (beyond 12") generally move more air but it's a blessing and a curse because if built poorly, they can be sloppy. Anything 15" and above usually is relegated mainly for cinema. Ported designs give you more upfront bass all the way around whereas as sealed subs sacrifice a lot of the kick to keep the lowest frequencies more even. But it ultimately does depend on subwoofer to subwoofer but my point being a well engineered 12" sub can be much better than your cheapest 15" sub so unlike the surround speakers where it's okay to cheap out a bit, this isn't the place.
One final thing you can do that meaningfully impacts everything but can be expensive addition with limited improvement depending on how sensitive you are, is buying separate amplifiers for your front left and right speakers, giving them access to more power in front and letting the receiver divvy up what was initially allocated to the left and right speaker to the other channels. Klipsch is known for doing well with any power source and this is mainly for if you ever change your front speakers. This last recommendation is what I meant in my earlier post by anything more expensive than the RP line starts requiring far more money and complexity (of wiring) for a noticeable effect.
Oh and side note, the source of your content and what format (I.e. streaming vs 4K Blu-ray) plays also matters but I'll leave that to you to research as this affects the video a lot more than the audio IMO for cinema. For music, the debate over music formats (Analog vs digital, and some debate inside digital formats itself) is still raging and you're again starting to enter audiophile territory where every minutia is something that needs to be analyzed and expensively improved to be enjoyedâjust to be clear this is sarcasm but my point is for music what improvement is best and worthwhile becomes highly opinionated.
Okay finally after the great text wall of China, just enjoy your speakers! The RP line is already an amazing upgrade over 98% of the speakers most people listen to and should be fantastic for a long time. I really hope you like them!!
Also, the 504c and 600m reference premieres are on sale if this package doesn't meet your needs.
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136 Comments
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Yeah right, the AMP would have to be as big and heavy as the car itself.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank RampageJ5
what would you say on my next thing to upgrade on this set? Sub?
how about addding ceiling speaker?
Also I totally agree with the poster above you: value is relative. But to add these also carry higher resale value in the long run as well in case you change your mind; each RP speaker usually goes for 2x their regular Ref counterpart when being sold (can't guarantee that about the sub though).
Anyways, for expansion you have a couple of options. The package above is currently a 5.1 and the receiver is capable of supporting up to:
5.2.4 or 7.2.2
The first number represents channels (I.e. 5 channels are: surround left, left, center, right, and surround right and the 7 channels are: rear left, surround left, left, center, right, surround right, and rear right).
The second number represents subwoofers, up to two in either configuration.
The third number represents height channels aka Atmos channels aka ceiling speakers (or speakers that bounce sound off of your ceiling). 2 channels means you get ceiling speakers that are placed a bit in front and right above you, and 4 channels means you get ceiling speakers in front of you, and behind you.
You should look the configurations up to get a better idea if these numbers and terms seem foreign to you!
But you have a ton of options as you can see and depending on what you want, there's a lot you can factually do (I won't comment on disputed things like highly upgraded cables) to improve these speakers.
For both music and cinema, relative cheap and immediate improvements are:
> Before buying anything, remember to optimize how your speakers are positioned (I'd highly recommend reading the manufacturer's manual) to maximize their efficacy
> Add bass traps (cheap and diy options are much less expensive) in your room. It will even out the bass response. Your room is very important and literally the other half of the equation. You want to minimize bouncing sound waves and reflections and resonation and all that.
> Depending on your floor material you'll see different effect here, but a subwoofer decoupling/isolation platform.
