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100' Southwire 12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3-Prong 15-Amp Extension Cord Expired
$49
$99.00
+ Free Shipping
Update: This popular deal is still available.
Walmart has 100' Southwire 12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3-Prong 15-Amp Extension Cord (Yellow, 25890002) on sale for $49. Shipping is free.
Thanks to community member Jammy2501 for finding this deal.
Walmart has 100' Southwire 12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3-Prong 15-Amp Extension Cord (Yellow, 25890002) on sale for $49. Shipping is free.
Thanks to community member Jammy2501 for finding this deal.
Original Post
Written by
Edited September 7, 2022
at 10:41 PM
This extension cord is 42% off at 49.
last lowest I saw recently was 59$
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQF5 OOS, see FP for another option.
Available on Amazon again
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQF5 OOS, see FP for another option.
last lowest I saw recently was 59$
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQF5 OOS, see FP for another option.
Available on Amazon again
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQF5 OOS, see FP for another option.
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Give Feedback Model: Southwire 25890002 2589SW0002 Outdoor Cord-12/3 SJTW Heavy Duty 3 Prong Extension Cord, Water Resistant Vinyl Jacket, for Commercial Use and Major Appliances, Foot, Yellow, 100 Feet, Ft
Deal History
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Current Prices
Sort: Lowest to Highest | Last Updated 6/3/2024, 10:02 AM| Sold By | Sale Price |
|---|---|
 Amazon | $62.94 |
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So more just info for those that don't need this cord, and may (like me) buy it just because it's a good price for right now. If we see supply chain and commodity prices relax in the next year or so, hopefully these can come back down closer to what I paid.
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Just a suggestion regarding your outlet install. Just be sure to install some sort of remote switch or timer. It is always a bit of a pain to have to run up to the attic to turn it off in the middle of the night when the house cools down (I speak from experience).
When the temperature goes up in the attic during the day the thermostat automatically turns the fan on. The fan stays on until later in the day or early evening when the temperature drops then the thermostat automatically shuts the fan off.
You are already trenching it...please do it properly...first hand experience on getting extension cord burned up.
Look around facebook - you will find cheap Romex cable.
You are already trenching it...please do it properly...first hand experience on getting extension cord burned up.
Look around facebook - you will find cheap Romex cable.
I probably won't. But in 3/4in conduit this extention cord would last just as long as romex. Copper doesn't magically change its conductive properties based on the jacket material. If someone was running two space heaters in an uninsulated 10x10 shed at full blast like an idiot there is a remote chance the coating might melt a little. (probably wouldn't even do that)
I don't have the same options locally you do. People are asking full home depot price for spare romex.
But I can do whatever I want. I can line bare wire hanging from a tree. It isn't relevant to you or a subjective one off experience you had.
Do you even know what this farking cable is made of? I'm asking because I don't - I tried. I went to SouthWire's website and looking up the MF part # and the closest I could get to was 2589SW0002 (but not 25890002 as listed on Walmart's site), they don't have any details on the actual conductive material. There is a good chance this is CCA and not pure copper because that is often the case with extension cables and jumper cables. If you don't even know what that acronym means don't try to e clever and save $50 on a 100ft run of wiring - you can get a 100ft run of legit NMB Romex for just under $100. Romex and wiring for electrical in buildings is much more highly regulated precisely so that manufacturers can't fark around with this kind of stuff.
I mean think about this - this is a "12AWG" cord but according to SouthWire's own product sheet it is only rated for 15A. True 12AWG is supposed to be good for 20A. This should already tell you something.
Do you even know what this farking cable is made of? I'm asking because I don't - I tried. I went to SouthWire's website and looking up the MF part # and the closest I could get to was 2589SW0002 (but not 25890002 as listed on Walmart's site), they don't have any details on the actual conductive material. There is a good chance this is CCA and not pure copper because that is often the case with extension cables and jumper cables. If you don't even know what that acronym means don't try to e clever and save $50 on a 100ft run of wiring - you can get a 100ft run of legit NMB Romex for just under $100. Romex and wiring for electrical in buildings is much more highly regulated precisely so that manufacturers can't fark around with this kind of stuff.
I mean think about this - this is a "12AWG" cord but according to SouthWire's own product sheet it is only rated for 15A. True 12AWG is supposed to be good for 20A. This should already tell you something.
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When the temperature goes up in the attic during the day the thermostat automatically turns the fan on. The fan stays on until later in the day or early evening when the temperature drops then the thermostat automatically shuts the fan off.
This sounds sketchy.
There are a lot of 3 wire 220v devices out there that do not require a neutral. I can't think of a single use case to extend one with a 100 foot extension cord even if the wire itself was rated for at least 300v (and stamped as such on the wire itself, most decent extension do use at least 300v rated wire) and you cut off the 115v ends and replaced with the correct proper 220v ends. If it's already 220v, it probably draws a decent amount of current, the length of an extension cord added in would be far from ideal.
pure 240V appliances don't need a neutral - the neutral is only required to gain access to 120V, which would be used for control wiring and such. For example, the heating elements in a range are 240V. Since a N is common in boxes, the manufacturers choose to use 120V for lights - and in smarter appliances, control boards, etc. A N is by no means required for heating elements.
Can you also count the number of strands as that also factors into a conductors resistance, current ratings and voltage drop.
Thanks!
When the temperature goes up in the attic during the day the thermostat automatically turns the fan on. The fan stays on until later in the day or early evening when the temperature drops then the thermostat automatically shuts the fan off.
I had to redo that in my new house - 2 attic fans. One was still on a built-in Tstat that didn't work properly and the other had the tstat removed and was hardwired with the BARE WIRES just twisted together in the air.
First I tried a hardwired solution for the tstat, but the damned thing would heat up with use and give a false temperature reading for its internal TC (and the fans I am using are way under its current rating). I ditched that, then bought one that's a bit smarter, the nonfunctional unit was just a dial and preset on/off about that setpoint. The new one is digital but really intended for stuff like grow lights with plugs. As dumb as it sounds, I had to wire the 2 fans to a plug and also a receptacle for the thermostat to plug into. Works like a champ, and I don't really like the implementation but I don't think there's anything I can do about it.
I know the first type are of overall questionable value and natural convection is more than enough to provide that effort and I did not realize the second type were that popular. Are these second type more common in certain parts of the US vs others? I've lived in 6 different states in different houses on both coasts and corners of the US and in Hawaii and never came across a house with that type of fan. Only one I've seen ever was a relatives house in western PA. The concept makes perfect sense in certain environments.
Do you even know what this farking cable is made of? I'm asking because I don't - I tried. I went to SouthWire's website and looking up the MF part # and the closest I could get to was 2589SW0002 (but not 25890002 as listed on Walmart's site), they don't have any details on the actual conductive material. There is a good chance this is CCA and not pure copper because that is often the case with extension cables and jumper cables. If you don't even know what that acronym means don't try to e clever and save $50 on a 100ft run of wiring - you can get a 100ft run of legit NMB Romex for just under $100. Romex and wiring for electrical in buildings is much more highly regulated precisely so that manufacturers can't fark around with this kind of stuff.
I mean think about this - this is a "12AWG" cord but according to SouthWire's own product sheet it is only rated for 15A. True 12AWG is supposed to be good for 20A. This should already tell you something.
The main reason I'm doing it to spec is I don't plan on living in the house longer than another 5 years.
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