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I'm already in the Milwaukee ecosystem so bought this wrench last month for $149 and thought it was a screaming deal.
My use case is strictly homeowner working on his own cars or light assembly.
Reviews[youtube.com] show it breaking bolts torqued to 600/ft lbs so unless you're a heavy line mechanic or need to work on farm equipment the 3/8 has plenty of power, is lighter and gets into tighter spaces. Lug nuts on passenger cars and trucks should be no challenge.
If you don't get batteries free from work (heh) be sure to get the lighter, more powerful High Output CP3.0[milwaukeetool.com] with 21,700 cells (defined by its 21mm x 70mm size.)
FWIW the M12 stubby goes for around the same, maybe a few bucks less, and is probably a better overall impact wrench than this for most DIY mechanics who only work on their own cars, because it's smaller and lighter, especially with batteries on, and you'll rarely come across a fastener that it can't handle, including lug and axle nuts and nearly all suspension fasteners. But for those times where it can't, and you don't feel like using a breaker bar with cheater pipe, then this would be a great backup wrench.
If you're only looking to do tire rotations, oil changes and the occasional brake pad/rotor replacement, then it doesn't really matter so might as well get this and be covered for basically all situations (on cars, not trucks). But if you're going to be doing a lot of wrenching, repairs, restoration, maintenance, etc., then you'll definitely appreciate and prefer the M12 stubby over this and basically anything. There's literally nothing out there of comparable power that's as small and light.
Depends on which sockets you have more of. But 3/8" will usually be more common and are thinner sockets overall. Torque Test Channel also found that the M18 3/8" mid torque makes more torque than the 1/2" version.
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The new 12V stubbies (M12 and DW) are shocking. Saw them breaking 450 in a comparison? Unreal.
Do you mean the M12 stubby that's around 4-5 years old and the DeWalt that's around a year old? I have the former and it's pretty powerful. I doubt that it can actually break 450 in a real world situation though. It's struggled on a handful of fasteners and no way were they that tight. But for what it's meant to do, it excels and there's always a breaker bar and cheater pipe for the occasional stuck bolt or nut that hardly justify buying a mid or high torque wrench for my needs.
Do you mean the M12 stubby that's around 4-5 years old and the DeWalt that's around a year old? I have the former and it's pretty powerful. I doubt that it can actually break 450 in a real world situation though. It's struggled on a handful of fasteners and no way were they that tight. But for what it's meant to do, it excels and there's always a breaker bar and cheater pipe for the occasional stuck bolt or nut that hardly justify buying a mid or high torque wrench for my needs.
True, and something that was *just* fastened to that is diff than something fastened weeks or months ago (also holy shit, it's really been 4-5 years already!?). But yeah, with that teeny stubby and a breaker bar you can go a *long* way!
True, and something that was *just* fastened to that is diff than something fastened weeks or months ago (also holy shit, it's really been 4-5 years already!?). But yeah, with that teeny stubby and a breaker bar you can go a *long* way!
The fasteners it couldn't loosen were large suspension bolts and nuts on two different 30 year old cars, that probably hadn't been loosened in decades. I could just barely get them off by hand. For that once or twice a year situation I come across, I can handle it not being quite powerful enough. If this were a regular occurrence, I'd certainly get a mid or high torque wrench. Plus there are situations where it doesn't fit despite being relatively small. But for 90% of what I do, it works great.
Bought this because I want to use it this weekend. I will need to wait to the month end from others who sell couple of bucks cheaper. The item has shipped out from Brooklyn, New York a couple of hours after I put in the order. Generally, I have faith with Amazon's return policy. As far as I had a legit reason, I've never had issue returning anything. Granted that the web picture doesn't show all the fine detail, I've used the reason "other" and stated the product didn't meet my expectation.
I would not buy the one listed. Look for a seller where it ships from Amazon.
Normally I don't. But in the past I've get refund fine from third party seller. I received the item today, because i live not far. The item appears to be legit. Or same as those I bought from home depot.
A stupid question -- how can I do the lugnut tightened to the specific 90 ft-lbs? The mode 1 says it can fasten up to 200 ft-lbs. Does that means i could over tighten if my battery is powerful enough? I do have ACDelco ARM602-4 (14.8 to 147.6 ft-lbs). So I would adjust the torque after using this thing?