More expensive upgrades:
So first, I'd start with taking advantage of Dolby atmos and buying ceiling speakers. Honestly speaking, while theoretically you should "timbre" match (aka buying similar speakers from the same company so the speakers have the same sound signature and when everything is blending together into surround sound, it's more immersive and cohesive), I find that the most important speakers in order are Left & Right and Center for timbre. The rest while important aren't as noticeable if you get speakers from a different line unless you get something totally different. For surround stuff since it's usually for cinema only, more channels with low-mid cost speakers > less channels with mid-high cost speakers.This preface is because you can either buy some cheap in-ceiling speakers right away, some nicer in-ceiling speakers, or even these little speakers that Klipsch sells that sit on top of your speakers and bounce atmos of the ceiling.
Now whether you want 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 is up to you, but I think you'll see far more success with 5.2.4 especially in the coming future especially as the 2 rear ceiling speakers you get in 5.2.4 can also kinda masquerade as what would have been the rear channels you get in 7.2.2.
While the subs IMO are extremely important, they can get expensive. Height or more surround channels are cheaper to get.
If you want more bass, you have two options. When you get the sub in the package and if you find that the bass response is lacking (not as potent, not as crisp, or not as fast), then consider either swapping the klipsch sub to a more powerful subwoofer (subwoofers don't need to be timbre matched, that is you don't have to only buy klipsch Subs for klipsch speakers) OR if the bass seems inconsistent around the room and loud enough in some areas but weak in other, getting a second identical sub. The advantage of 2 subwoofers is similar to the bass traps, they help even out the bass response in the room. The way sound waves work, you might see large volume differences in low, mid, and highly frequencies in different parts of the room and two subwoofers not only add a bit more rumble and low end but vitally they even out the bass response. A pair of subs cancelling out (in very basic and inaccurate terms) the bad parts in a similar way to pulling both left and right on something makes it go nowhere and in this case you want that zero effect so the bass is even everywhere in the room. Now if you're just looking for better low end for something only like explosions or gunshots, it might be more worthwhile to simply pick up one bigger sub but you're going to have to do the research to see which option is best for your situation. You could just get two bigger badder subs đ. Better subs don't necessarily mean bigger though. Bigger subwoofers (beyond 12") generally move more air but it's a blessing and a curse because if built poorly, they can be sloppy. Anything 15" and above usually is relegated mainly for cinema. Ported designs give you more upfront bass all the way around whereas as sealed subs sacrifice a lot of the kick to keep the lowest frequencies more even. But it ultimately does depend on subwoofer to subwoofer but my point being a well engineered 12" sub can be much better than your cheapest 15" sub so unlike the surround speakers where it's okay to cheap out a bit, this isn't the place.
One final thing you can do that meaningfully impacts everything but can be expensive addition with limited improvement depending on how sensitive you are, is buying separate amplifiers for your front left and right speakers, giving them access to more power in front and letting the receiver divvy up what was initially allocated to the left and right speaker to the other channels. Klipsch is known for doing well with any power source and this is mainly for if you ever change your front speakers. This last recommendation is what I meant in my earlier post by anything more expensive than the RP line starts requiring far more money and complexity (of wiring) for a noticeable effect.
Oh and side note, the source of your content and what format (I.e. streaming vs 4K Blu-ray) plays also matters but I'll leave that to you to research as this affects the video a lot more than the audio IMO for cinema. For music, the debate over music formats (Analog vs digital, and some debate inside digital formats itself) is still raging and you're again starting to enter audiophile territory where every minutia is something that needs to be analyzed and expensively improved to be enjoyedâjust to be clear this is sarcasm but my point is for music what improvement is best and worthwhile becomes highly opinionated.
Okay finally after the great text wall of China, just enjoy your speakers! The RP line is already an amazing upgrade over 98% of the speakers most people listen to and should be fantastic for a long time. I really hope you like them!!
I'm trying to decide if this deal with the Sub and AVR is a better buy.
The front of the Onkyo looks nicer to me. The Personal presets sound pretty useless from what I could tell. The manual is so poorly written it is hard to make sense of some of it.
But, both of these appear to be able to pass audi from HDMI sources out to Zone 2 preamp analog outputs, which many receivers today cannot. I need that to feed my two 2 channel amps for my back yard and patio speakers.
