Drill holes for cords/cables, door knobs/deadbolts...
Drill holes for pipes for bathroom vanity. Diy sou vide cooler. Maybe drill a hole through your phone case to fit your popsocket. Probably need larger size for ceiling recessed lighting.
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You do, none of these are large enough. Usually need either 4 or 6 inches for recessed lights. That being said, I bought this set a couple months ago and love it.
Those sizes don't come with arbors buying individually. The arbors alone are like $15-20 so if you need those sizes it makes sense to get the kit anyways for the arbors + possibly needing the other sizes in the future. That's exactly what I did and they come in handy all the time!
Bi metal really is not durable. Did 5 doors and had to replace with carbide. My past carbide did ~50 doors before it got stolen. Had nearly no wear on teeth. Better off buying carbide as you need it. Totally gimmicky for milwaukee. If you want bimetal get H F or knockoff on amazonk
Bi metal really is not durable. Did 5 doors and had to replace with carbide. My past carbide did ~50 doors before it got stolen. Had nearly no wear on teeth. Better off buying carbide as you need it. Totally gimmicky for milwaukee. If you want bimetal get H F or knockoff on amazonk
I generally agree with you and 100% agree on HF. Best quality? No. Perfect for a homeowner? Almost always.
Bi metal really is not durable. Did 5 doors and had to replace with carbide. My past carbide did ~50 doors before it got stolen. Had nearly no wear on teeth. Better off buying carbide as you need it. Totally gimmicky for milwaukee. If you want bimetal get H F or knockoff on amazonk
I just want to share my experience with this Milwaukee. I bought it last time deal and have been using it to drill 10 doors to install new door locks. The hole saw are still as good as when it's new. They are very good quality.
Initially I used the door hole saw from Harbor Freight but didn't work at all for hardwood door.
FYI, the 1" hole saw from this milwaukee also having a tough time drilling the door socket hole but still much better than the Harbor Freight one. Highly recommend this hole saw set.
Bi metal really is not durable. Did 5 doors and had to replace with carbide. My past carbide did ~50 doors before it got stolen. Had nearly no wear on teeth. Better off buying carbide as you need it. Totally gimmicky for milwaukee. If you want bimetal get H F or knockoff on amazonk
This being said, I currently have the hole saw kit from HF that is on sale for $15.97 right now and it has worked great for wood, sheetrock and other light duty hole cutting.
What's a good kit for drilling 1" holes in exterior stucco walls?
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You don't need a kit, you need one bit that depends on whether traditional stucco that uses cement, or synthetic that is fiberglass and polymer. The OP type hole saw is fine for synthetic.
For just one hole in traditional with wood structure behind, I would try any cheap hole saw bit like the OP, but a lot better to use a carbide masonry bit that is going to be more expensive. I would not use a serious hammer drill mode for fear of cracking adjacent material, so go slow and blow out the hole on a regular basis. Soon enough, you will be through the thin stucco cement part and encounter the chicken wire, then the substrate that is hopefully wood.
If brick or masonry behind the stucco, definitely use a solid masonry bit that is long enough and not a hole saw. Once through the stucco and into brick or masonry, switch over to hammer mode if available, or go slow and clear the hole often to save the bit tip.
PS: Lowes had a clearance on some larger masonry bits that were a deal.
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You don't need a kit, you need one bit that depends on whether traditional stucco that uses cement, or synthetic that is fiberglass and polymer. The OP type hole saw is fine for synthetic.
For just one hole in traditional with wood structure behind, I would try any cheap hole saw bit like the OP, but a lot better to use a carbide masonry bit that is going to be more expensive. I would not use a serious hammer drill mode for fear of cracking adjacent material, so go slow and blow out the hole on a regular basis. Soon enough, you will be through the thin stucco cement part and encounter the chicken wire, then the substrate that is hopefully wood.
If brick or masonry behind the stucco, definitely use a solid masonry bit that is long enough and not a hole saw. Once through the stucco and into brick or masonry, switch over to hammer mode if available, or go slow and clear the hole often to save the bit tip.
PS: Lowes had a clearance on some larger masonry bits that were a deal.
Yea, mostly find the traditional cement kind, often w/ brick/masonry behind it. Been using that Dewalt carbide set from Ace for the smaller stuff, thx
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Those sizes don't come with arbors buying individually. The arbors alone are like $15-20 so if you need those sizes it makes sense to get the kit anyways for the arbors + possibly needing the other sizes in the future. That's exactly what I did and they come in handy all the time!
In this case, HF is coming in higher at $58 and only going up to 2 1/2".(https://www.harborfreig
Carbide will dominate bi-metal. Just depends on purpose.
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Initially I used the door hole saw from Harbor Freight but didn't work at all for hardwood door.
FYI, the 1" hole saw from this milwaukee also having a tough time drilling the door socket hole but still much better than the Harbor Freight one. Highly recommend this hole saw set.
This being said, I currently have the hole saw kit from HF that is on sale for $15.97 right now and it has worked great for wood, sheetrock and other light duty hole cutting.
You don't need a kit, you need one bit that depends on whether traditional stucco that uses cement, or synthetic that is fiberglass and polymer. The OP type hole saw is fine for synthetic.
For just one hole in traditional with wood structure behind, I would try any cheap hole saw bit like the OP, but a lot better to use a carbide masonry bit that is going to be more expensive. I would not use a serious hammer drill mode for fear of cracking adjacent material, so go slow and blow out the hole on a regular basis. Soon enough, you will be through the thin stucco cement part and encounter the chicken wire, then the substrate that is hopefully wood.
If brick or masonry behind the stucco, definitely use a solid masonry bit that is long enough and not a hole saw. Once through the stucco and into brick or masonry, switch over to hammer mode if available, or go slow and clear the hole often to save the bit tip.
PS: Lowes had a clearance on some larger masonry bits that were a deal.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
You don't need a kit, you need one bit that depends on whether traditional stucco that uses cement, or synthetic that is fiberglass and polymer. The OP type hole saw is fine for synthetic.
For just one hole in traditional with wood structure behind, I would try any cheap hole saw bit like the OP, but a lot better to use a carbide masonry bit that is going to be more expensive. I would not use a serious hammer drill mode for fear of cracking adjacent material, so go slow and blow out the hole on a regular basis. Soon enough, you will be through the thin stucco cement part and encounter the chicken wire, then the substrate that is hopefully wood.
If brick or masonry behind the stucco, definitely use a solid masonry bit that is long enough and not a hole saw. Once through the stucco and into brick or masonry, switch over to hammer mode if available, or go slow and clear the hole often to save the bit tip.
PS: Lowes had a clearance on some larger masonry bits that were a deal.