A stupid question -- how can I do the lugnut tightened to the specific 90 ft-lbs? The mode 1 says it can fasten up to 200 ft-lbs. Does that means i could over tighten if my battery is powerful enough? I do have ACDelco ARM602-4 (14.8 to 147.6 ft-lbs). So I would adjust the torque after using this thing?
That would call for 2 to 3 ugga dugga but definitely no more than 5.
I'm buying with the intention that if it is legitimate it's a great price. If it is not, I will make return. It's a risk free purchase as Amazon has a no questions asked return policy within 30 days of purchase
Wrong. You have to put reason for return. If you return too much, they will ban your account. It is business after all.
Wrong. You have to put reason for return. If you return too much, they will ban your account. It is business after all.
I've returned about 50 items last year, haven't gotten banned. The items that I returned are mostly new and unused. I heard about this and was always worried but I seem immune from it, maybe because I keep at least 60% of the items that I buy.
Only buy Milwaukee from home depot or authorized Milwaukee dealer.. Ebay and amazon Milwaukee are not covered by Milwaukee warranty... As ebay and amazon are not Milwaukee authorized dealers..
You used the wrong tool for the job. I know there are people out there saying that you can use an Impact Driver to do work on vehicles, but it's not what it was designed for.
Someone else posted the torque specs, and that tells you how different the tools are.
This Impact Wrench is what you needed. (actually, probably can make do with the M12 stubby)
I just received my brand new m12 1/2" stubby. Very disappointed. It couldn't remove a single lug bolt that was torqued to 110 ft lb.
I just received my brand new m12 1/2" stubby. Very disappointed. It couldn't remove a single lug bolt that was torqued to 110 ft lb.
There are multiple torque settings. Make sure that you have it on the highest setting.
Also, give it a couple ugga uggas on tighten, then reverse it. Sometimes it takes 5 to 10 seconds for it to start reversing. If it's not moving in 10 seconds, maybe 15 at the longest stop.
I'm thinking you had it on the incorrect setting - or, those lug nuts have been on there for decades, or they were over tightened? If they still don't come loose - and yes, this isn't proper procedure - use a small propane torch to heat the lug nuts. Just till they get a little hot and expand just a hair. The intent is to break the rust seal. Do not discolor the metal or get them even close to that hot. It will weaken the wheel studs.
Also, as soon as it gets warm, put the impact on it. Do each nut one at a time.
If this doesn't work, the options are to take it to a tire shop and have them loosen them, or you get a minimum 1/2 " breaker bar, a steel cheater pipe, a cut piece of 2 by 4, level to the studs to leverage the end of the cheater pipe on., and try and bust them loose.
Then return the impact for a refund because you may have got a dud?
A stupid question -- how can I do the lugnut tightened to the specific 90 ft-lbs? The mode 1 says it can fasten up to 200 ft-lbs. Does that means i could over tighten if my battery is powerful enough? I do have ACDelco ARM602-4 (14.8 to 147.6 ft-lbs). So I would adjust the torque after using this thing?
Yes, the tool is an impact wrench not a torque wrench.
Snug up all the bolts in a criss cross pattern, then tighten with the torque wrench in the same pattern.
There are multiple torque settings. Make sure that you have it on the highest setting.
Also, give it a couple ugga uggas on tighten, then reverse it. Sometimes it takes 5 to 10 seconds for it to start reversing. If it's not moving in 10 seconds, maybe 15 at the longest stop.
I'm thinking you had it on the incorrect setting - or, those lug nuts have been on there for decades, or they were over tightened? If they still don't come loose - and yes, this isn't proper procedure - use a small propane torch to heat the lug nuts. Just till they get a little hot and expand just a hair. The intent is to break the rust seal. Do not discolor the metal or get them even close to that hot. It will weaken the wheel studs.
Also, as soon as it gets warm, put the impact on it. Do each nut one at a time.
