Subwoofers are power hogs and the bigger the driver, the more power they need. Most people don't understand that speaker power is logarithmic, which means you need large increases in power for small increases in volume. In this example, 1200W is only slightly louder than 600W, and moderately louder than 300W.
I like Elac but will never buy a powered speaker that relies on an app to change settings. It's one "end of support" announcement away from bricking your speaker's functionality.
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Someone who wants high output at low frequencies with a quick transient response. 600W per 12" driver is not atypical for a sealed subwoofer.
Oversized ported is where it's at though. My 15" titanic in an 8ft^3 box tuned to 14hz only has 370w rms available and it'll move some significant air!
Has anyone actually heard the RS-700? I'm looking to understand how it compares with the SVS SB-3000 for music
We are extremely insensitive at those frequencies, you're not going to hear the difference in distortion, the difference will come down to mainly the impact of the room and placement ontop of slightly different response curves.
Slow bass is usually just too loud bass, or there's a hump that makes 60-80hz part too loud, and the tail not loud enough.
If you drive them to crazy loud levels, you might hear the amp clipping or cone bottoming, but this is not a real use case, since these aren't stage products.
My Monolith M-215s are 2000W (3600W peak) 😆. I wonder how they compare to these 12 inch models for music. I feel like the Monoliths are kind of lackluster in that department. They're more so made for ULF in movies
How exactly do they pull more continuous power than your wall outlet can (safely) provide? And that's assuming 100% efficiency too.
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05-18-2023 at 09:03 PM.
Quote
from agentsteve
:
How exactly do they pull more continuous power than your wall outlet can (safely) provide? And that's assuming 100% efficiency too.
I think the assumption is that it would go on its own 20a circuit which is separate from your other gear. Ultimately, you need to be aware of the electrical draw of ALL of your AV equipment and plan accordingly.
I like Elac but will never buy a powered speaker that relies on an app to change settings. It's one "end of support" announcement away from bricking your speaker's functionality.
Why don't people understand the same about Sonos lmao I don't understand!!!
We are extremely insensitive at those frequencies, you're not going to hear the difference in distortion, the difference will come down to mainly the impact of the room and placement ontop of slightly different response curves.
Slow bass is usually just too loud bass, or there's a hump that makes 60-80hz part too loud, and the tail not loud enough.
If you drive them to crazy loud levels, you might hear the amp clipping or cone bottoming, but this is not a real use case, since these aren't stage products.
Respectfully disagree. A good subwoofer needs to have an accurate transient response in addition to near linear response down to 20 Hz for music. The lowest note on a Double Bass is 42 Hz and there are drums that utilize that frequency range as well. I use Audyssey XT32 for room correction with a single SVS SB-3000. The system sounds great and I was debating whether to get an ELAC RS700 and move the SVS subwoofer to my HT. I suspect that the RS700 is likely pretty good especially at $800, but there is almost no information available on them. ELAC does not disclose the spec limits for the frequency range (though this can be auto corrected for) + the potential headache of returning the subwoofer to Adorama are going to make me pass for now
Why don't people understand the same about Sonos lmao I don't understand!!!
and the SVS subs? I see some value in being able to use software to tune the sound from your chair to suit you/room but +$200 for it!
Like apart from components upgrade is it really worth getting the PB1000 pro over just the PB1000 for example?
and the SVS subs? I see some value in being able to use software to tune the sound from your chair to suit you/room but +$200 for it!
Like apart from components upgrade is it really worth getting the PB1000 pro over just the PB1000 for example?
I just bought 2 SVS PB1000 less than a month ago and paid them with ELAC bookshelf speakers and center. I'm blown away by the SVS subs. Shakes my entire house.
I'd rather buy a speaker with a full range and decent crossover than getting a sub.
Very few "full range" speakers cover the entire audible frequency range. You would need an enclosure the size of a small refrigerator + an amp that can drive the built-in subwoofer. Passive speakers that cover the audible frequency range cost > $100K and weigh more than 500 lbs
Very few "full range" speakers cover the entire audible frequency range. You would need an enclosure the size of a small refrigerator + an amp that can drive the built-in subwoofer. Passive speakers that cover the audible frequency range cost > $100K and weigh more than 500 lbs
Very few "full range" speakers cover the entire audible frequency range. You would need an enclosure the size of a small refrigerator + an amp that can drive the built-in subwoofer. Passive speakers that cover the audible frequency range cost > $100K and weigh more than 500 lbs
That's the dumbest thing I've read here since, well, the last audio thread.
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Oversized ported is where it's at though. My 15" titanic in an 8ft^3 box tuned to 14hz only has 370w rms available and it'll move some significant air!
Slow bass is usually just too loud bass, or there's a hump that makes 60-80hz part too loud, and the tail not loud enough.
If you drive them to crazy loud levels, you might hear the amp clipping or cone bottoming, but this is not a real use case, since these aren't stage products.
How exactly do they pull more continuous power than your wall outlet can (safely) provide? And that's assuming 100% efficiency too.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank rp1000
I think the assumption is that it would go on its own 20a circuit which is separate from your other gear. Ultimately, you need to be aware of the electrical draw of ALL of your AV equipment and plan accordingly.
Why don't people understand the same about Sonos lmao I don't understand!!!
Slow bass is usually just too loud bass, or there's a hump that makes 60-80hz part too loud, and the tail not loud enough.
If you drive them to crazy loud levels, you might hear the amp clipping or cone bottoming, but this is not a real use case, since these aren't stage products.
Respectfully disagree. A good subwoofer needs to have an accurate transient response in addition to near linear response down to 20 Hz for music. The lowest note on a Double Bass is 42 Hz and there are drums that utilize that frequency range as well. I use Audyssey XT32 for room correction with a single SVS SB-3000. The system sounds great and I was debating whether to get an ELAC RS700 and move the SVS subwoofer to my HT. I suspect that the RS700 is likely pretty good especially at $800, but there is almost no information available on them. ELAC does not disclose the spec limits for the frequency range (though this can be auto corrected for) + the potential headache of returning the subwoofer to Adorama are going to make me pass for now
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Like apart from components upgrade is it really worth getting the PB1000 pro over just the PB1000 for example?
Like apart from components upgrade is it really worth getting the PB1000 pro over just the PB1000 for example?
I'm in the market for a sub or two. Are these worth the price or should I wait for something better to go on sale?
I do have a sub, so I have time to wait.
Thanks ahead of time for any feedback!
Very few "full range" speakers cover the entire audible frequency range. You would need an enclosure the size of a small refrigerator + an amp that can drive the built-in subwoofer. Passive speakers that cover the audible frequency range cost > $100K and weigh more than 500 lbs
If you are going to accuse someone of exaggerating, you should link an example to prove it.
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