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HQST Solar will waive the 10% restocking fee and pay for shipping in the following situations: carrier damage, a defective product, a product does not match advertising, receiving an incorrect product, or a product was an extra item that was not ordered. For any other reasons, customers are responsible for shipping fees.
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If you decide to return your purchase, HQST Solar will allow for a refund for new, undamaged, and unmodified products within 30 days of receiving the order. Returns submitted for a refund may be subject to a 10% restocking fee and shipping costs.
HQST Solar will waive the 10% restocking fee and pay for shipping in the following situations: carrier damage, a defective product, a product does not match advertising, receiving an incorrect product, or a product was an extra item that was not ordered. For any other reasons, customers are responsible for shipping fees.
The lithium technology is now becoming easily accessible to general population. 3000 charge cycle expectancy is difficult believe, offering 10 times longer lasting usability than lead acid or AGM types, or up to 5-6 times more than first generation lithium ion batteries.
This equates to minimum 10+ years life expectancy, yet priced at par with high quality commercial lead-acid batteries.
This is fabulous and unrealistic deal, but I don't believe seller's claim. If they truly believe their hardware to last minimum charge cycle of 3000, they'd be accompanied with stated warranty accordingly, that is minimum 10 years free of replacement guarantee, that is to say, free battery replacement rights to purchasers if storage capacity degraded to industry standard of 60-70% of original specification.
This really may be a quantum leap jump in battery technology everyone wants, or just a hype to find a sucker. I'd tend to believe it be be later case, as I can't find warranty replacement policy that support its claims.
There still is many merchants selling over-stated lithium batteries in eBay. I do not believe they wanted quick income by cheating someone, but they really do NOT understand the underlying battery technology. I hope merchants in this understand the items they sell to public.
LiFePO4 chemistry batteries have high cycle counts in the thousands. 3000 is a reasonable expectation for these batteries. Whether the manufacturer puts in quality cells is something buyer has to research.
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Damn, really? Oof. Good to know. It's likely their BMS.
Why would the BMS know or care? All it sees is incoming voltage. Connect these in series and you would likely have one of the BMS shut down first, reducing total capacity. But I can't see why it wouldn't "work".
These batteries keep getting cheaper every year. 100Ah * 12V = 1.2 kWh. For $365, it's not the best but not the worst either. As an aside, if you're planning on building out a home power plant, make sure you go to at least 48V. So, you'll need 4 of these batteries in a series.
Also, to figure out whether you'll save money by going off grid using a battery solution, take the kWh figure, times it by 0.80 to figure in inverter losses and system losses, multiply it by your AVERAGE cost per kWh from your utility bill, and then multiply it by the amount of estimated cycles from the battery (big assumption here). The AVERAGE cost per kWh should be calculated by taking your monthly bill and dividing it by the total kWh used as determined by the electricity meter reading on the bill. You should do it for a year of readings. So, for me, this is the ROI of the battery:
1.2 kWh * 0.8 * $0.25 / kWh * 3000 = $720. Subtract out the cost of the battery incl taxes, etc..., and the net ROI is more like $320. After you include the costs of the MPPT controller, inverter, and solar panels, the difference gets closer to zero. That explains why NEM is really needed to make solar a cost efficient proposition even in high cost electricity states like CA. Once they phase out NEM 1.0 / 2.0 and implement NEM 3.0, it's likely game over for solar. The ROI will make less and less sense.
I appreciate you sharing ROI for off grid. This is very helpful. I hope you will not mind if I ask the following. 80% inverter and system losses? You have an ROI of $320 in just the first year. Therefore, you will recoup your expenses in how many years? It sound worth while if I am understanding the data correctly.
LiFepo4 battery in general should not be used in freezing conditions. The battery management system should have low temp cutoff to prevent damage. This is not a replacement for lead-acid battery for engine cranking. This is good for providing power for other applications like powering your RV/house where it's in above freezing temps.
This only applies to charging at cold temps - some BMS systems control integrated pack heaters to overcome this limitation
I appreciate you sharing ROI for off grid. This is very helpful. I hope you will not mind if I ask the following. 80% inverter and system losses? You have an ROI of $320 in just the first year. Therefore, you will recoup your expenses in how many years? It sound worth while if I am understanding the data correctly.