Going to try to do more research tonight and decide in the morning! I hope!
This Onkyo has has more than enough juice to blow out your hearing if you do decide to crank it up and with the 2 Klipsch subs will shake a 4,500sqft house. The Onkyo menus have voice treble boost for more dialog clarity and per speaker calibration. The auto calibration is OK but leaves the subs a little low.
Forums show past Onkyos have had issues with HDMI board failures and other issues but after nearly two years with this about two months of the year with >100 degree heat so far no issues. Once a year I blow the dust out with compressed air can.
About the only down side is its HDMI 2.0b ports so if you are a gamer and have an HDMI 2.1 TV with VRR this receiver is virtually useless. I have original firmware and wifi is disabled and ethernet disconnected.
This seems like a decent deal. -$300 for the receiver and if the set appeals to you that's fine.
I'm trying to decide if this deal with the Sub and AVR is a better buy.
But, with your used set, I'd actually use the RP-600Ms in the front, and the RP-5000Fs as rears. While the RP-5000Fs. So essentially your comparison would be the RP-600Ms vs using the RP-8000Fs as fronts. If they were by themselves without a Sub, sure... it's no contest. But with a sub, they would be about even but of course with the edge somewhat still to the relatively full range RP-8000Fs. Why you may ask? So there are essentially 3 classes of frequencies to look at, highs, mids, and bass. The highs are honestly equivalent among all these speakers, as they use a similar (if not exact but I can't guarantee that) tweeter. The towers (RP-8000Fs and RP-5000Fs) both use 2 midrange drivers and the bookshelf uses 1 midrange driver to accomplish both the mid and bass frequencies. If you didn't have a subwoofer, you'd want the larger double 8" mid range driver of the RP-8000Fs over the single 6.5" RP-600M driver. Since the mid range drivers have to pull double duty as both mid range and bass, the RP-8000F would dominate the RP-600M, and even the RP-5000F with it's 5.25" double midrange drivers would probably fare a bit better overall. However, the 6.5" of the RP-600Ms are actually pretty close to the ideal mid-range driver size, as it moves just the right amount of air fast enough to be great at mid range. So when you add a discrete sub to cover the bass frequencies, the RP-600Ms actually shine as no longer does it have to pull double duty as the bass driver and it lets its single ideal mid range driver sing. Now why do the RP-8000Fs still edge it out? Because it's frankly still the better speaker. Since they're naturally capable of producing a lot more bass, you'd be able to let the sub only work on producing the sub-bass making it sound cleaner whereas with the RP-600Ms it'd be best if you crossed it a bit higher (i.e. I personally have my towers crossed at either 40/60 Hz and my bookshelf speakers at 80 Hz).
And as a reminder, either in the OP setup of RP-600Ms or with your bundle's RP-5000F surrounds, it's overkill for surrounds and you'll be more than pleased in my opinion with either.
So that leaves about 1150 (assuming 7% sales tax) for you to grab a Sub and AVR. Since it looks like you're willing to get used audio equipment (which a note of caution both the Sub and the AVR will have amplifiers that might need to be checked depending on age since they will be the most likely source of failure). While everyone is free to choose what they like, anecdotally personally I've really enjoyed the Yamaha TSR (model number varying depending on generation) exclusive to Costco along with the joy of being able to deal with Costco. I picked up the TSR 7850 for $400 and Costco is carrying the next gen HDMI 2.1 variant also for $400. I picked up a lovely used SVS PC Ultra (12") from 2004 for 150 and then replaced the amp with a new 800W RMS one from SVS for another $350 and the amp is now covered for 5 years. I'm extremely happy with my decisions regarding these for a total of $900. If you don't need the channels of a 9.2 receiver, I really would recommend something similar to what I did -> New AVR + Used Sub.
