Our research indicates that this deal is $200 less (22% savings) than the next best available price from a reputable merchant with prices starting from $899 at the time of this posting.
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Our research indicates that this deal is $200 less (22% savings) than the next best available price from a reputable merchant with prices starting from $899 at the time of this posting.
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
On Wednesday I received my RP-1400SW that I ordered last Saturday from this deal. Box was looking good, looked well treated in shipment.
Then today my RP-8000F pair from the other deal arrived. Was getting excited connecting everything up and getting it settled in the right place. First test run and the light on the front of the unit powered up but zero sound from it. I spent an hour going over the connections. When trying the LFE from my receiver I would only get the sides making audio. Same with the test tones. Then I took the known good rca cable from the mixer/controller and put them directly in to the sub and nothing. Out of ideas I then tried to call Klipsch but closed for the holidays.
So I opened a ticket on their support site, sad that I was probably looking at an RMA and a lot of hassle. I opened the ticket and after I did so it directed me to some FAQ articles on a variety of things. One of them was how to troubleshoot the amp. https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en...-Subwoofer
I did the buzz test in the article and didn't get anything from the sub. I didn't think I really wanted to open it up since it was brand new, but I figured that the next section that explained the way to check for a loose wire pretty much gave me permission to open it up. (Be careful to unplug the LED connector before you pull it too far away, you only have a few inches slack).
Fun surprise,... the positive cable was broken off from the terminal as shown in the pic (the terminal is in front of the right big black capacitor and the red wire is in the background). One trip down the road to get a crimp tool from the hardware store later and it is good as new, but a bit frustrated. Just wanted to share unless someone else got one like it.
This thing really shakes the house in the best possible way, so far it's really great.
Your current sub only goes down to 28hz at -3dB. The RP-1400SW goes down to 16hz at -3dB. You are paying the extra money to hit down into subsonic frequencies.
Your current sub only goes down to 28hz at -3dB. The RP-1400SW goes down to 16hz at -3dB. You are paying the extra money to hit down into subsonic frequencies.
What did you meant at -3DB? My receiver volume goes down negative from -32 all the way to zero as I increase the volume. Does your -3DB measure relate to that?
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Quote
from boosterjm
:
What did you meant at -3DB? My receiver volume goes down negative from -32 all the way to zero as I increase the volume. Does your -3DB measure relate to that?
It is in reference to frequency response. The -3db point is the point in frequency response where the output starts to roll off. Example, the rp1400 will have a flat response of output down to 16hz where the r121 will play flat only to 28hz.
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Quote
from boosterjm
:
What did you meant at -3DB? My receiver volume goes down negative from -32 all the way to zero as I increase the volume. Does your -3DB measure relate to that?
When someone references -3db, it is basically just the point where the low frequencies start to roll off.
Human hearing range is 20hz to 20000Hz. Anything below 20 hz is felt rather than heard.
What did you meant at -3DB? My receiver volume goes down negative from -32 all the way to zero as I increase the volume. Does your -3DB measure relate to that?
DB is for Decibels, loosely relates to volume, basically the lower the value, the quieter it is.
He was comparing the subwoofers frequencies. Not related to your receiver. The subwoofer from this post hits 16 hz (the frequency) at -3 db. Your subwoofer does 28 hz at - 3db. which in very basic terms means your subwoofer cant produce the lower frequencies at any reasonable volume that this one can.
Our over decade old polk505 finally died and was about to grab the 1200sw when I saw the price went back to 650. For 50 more, I think this is a much better deal, thanks op
What did you meant at -3DB? My receiver volume goes down negative from -32 all the way to zero as I increase the volume. Does your -3DB measure relate to that?
To add the next level of specificity:
-3dB means 1/2 the volume of 'normal' so yes, starting to drop off. Next point is usually -6dB, so 1/2 volume (again). 'Tis a log scale.
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Then today my RP-8000F pair from the other deal arrived. Was getting excited connecting everything up and getting it settled in the right place. First test run and the light on the front of the unit powered up but zero sound from it. I spent an hour going over the connections. When trying the LFE from my receiver I would only get the sides making audio. Same with the test tones. Then I took the known good rca cable from the mixer/controller and put them directly in to the sub and nothing. Out of ideas I then tried to call Klipsch but closed for the holidays.
So I opened a ticket on their support site, sad that I was probably looking at an RMA and a lot of hassle. I opened the ticket and after I did so it directed me to some FAQ articles on a variety of things. One of them was how to troubleshoot the amp. https://support.klipsch
I did the buzz test in the article and didn't get anything from the sub. I didn't think I really wanted to open it up since it was brand new, but I figured that the next section that explained the way to check for a loose wire pretty much gave me permission to open it up. (Be careful to unplug the LED connector before you pull it too far away, you only have a few inches slack).
Fun surprise,... the positive cable was broken off from the terminal as shown in the pic (the terminal is in front of the right big black capacitor and the red wire is in the background). One trip down the road to get a crimp tool from the hardware store later and it is good as new, but a bit frustrated. Just wanted to share unless someone else got one like it.
This thing really shakes the house in the best possible way, so far it's really great.
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https://www.bestbuy.com/site/klip...Id=65014
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank ReyU
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank LovelySparrow901
Human hearing range is 20hz to 20000Hz. Anything below 20 hz is felt rather than heard.
He was comparing the subwoofers frequencies. Not related to your receiver. The subwoofer from this post hits 16 hz (the frequency) at -3 db. Your subwoofer does 28 hz at - 3db. which in very basic terms means your subwoofer cant produce the lower frequencies at any reasonable volume that this one can.
-3dB means 1/2 the volume of 'normal' so yes, starting to drop off. Next point is usually -6dB, so 1/2 volume (again). 'Tis a log scale.
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83lbs
21" x 20" x 26"
500 watt rms class D amplifier
5 year warranty
Not sure why they didn't use a standard 15" driver. When this goes out of warranty, and if the driver fails, a 14" will be very hard to source.
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