It's 20% inverter and system losses. That's why you multiply by 0.8. Anyways, you need to connect this up to a DC to AC inverter to power the stuff in your house, which runs on AC. The batteries and power from solar are DC. The inverter typically has inefficiency losses of about 10 to 20%. Then you have to take into account voltage resistance in all the cabling that results in power loss. Anyways, 0.8 is a good rule of thumb to figure out how much actual power you can pull out of one of these DC systems to AC.
ROI of $320 is for the life of the battery (3000 cycles). It's lowered by the costs of all the equipment that goes along with it like solar panels, etc... You depreciate those costs into the ROI since these things don't last forever. Infact, most MPPT solar charge controllers and inverters will probably just last 10 years before they need replacing, and that will just keep eating into the ROI.
I'd buy if this was amazon.com, test it and either keep or return it. So since it's not I'll pass unless someone has done Max C and capacity tests and even better, like Will Prowse does, tear one down to determine the cell make/model. Stellar price if it's a good build from the cells, bms, wiring, buss bars, and case perspective.
Procure from retailer with solid financing strength is what I'd do, no other alternatives.
How do you plan to verify 3000 charge cycle claims? You can charge and fully discharge batttery everyday, that will be nearly impracticle, but it will take 10 years.
if you're willing to sacrifice 10 years of life for battery technology that you probably don't care, you have earned my admiration. If you have some experience in electronics, educated and understand in the field, then possibly, you can can build yourself a test-fixture consists of huge loadbank and charger with some kind of automomated sequence using some micro-controller based programming, but realistically, it still take 10 years or more to verify true charge cycle capacity.
It's like you wish to find all comination of 6 numbers in correct sequence to say, I know I have the winning number to hit the jackpot, thereby earning several hundred millions of dollars in lottery prize. It's possible, but it is insane.
Many of these claimed charge cycle is a theoritical calculated value based on accerlated life test. That is what we do. This is what manufacturers think, none of it actually based on actual test data.
I doubt if 1% of manufacturer of these battery will survive more than few years, when you wish to file a warranty claim. They spread hypes, cash out, close factory. In fact, I have feeling this is what they do now for Soilid State Battery technology.
Last edited by eiei November 30, 2021 at 03:00 PM.
Need to know the average amp draw from the trolling motor, but based on a goof search 20 amps at medium seems average. For a 100 amp Jr battery you could get about 5 hrs run time at that rate. Other concern would be max amp draw, but the video review posted took the amp draw up to 200Amps and it still ran for 40 mins or so before shutting down due to overheating. Doubt a trolling motor can pull 200 amps so I think you are ok
Thanks Justlooking and Dart. May get buy one for the reduced weight and longevity compared to lead acid.
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My electricity plan charges more between 4 PM and 9 PM. If something like this could be used to power the HVAC during that time and then recharge the rest of the time then that would be fantastic.
You'd have to have 100 of these to run your AC for any significant period of time ...
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I've worked quite a bit with LiFePO4 over the last couple of years building my own 48v home system as well as a smaller 12v subsystem and a few systems for others (after massively researching it and ordering cells from china).
When one contemplates longevity with LFP, the main issue that affects the battery life is HEAT. internal Heat is generated by: pulling too much out too fast, having a high ambient temperature, and mismatched cells. The 2nd issue is cycle depth (full discharge to full charge, 100% cycle depth, reduces the life span of LFP cells).
Those of you planning to use this out in the sun can expect massively degraded battery life.
For those planning to use it indoors in a nice air conditioned environment and keeping it charged in the range of 20% to 80% (not going bellow 25% charge or above 75% charge), well that one will last forever; Projections are in the decades. If you at least keep 10% at the bottom and 10% at the top that you don't touch; this will already do wonders for longevity.
Here's a nice summary from Battery University[batteryuniversity.com]which demonstrates how temperature and shallow cycle depth can massively extend the life of Lithium batteries (the family of which LFP belongs).
Yeah, building your own is much cheaper but there are dangers; it's not for everyone and sometimes you get cells that flake out. You have to worry about expansion (bloating) issues if using some of the cheaper prismatic chinese cells. The price of this item is not bad for an LFP battery that's already in the states, with warranty and a nice case.