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The front of the Onkyo looks nicer to me. The Personal presets sound pretty useless from what I could tell. The manual is so poorly written it is hard to make sense of some of it.
But, both of these appear to be able to pass audi from HDMI sources out to Zone 2 preamp analog outputs, which many receivers today cannot. I need that to feed my two 2 channel amps for my back yard and patio speakers.
Going to try to do more research tonight and decide in the morning! I hope!
Also I totally agree with the poster above you: value is relative. But to add these also carry higher resale value in the long run as well in case you change your mind; each RP speaker usually goes for 2x their regular Ref counterpart when being sold (can't guarantee that about the sub though).
Anyways, for expansion you have a couple of options. The package above is currently a 5.1 and the receiver is capable of supporting up to:
5.2.4 or 7.2.2
The first number represents channels (I.e. 5 channels are: surround left, left, center, right, and surround right and the 7 channels are: rear left, surround left, left, center, right, surround right, and rear right).
The second number represents subwoofers, up to two in either configuration.
The third number represents height channels aka Atmos channels aka ceiling speakers (or speakers that bounce sound off of your ceiling). 2 channels means you get ceiling speakers that are placed a bit in front and right above you, and 4 channels means you get ceiling speakers in front of you, and behind you.
You should look the configurations up to get a better idea if these numbers and terms seem foreign to you!
But you have a ton of options as you can see and depending on what you want, there's a lot you can factually do (I won't comment on disputed things like highly upgraded cables) to improve these speakers.
For both music and cinema, relative cheap and immediate improvements are:
> Before buying anything, remember to optimize how your speakers are positioned (I'd highly recommend reading the manufacturer's manual) to maximize their efficacy
> Add bass traps (cheap and diy options are much less expensive) in your room. It will even out the bass response. Your room is very important and literally the other half of the equation. You want to minimize bouncing sound waves and reflections and resonation and all that.
> Depending on your floor material you'll see different effect here, but a subwoofer decoupling/isolation platform.
More expensive upgrades:
So first, I'd start with taking advantage of Dolby atmos and buying ceiling speakers. Honestly speaking, while theoretically you should "timbre" match (aka buying similar speakers from the same company so the speakers have the same sound signature and when everything is blending together into surround sound, it's more immersive and cohesive), I find that the most important speakers in order are Left & Right and Center for timbre. The rest while important aren't as noticeable if you get speakers from a different line unless you get something totally different. For surround stuff since it's usually for cinema only, more channels with low-mid cost speakers > less channels with mid-high cost speakers.This preface is because you can either buy some cheap in-ceiling speakers right away, some nicer in-ceiling speakers, or even these little speakers that Klipsch sells that sit on top of your speakers and bounce atmos of the ceiling.
Now whether you want 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 is up to you, but I think you'll see far more success with 5.2.4 especially in the coming future especially as the 2 rear ceiling speakers you get in 5.2.4 can also kinda masquerade as what would have been the rear channels you get in 7.2.2.
While the subs IMO are extremely important, they can get expensive. Height or more surround channels are cheaper to get.
If you want more bass, you have two options. When you get the sub in the package and if you find that the bass response is lacking (not as potent, not as crisp, or not as fast), then consider either swapping the klipsch sub to a more powerful subwoofer (subwoofers don't need to be timbre matched, that is you don't have to only buy klipsch Subs for klipsch speakers) OR if the bass seems inconsistent around the room and loud enough in some areas but weak in other, getting a second identical sub. The advantage of 2 subwoofers is similar to the bass traps, they help even out the bass response in the room. The way sound waves work, you might see large volume differences in low, mid, and highly frequencies in different parts of the room and two subwoofers not only add a bit more rumble and low end but vitally they even out the bass response. A pair of subs cancelling out (in very basic and inaccurate terms) the bad parts in a similar way to pulling both left and right on something makes it go nowhere and in this case you want that zero effect so the bass is even everywhere in the room. Now if you're just looking for better low end for something only like explosions or gunshots, it might be more worthwhile to simply pick up one bigger sub but you're going to have to do the research to see which option is best for your situation. You could just get two bigger badder subs đ. Better subs don't necessarily mean bigger though. Bigger subwoofers (beyond 12") generally move more air but it's a blessing and a curse because if built poorly, they can be sloppy. Anything 15" and above usually is relegated mainly for cinema. Ported designs give you more upfront bass all the way around whereas as sealed subs sacrifice a lot of the kick to keep the lowest frequencies more even. But it ultimately does depend on subwoofer to subwoofer but my point being a well engineered 12" sub can be much better than your cheapest 15" sub so unlike the surround speakers where it's okay to cheap out a bit, this isn't the place.