If this doesn't work, the options are to take it to a tire shop and have them loosen them, or you get a minimum 1/2 " breaker bar, a steel cheater pipe, a cut piece of 2 by 4, level to the studs to leverage the end of the cheater pipe on., and try and bust them loose.
Then return the impact for a refund because you may have got a dud?
Lug bolts are not seized, nor am I having difficulty removing them with a wrench by hand. What I'm saying is that after re-installing the bolts and torquing them to 110 ft lb this stubby cannot remove them (2555-20).
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My use case is strictly homeowner working on his own cars or light assembly.
Reviews [youtube.com] show it breaking bolts torqued to 600/ft lbs so unless you're a heavy line mechanic or need to work on farm equipment the 3/8 has plenty of power, is lighter and gets into tighter spaces. Lug nuts on passenger cars and trucks should be no challenge.
If you don't get batteries free from work (heh) be sure to get the lighter, more powerful High Output CP3.0 [milwaukeetool.com] with 21,700 cells (defined by its 21mm x 70mm size.)
Here's the slightly overbearing VCG Construction [youtube.com] guy to explain why.
If you're only looking to do tire rotations, oil changes and the occasional brake pad/rotor replacement, then it doesn't really matter so might as well get this and be covered for basically all situations (on cars, not trucks). But if you're going to be doing a lot of wrenching, repairs, restoration, maintenance, etc., then you'll definitely appreciate and prefer the M12 stubby over this and basically anything. There's literally nothing out there of comparable power that's as small and light.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
True, and something that was *just* fastened to that is diff than something fastened weeks or months ago (also holy shit, it's really been 4-5 years already!?). But yeah, with that teeny stubby and a breaker bar you can go a *long* way!
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Wrong. You have to put reason for return. If you return too much, they will ban your account. It is business after all.
Someone else posted the torque specs, and that tells you how different the tools are.
This Impact Wrench is what you needed. (actually, probably can make do with the M12 stubby)
I just received my brand new m12 1/2" stubby. Very disappointed. It couldn't remove a single lug bolt that was torqued to 110 ft lb.
Also, give it a couple ugga uggas on tighten, then reverse it. Sometimes it takes 5 to 10 seconds for it to start reversing. If it's not moving in 10 seconds, maybe 15 at the longest stop.
I'm thinking you had it on the incorrect setting - or, those lug nuts have been on there for decades, or they were over tightened? If they still don't come loose - and yes, this isn't proper procedure - use a small propane torch to heat the lug nuts. Just till they get a little hot and expand just a hair. The intent is to break the rust seal. Do not discolor the metal or get them even close to that hot. It will weaken the wheel studs.
Also, as soon as it gets warm, put the impact on it. Do each nut one at a time.
If this doesn't work, the options are to take it to a tire shop and have them loosen them, or you get a minimum 1/2 " breaker bar, a steel cheater pipe, a cut piece of 2 by 4, level to the studs to leverage the end of the cheater pipe on., and try and bust them loose.
Then return the impact for a refund because you may have got a dud?
Snug up all the bolts in a criss cross pattern, then tighten with the torque wrench in the same pattern.
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Also, give it a couple ugga uggas on tighten, then reverse it. Sometimes it takes 5 to 10 seconds for it to start reversing. If it's not moving in 10 seconds, maybe 15 at the longest stop.
I'm thinking you had it on the incorrect setting - or, those lug nuts have been on there for decades, or they were over tightened? If they still don't come loose - and yes, this isn't proper procedure - use a small propane torch to heat the lug nuts. Just till they get a little hot and expand just a hair. The intent is to break the rust seal. Do not discolor the metal or get them even close to that hot. It will weaken the wheel studs.
Also, as soon as it gets warm, put the impact on it. Do each nut one at a time.
If this doesn't work, the options are to take it to a tire shop and have them loosen them, or you get a minimum 1/2 " breaker bar, a steel cheater pipe, a cut piece of 2 by 4, level to the studs to leverage the end of the cheater pipe on., and try and bust them loose.
Then return the impact for a refund because you may have got a dud?
Lug bolts are not seized, nor am I having difficulty removing them with a wrench by hand. What I'm saying is that after re-installing the bolts and torquing them to 110 ft lb this stubby cannot remove them (2555-20).