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Quote
from MSG123
:
These batteries keep getting cheaper every year. 100Ah * 12V = 1.2 kWh. For $365, it's not the best but not the worst either. As an aside, if you're planning on building out a home power plant, make sure you go to at least 48V. So, you'll need 4 of these batteries in a series.
Also, to figure out whether you'll save money by going off grid using a battery solution, take the kWh figure, times it by 0.80 to figure in inverter losses and system losses, multiply it by your AVERAGE cost per kWh from your utility bill, and then multiply it by the amount of estimated cycles from the battery (big assumption here). The AVERAGE cost per kWh should be calculated by taking your monthly bill and dividing it by the total kWh used as determined by the electricity meter reading on the bill. You should do it for a year of readings. So, for me, this is the ROI of the battery:
1.2 kWh * 0.8 * $0.25 / kWh * 3000 = $720. Subtract out the cost of the battery incl taxes, etc..., and the net ROI is more like $320. After you include the costs of the MPPT controller, inverter, and solar panels, the difference gets closer to zero. That explains why NEM is really needed to make solar a cost efficient proposition even in high cost electricity states like CA. Once they phase out NEM 1.0 / 2.0 and implement NEM 3.0, it's likely game over for solar. The ROI will make less and less sense.
While this is a nice high level breakdown and helpful for most. I would like to clear up one misconception here. Cycle life (3,000 in this case) is NOT the lifetime of the battery. It is how long it will take the battery to wear out to 80% capacity. The battery is still perfectly usable at this point, it would have just degraded 20%.
While this is a nice high level breakdown and helpful for most. I would like to clear up one misconception here. Cycle life (3,000 in this case) is NOT the lifetime of the battery. It is how long it will take the battery to wear out to 80% capacity. The battery is still perfectly usable at this point, it would have just degraded 20%.
The life cycle of a LiFePO battery is dependent upon several factors. The two main ones being maximum charge percentage and maximum discharge percentage. As I recall, I recently watched a Will Prowse video where he had set the maximum charge percentage to 80% and the maximum discharge to 30%. Or, maybe he just hypothetically discussed these settings rather than actually using them. Without re-watching all of his videos from the last two months, I'm going with my memory. As I recall, he claimed something like 10,000 recharge cycles using these 80% / 30% settings.
The reason these numbers stuck with me is that years ago I saw similar videos suggesting these were the charge / recharge numbers you should use for your phone to get the maximum battery life.
Regardless, if I still had my motorhome, I'd be upgrading the house lead acid batteries with LiFePO batteries in a heartbeat. But I would not put one in my RV or car as a starting battery, as the technology currently exists.
Last edited by VegasGuy89183 November 30, 2021 at 05:49 PM.
Anyone know if this could be used with car audio applications? I've seen several cars at bass competitions running several 12v batteries and from what I hear they are over 500.00 each easily.
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This equates to minimum 10+ years life expectancy, yet priced at par with high quality commercial lead-acid batteries.
This is fabulous and unrealistic deal, but I don't believe seller's claim. If they truly believe their hardware to last minimum charge cycle of 3000, they'd be accompanied with stated warranty accordingly, that is minimum 10 years free of replacement guarantee, that is to say, free battery replacement rights to purchasers if storage capacity degraded to industry standard of 60-70% of original specification.
This really may be a quantum leap jump in battery technology everyone wants, or just a hype to find a sucker. I'd tend to believe it be be later case, as I can't find warranty replacement policy that support its claims.
There still is many merchants selling over-stated lithium batteries in eBay. I do not believe they wanted quick income by cheating someone, but they really do NOT understand the underlying battery technology. I hope merchants in this understand the items they sell to public.
123 Comments
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Also, to figure out whether you'll save money by going off grid using a battery solution, take the kWh figure, times it by 0.80 to figure in inverter losses and system losses, multiply it by your AVERAGE cost per kWh from your utility bill, and then multiply it by the amount of estimated cycles from the battery (big assumption here). The AVERAGE cost per kWh should be calculated by taking your monthly bill and dividing it by the total kWh used as determined by the electricity meter reading on the bill. You should do it for a year of readings. So, for me, this is the ROI of the battery:
1.2 kWh * 0.8 * $0.25 / kWh * 3000 = $720. Subtract out the cost of the battery incl taxes, etc..., and the net ROI is more like $320. After you include the costs of the MPPT controller, inverter, and solar panels, the difference gets closer to zero. That explains why NEM is really needed to make solar a cost efficient proposition even in high cost electricity states like CA. Once they phase out NEM 1.0 / 2.0 and implement NEM 3.0, it's likely game over for solar. The ROI will make less and less sense.
