Home Depot has
Ryobi Stationary Miter Saw Stand w/ Tool-Less Height Adjustment (RMS10G) on sale for
$59 valid at
select locations only.
Shipping is free, otherwise select free curbside pickup where stock permits.
- Note: Pricing and Availability will may vary by location.
Thanks to Community Member
nismos14 for sharing this deal.
About this Item:
- Accommodates most miter saws
- Adjustable arms extend for added convenience
- Tool-less height adjustment of material supports
- Quick-release mounting brackets help you easily mount and remove your miter saw from the stand
- Material stops enable repetitive cutting
- 300 lbs. weight capacity
- 3-year manufacturer's warranty
- Includes: (1) RMS10G Universal Miter Saw QuickSTAND, mounting hardware, (2) saw brackets, (2) material supports, (2) material stops, stand, and operator's manual
Top Comments
Not to talk anyone out of it because I'm really happy with the Ryobi stand - it's extremely versatile and well-built - fantastic value for the money. But if you've never owned a miter saw stand before, unless you're sure it's going to live only in the shop, a wheeled stand is really worth it. This is a very doable DIY project, but think long and hard about passing up an equal quality wheeled alternative, even if it's twice this sale price.
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67 Comments
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Or can someone recommend something for my table saw. I'm afraid to touch the thing.
Bought the latter for $179 back in January.
Bought the latter for $179 back in January.
- make sure you cut the rod long enough to provide clearance for the wheels to rotate freely (account for space required for 2 nuts and a washer on either side of each wheel)
- make sure the ends of the U-bolts don't interfere with the folding legs (this one's less visually obvious - mark the holes with the legs in the fully folded and locked position)
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Bought the latter for $179 back in January.
Frankly, it depends on the saw. For a 10" sliding, carrying it separate from the mitre stand isnt too hard esp for occasional use. For a 12" saw, its a pain. I ended up getting a dewalt stand for my 12" saw and use the Ryobi for my 10" Ryobi One+ mitre saw. I only use my 12" saw for precision work and the 10" slider for everything else. (I also have a Ryobi 7 1/4" one+ slider and its a toy. only good for rough cuts since it cant be aligned properly
Frankly, it depends on the saw. For a 10" sliding, carrying it separate from the mitre stand isnt too hard esp for occasional use. For a 12" saw, its a pain. I ended up getting a dewalt stand for my 12" saw and use the Ryobi for my 10" Ryobi One+ mitre saw. I only use my 12" saw for precision work and the 10" slider for everything else. (I also have a Ryobi 7 1/4" one+ slider and its a toy. only good for rough cuts since it cant be aligned properly
- make sure you cut the rod long enough to provide clearance for the wheels to rotate freely (account for space required for 2 nuts and a washer on either side of each wheel)
- make sure the ends of the U-bolts don't interfere with the folding legs (this one's less visually obvious - mark the holes with the legs in the fully folded and locked position)
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Click on OP's thumbnail in the first post. See how each pair of legs angle in towards a dark grey angled bracket on each side of the stand? Picture the threaded rod (the axle) held against the outside of one of those two leg brackets (either one; it doesn't matter which), parallel to the ground, perpendicular to the twin tubular rails the miter saw mounts on. What's holding it against the leg brackets? Those two u-bolts I talked about. Each u-bolt has two threaded ends, so 2 threaded ends x 2 u-bolts = 4 holes you need to drill into that leg bracket.
The tip I gave about taking care that the threaded ends of the u-bolts don't interfere with the legs when folded? That's why you need to be careful where you drill those holes. The vertical distance between them is dictated by the width of the u-bolts. As far as the horizonal spacing goes: as far apart as you can get (for maximum stability of the wheel assembly) without the ends of the u-bolts preventing the legs from fully closing. All of this will be MUCH clearer when you have the actual saw stand in front of you.
Once you've got that done, you now have a threaded rod firmly attached horizontally to one of those leg brackets. The diameter of the rod is dependent on what the lawnmower wheels require. I want to say 1/2", but don't hold me to that. Buy the wheels first and measure.
The threaded rod came in a fixed length, I want to say 24". I temporarily mounted the whole rod to the brackets and then added the wheels. On each side you start with two nuts (you're going to tighten them against each other to lock them into position), followed by a large fender washer, then the wheel, another washer and two more nuts to lock the wheel into position. Repeat on the other side. Obviously, you want to leave a tiny amount of play so the wheels can turn freely, and you want those inner pairs of nuts positioned so the wheels aren't rubbing up against any part of the saw stand.
Once that's done, measure how much of the threaded rod you're actually using. Then disassemble the whole thing and cut the rod to its proper length. Reassemble and say a quiet thanks to SD'er room112 for figuring all this out, and you're now rocking a mobile Ryobi miter saw stand.
It worked perfectly for me. I was very pleased with the quality of the Ryobi saw stand, but it's so sturdily built, I immediately recognized the desirability of adding the wheels. As I said in an earlier Ryobi saw stand deal thread: if you trust yourself enough to work around a high speed carbide miter saw blade, adding wheels to the stand is a very doable project.
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