One final thing you can do that meaningfully impacts everything but can be expensive addition with limited improvement depending on how sensitive you are, is buying separate amplifiers for your front left and right speakers, giving them access to more power in front and letting the receiver divvy up what was initially allocated to the left and right speaker to the other channels. Klipsch is known for doing well with any power source and this is mainly for if you ever change your front speakers. This last recommendation is what I meant in my earlier post by anything more expensive than the RP line starts requiring far more money and complexity (of wiring) for a noticeable effect.
Oh and side note, the source of your content and what format (I.e. streaming vs 4K Blu-ray) plays also matters but I'll leave that to you to research as this affects the video a lot more than the audio IMO for cinema. For music, the debate over music formats (Analog vs digital, and some debate inside digital formats itself) is still raging and you're again starting to enter audiophile territory where every minutia is something that needs to be analyzed and expensively improved to be enjoyedâjust to be clear this is sarcasm but my point is for music what improvement is best and worthwhile becomes highly opinionated.
Okay finally after the great text wall of China, just enjoy your speakers! The RP line is already an amazing upgrade over 98% of the speakers most people listen to and should be fantastic for a long time. I really hope you like them!!
Anyways in regards to your question, technically RP-600Ms won't be "Ideal surrounds". Surrounds ideally are dipole speakers, I.e. they are two speakers built into one chassis. The RP-600Ms are amazing speakers and should have some amazing imaging but with a surround speaker ironically you don't need amazing pinpoint imaging, you want amazing diffusion of sound into the ambiance/surrounding environment. The surround channels are technically almost exactly to your left and right (look up 'Speaker Placement 5.1' to get an idea of what I'm saying) and having a dipole speaker to give it a wider dispersion is better. The closest match would be the current gen RP-502S or the last gen RP-250S, both of which would be excellent and practically identical but since the OP is using all speakers of current gen, you might want to go for the RP-502S as your extra pair of surround channels for to match aesthetically. Though if you find the 250Ss on sale, don't be afraid!!!
Essentially what I'm saying is this: 7.2.2
Fronts: RP-8000Fs
Center: RP-504C
Surrounds: RP-502Ss
Rear: RP-600Ms
For your atmos it frankly depends on how much work you want to do and whether it's a new installation. (PS, Edit: Atmos is a name for a surround sound technology by Dolby that leverages height channels AKA any speaker that is positioned above you to give you a more immersive surround sound. Think Kleenex as being so recognizable, that we call tissues Kleenex. While some speakers may be better designed for this than others, there's no hardware limitation or special certification for an Atmos speaker) Physical location is always better than bouncing but it also takes more work to install ceiling speakers than say the official add-on Atmos speakers (RP-500SAs) that would sit on top of your front speakers. For both the surround dipole speakers (RP-502S)and the atmos add on (RP-500SA), you can honestly save a solid chunk of money and grab the regular Reference line as I doubt anyone is going to go "Man that treble peak on those horn loaded atmos speakers is really messing up this album" since A. They won't be on during music unless you specifically ask the AVR to upscale audio to whole room surround and B. They'll always be on in conjunction to your wonderful Left, Center, and Rights which will do all the heavy lifting.
