expired Posted by fruman44 • Sep 29, 2021
Sep 29, 2021 5:57 PM
Item 1 of 1
expired Posted by fruman44 • Sep 29, 2021
Sep 29, 2021 5:57 PM
Costco Members: Denon AVR-S760H 7.2-Channel 8K Ultra HD AV Receiver
(In-Warehouse Purchase Only)$440
$440
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If his device had broken 5 months ago and he returned it, that's one thing. But, to go and return it because there's suddenly a different device? "Come on, man." It's literally the reason why they changed the unlimited return policy to 90 days for electronics, because people were grossly taking advantage of it.
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Difference between Audyssey Multeq VS Multeq XT Vs Multeq XT32 [audiosciencereview.com]
Now I am convinced I don't want anything without XT32, and am willing to wait around for a discount on an AVR-X3700H, if ever. I saw this in store yesterday (Irvine, CA), and from the logo on the box, plus what I could find in the manual, it seems like this unit has regular MultEQ. My old receiver has MultEQ XT, so I'd at least like to step up from there.
Edit: Linker seems to keep adding a stray "=" to the end of the URL, breaking the link.
https://slickdeals.net/f/14457986-costco-members-denon-avr-s750h-7-2-channel-4k-av-receiver-on-costco-com-for-319-99-tax-shipped?src=Sit
all receiver should be 330
Sounds like I could take it back but after looking through the manuals I don't see a whole lot of difference between the 750 vs the 760 since I'm not gaming and just use the cable, tv, and dvd connection s
Hooked to a 75" Samsung q80 with w 4 old school Bose 6-2-Stereo Everywhere Speakers for front and back, Polk audio monitor 50 side speakers, Bose VCS-10 Center Channel Speaker, and a 12" downward firing sub.
My 750 replaced a pioneer vsx1122 unit
I'm happy w it although power is a little lacking
Has to jam up to 55+ to get good level of sound
Also I had some b zone speakers that the pioneer would run but unless I tied them onto the front surrounds, no room for them on the 750
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank duc135
Any AVR from a reputably company will be sufficient for the majority of the population regardless of price point or speaker system when properly set up with a sub in real life situations.
For a more detailed explanation see below.
Look at the sensitivity rating of your speakers. It's expressed in dB/W or dB/V. That's how loud the speaker will play at 1W at 1M distance. For example, a speaker with a sensitivity rating of 87dB/W will play at 87dB at 1W at 1M. You lose 6dB for every doubling of distance and it requires a doubling of power to increase the volume by 3dB. So at 7' which is just over 2M you are just shy of 81dB at 1W of power. You need 2W to get to 84dB and 4W to get back to 87dB at 2M.
Dolby reference is 85dB with 105dB peaks from each satellite speaker. That would be 0dbs on a properly calibrated AVR volume display. Taking the above information you will need 256W/CH to achieve Dolby reference volumes to hit the 105dB peaks. Sounds like a lot, but that is in an ideal set up for a proper theater. In reality though, you will never require that much power.
First of all, unless you plan on playing at reference, you will not be needing all that much power in reality. In a well treated room that is properly set up, it will be very loud. Not uncomfortably so, but still loud. Most home theaters will not fit in that category. Remember, 85dB is per speaker. Run 5 speakers at that level and it'll be higher than 85dB. Most setups will fall into the poorly treated room. You will be hearing quite a bit of secondary reflected sounds coming from your speakers. It's this reflected sound coming from your walls, floors and ceilings that give the perception that the volume is uncomfortably loud. So most people in this scenario will not be turning up the volume to reference levels. Just lowering the volume to -3dBs on the AVR display means you've lowered your power requirements from 256W to 128W. Going down to -6dBs means you now only need 64W. -9dBs only requires 32W. Now you should start to understand why most people need a lot less power from an AVR than they think.
Next thing to consider is that bass takes the lion's share of the power requirements. In a properly set up system with a sub, you should set all your speakers to small and crossover to a sub for the lower octaves. So now that 32W required to listen at -9dBs drops significantly. I would say it's safe to say at least 50% of the load is taken away if you cross over at 80Hz. Now we're down to 16W/CH required at -9dBs at 2M. Even then 16W is, IMO a worst case scenario.
I can tell you in my set up, I have 86dB/2.83V 4ohm speakers and I have measured <10W peak at the speaker posts playing at full reference (0dBs) at 9' from the speakers. This is 2CH music and 9CH action movies (both crossed to subs at 80Hz). So in short, most any AVR from a reputably company will be sufficient for the majority of the population in real life usage.
I wanted to get this receiver to future-proof myself in light of the HDMI decoder chip debacle that plagued the TSR-700 (and earlier Denons). So far, all I've got is degraded video from the PS5.
Perhaps the Denon S760H is more stringent with how it processes video. Maybe it's a bit too new and Denon needs to release a firmware update.
Just a word of warning for anyone in the same boat as me. I'm still a fan of this unit, and if you're in the market for either the Denon or the Yamaha, for the extra $40 I'd go Denon despite this issue.
I wanted to get this receiver to future-proof myself in light of the HDMI decoder chip debacle that plagued the TSR-700 (and earlier Denons). So far, all I've got is degraded video from the PS5.
Perhaps the Denon S760H is more stringent with how it processes video. Maybe it's a bit too new and Denon needs to release a firmware update.
Just a word of warning for anyone in the same boat as me. I'm still a fan of this unit, and if you're in the market for either the Denon or the Yamaha, for the extra $40 I'd go Denon despite this issue.
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