ROI of $320 is for the life of the battery (3000 cycles). It's lowered by the costs of all the equipment that goes along with it like solar panels, etc... You depreciate those costs into the ROI since these things don't last forever. Infact, most MPPT solar charge controllers and inverters will probably just last 10 years before they need replacing, and that will just keep eating into the ROI.
How do you plan to verify 3000 charge cycle claims? You can charge and fully discharge batttery everyday, that will be nearly impracticle, but it will take 10 years.
if you're willing to sacrifice 10 years of life for battery technology that you probably don't care, you have earned my admiration. If you have some experience in electronics, educated and understand in the field, then possibly, you can can build yourself a test-fixture consists of huge loadbank and charger with some kind of automomated sequence using some micro-controller based programming, but realistically, it still take 10 years or more to verify true charge cycle capacity.
It's like you wish to find all comination of 6 numbers in correct sequence to say, I know I have the winning number to hit the jackpot, thereby earning several hundred millions of dollars in lottery prize. It's possible, but it is insane.
Many of these claimed charge cycle is a theoritical calculated value based on accerlated life test. That is what we do. This is what manufacturers think, none of it actually based on actual test data.
I doubt if 1% of manufacturer of these battery will survive more than few years, when you wish to file a warranty claim. They spread hypes, cash out, close factory. In fact, I have feeling this is what they do now for Soilid State Battery technology.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Yirmeyahu
When one contemplates longevity with LFP, the main issue that affects the battery life is HEAT. internal Heat is generated by: pulling too much out too fast, having a high ambient temperature, and mismatched cells. The 2nd issue is cycle depth (full discharge to full charge, 100% cycle depth, reduces the life span of LFP cells).
Those of you planning to use this out in the sun can expect massively degraded battery life.
For those planning to use it indoors in a nice air conditioned environment and keeping it charged in the range of 20% to 80% (not going bellow 25% charge or above 75% charge), well that one will last forever; Projections are in the decades. If you at least keep 10% at the bottom and 10% at the top that you don't touch; this will already do wonders for longevity.
Here's a nice summary from Battery University [batteryuniversity.com]which demonstrates how temperature and shallow cycle depth can massively extend the life of Lithium batteries (the family of which LFP belongs).
Yeah, building your own is much cheaper but there are dangers; it's not for everyone and sometimes you get cells that flake out. You have to worry about expansion (bloating) issues if using some of the cheaper prismatic chinese cells. The price of this item is not bad for an LFP battery that's already in the states, with warranty and a nice case.
I will NEVER go back to AGM for solar stuff.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Symber
Also, to figure out whether you'll save money by going off grid using a battery solution, take the kWh figure, times it by 0.80 to figure in inverter losses and system losses, multiply it by your AVERAGE cost per kWh from your utility bill, and then multiply it by the amount of estimated cycles from the battery (big assumption here). The AVERAGE cost per kWh should be calculated by taking your monthly bill and dividing it by the total kWh used as determined by the electricity meter reading on the bill. You should do it for a year of readings. So, for me, this is the ROI of the battery:
1.2 kWh * 0.8 * $0.25 / kWh * 3000 = $720. Subtract out the cost of the battery incl taxes, etc..., and the net ROI is more like $320. After you include the costs of the MPPT controller, inverter, and solar panels, the difference gets closer to zero. That explains why NEM is really needed to make solar a cost efficient proposition even in high cost electricity states like CA. Once they phase out NEM 1.0 / 2.0 and implement NEM 3.0, it's likely game over for solar. The ROI will make less and less sense.
The reason these numbers stuck with me is that years ago I saw similar videos suggesting these were the charge / recharge numbers you should use for your phone to get the maximum battery life.
Regardless, if I still had my motorhome, I'd be upgrading the house lead acid batteries with LiFePO batteries in a heartbeat. But I would not put one in my RV or car as a starting battery, as the technology currently exists.
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