If you want to go the route of true ceiling speakers, that falls a bit out of my knowledge but I'd recommend swinging whatever Klipsch Speakers you can get in your budget range. An easy way to tell the difference between a cheaper speaker and a nicer one is where the sound feels like it's coming from. If the sound feels like it's coming from inside two speakers, then the speakers aren't great and if you can pick the speakers apart they're not positioned optimally. Good speakers will create a "wall of sound". I can't advise on which ceiling speakers would be the best match, but frankly as long as you don't get the cheapest ceiling speakers at Best Buy, you should be fine.
Anyways in regards to your question, technically RP-600Ms won't be "Ideal surrounds". Surrounds ideally are dipole speakers, I.e. they are two speakers built into one chassis. The RP-600Ms are amazing speakers and should have some amazing imaging but with a surround speaker ironically you don't need amazing pinpoint imaging, you want amazing diffusion of sound into the ambiance/surrounding environment. The surround channels are technically almost exactly to your left and right (look up 'Speaker Placement 5.1' to get an idea of what I'm saying) and having a dipole speaker to give it a wider dispersion is better. The closest match would be the current gen RP-502S or the last gen RP-250S, both of which would be excellent and practically identical but since the OP is using all speakers of current gen, you might want to go for the RP-502S as your extra pair of surround channels for to match aesthetically. Though if you find the 250Ss on sale, don't be afraid!!!
Essentially what I'm saying is this: 7.2.2
Fronts: RP-8000Fs
Center: RP-504C
Surrounds: RP-502Ss
Rear: RP-600Ms
For your atmos it frankly depends on how much work you want to do and whether it's a new installation. (PS, Edit: Atmos is a name for a surround sound technology by Dolby that leverages height channels AKA any speaker that is positioned above you to give you a more immersive surround sound. Think Kleenex as being so recognizable, that we call tissues Kleenex. While some speakers may be better designed for this than others, there's no hardware limitation or special certification for an Atmos speaker) Physical location is always better than bouncing but it also takes more work to install ceiling speakers than say the official add-on Atmos speakers (RP-500SAs) that would sit on top of your front speakers. For both the surround dipole speakers (RP-502S)and the atmos add on (RP-500SA), you can honestly save a solid chunk of money and grab the regular Reference line as I doubt anyone is going to go "Man that treble peak on those horn loaded atmos speakers is really messing up this album" since A. They won't be on during music unless you specifically ask the AVR to upscale audio to whole room surround and B. They'll always be on in conjunction to your wonderful Left, Center, and Rights which will do all the heavy lifting.
If you want to go the route of true ceiling speakers, that falls a bit out of my knowledge but I'd recommend swinging whatever Klipsch Speakers you can get in your budget range. An easy way to tell the difference between a cheaper speaker and a nicer one is where the sound feels like it's coming from. If the sound feels like it's coming from inside two speakers, then the speakers aren't great and if you can pick the speakers apart they're not positioned optimally. Good speakers will create a "wall of sound". I can't advise on which ceiling speakers would be the best match, but frankly as long as you don't get the cheapest ceiling speakers at Best Buy, you should be fine.
https://www.adorama.com/ontxnr797...dl-gbase-p
The speakers aren't THX Certified, nor do they need to be.
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The RP-8000F's were purchased from Green Toe for $420 (tax and shipping included in price), but have not arrived yet. So I can't comment on them yet.
I really had no plan on upgrading my Home Theater speakers until I purchased the two SPL-150 subwoofers and realized that I've been missing out on great sound and needed the speakers to match the power of the subs. I'm coming from a Definitive Technology speaker and Velodyne sub 7.2 setup.
Unfortunately I went with the Walnut color, so the Infinity rs152 really won't match aesthetically like the ebony would. I was thinking of just going with the RP-402S surrounds, being that they are on sale right now, but I'm still holding out hope for the RP-502S surrounds.
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